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After snapping two Tengtools T55 bits I concluded that the head bolts on the Peugeot XUD9TE engine could not physically be torqued to the required specification.
That head replacement was unsucessful; I presumed replacement head was warped and changed the engine in the end.
That's grim.
Yes for alot of things but when it comes to head bolts, no and before you say anything, i have done well over the amount of an average mechanic as people tend to send their customers to me as i quite enjoy doing them and have never had ANY problems or come backs. "Tight Is Tight" and by using hand tools every day you should really know the feel of a tightened bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by phil miller
Sorry, I have to correct myself. On a rover engine, i would ALWAYS torque the new bolts to give them darn crap engines the best chance they have !!!! :-)
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I turned the engine over with the crankshaft pulley. There wasn't a sound, it turned smoothly, I could feel my wrench getting stiffer then loser with no problems. I did this several times.
I would have expected either some form of resistance or sound if the valves where bent.
Am I lucky or doesn't it matter? that is, the engine turning fine by hand is not an indication of NO damage.
If I put the timing belt on to try and turned the engine what should happen if there was valve or some other damage? Misfires, cloncking noise, engine jamming.
Thanks
If it's absolutely bob on I'll eat my hat; but it's worth trying. Worse case scenario is that it'll drop a valve into a cylinder which would probably damage some of the bottom end aswell; but I'd plan for a total engine replacement rather than fixing the old one anyway if this one doesn't work out, so don't think there's a lot to lose in trying.
I'd disconnect the stop solenoid and turn it over on the starter for 30sec or so and see how she is before properly firing her up though.
OK so turning it over by hand and hearing nothing, means nothing.
So if if the engine fires and turns over as it did, no problem?
OK Thanks.
I'd rebuild the head or change the engine before setting off to Moscow in it, otherwise every successful start is a bonus for a 16+ year old car!
If this is only the crank turning with no timing bekt on you have 100% bent or broken valves !! You would want it to hit solid ! If your turning your crank a full cycle and its not hitting a valve then somethings wrong as at least some valves will be in the open position as each of your 4 pistons goes fully up. Its a no brainer really !!!Quote:
Originally Posted by minny
Don't know about a no brainer, your talking to some one who's only ever changed the oil and filter!! Pretty much kill or cure situation here.
But at least I know now.
In principle it looks straight forward enough to do (with right tools and parts). Getting it all timied up and in synch looks the most tricky to me. Doesn't help there being no manual for this car.
Seem to be something where one jobs leading to another.
Just to be clear; did you turn the crankshaft pulley on its own with the timing belt disconnected or the whole lot together?
Being able to turn the crankshaft through complete revolutions on its own with nothing else being turned would indicate that the valves have pretty much been squashed flat.
Turning the whole lot with the belt on should have 4 positive cyclinder compressions per complete revolution (i.e. when the same tooth on the cambelt belt reaches the same place as when you started). It should take a good strong arm action to pull through each compression (unless injectors or glowplugs are removed).
Bent valves will upset one or more of the compressions, so it's worth checking with glowplugs and injectors in place.
A minor hiss on one or more of the compressions can be pretty normal on a high mileage engine; it indicates either worn valve stem seals that aren't the end of the world or the head gasket being on it's way which may be.