error 0050 start of injection timing

hi all and merry xmas.
this is my first post so sorry its a cry for help
right ill tell the tale, bought a non runnerr 1.9 tdi 110 afn sharan, after completly renewing every belt, valves, oil etc the car started up and ran. now it gets intresting as it sounds like the pump is advanced, i followed autodata timing to the letter but it has that metallic ring diesel knock to it and im not using it till ive got it 100% using vag-com it comes back with
error 0050 start of injection timing.
not sure what this is but im sure its timing, how do i fix the fault as if u erease it it comes back instantly.
read on here somewher that you can change the timing using vag-com is this true and how is it done please.
many thanks

Hello and welcome to the forum. You mean, 00550 Injection commencement regulation. There are a number of possible reasons for this;1) Commencement of injection valve (N108) defective, this is indide the distributor pump.2) Needle lift sender (G80) defective, number 3 injectior.3) Fuel tank empty.4) Fuel supply not OK., fuel shortage.5) Air in fuel system.6) Start of delivery not OK, COI setting.The first thing to do is to set the Commencement Of Injection (COI) timing. To do this you need to get the engine temperature above 85°c, select engine 01, basic settings 04, display group 000 and TDI timing graph. This is shown more clearly here, http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-scope/TDIGraph.html .

brill,
many thanks im off out to test it now and see what happens.
will post my findings

done as you said and it says too far advanced to read so now i know why it sounds rough ill get spanners onto the pump fri see if i can adjust it

It is done by releasing the three bolts on the outer pump pulley and very gently moving the inner pulley a tiny amount and then tightening them up and trying it. The bolts have to be replaced when you are finished depending on the type used. What year is it?

hi
its a 1999 vw sharan 19tdi 110hp afn code

As your were, it is a single piece sprocket on that one, you move the pump with the engine running which is so much easier. This is how it was done on the Golf 3 TDI and then they decided to bring in the silly two piece sprocket on the Golf 4 so setting the COI takes ten times longer. When you have finished you need to slacken off and then re-tighten the fuel pipes on the back of the pump to relieve them of any strain and you may need to slacken them off to move the pump far enough depending on what has been done previously.

hi
thanks for that info, i was thinking of doing it that way and you';ve confirmed mt thinking. tossing down of rain at moment so its a sat morn job

well i got stuck into it today after an hour to warm up to 80 deg it was reading 112 btdc and off the graph too far advanced so i done the pump but max i can get it down to is 8.2btdc, vag com says it should be approx 1.3 btdc actual 82btdc. noticed having retarted pump it seems to wind longer too start, the maf readings are 280 actual 480 so is the maf u/s as well.
spoke to the guy who timed engine up and he says to leave it where it was but it dements me the diesel knock and not too fussed about driving down m/ways at 70mph with current timing
so guys what do you think as its all new to me working on these engines

Those figures don’t make sense. You weren’t using the VAG-COM TDI graph function were you? Using display group 000, what were the figures in display zones 2 and 9 which are A and B respectively on the graph. It really needs to be 85°c. I think the basic valve timing is out.

hi
was using the vag-com as you said but once the engine got to temp on the bottom of graph it said timing too far advanced to display results, does that make sense

Yes it does, but would it allow you to bring it into spec on the slots in the pump? If that is the case, I would say the pump is a tooth out on the belt and that is why you can't pull it in or the new belt was fitted without releasing and repositioning the cam pulley, a common mistake. I think the first thing to do is get it to someone else (not the other person) who has the locking tools, to recheck the valve timing. There is a tool from VW and Klann that allows the cam to be locked without removing the cam cover, a big time saver. The pump is locked with a pin and the crank set on the flywheel marker line. If the cam lock plate goes in with the crank on “0” and the pump pin won't go in, will need to be reset. This is done by holding the cam pulley with a special counter hold tool (VW3036 if I remember the number) tool that allows the bolt to be released and then the pulley is free to rotate. Under no circumstances should the pulley bolt be loosened using the locking tool as a counter hold, this will snap the back off the cam. The engine can then be tweaked to set the crank at zero with the cam locked and the pump sprocket locked with the pin. When the cam sprocket is re-tightened, you should be able to achieve your COI setting.

