Hi Rachel
Just found this thread, boy you are suffering.
Has anyone checked to see if you have any cracked or split breather hoses or vacuum pipes? These are often overlooked, but can surprisingly cause a variety of poor running problems.
Rgds
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Hi Rachel
Just found this thread, boy you are suffering.
Has anyone checked to see if you have any cracked or split breather hoses or vacuum pipes? These are often overlooked, but can surprisingly cause a variety of poor running problems.
Rgds
Hi,
My car has been in the garage again today and the fault code again was the lambda sensor. They told me that there are 2 sensors and they that the garage it previously went to could have changed the wrong one. The mechanic explained to me that there is a sensor either side of the cat (?) and it was the heated one that needed replacing. He told me that this would cost £160 as the part needed to be ordered from VW. He than called me back 5 minutes later to say that he managed to get it elsewhere and would cost £94 fitted.
So now, a new exhaust, 2 lambda sensors and a sender unit later lets see how I get on!!
Rachel.
Ohh, that's a little surprising (to me), I thought they only came with one lambda sensor on that age of car, thinking that 2-sensor (upstream and downstream of the main cat) came in about 2001ish. I could be very wrong though, so no flames please, and I'd gladly be corrected. Incidentally, what manufacturers model year is your car? If you look at the 10th digit of your VIN, it will give you either a number, for post 2000 build, or a letter for pre 2000 build. If you arn't sure, post your VIN here, but for security blank out the last 6 digits with asterixes. An Audi VIN will look some thing like WAUZZZ8EX3A******, on a VW VIN, the 2nd & 3rd digits will be VW, so yours would start something like WVWZZZ1J???****** - of the above Audi VIN, the 10th digit is "3", which means it was a 2003 model year.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rachel
Is it possible to go back to the previous garage and ask for a printout of the fault codes your car generated, and how they actually determined which sensor to replace. If the garage only read the generic codes, rather than the manufacturer specific codes, then they wouldn't know which one to change, and just guessed - now proving to be a costly mistake which you have had to pay for!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rachel
If that is the case, there will be an upstream (before the cat) and a downstream (after the cat) lambda sensor. These two enable the engine management system to monitor the efficiency of the cat (as well as adjusting the air/fuel mix and ignition timing).Quote:
Originally Posted by Rachel
Ahhh - sometimes, both upstream and downstream sensors are heated. On the newest cars, this is now the norm - indeed my Audi has 4 heated lambda sensors and 4 catalytic convertors - could get very expensive if a garage used guesswork!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rachel
Hopefully, they used an OEM spec from somewhere like GSF or ECP, as non-genuine lambdas are well known to be rather troublesome.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rachel
You seem to have been given a real runaround - fingures crossed it's now finally sorted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rachel
Rgds
Hi,
I have checked the VIN number and the tenth digit is a 1. The date of registration is 20/07/2000.
I'm not too sure I want to go back to the garage where they prevoiusly changed a lambda sensor. The garage I took it to asked where I had previously took it and when I told them hey said 'Say no more'. He just said that they are a very old skool garage.
When I had the lambda sensor changed on friday the guy explained the codes to me. He said that reading the fault code and not going into detail would of made them think that it was the sensor that they changed. He had a list of codes which he showed me. I'm hoping that I'm not being conned as this is costing me a fortune! The sensor they used was a Boosch one which he told me was the same one that would of cost £123 + vat from VW.
I now hope my problem is solved and I will keep you updated.
Rachel.
OK, that confirms your car is a 2001 model-year - handy to know for future reference.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rachel
Live and learn eh.. Unfortunately, with detailed specialities of modern automotive electronics/diagnostics, you really do need to find a dedicated independent VAG specialist. You could always write to the first garage, asking for the list of codes, because they are legally obliged to provide a detailed written statement/invoice of any work they carry out, and that also includes "workshop notes" (what the mechanics/techs write on the back of the workshop job card) and printouts of any diagnostic tests. Naturally, if it were a cash-in-hand job, with no invoice, and they had rows of polished baseball bats behind the counter, you may feel it prudent to let sleeping dogs lie!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rachel
Again, this new garage should still provide the printout from the fault-code reader. One garage blaming another garage for shoddy work is sadly a fact of life in the motor trade, and whilst the real cowboys are few and far between, it is an easy avenue for any garage to take. It's good news about the Bosch sensor, if my memory serves me well, Bosch along with Beru were the OEM manufacturers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rachel
I think we all join you in hoping you've now finally found a resolution to this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rachel
Rgds
Rachel,
Thanks loads for sharing your experiences of your golf. I am gaining useful insights from your findings but not yet sure which part to get fixed on my car. Would love advice from anyone on how to go about getting my problem fixed.
My golf is a 1.6 cl 1994. It has 2 issues, that remain having had the throttle idle switch unit and starter motor replaced last week.
The engine cuts out at random, usually as I come up to a junction or turn - so I guess I must be lowering the gears or in neutral.
- every so often the acceleration goes, even though I am pressing down the pedal. 2 or 3 seconds later the acceleration is back.
Is this the similar to yours? What is the latest? You talked of a red light coming on - that isn't happening to me.
You could try the relay part number 165906381 which tells the ecu about the lamda sensor. If you Google this part number, you will see it's apparently a common Golf fault that associated with engine cutting when slowing down.:Blush:
Bought the part from my local volkswagen garage. Put it in the place they told me on the relay board bit under the stearing wheel. Didn't change things. The temperature gage went somewhat hot so don't think it helped there.
Seeing as there wasn't one there in the first place I assume there is not meant to be one there now???
Thanks for the suggestion though. Up for any solutions short of spending a fortune at my local garage!