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Hi Andy, the compressor runs with 12v directly on to it. The compressor does not run even for a second when the the ignition is turned on with the light flashing, and there is no voltage with the light flashing but vag com states that relay J403 is on. There does not seem to be any burnt wiring in any of the wiring looms that are easily visable to me.
Thanks,
Moz.
Thanks for your prompt reply. There is no 12v supply at the compressor connection when the light is flashing, I have swapped relay No6 in the eight relay panel with another one from the car ( number 373 on it) and there does not seem to be any burnt wiring (40 amps would cause a small fire I think) and the fuse is OK. Going out now to detach temp sensor and to test car again.
Best regards,
Moz.
Hi Andy,
I have disconnected the temp sensor but sadly no luck! I can feel valve n111 operating when my assistant turns on the ignition but the compressor does not run at all. Audi SSP 243 shows that the 12v supply goes to the fuse, then relay and then to the compressor. The relay terminals look difficult to get a multimeter to connect to, but I will try to test the continuity of the 12v positive supply to the compressor terminal and test the negative to the car chassis. The car is outside and it is raining, so these tests will have to wait till tomorrow.
The replacement piston ring repair kit was from you, much appreciated!
Kind regards,
Moz.
Moz, any other error lights on in the dash?
make sure you have the correct fuse and relay location.
did it all work ok before you fitted the compressor kit it was just slow?
And you say it worked after the new piston ring was fitted but for how long?
The n111 is part of the compressor it should only open to lower the car or release pressure briefly, it should not click to raise, have you touched any Level sensors? It will open briefly when the compressor stops
Check the compressor plug for corrosion, check the negative ground under the rear bench seat, and the positive from and too that relay
I would aim simple 1st though ive never seen a bad power to the motor yet, 1000's of plugs not fitted but no main power wiring problems.
Answer all Q's above
Regards
Andy
Hi Andy
There are no other warning lights on the dash.
The history is as follows : leaking right rear air bag last year, replaced with arnott bag. Suspension working normally. Ordered replacement piston kit at same time from you. Recently compressor seemed to be a little louder so replaced piston ring. Worked normally for a few days ( 5 or 6). Then wife came to car and found it to be on the stops and it had to be trailered back home. It was set at level one or two at that time. There must be another leak on the system and I will test for it when I get the compressor working.
Today applied seperate battery to the compressor but only when the ignition was on and the light on the dash flashing ( for about one minute), and the car rose up to level one. I repeated this operation and got the car up to level two.
Valve N111 only clicks when ignition turned on and I think that this is just a system test at the start.
I tested the negative to the compressor connection and it is good.
I am having a problem with finding the relay J403. Most manuals and the internet state that it is number 6 on the 8-point relay carrier but this may be only correct for LHD cars. My ElsaWin manual says it is number two on the carrier for RHD cars, but number 6 for LHD cars. It has not got a diagram. Therfore I have not been able to test the continuity of the positive supply from the relay to the compressor. I am thinking that the problem is just with the relay. I have tested all the fuses that are rated 40amps, and all are OK.
None of the connectors look to be corroded.
Regards Moz
Hi Andy,
I have managed to fix the problem. The fuse for the air suspension compressor was blown. This fuse was not in any of the locations other people seemd to have found it in and I have found that this differs between right hand and left hand drive cars. I have attached 3 files below about the difference in the hope that it might help other people with the same problem with right hand drive cars!
Thanks for your help.
Best regards,
Moz.
Attachment 28557Attachment 28558Attachment 28559
Good stuff, knew it had to be simple,
Hopefully that's it working for a while now :)
Best regards
Andy
Hello again, Andy.
The problem has not been fixed afterall - the 40 amp fuse blew again so I decided to take the motor apart. The brushes are OK but one of the magnets is split and rotates in the housing. Has anybody any idea of where I may find a replacement stator? The motor is possibly a standard Lucas one and probably quite common. If not, has anybody got any reconditioned units for purchase?
Best regards,
Moz.
Ive got loads of spare motors, all used but I'm sure we can fix it, is it the outer casing you need with magnets or complete bottom end, PM me for more info.
Best regards
Andy
Andy, do you know if its possible to let air out of springs using vcds somehow, I.e. Open valve on the block?
Thanks.