Sline front bumper middle splitter blade replacement

[streetfighter-r]

Hi,
My b8 won't be ready until dec so can't check but can anyone confirm removal of the middle splitter blade on the bumper? I'm looking to replace this with a carbon one but want to ensure it's a simple bolt off without full bumper removal.

Better still, anyone installed the OSIR replacement with pics

Thanks

[mkc]

Ive just taken some snaps for you whilst my breakfast gets cooked! Sorry about the quality but as you might be able to see it is held on my three bolts and looks like it will just drop off, no need for a bumper replacement. Looking at the way the bumper meets the splitter I would suggest you would need to undo the bolts so the back of it drops down and then slide towards the back of the car and out. When you get yours, watch out for low curbs mine is scratched underneath! Wouldn't want you breaking your carbon one as soon as you get it

[ScottyUK]

For the position etc surely this is a more cost effective solution

http://www.carbon-vinyl.com/

[streetfighter-r]

Thanks sounds simple! Loving the blue - Aruba? Mmm...easily scratched? Let's see how many days before £270 goes down the drain; or road debris!

Ive just taken some snaps for you whilst my breakfast gets cooked! Sorry about the quality but as you might be able to see it is held on my three bolts and looks like it will just drop off, no need for a bumper replacement. Looking at the way the bumper meets the splitter I would suggest you would need to undo the bolts so the back of it drops down and then slide towards the back of the car and out. When you get yours, watch out for low curbs mine is scratched underneath! Wouldn't want you breaking your carbon one as soon as you get it

[21stCentury]

it is held on my three bolts and looks like it will just drop off

I'm not sure it's so simple. Recently, whilst parking, I nudged a small post in the ground which resulted in a crack through the upper edge of the splitter blade. I looked underneath and saw the three plastic retaining plugs and assumed replacement would be easy. I obtained a replacement from my dealer and attempted to fit it myself.

After removing the three retaining plugs I gave a gentle pull and nothing. After a firmer tug and no movement I examined the new replacement for signs of further fixings and there are four pairs of lugs and holes along the inside of the leading edge of the blade and two rearward facing hooks at each outer edge implying the blade should slide off forwards.

After pulling forward as hard as I dare there was still no movement. So far I have been unable to determine whether there are any retaining screws/plugs fitted to the four holes next to each of the lugs because there seems to be no way to access them when the blade if fitted. I suspect there are some screws/plugs there because there would be no need for the lugs if the holes were purely for location purposes.

I'm going to have another go this weekend when I can jack up the front of the car sufficiently to look in from behind the bumper.

[streetfighter-r]

keep us posted!!!

I'm not sure it's so simple. Recently, whilst parking, I nudged a small post in the ground which resulted in a crack through the upper edge of the splitter blade. I looked underneath and saw the three plastic retaining plugs and assumed replacement would be easy. I obtained a replacement from my dealer and attempted to fit it myself.

After removing the three retaining plugs I gave a gentle pull and nothing. After a firmer tug and no movement I examined the new replacement for signs of further fixings and there are four pairs of lugs and holes along the inside of the leading edge of the blade and two rearward facing hooks at each outer edge implying the blade should slide off forwards.

After pulling forward as hard as I dare there was still no movement. So far I have been unable to determine whether there are any retaining screws/plugs fitted to the four holes next to each of the lugs because there seems to be no way to access them when the blade if fitted. I suspect there are some screws/plugs there because there would be no need for the lugs if the holes were purely for location purposes.

I'm going to have another go this weekend when I can jack up the front of the car sufficiently to look in from behind the bumper.

[21stCentury]

keep us posted!!!

Will do!!!

[21stCentury]

_

[21stCentury]

keep us posted!!!

Update...
Just as I thought, there are four screws along the inside of the leading edge of the blade. On closer examination I didn't need to jack up the front of the car to do this job. The four screw heads can be seen with the help of a small mirror without removing any other parts but it is not possible to access them with a Torx driver due to the ribbed shroud which sits inside the lower part of the lower air intake.

This ribbed shroud is actually integral with the front section of the engine bay under-tray and must be withdrawn before the screws can be removed. I wasn't able to remove this shroud completely but was able to slide it back enough to remove th blade.

1. Remove one row of four screws and one row of three screws which attach the shroud the the engine bay under-tray and the front bumper respectively.

2. At this point the shroud will slide back by about 10mm before meeting an obstruction at each side.

3. Remove both fog lamp housings; this is done by grasping the ribs (towards the inner of the car) and giving a sharp tug to release the clips and then rotating to release the hooks at the outer edges.

4. Looking inside the the bumper there is a cylindrical body and a web on the shroud which meet when the shroud moves back which prevent further withdrawal. By simultaneously lifting the cylindrical body and pressing down on the shroud the shroud can pushed back a little further. Once the obstruction has been released on both sides the shroud can then be withdrawn by a further 100mm or so.

5. Using a Torx driver with an universal joint a ratchet can be used to remove the four screws.

6. Remove the three retaining plugs (pictured earlier in this post) and the blade is easily removed.

7. On re-assembly there are two hooks and four tabs which locate the bade. Note that when fitting/tightening the four screws at the leading edge of the blade it is very easy to allow the blade to momentarily move forward and not to notice that the locating tabs have dropped out of their location.
Hope this helps.

[mkc]

Blimey, I think I would stick with the Carbon effect sticker if I was the OP! You could write a Haynes Manual with that description!