P0299 - 006 - ControlRange Not Reached - Intermittent

**APOLOGIES for posting this twice, I replied to a post in the wrong section initially, I didn't realise until now**

Afternoon guys,

I had this issue on the 24th July on the M1, was just over-taking a car at about 65-70 then there was a sudden jolt, my foot was flat to the floor and I had no power. Moved over to the left lane and noticed the glow plug light was flashing, I didn't hear a bing as I had the windows down (air con needs a regas!), the stretch of M1 I travel on daily is a "smart motorway" meaning no hard shoulder so had to travel another 3-4 miles before I could pull over and restart the engine.

After restarting the engine the issue cleared and I was able to complete my journey home (another 3 miles on A roads). I drove the car over to a friends in the evening to get it scanned, (round trip of 9 miles), had no issues on the journey although I seem to think the car is a little hesitant and the idle is sometimes a bit lumpy and when driving at low speed (noticing that more and more now). We cleaned the EGR about a month ago as assumed that was probably the cause (see pics).

It's a BMR 170 TDI 2007 with near on 180k on the clock, it's serviced on time every year and hasn't failed an MOT since I last took to the *******, sorry dealer about 6 years ago.

I've driven in to work this every day since with no problem (or than the above mentioned issues).

Address 01: Engine Labels: 03G-906-018-BMN.clb
Part No SW: 03G 906 018 AS HW: 03G 906 018 AS
Component: R4 2.0l PPD1.2 G 9971
Revision: --H42--- Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
Coding: 0000072
Shop #: WSC 00450 210 69121
VCID: 76E447D6014446F40E-8022

1 Fault Found:
000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 006 - ControlRange Not Reached - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
FaultStatus: 00000001
FaultPriority: 5
FaultFrequency: 1
Resetcounter: 39
Mileage:288773 km
TimeIndication: 0
Date:2019.07.24
Time:15:38:08

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2208/min
Torque:304.0 Nm
Speed:118.0 km/h
74.88 %
Voltage:14.13 V
Pressure:2321.7 mbar
Pressure:1895.7 mbar

Readiness: N/A

If it's the actuator as suggested on some other threads it sounds like it needs setting up so it's not a DIY job, other options I suppose is replacing the entire turbo with a recon unit as there doesn't seem to be much price difference between that and the actuator on its own.

Any suggestions on what to check first?

Many thanks,

Nick.

Attachment 36148 Attachment 36149

That is underboost, normal a leak in the vacuum control system preventing the ECU controlling the boost correctly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crasher

That is underboost, normal a leak in the vacuum control system preventing the ECU controlling the boost correctly.

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Morning, thank you for the reply. Is there anything I could check at home or is it a job for my local garage? Could this also cause the hesitation/juddering I'm experiencing as well when accelerating or driving at low speed?

Many thanks,

Nick.

The vacuum system uses the injection tandem pump to develop the vacuum which also powers the brake servo so the first step is to remove the small pipe from the servo pipe and apply a vacuum and you should not be able to draw any air.

I know this is old now but I've continued to drive the car, even did a 800 mile round trip to Newquay and that's the last time it threw this error. The juddering at idle now seems to be getting worse but there is no pattern to it happening, what I have noticed is when it's juddering on idle and then I start to drive it sounds like the exhaust is blowing (I've had it checked as I recently had the back box replaced and it's OK) and it's a little smokey around the back, as soon as it starts happening it can stop again, sometimes it's 10 mins sometimes it's a minute or 2.

I've had the turbo checked and the tests show it's the actuator at fault for the original error, I'm just wondering if the other symptoms are related or if I've potentially got other problems.

Thank you.

Has the DPF been removed?

Hi, no it's still there as far as I know, I haven't asked for it to be removed if that's what you mean?

I've looked at getting it TerraCleaned, has anyone had any experience with this before and has it helped? Certainly seen some positive reviews.

I've bitten the bullet and it's getting a turbo fitted tomorrow, also getting the timing belt/water pump done at the same time.

I'll see how it is after this work is done.

So I had the turbo and the timing belt replaced, got the car back yesterday (first turbo was faulty and the tensioner stud wouldn't torque in the head caused a delay). Had the car back about 2 hours and on my first drive the same error triggered.

The car is back in the garage and is now showing a fault with the intake manifold, a new replacement is £500 :-( I found a thread on another forum which Mitch responded to, possibly the same issue. The garage are cleaning it out and trying to solve it without costing me lots of money. I know the owner so he's not trying to rip me off.

What is the fault code?

Hi, slight update since the last post.

The manifold was cleaned up, it's not perfect but it's much better now than in these pictures. They've also fitted a new sensor (I'm sorry I'm not 100% sure which one but I think they said around the back of the engine).

