BKD timing belt replacement Torsion at -0.5 and l/h at 0.6, hard to start and low power

Hello all.

This is my first post, although I have spent the last week reading many posts on this subject.

Before I replaced my(actually my poor wife's!) timing belt the Skoda Octavia Mk2 2005 2.0 tdi with a BKD engine was running great - started easy and plenty of power, seldom smoke. I wish I took torsion and l/h data at this point, but I didn't.

After replacing the belt with the locking tool and pins, and before fine tuning with the cam sprocket bolts, the torsion was 0.5 and l/h .6. I didn't test drive it.

I adjusted the cams to get the torsion to -0.5 and the l/h to 0.6 and had troubles. With a torsion to -0.5 and l/h 0.6 and it took a while to start and lacked power above 3000 rpms, top speed on 50mph and sometimes even stalled.

I now have it back to torsion 0.5 and l/h to 0.6 and it starts well but still lacks power over 2500rpmAttachment 39045. This setup seems to minimise the injector deviation in block 13 too.

I can see from the marks I made on the cam sprockets that the adjustments I made are very fine, like about 1 mm off their pegged position.
I have tried numerous alternative combinations of torsion and l/h without luck.

There is another piece of information.. originally I reversed the hoses that supply the tandem pump when putting the fuel filter housing back in. I am worried this may have introduced contaminants and is causing the lack of power under load/higher rpms. I have already replaced the head of the fuel filter housing and it made no difference.

So I would be very grateful for some advice.
1. Is there any advice on torsion and l/h settings to address the lack of power under load.
2. Is there any diagnostics that would identify a fuel supply problems

Any other bones would be well received too

Thanks very much for your help

That torsion value is almost perfect, anything inside +/- 3 is acceptable. Carry out a boost delivery test in 011 and graph it. I am surprised you don't have an underboost code.

Hi Crasher and thanks for your quick reply!

Here is a module 11 boost graph after I drove at low speed. I have to take a pic because my diagnostics are stand alone. Attachment 39046

Today I locked the crankshaft with a Laser locking tool (the 12 oclock one) and freshly pegged the cams to undo my guess work. Now my torsion is kw 0.5 and l/h is 0.7.
Now it does not start as easy nor does it have power under load. Idles alright and accelerates nice up to about 30mph. After 30mph or under load power disappears and if I stop quick it even stalls. If it stalls I have to wait several minutes b4 it will start again, like its flooded. That said when it does start there is not smoke.

Have you got any ideas for me? Do you think reversing those fuel pipes to the tandem pump is a factor? Thanks buddy

Does anyone have experience of poor high end power after replacing the timing belt, with good torsion and l/h specs? I have methodically tried numerous cam positions and no massive difference.

Where I am now leaning towards is the fuel supply. I put the the hoses from the fuel filter to the fuel pump beside the block on the wrong way for a bit. The rain washed my markings off.. If I pulled in crap from the dirty side of the filter any idea where it would end up? is there a secondary gauze filter anywhere or any bottle neck that is worth checking first. Or am I barking up the wrong tree here.

Sorry to be a pain

Did you remove the inlet cam hub behind the wheel?

No, i never fully removed the intake cam sprocket.
Were you happy with module 11 graph? I replaced the turbo a couple years ago and its been good since. Still no error codes. Thanks Crasher

Nor did I remove the exhaust cam sprocket for that matter.. Cheers

So I am still struggling away here. When I removed the fuel lines from the filter housing it was in the rain and my marks got washed off.

I wonder if I still have the fuel lines crossed to the tandem pump. At the moment the return line from the tandem (the one with the temp sensor inline) attaches to the fuel filter hosing to the port closest to the front of the car. This looks right according to most fuel system diagrams I can see but .. that front most port of is only port that goes to the inside of the filter. Wouldn't it make more sense to supply the tandem pump with the port from the inside of the filter? The part number of my filter housing is 3C0 127 400B, I don't know if it makes a difference..

Attachment 39062

Attached are pics of my current fuel line order and the fuel housing head - I marked with tape, the top front most port and the corresponding one on the bottom.
Attachment 39063


Attachment 39061

I have a 170PD BMN Golf 5 in the car park which I need to put back together so it will try and get time to take a pic after I have finished an AdBlue pump.

Mine look like this, which appears to have the two on the bay edge swapped over compared with your photo. "Upper" line to least central spigot.

Attachment 39064

Attachment 39065

This might be more helpful in case you have the lines replaced / running different way up...

Attachment 39066

Hey thanks so much for those pics. I noticed your filter housing has a bleed screw, or something, on top and is is different to mine, are there flow diagrams for the various filter housings?

Well spotted. I think mine is Mann & Hummel and yours is UFI.

Significant difference is that on mine fuel line spigots into filter are the outer ones, and inner pair are out to engine / fuel return.

Other way around on yours, so looks like engine side pair are wrong way around.

EDIT: You can see the positioning of the engine lines for your filter type here: https://bparts-eu.s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/images/56076/original/images/56076/clean_image/6k5503c4jq0jgujd931stfjs31iy9jp5.jpg.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Craig Haufek

Attachment 39062

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Not that it matters much now, but when I first saw that picture the engine side lines looked like one was a bit too long and one a bit too short. Because of the hose clips at the filter end I assumed they had been replaced, and cut somewhat "approximately". Later inspection showed the Audi loops still visible on one and the original clips at engine end. That sort of "hunch" has helped me avoid similar snags in the past.

Hey man this is brilliant. You are right mine is a UFI and I never saw a pic like the last one you posted of the engine side lines. I am going to replace the filter, reverse those hoses and pray its that simple. I will report back.
Thanks again for your help

Hey VAG-Abound, that was it. I can't thank you enough for the info on the UFI filter housing units having different flow directions. Thanks to you also Crasher!
Amazing that the car was working at all with the tandem pump fuel lines reversed.

If you are ever down in Brighton I would would to buy you a beer.

Very pleased for you. I'm sure you can have a good chuckle about it with you wife now as well ;).

Sorry I didn’t post a pic, I was fighting an A6 ultra AdBlue pump replacement and its ******* stupid locking ring (Audi, WHY?), by the time I had finished rebuilding and adaption I ran out of time and was so knackered I could hardly drive home, stick a ready curry in the oven and pour a long cold one (Mrs Crasher is climbing mountains in Pict Land with her sister).