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I have the 1.9Tdi with115hp Engine (AUY) and I may need to spend money on it due to poss head gone. Could anyone tell me if the 1.9/2.0 engines with 130/150/170 bhp from the VW/Audi range will fit easily or are all electronics and looms different? :1zhelp: Please.
Pretty much bolt in in most respects BUT the injectors on the 130/150 are different to the 115 and I don’t think they would work correctly. If you only fitted the block/head of a 1350/150 in a 115, you would still only have 115PS, you would not have the power of the new engine.
Thanks for that Crasher, I am getting the head off it this week and hope it's just a gasket job. I have been told it starts getting expensive if head warped/cracked so wanted to find out if it would be easier to drop another lump in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crasher
The most common issue with PD heads is the injectors damaging their bores, this is visible when the injectors are out for the head to be re-faced. Usually I use a new aftermarket head from AMC as they are less than half the price of a genuine new casting at around £900. If you have a head gasket leak, don’t expect to be able to see any visible signs on the block, head or gasket, they leak so subtlety I have never yet seen the actual leak.
K Thanks for that Crasher, will let you know how I get on when I get the head off, don't want to throw too many £'s after this but would like to try and sort it as I've had the car since new and was gonna run it till it was broke. It will be a poor show if it's broke after 100k and 9yrs.........Quote:
Originally Posted by Crasher
I have been told that if the injectors get stuck in their bores it is potentially new head (£800) and new injectors (£1,000) :aargh4:. Is this right?? I really hope this is not the case as it will surely be cheaper to source another lump to put in? Crasher does the head usually need skimming or can you just get away with just fitting a new gasket? I expect though it will be wise to get it checked and pressure tested?
Seems this is not an uncommon problem with the 1.9pd engine.
depending on whether you're at the mercy of the garage, or intend to DIY (I'd advise against this unless you know what you're doing).Quote:
Originally Posted by Drui
A recon head is, imho, better than a skim of an existing one. It's as broad as it's long, but a recon head has been reworked and pressure tested, you've no guarentee that if you send your existing head for a skim, it will hold under testing and you'll still have a bill to pay regardless.
I sourced a head for ~£350, with a new cam and followers coming in at around £150 (new lifters, used cam), injectors were coming in at around £100 cost (with trade discount iirc).
with other parts such as seals, belt and bolt kits, the total job came in at just short of £1000, that was with DIY.
I would seriously consider whether the value of the car allows you to consider a re-head or engine before you proceed bud.
If the injectors require the special VAG slide hammer tool to remove them, it can mean that the injector bores are damaged (see pic) as a result of the injectors moving around which itself is the result of a poor design. A head from AMC is about £400 and four Bosch injectors can be bought for just under £1K but often the injectors are OK as they are steel and just show rubbing marks on their sides, it is the head that suffers. The head, according to VW, should not be skimmed or reworked in any way but I have had full VW exchange PD heads (rather scary at over £2.5K) and these have quite obviously been refaced by VW so I am not sure why they say that but yes, I think it must be refaced to make sure it is true and flat and to do this the valves, injectors and glow plugs must be removed, never ever refit old glow plugs, a broken £10 glow plug will seriously ruin your day. You could fit another engine but who is to say it is not in the same state or worse? Of course if the valves are removed then you should fit new lifters (about £10 each) and PD cams are prone to wear but I am very suspicious of pattern PD cams, I have seen some fail at an alarming rate.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...redamage-2.jpg
Thanks for your help, all the above is good advice and usefull. I am gonna bite the bullet and get the head off and see where we go from there. I have pretty good mechanical knowledge having spent a couple of years spannering albeit a few years ago on older cars but also have a mate who is helping who is currently a fitter/technician so will let you know what we find.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eshrules
Thanks again for your help, I'm getting the head off tomorrow night and see what we find. Do you know if these PD engines are all prone to this sort of failure? Seems a lot go around the 90-130k mark, anyone heard of these engines doing big miles?Quote:
Originally Posted by Crasher
It is rare that the injectors have an issue in service, the problems start if they have to be removed for one reason or the other. The AJM is prone to head gasket failure.
Thought I would give you an update. Got head off ok (pretty tight and a bit fiddly), you could actually see where there had been some tracking marks between the no 2 cylinder and a coolant channel, hence the pressure build up. Got the head pressure tested etc and skimmed, gew gasket and bolts and it's all back together.
Done around 40 steady miles in it and it seems ok, had to top up about 1/2" of water but hoping thats just it finding the level.....bottom pipe is hot and not rock hard and full of pressure. Will take it on a longer run and do a few motorway miles to test it a little more today.
Only thing that is now puzzling me is this. I don't get any heat coming throught the heaters until I turn them right up to Hi, then if I turn it down to 28/29 it is luke warm and any lower than that and it is cold?? I am hoping that this is a tempreture sender/sensor problem and not something still wrong inside the engine.......
Forgot to mention, both fans also come on and stay on within a minute of starting the engine, not sure if this is normal?
You have a circulation issue there, did you fit a new water pump when replacing the belt? The fans coming on like that is normal if you have the A/C set to auto, try it on ECON and see if they come on.
I fitted new water pump, rad and thermostat before I went for the head gasket so they are all ok. I am told there is a heater valve (not sure if thats the correct name) that sits behind the header tank? Could this be causing the prob? The heaters work but only if you turn them up to Hi.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crasher
Car seems to be running fine otherwise, had to top the header tank up a little twice but it's settled down now and I've done 100mls or so and it's ok.
Is this a Golf or a Sharan?
It is a Sharan 4 motion 2001Quote:
Originally Posted by Crasher
There is a valve for the auxiliary heater, one for the EGR cooler and an additional electric water pump, I think you have an air lock.
Ok Thanks for that Crasher, makes sense as the system was getting very pressurised before I did the head gasket. Obviously a big car/heating system, any tips for bleeding it out please?Quote:
Originally Posted by Crasher
Time and patience.
Ok Thanks, will try some of that then.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Crasher
Latest is that all is well and the car is running fine, done approx 300 miles now with no probs and heaters working ok. Thanks to all that posted your help:D