Attachment 36695 Attachment 36696

I picked the car up again earlier after they'd taken it for a 30 min test drive error free, they weren't 100% happy with it still but suggested I give it a go, got about 500 metres from the garage, hit the first hill climb and the car was struggling, no boost in 3rd up to 3000 revs then booooom "Engine Fault Workshop". I took it straight back to the garage who scanned it, I didn't see the error code but saw multiple possible causes, some of which they've already checked/sorted.

I'll try and get some more information from them tomorrow. When I left they were removing the front bumper to check the intercooler for leaks (again).

The fault code number is the starting point.

Looks like your flap rail is leaking from the swivel joint side as there is a lot of sooty deposits on the outside of the manifold. This is very difficult to repair as it is plastic that has worn away although some really clever bods would be able to fabricate something I'm sure. I would be tempted to swap it for the metal non flap version and delete the actuator part of the vacuum and electrical circuits, a common swap. The slight pressure loss from the inlet manifold may be enough to cause odd running or pop a fault code.

Thanks for the replies guys.

We are on to turbo number 3 (from a different supplier) fitted at no cost to me (it was getting fitted tonight so I'll know the outcome tomorrow). They did mention the sooty deposits on the manifold, there were some other issues that were sorted that they say caused the build up.

Do you happen to know the part number / cost of the metal non flap version if I did decide on replacing it?

Many thanks,

Nick.

Yes it would be 03G 129 713 as found commonly on BKD engines and the cost would be in the region of £120 to £140. Some bracket modification would be required to fit the existing engine cover after the swap.

Are they still getting P0299?

Ask them to disconnect the 3mm vacuum hose from the tandem pump to servo vacuum line and apply a vacuum to the 3mm line and see what happens i.e. if they can generate a vacuum or draw air.

Thanks for the info Mitch, and Crasher and I'll pass on what you've asked.

I've just spoken to the garage, they've fitted the 3rd turbo and it's the same as the 2nd turbo as in bottom end there is no power and it's not boosting until around 3000 rpm, even then there is no-where near the power that it should be producing, it's not error'd on the short drive they took it on and they can't take it much further as the front bumper is off. Displaying the same symptoms as before so the turbo isn't the fault.

Now investigating the exhaust system / dpf for any blockages before they check anything else.

Have they done an output test in basic settings 011 with the engine idling? When they do this, the revs should rise to about 1200 and the arm of the turbo be seen to go from min to max and back about every ten seconds, it is a very quick and easy test to see if the system is working as I suspect it is not.

Thanks Crasher, I've passed that on. If it's not working what do you suggest to try next?

DPF has checked out OK by the way.

It can simply be a control system vacuum leak or failed N75 valve but in the vast majority of cases I have seen, under-boost is a loss vacuum in the control system, often just a split piece of vacuum hose.

Morning guys,

Car is still in the garage (was caught up during lockdown), they are re-opening and I've spoken to them about switching the inlet manifold for the non-plastic version. Is there a guide for this or is it a straight swap out?

Many thanks,

Nick.

Afternoon everyone,

Car still throwing error P0299 (underboost condition).

It's got a new turbo and had the intake/inlet manifold changed for the metal version (lower end performance is a little better since this was done), 5 mins in to my test drive on a slight incline it threw the error and went in to limp mode again.

It's currently running with several other new parts on there, throttle body, MAF sensor etc. (I've asked for a full list)

Not sure if it's worth changing all the pipework, not even sure how much something like that would cost.

Looking for suggestions again if anyone can assist.

Thanks.

Does your garage have boost system charge pressurisation or smoke testing equipment? However, under boost is nearly always a leak in the vacuum control system.

Hi, they have borrowed a smoke tester for tomorrow, I think he said Mityvac (not sure if that's the correct spelling).

They have checked the hoses several times but don't think they've smoke tested it.

They need to smoke test the charge air system at no more than 0.5Bar from the pipe after the air mass meter. There will be the odd tail of vapour, you are looking for something more obvious. You could also use the smoke machine on the vacuum system and that needs to be perfectly vapour tight or use a Mity Vac in vacuum mode to pull a vacuum on the servo to tandem pump hose and it needs to pull upto max on the gauge and stay there.

Thanks mate, I've passed that information on just in case.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crasher

They need to smoke test the charge air system at no more than 0.5Bar from the pipe after the air mass meter. There will be the odd tail of vapour, you are looking for something more obvious. You could also use the smoke machine on the vacuum system and that needs to be perfectly vapour tight or use a Mity Vac in vacuum mode to pull a vacuum on the servo to tandem pump hose and it needs to pull upto max on the gauge and stay there.

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Morning, they've finally got around to smoke testing and just had news that the the smoke test / mityvac results were negative, no issues found there.

Running out of ideas now, got a fresh pair of eyes on it today to see if anything was missed.

Do you have any other suggestions?