hi
i moved the pump as far on the slots as i could that brought it down to the lower figure, spoke to the guy that done it and he used all the right gear to lock things and is adament that it is timed spot on, im still getting the fault 00550 which he reckons is a part on the pump that does the controlling of injection timing
ill wait till after new year see if i can find a tame diesel fitter to go over the timing for me.
many thanks for all this info, i would norm do all the work myself but due to back problems i cant anymore

There is one thing that you can check for straight away. Set the engine to the TDC mark on the flywheel, aligned with the mark on the box. Then take a look at the mark on the front crankshaft damper and see if it aligns with the mark on the timing belt casing. What the other mechanic says could be right; it may have a problem with the pump.

just looked at the ford tis (cant get elsawin working) and it seems i missed a bolt at back of pump so that explians the very small movement i got, ill av a try tomorrow when its light see if i can find this bolt/nut at rear of pump and try again to time it

Yes, there are three at the front, one outside, two accessed through the pulley and one at the back below the injector lines.

hi
done it i think?? it was the bolt at back that caught me out but heres my readings. couldnt get engine upto 80deg had it ticking over for an hour best i got to was 71.3
using measurment block 4
req timing 1.3deg btdc
actual timing 1.5deg btdc

block 2 = 59
block 9 =131

the fault code has gone now but before i use it just want confirmation that its correct as im unsure what block 2 and block 9 should read, the graph displayed the above settings as well but engine was too cold.

Happy new year to you all

It is within spec but still out. You need to get it hotter and use the VAG-COM graph, this will allow you to tick a box for 80 degrees being hot.

hi. hope this thread is still watched.
got the timing spot on with vag com and its quite happy there. now then its still a niosey engine as in sounds like a tranny van with tdi knock also lots of intake noise tho ive checked all pipes etc. still goes into limp mode which i believe is n75 acting itself . im changing all vav pipes and n75. also while at it ill check that the plunger on turbo is moving freely

I think you should pop the cam cover off and check the condition of the lifter tops.

brand new lifters and valves, no wear on cam. its not a cam rattle its if the timing was too far advanced making that heavy diesel knock wereas ive got the pump timing spot on using vag come. its exact on the middle line.

Are you getting the error code still?

just getting n75 fault and in limp mode still got to change that and check the actuator arm on turbo

The next step is to remove the injectors and have them flow tested. Have you had the head off this engine?

when i got car the belt had slipped and took out 4 inlet valves. the head was rebuilt with all new parts complete apart from the injectors. basic timing and dynamic is spot on

When did this noise start? Did you do the head?

engine was loud as soon as it started it went quiter as i retarded the pump timing with vag com. ive got it spot on with vag com but can go further back but left it on the center line

I was finally able to check the error codes on my Sharan (AFN 1.9 TDI '99) this weekend and found the 00550 code on the engine controller.
With the TDIgraph and engine idling heated to 82 degrees I get a timing off the scale at 203.
Quick question as this seems a lot, the car runs however it is very sluggish and noisy but otherwise OK. Is that possible with this timing or should I look at the N108 valve ?
Next question, is it possible that the range on moving the injection pump able to cover this difference or is it likely the belt is off by a notch ?
I've checked the resistance on the lift valve, which was just in scope at 116.4 ohms.

Thanks for any help .. 8-)

Try moving the pump but you should really check the cam timing first.

sorry i cant help as im new to tdi units but learning very fast.
my car has very loud intake noise how i dont know as all pipes are on and secure.
been working it out that the car has a very harsh coarse engine noise weras my mates is sort of soft muted niose and lovly to drive.
getting to the point on mine i wish i kept my petrol galaxy as driving it about sounds like them old post office ldv vans they ran about in