Exactly like mine.;) you said it, my theory is smashed ;).
OK- new theory tomorrow- good night
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Exactly like mine.;) you said it, my theory is smashed ;).
OK- new theory tomorrow- good night
If anyone is interested, here is a link to a Bosch book I have. They write that the pressure inside the ip should be 8-22bar depending on which pump it is.
Dropbox - BoschDistPump.pdf
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Forgot to answer this, Yes, exept from a few internal changes ( advance solenoid sleeve ++) the pumps are identical.Quote:
Originally Posted by sjordet
Have just put the old girl back together and as expected I didnt find anything suspicious with the pipes or connectors. The return valve have a rather lazy spring so I assume an opening pressure no more than 1-2 bars ?
From here on I,ll say the fuel system is checked out and is not our problem.
What's next ?
Exhaust system I'm afraid ;), when I find time I'll pull it off and check it inch by inch. Am not too fond of washing, but I'm an devil with the angel grinder! So if there are anything suspicious there I'll find it.
@ Matkring
Seems like you have access to a great deal of equipment. If you by any chance have access to one of those diesel strobe lamps, (who could feel the pulse in the injector pipe) It would have been great if you could check if TDC is TDC or if the ECU is fooling us.
Just find the TDC ( using the pin in the crank) and make a " TDC mark" on one of the cam gears
Will do later today :-) http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/14/vu3epumu.jpg
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WOW !! Those are hard to find !! THIS I,m looking forward to see !!! piston nr 3 ( cars right side, rear cyl) are on TDC when the timing pin is used in the crank.Quote:
Originally Posted by Matkring
@ametlib Tools is my passion, and my employer accepts it. We also need many different tools in my profession :-) I'm sorry, I had forgot, but a friend if mine has borrowed my timing tools, so I have to wait until he's done, then this will be my first priority.
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Hi Ametlib - I read most pages of this thread but then skipped to the last page. Did you finally fix the original fault? I have the same issue (A6 C5 2.5 TDI multitronic). I have had the 3rd injector changed (needle point sensor error code) and the MAF.
Regards
Hi,
No, sorry no solution yet. This car is not on top of my priority list for the time beeing, but now and then I'll pull up my sleeves and check what's next on the list, so I'll keep this tread running until I have it sorted out.
Don't expect an easy solution to this one, as Michaelk ( german with the same fault, after wisiting 5 different Bosch and Audi garages) so nicely put it, " Audi ist hilflos"-- in English, -"Audi is helpless"...........
BTW read post 317 and onwards
Chalk up another victim to this issue!
I've just replaced cams/valves/etc/etc after one of the bolts holding the N/S rear cam belt guard worked loose and destroyed the cam pulley.
I had the barking issue before but though it was because the needle lift sensor had failed and my cams were worn.
Well, I've fixed all that and when she's cold, the engine is smooth as silk and pulls well but as soon as it gets up to temperature, BARK!
Thought i'd have a read around before I start figuring out why!
FWIW, mine is a 2002 AKE Allroad BUT the engine is from a 1999 AKE A6. No idea how much of the engine is 1999 but I'll be checking the IP!
The only other thing with mine that none of you guys have mentioned is that sometimes, I'll get a hesitation, followed by the ESP, ABS and suspension level warning lamps and the suspension will drop down to level 2 - I think this may just be another issue unrelated to the barking though.
One of the many useful bits of info in this thread was about the two pumps in the tank. When I primed the IP, just tried to manually power what I thought was the lift pump (according to Elsawin) but no fuel got to the filter. I now realise this was probably the baffle pump, so I'll be checking my lift pump is working as I should have one...
Check your COI figureQuote:
Originally Posted by nedge2k