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Every time I turn left there is a sort of drone/hum coming from front right wheel area...could this be the bearing? I jacked the car up and tried to rock the wheel as they would at MOT, but no movement discernible. Anyone have an idea what this would be? Car is s Golf MkV 2.0tdi.
You will never see any free play in these and yes the do fail BUT also rear ones can sound like the front and are more prone to going AND the rear tyres on the Golf 5 platform can cause the same noise.
That's interesting, thanks. At times I have thought the noise was from the rear, so I suppose we'll see, come MOT in a few weeks. I've had a look at both front and rear replacement procedures, seem to be pretty straightforward jobs. Thanks again
Meant to ask - is there a way of determining bearing wear, if the wheel-rocking test doesn't show anything?
The noise when spinning it off the deck, it is an MOT failure now, one of my techs Golf 5 failed for it a week or so ago.
I have just done one on an A3 8P which is the same, the worst bit is the M18 XZN bolt, 180Nm+180 degrees...:bigeyes:
Is that the central/hub bolt?
Did a test yesterday, span both front wheels with them up in the air - couldn't detect any noise or roughness at all. Have to move to the rears! Though I did find that the ns cv gaiter had no retaining band, with the result that the driveshaft outer bearings have been exposed to god knows what for god knows how long. Don't you just hate former owners...
yesQuote:
Originally Posted by dekhelia
Had a look at the bolt...what on earth d'you use to get it off, some kind of giant Allen key?
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Originally Posted by dekhelia
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Originally Posted by Crasher
You need a strong M18 XZN 3/4" drive and a BIG power bar at least 4 feet long. Firstly I bought a cheap one with the hole in the middle and when it sheared off I ended up in a crumpled heap on the floor so I bought the correct T10162
https://i222.photobucket.com/albums/...162topview.jpg
Jesus. Thanks for the info about the tools. Although the bolt on mine - and on the new one I've just had delivered - is not a 12-point but a regular hex, hence the Allen key question. Would the 12-point undo the six-sided "hole" in the head of the bolt on mine? Why don't they just use a regular bolt with a normal head, ffs? I haven't started to hate this car yet, as it drives like a go-kart on steroids and returns high mpg - but there is time yet...MOT is up in a week, and I think the clatter I have at idle is the flywheel telling me it is poorly. Constant clack-clack, running at about 7 per second, which at the idle speed of the BKD engine would suggest something going at the speed of the crank. ie the flywheel. Bother this car!
Thanls though, Crasher.
Why did I think you had a rear wheel bearing issue? The front is a WHOLE different job.
Wheel off, release the centre bolt, remove (usually snap) the ball joint nuts and pull the hub away. Remove the 10mm XZN bolts and then have hell getting the bearing out of the hub as it corrodes in solid.
https://i222.photobucket.com/albums/...eelbearing.jpg
fit new bearing kit
https://i222.photobucket.com/albums/...lbearing-1.jpg
Ok that seems straightforward enough...I have a press, so maybe the bearing will be somewhat easier to deal with? I think the possibility of it being rear bearing is still live: as you say, difficult to know exactly where a noise is generated, when it covers such a broad acoustic range
It is bolted into the hub as a cartridge so in THEORY you unbolt it a take it out, well that's the theory. In practice is will be rusted solid and we have a tool that bolts to the hub and you "tap" it with a 3ilb Copper hammer....
Well, took Golf for MOT and it failed on an indicator lens and split CV boot (NS outer). No mention of bearings. Could it be that the split boot has allowed enough gunk into the joint to cause the hum? I've bought an M18 thingy that you mentioned Crasher, and also a new CV joint. Thought I might as well replace this, since you have to pop the joint off to get the new boot on anyway...
Right, the M18 XZN bit that came doesn't fit the socket in the head of the bolt ... too small. Damn. It seems to require a 17mm hex bit, or at least that's the only thing I can get to fit, in either the original bolt or the replacement that came with the new CV joint. VAG must have used more than one fixing for this application, I suppose.
The M18 XZN is for the rear wheel bearing, the front varies and it sounds like you have the 17mm hex key version.
Ah, I get it now. Have ordered the 17mm hex with 1/2" drive, just hope this will be strong enough... and of course I now have the correct bit for the rear bearing if that ever needs doing
We use a 17mm 3/4” drive as we have “Bertha”, an old girl air gun but she puts out 500lbft of torque so not much beats her, tightening needs to be more controlled so we use a 3/4” drive long arm bar which is 5 feet long and even then strong words are said “putting on the angle” which is usually 180 degrees, so often it is 180Nm plus 180 degrees.