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I have aftermarket wheels on my car, supplied and fitted by a company in Scotland. Just had my car back from audi for front brake replacement and they found this.
50555 | AudiCam
Obviously I'm going to take it back to wheel shop, but how would you resolve this?
Thanks
Griogair
That looks like a universal fit type spacer that would cover a range of PCD's with a centre bore way to big for your hub spigot, it will be relying on the bolts to centralise it, must be a total PITA to mount the wheels! - see if you can find a suitable spacer size specific to your hub spigot, PCD and thickness, somewhere like here:
https://www.performancealloys.com/ac...el-spacers?p=3
Bolt length needs checking as well, if the locking bolt is only engaged by a few threads it will either come loose or strip your hub threads after a few tightenings. If the wheel is not mounting onto the hub spigot properly you'll be relying on the bolt tapers to centralise the wheel as the bolts are tightened. I'd also make sure that your new wheels are compatible with the conical wheel bolts being used and do not require ball or radius seat type bolts.
Are you sure the supplier is competent to be fitting wheels ?
That is really poor! Surprised you have not noticed any vibration. I would get them off asap and either use the oem wheels in the mean time until you get a proper set of 66.5 c/b spacers and correct length including the locking bolt. Again make sure the bolts match the hole ie taper or radius.
I took one front wheel off tonight. I got 2.5 turns on the lock nut! [emoji53] Looks like about 9 on the other 4. As far as I can see they have used a 5mm spacer to get past the caliper. It has left 9mm of hub bore to locate the wheel. Trouble is, I've got approx 5mm chamfered face on my rim, so I've only got 4mm of hub bore available to seat my rim. That's surely not acceptable? You can see eye rusty residue on the rim.
Guys, I'd really appreciate if someone could give me an exact link to a specific hubcentric spacer I could buy.
Uploaded selection of pics I took this afternoon FYI. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c78372f6ce.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a71d39da5e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...35bf24a19d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f76e5c8a2e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0f63b50b1b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...704d1fb23f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...682f03745f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...272086c2e3.jpg
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You need a 5mm spacer to clear the calipers; but no one makes a 5mm 'hubcentric' spacer! hence why you have probably ended up with a universal spacer. The bolts are the correct length: 27+5mm= 32mm
Ideall see if you can get away with a 10mm spacer on your set up without having the tyres protruding outside the arches. If so then you can get some hubcentric spacers such as H&R, Eibach or Bimecc etc.
Unfortunately the locking bolt is definitely not the right size. I didn't post a pic, but you can see the difference in the video. Much smaller and only gets 2 and a half turns.
Jeez, why don't you get a 5mm hubcentric?! That's not what I want to hear.
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have a look on the link I posted in #2 , I'm seeing the sort of spacers you need there by searching for A6 C7, bringing up spacers at 5x112pcd centre bore of 66.45mm, such as these with centering collar or spigot https://www.performancealloys.com/ei...r-system-2-8mm. drop them a line if in doubt. They do locking bolts in various lengths as well.
Thanks Rob. I put my car details in, and I searched for 5mm spacer. It tells me this H&R spacer will fit, but the PCD and centre bore specified here aren't what I need. So I'm a little confused https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5086f6762a.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Rob69
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Hi. Looking at this from the other end of the issue, if you have a 5mm spacer to clear the calliper then, have you considered removing material from the rim. It would need to be done correctly. but if it were to be only a couple of mill over a small part of the inner rim it may be possible. Again I would advise having it done by an engineering firm. That way it would put less stress on the hub and bolts. Or have a firm make you a set of spacers and bolts to do the job properly.
I think you'd best contact that company or another wheel specialist to ensure you get what you need - I sent you that link as an example of what's out there, I don't want to specify a particular spacer set for you and then you find it is no use for whatever reason !!Quote:
Originally Posted by gdallas
your original supplier has been pretty shoddy though, especially fitting a wheel bolt with two threads engaged, they were lucky to get the required torque without stripping the bolt and hub - if it was even torqued correctly.
I know of a Scottish company that is happy to refit OE radiused locking bolts to aftermarket wheels (where conical bolts are supplied) without informing the customer. It's not something I would do and a shame because they are the official UK distributor for their reputable product. No kind anmes. Unfortunately I'm unable to name them publicly without risking legal escalation, but maybe you can name your supplier so that others can ask appropriate questions if considering them.
Edited for typo ;)
Splash, my supplier is based in Falkirk. I don't particularly want to name them. But would be interesting to know if your supplier is based in the same area?
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Yeah, I understand the not naming bit. My supplier was down the M74 and fitted a few cars on-site in what was primarily an import and distribution operation. You'd think with the small number of physical fittings to cars (maybe 2 or 3 a week max) they might be able to have the correct locking bolts ready for the customers who were all booked in. I did suggest to them that rather than get it wrong and risk damaging the car, they route all "mounted" orders through one of their customers who is a specialist. I guess there's a trade-off between profit and safety and I sit at a different point on that line.
People might take for granted that it's simple enough changing a wheel or sticking on a set of alloys, spacers or chromed bolts and let some inexperienced guy get on with it, but they are modifying a designed and tested safety critical assembly. mixing conical and radiused bolts and wheels should never be done.
I was asked years ago to look at a four wheeled plant trailer, which had lost a wheel on the road somewhere, the nuts were still tight on the studs but all rounded of to stumps, the wheel had come off over the nuts because new wheels had been fitted with 1/2" holes onto 3/8" studs, the conical nuts had bottomed out tight onto the hub rather than seating properly on the conical seats of the wheel, the wheels were effectively loose and one had rattled enough to wear away the holes over the nuts.