The last time I drove it the bottom end seemed better but nowhere near as good as it should be, as soon as I started to climb a hill then it went in to limp mode with error P0299 (underboost condition), the garage have test driven it as well and said it sometimes gives an overboost error as well.

Many thanks,

Nick.

I will read back from the beginning and see if I can think of anything.

Anything useful in this older thread?

P0299 - 006 - Control Range Not Reached - Intermittent B6 Passat - Page 3

Seems like the OP in the above thread spent a large amount of money before the smaller independent got to the bottom of the issue and resolved it.

Incidentally Nick King posted at the end of the above thread but have all the various possibilities mentioned been tried?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DMitch16

Anything useful in this older thread?

P0299 - 006 - Control Range Not Reached - Intermittent B6 Passat - Page 3

Seems like the OP in the above thread spent a large amount of money before the smaller independent got to the bottom of the issue and resolved it.

Incidentally Nick King posted at the end of the above thread but have all the various possibilities mentioned been tried?

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Cheers Mitch I'll have another read through, DPF stood out immediately though when I clicked the link and they've had the DPF off and run the car without it. This was before they switched the plastic inlet manifold for the metal version, I'll suggest it again though and anything else on that thread they might not have tried.

I've passed all the info on to the garage and it appears they've done it all already, really stumped with this one and open to any suggestions :-)

"it’s already had a cleaner through it as one of first things we’ve done. The diff press sensor has been tested already ����*♂️ we’re going to double do everything sensor wise and also put another cleaner through ������*♂️"

Edit: just had a call, taking the DPF to get it cleaned properly as all the readings suggest it's that.

I thought it had been cleaned properly already?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crasher

I thought it had been cleaned properly already?

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They put a cleaner through it but I guess it's that badly blocked it hasn't done anything to clear it.

Putting a cleaner in is about as much use as ******* in the fuel filler... perhaps that would be more useful.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crasher

Putting a cleaner in is about as much use as ******* in the fuel filler... perhaps that would be more useful.

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haha yeah I get that impression, if it can't be properly cleaned then the alternative is something like this VW PASSAT 2008 2.0 TDI 170bhp DIESEL PARTICULATE FILTER DPF - BRM done 30.000 | eBay rather than forking out for a brand new one or possibly Darkside Developments - DPF Delete Downpipe for PD170 / PPD170 - BMN and BMR 2.0 TDi 16v

Don’t bring in DPF delete pipes into this or else I could get grumpy...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crasher

Don’t bring in DPF delete pipes into this or else I could get grumpy...

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Morning, no need to be grumpy I did the right thing :-)

Just thought I'd update in case anyone came across this thread and had a similar issue, the DPF had partially collapsed so I've had it replaced with a brand new one. I decided against both a 2nd hand DPF and deleting it entirely.

In short I've had the turbo replaced (that was shot), the split plastic intake/inlet manifold swapped for the metal version (I have a PDF guide on how to do this if anyone is considering it) and the DPF and related sensors replaced. It wasn't cheap, but it was worth it. It's currently running with a new EGR valve and throttle body but will be swapping back to the originals later in the week.

I honestly can't remember the last time it had the power it has now, it's like driving a brand new car.

Thank you everyone for your comments and suggestions, got there in the end.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nick.king

the DPF had partially collapsed so I've had it replaced with a brand new one

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:You_Rock_:approve::notworthy which make did they fit?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crasher

:You_Rock_:approve::notworthy which make did they fit?

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Hi, sorry didn't know you'd posted again, I'm told the part is OEM.

Thanks for this thread and for all the updates, including the eventual fix. I have similar sounding issues:

Limp mode if under load like driving up a hill or accelerating hard to join a motorway etc.
Fault code for DPF differential sensor so I replaced and adapted it.
Fault code P0299 for low boost.
Computer keeps trying to regen the DPF all the time even after long motorway drives and fans always on and baking hot when we get home.
Really bad mpg, I guess because of the DPF regen attempts.
Low rumbling sound like the exhaust is blowing especially when driving around town and backing off the accelerator.
What appears to be a leak of exhaust from the V-band clamp between the turbo and the DPF, I can smell exhaust in the car and under the bonnet and I see a small puff of smoke in the area of the turbo when starting from cold (could this be the cause of it all?)

I think pretty much all of those things were mentioned in this thread so sounds pretty similar to me. I see repeated mention of a vacuum leak being a likely cause when P0299 happens (although I see that it ultimately wasn't for yours). I've tested my actuator on the turbo and it moves, and it holds vacuum ok. An output test on the N75 was successful as I could see the actuator moving in and out every few seconds, so I think the vacuum side of things is probably all ok (unless you think it could still be an issue?).

So it sounds like I'm pretty much in the same boat as you were last year, and the thread's pointing me (I hope) in the right direction.

Cheers!

B@rnstormer