Reconditioning a turbocharger

[roypaci]

Hello there,


Looks like my garrett turbo on my VW Bora 1.9 pd tdi 130 hp is sticking...
Can anyone tell me does it worth to give a try to reconditioning with a specialist?





Thank you in advance

[Teflon]

What do you mean by "sticking"? Is it the VNT mechanism, causing it to drop into limp mode?

If so, and you are reasonably handy and methodical you can have a go yourself. Instructions and info here http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=140910

If not, just Google "turbocharger replacement" and similar terms and you will find half a dozen companies who can crack it open or just do a recon swap. Phone around and shop around because the prices vary enormously. Your model number is etched on a flat area on the side of the turbo.

Good luck.

[roypaci]

What do you mean by "sticking"? Is it the VNT mechanism, causing it to drop into limp mode?

If so, and you are reasonably handy and methodical you can have a go yourself. Instructions and info here http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=140910

If not, just Google "turbocharger replacement" and similar terms and you will find half a dozen companies who can crack it open or just do a recon swap. Phone around and shop around because the prices vary enormously. Your model number is etched on a flat area on the side of the turbo.

Good luck.

Thanks for the respond.
Yes,a vag specialist said it is the vnt mechanism which is sticking.
He said it`s probably worn,that is why sticking.
Do you think worth to recon it?Or shall I buy a new one?

[snu]

You could also google innotec turbo clean, I've just done this on my PD150 and it worked a treat, well worth the £46 direct from the supplier

[Teflon]

I'd be very surprised if it were caused by wear. Almost certainly it is soot and hard carbon in the hot side of the turbo jamming up the actuator ring and the vane levers. You get very little wear on these shafts.

I don't want to bad mouth the chemical option because it worked for snu and must be quicker than whipping a turbo off and cleaning it out.

But, believe me, there is no chemical on earth that could have removed what was inside the turbo of my Audi. It needed an hour on the bench with a wire brush, fine emery paper and a fine brass chisel.

Also, the problem is on the exhaust side of your engine. I can't imagine how any chemical can make it past the combustion chamber and still be man enough to dissolve away the gunk. Anything that could must surely be so evil that it risks damage to pistons, valves, throttle body, etc. etc.? The carbon collects in an area of the turbo with moving parts where nothing is supposed to get, so it is only a bit of exhaust gas blow past the working tolerances of the individual parts that deposits the hard stuff. No chemical is going to get here, do the job and get out again.

[snu]

Innotec is a carbon cleaner that is sprayed directly into the exhaust side of the turbo (drop the exhaust off and use a template previded) this is left fo 45 minutes and then you use a cleaner to wash it out, also there is a fuel addative you put straight into the fuel filter to clean injectors.

this is easier than stripping the turbo esspecially if you are not so handy with a spanner.

Edit

Also, when the turbo has freed up make sure you give it a good hard drive, driving it hard will make the turbo work hard and will keep it freed up, the usual reason for a carboned turbo is low revs and easy driving

[roypaci]

Innotec is a carbon cleaner that is sprayed directly into the exhaust side of the turbo (drop the exhaust off and use a template previded) this is left fo 45 minutes and then you use a cleaner to wash it out, also there is a fuel addative you put straight into the fuel filter to clean injectors.

this is easier than stripping the turbo esspecially if you are not so handy with a spanner.

Edit

Also, when the turbo has freed up make sure you give it a good hard drive, driving it hard will make the turbo work hard and will keep it freed up, the usual reason for a carboned turbo is low revs and easy driving

Has been cleaned,but no luck....No limp mode so far,but still weaker performance

[snu]

Have you tried a new mass air flow sensor, it could also be the injector wiring loom, they do fail on the pd engines, I had to do one on mine, not hard but fidley.

[roypaci]

Have you tried a new mass air flow sensor, it could also be the injector wiring loom, they do fail on the pd engines, I had to do one on mine, not hard but fidley.

MAF changed yes!
But what is that injector wiring loom?I don`t know that....
What do you think about MAP sensor?Or EGR valve?

[snu]

You need to get it scanned for fault code before you go any further, clear any codes first and then take it for a run and re scan, this gets rid of any old codes that may no longer be a problem.
It really could be a number of things from injector wiring loom to blocked cat to a N75 valve or even the map sensor, I've even heard that the earth conections under the battery tray can cause a problem.
To check the turbo, jack the drivers side up and get an axel stand, take the small vaccuum pipe off the turbo and get a small peice about 2 feet long and put back on, suck on the pipe and feel if the arm on the turbo moves freely, should be about 20mm, keep your tounge over the end of the pipe to seal it and see if it holds vacuum, release the vacuum and the arm should move freely back, if this happends then I'd say your turbo is ok.
Also check for boost loss, get someone to press the throttle to about 2500/3000 rpm and listen for boost leaks on the intercooler pipes also check for tight fitting.