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The idle speed of my AUM is about 720rpm. If the throttle body was dirty would it be more inclined to idle faster than recommended rpm?
I have and ultrasonic cleaner and would like to try cleaning the throttle body with it, if it's not too involved getting it off the engine.
From your diagram, could you show me where it is. Also, would I need a new gasket for refitting?
Your advice is much valued.
Thanks again.
The throtle body is 27 on item 24 (inlet manifold) and after cleaning will have to be set up.
Thanks for the throttle body locacation. If I take off the throttle body will I need a new gasket or are they reusable?
Also, I have an Autel VAG405 scan tool. Would I be able to reset the throttle to the TB with it or does it need to be taken to a VW service station exclusively, to have the job done?
Does your scan tool have a "Basic Settings Group 04" function?
No it doesn't appear to have that.
On the main menu it's :-
1)VW/AUDI
2)OBDII/EOBD
3)OIL RESET
4)System Setup
What is under group 1?
Thanks Crasher,
Under (1)VW/AUDI is:-
01)Engine
02)Auto Trans
15)Airbags
03)ABS Braked
08)Auto HVAC
09)Cent.Elect
Under 01)Engine:-
1)Read Codes
2)Erase Codes
3)ECU Information
4)Readiness Test
Not sure, in VAG protocol 04 is Basic Settings mode and in this you would set the throttle in Display Group 060.
It looks like my Autel VAG405 is just for reading codes and deleting them.
My local garage have Snap-On equipment and they say they can reset the Throttle body to the Turbo with it. Does this sound like a good option?
Do what? TB to ECU.
What ever you said has to be done after taking off the throttle body/ cleaning it and refitting it.
"the throtle body is 27 on item 24 (inlet manifold) and after cleaning will have to be set up."
The throttle body is adapted to the ECU.
OK that's the one then. Please excuse my incorrect terms, I'm not a technician. What I was trying to establish was:- can the job be done (ie. throttle body adapted to the ECU) successfully using Snap-on equipment and will I need a new gasket after taking off the throttle body?
There are a number of Snap On systems but I think they will all do the TB basic setting. Normally the gasket sticks to the TB and does not need replacing but we always stock one just in case it rips.
I have the gasket now, hopfully the right one, V028 129 748. it has 4 bolt holes in it.
The two error codes( 17245/17705) haven't reappeared since they were deleted a few weeks ago but I expect them to re-emerge via the engine management light any time now.
Since its been near freezing in the mornings lately the engine has played up more. It starts up no problem but dies as soon as you try to pull away. Have to give it some revs to overcome this and as soon as I have driven 100yards or so, he engine is fine again.
Is this related to the error codes does you think?
Do another code read now.
OK not sure if engine should be warm for code reading but this is what I just got with engine cold.
In addition to the two reoccurring codes, 17545, 17705 I got a couple of new ones,17536 and 16955
17545 Bank 1, Learned value of mixture formation (add*) System too rich
Test fuel pressure regulator and holding pressure
Test injected quantity and tightness
Check valve -N80-, Tank Vent Valve
* add = additive means, that the fault is only effective at idle.
17705 Compressor - throttle valve connection – Pressure drop
Check hose connections
17536 Bank1, Learned value of mixture formation (mult*) System too lean
Testing injection valves
Test fuel pressure regulator and holding pressure
Test injected quantity and tightness
Inspect intake system for leaks
Checking the exhaust system for leaks
Check tightness of the secondary air system
Inspect vacuum lines for leaks
* mul = multiplicative means, that the fault is effective over the full speed and load range.
16955 Brake light switch -F Implausible signal
Check brake light switch and brake pedal switch in measured value block, display group 066
Firstly remove and clean the throttle body and reset in in Basic Settings 060. Then I would fit a new genuine VW dealer supplied exchange Air Mass Meter part number 06A 906 461 LX , replace the split hose under the inlet manifold from the T piece breather valve
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...Mbreathers.jpg
(item arrowed in the picture), part number 06A 103 221 BK for a 2003 Golf 4 GTI with an AUM engine and fit a new brake light switch, 1C0 945 511 A RDW.
Thanks for the info ... very helpful.
Not very reliable these VW’s are they…here’s me thinking my problems would be over getting rid of my MK2 with the 2E2 carb. I was looking forward to some trouble free motoring ….WRONG!!!
I think I mentioned previously that the Exchange Hot Film Air Mass Sensor (part# 0986280217 /£77) and breather Hose (part # 06A-103-221BH /£30) was replaced 4 years ago. Maybe theses weren't genuine VW parts. If they were would they need replacing again?
Its knocking 10 years old and has done what, 100K miles? What do you expect?Quote:
Originally Posted by AndySil
If the hose under the manifold is OK then it is going to need a proper leak test using the VAG pressure testing equipment or a smoke testing machine, there are literally dozens of places the air can be leaking from, if it is that. If the AMM was not a genuine VW part (they have a sicker to say so) then fit a genuine one before going any further.
I have a similar problem. I have a 2000 golf gti 2.0 8v APK which is misfiring at low revs. Have changed leads, plugs, coilpack and fuel filter and it seems to have got worse. Any ideas what could be wrong??
I don't know what is, but I know a man who does and I'm sure he'll be in touch with you soon.
It sounds like it could be coil packs. Have you replaced them all?
Best thing to do is have the engine management system analysed and see if any faults come up.
Ye coilpacks been changed. Leads and plugs.
Has a fault code readers plug been waved anywhere in the proximity of the ash tray?
So take it to a garage then is what you are saying. Talk about stating the obvious but never mind. Thanks for your help.
Listen young man, don't come on here asking for help and then be 5hitty about the FREE advice you receive, it will not be tolerated by myself or anyone else in charge on this forum, when you have contributed 25539 more posts you may be able to start throwing your weight around a little. I get the feeling you would rather throw hundreds of pounds of parts at it in the vain hope that it will be fixed. Do you even realise that in some instances you could fix the fault but because you have refused to do a code read and clear the car will still act up? Owning a fault code reader is not the preserve of a professional establishment, anyone can go and buy one for around the same amount of money your pour down your neck each night!
Apologies for being ****** as u say but I wasn't aware that fault code readers were that cheap after going to vw and finding out they charge £59.99 to plug it in. I'm not a fan of these so called specialists in they're field as on more than 1 occasion I have paid extortionate amounts for 1 to tell me that it could be this or that and paying labour costs on top of parts for the problem to still be there. Was hoping that asking for advice on here people who have had a similar sort of fault would point me in the right direction as to where the fault would be. Reason I was sceptical about a fault code reader is that on past cars iv owned the engine management light comes on when there is a fault and mine has not. I have now ordered a fault code reader for less than half of what vw charge and will give that a bash when it comes. Thanks for the advice.
Bit more advice if you don't mind crasher. Have read the fault codes and its coming up with p0300 - random/multiple cylinder misfire detected, p0301 - cyl 1 misfire detected and p1582 -idle adaptation at limit. The latter is the first that shows up and believe that this is hopefully just a matter of removing the throttle body and cleaning it?? Was wondering if you would know if the misfiring faults would be showing up as a result of the idle adaptation fault. Iv only just come back home as I work away so am going to give it a go in the next few days.
On an APK engine I would say that is more than likely a faulty plug, ignition lead or coil pack as these engines are not known for valve burning issues. The idle issue may just require a TB clean but I don't know if you will be able to perform basic settings with the fault code reader you have bought.
Well after all that mate I thort I'd av a bash of putting the old plug n lead back on no 1 cyl and turns out the new plug had a crack in the ceramic so she runs like a dream now lol. She was close to being a bonfire. Thanks for your help.