A fault code read will give us a clue but not necessarily a solution as it is most likely to be a lambda sensor code due to the poor running but equally you could get a coolant temp sender fault code which would explain the poor idle stability.
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A fault code read will give us a clue but not necessarily a solution as it is most likely to be a lambda sensor code due to the poor running but equally you could get a coolant temp sender fault code which would explain the poor idle stability.
Hi, believe it or not I have a Golf1.8T that has a mis ifre problem. It's been doing it for ages now. It is exactly the same, it miss fires for the first 2 mins of driving and the when the revs settle it's fine just the occasional misfire in low gears. Done loads to try and solve the problem - new cat, new lambda sensors, had to replace a coil pack. Just about given up on it now. If you solve the problem than let me know!!!!:zx11:
Hi, believe it or not I have a Golf1.8T that has a mis ifre problem. It's been doing it for ages now. It is exactly the same, it miss fires for the first 2 mins of driving and the when the revs settle it's fine just the occasional misfire in low gears. Done loads to try and solve the problem - new cat, new lambda sensors, had to replace a coil pack. Just about given up on it now. If you solve the problem than let me know!!!!
Cheers for the diagrams and stuff Crasher. Shame to say that i aint solved the mystery yet! I have checked the fuse that you mentioned but it is fine. I have had a look at the valve behind the black bracket at the front of the block. Would the N249 solenoid valve be the item with the brass plate on it? I believe the item number is 026 906 283 h apg. I looked for obvious damage but none was present. What i did find was that the black bracket that the dipstick and the valve is seated was bent. After looking around the engine bay, it looks like the car has at some time had a front end smash! Could this shed any light?!
Re-brief me on what is happening now and what codes you are getting.
ill try and download the faults 2nite if i can and post em again. cheers
I have not had a chance to check the codes but as i am still driving the car i have noticed today that the turbo seems to make a 'ripple'ing noise when the turbo is spooling down. It has either happened today or has become more apparant. Im assuming that i should be able to hear the turbo spooling down when changing gear but why would it make a noise like this? To put it another way, it sounds like blowing into a slow fan as it is facing you (if you ever have?!?!?) Im thinkin that it should be more of a constant quiet 'whoosh'. Am i wrong? I have not got an atmospheric diverter valve fitted, and have tried changing the standard Bosch one recently. Should i be worried?
You should hear a slight hiss under boost and a small whoosh from a standard DV and that’s about it.
finally got round to it crasher, got mainly the same codes but fewer this time;
17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction : P1200
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System (B2) - Incorrect Flow
or Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected : P0411
16684 - Random Misfire Detected - Any Cylinder
or Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected : P0300 - intermittent
16688 - Cylinder #4 - Misfire Detected
or Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected : P0304 - intermittent
16685 - Cylinder #1 - Misfire Detected
or Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected : P0301 - intermittent
16687 - Cylinder #3 - Misfire Detected
or Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected : P0303 - intermittent
17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Open Circuit : P1548
16686 - Cylinder #2 - Misfire Detected
or Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected : P0302 - intermittent
16705 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Implausible Signal : P0321
Still keeps mentioning about the N249 valve mechanically malfunctioning! i think i have the part number for this; 026 906 283 h apg
is this right? i may have got the wrong part but this was on the brass coloured valve at the front of the engine block (AUM) behind the black pannel that supports the dipstick.
thanks
Sounds to me like a simple case of the small diameter hose from the “T” piece one way valve on the crankcase ventilation pipe to the inlet manifold being split. This can cause all the fault codes shown and a hissing under boost.
is the t piece that you are refering to more of a y shape, one tube leading from the crankcase, another aiming downwards and one aiming to the back end of the engine bay? if so these tubes are the ones that were changed that i mentioned earlier on in a post. i have changed 3 in total, the y shaped tube from the crankcase, the pipe from that aiming downwards and another somewhere that my mate at VW spotted had a slit in it. if these are the pipes that you reffered to then i have already eliminated this as a cause.
on another note, the rippling sound that i refered to before that happens when the turbo spools down seems to be coming from around the air box to the right of the bay. the car hasnt lost performance but im wondering if a valve is failing or something, as it sounds like a turbine cutting a flow of air. its hard to describe and it may not be a problem, i just cant remember it sounding like this...
im going to have to face up to taking it to an independant garage to diagnose. i dont think that VW (in my opinion) are the most clued up on fault finding. kinda rely on Vagcom to point them directly to the problem.
Was it this hose?
ahh no, the one that i replaced was the one to the right of that picture and the one that connects to that, that aims down into the engine bay. ill have a look at the condition of the one you mentioned and get back to ya
as good as i can see this pipe looks good, its possibly the 3rd pipe that was changed as it looks cleaner than the rest. it connects to the same manifold as the throttle body inbetween the 2nd and 3rd cylinders doesnt it (just to clarify). I can see some of the brass looking material from this manifold that the pipe sits on so it might not be seated exactly as it shud be, saying that, it has got a ziptie on it so it should be air tight, it just looks like to could slide over another 5mm. would this cause an intermittent misfire tho?
On mine the pipe looked perfect, only when removed and pressed between my fingers could I see two splits in it.
was you experiencing intermittent misfires? the car performs fine when warm and sometimes when cold.
Hi Shleng, I think, reading through the post you have created, you have already identified and then over looked the problem you have described, the noise you are hearing is commonly known as Turbo Chatter, if you have a look at some of your posts earlier in the thread, you were going to check the Diverter Valve, did you do this ?
All I was experiencing was a slight pulsing under boost, which I still have-somehow I never seem to find the time to fix my own car!
Yeah ive changed the diverter valve, swapped it for a replacement Bosch. There was no way of guaranteing that my other wasnt failing at random times so i changed it. Im going to look into this turbo chatter and see what i find. Thanks for helping.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nutty
from what i can find it looks like some people actually try for this effect by changing to a different diverter valve. i was just worried that my turbo was on its way out or a valve wasnt opening to equalise the pressures at either side of the turbo or something. hmm, anybody got any advice on the removal of the inlet manifold? im thinkin if i remove this, i can chack all of the breathers that im struggling to examine.
The manifold is easy to remove, just order a new head to manifold and TB gasket first.
VW the best place to go for these parts?
Your local VW main dealer.
just to let ya know crasher, i think i have found the culprit for my misfire! i think that it is the coolant temp sensor! i have removed the connector and checked the connections. by doing this, my problem has only occured once in 2 weeks. i have ordered one of these connectors for a tenner so ill replace it to hopefully confirm this!
Extracting the pins and swapping them over is a very delicate process and you need a pin extrcator to do this. If you damage a pin, you are in the poo!
Hi, people keep mentioning Vag-com. Is it possible to get a free version of the software? I keep having to pester my local garage to clear fault codes!!
See forum user Eshrules for a cable.
hi there i had exactly the same problem last year with my golf gti mark4 w reg. i took it everywhere and no one cud solve the problem. after tryin many garages i took it for a service and at the time my car was making a whinnging noise. i asked them to fix it and wen they fixed that problem it also solved my misfiring and erational up and down revs. it turns out that in the sump there is a nozzel which sucks up the oil to go round the engine. some how this had become blocked. after they cleaned it the car performed brilliant up until now. although the garage said this should not of made any difference. now its happened again i dont know wat to think although its been ok for the last 8 months. iv checked everything again and thats my only idea. just wanted to share it with u guys and see wat u think. thanks everyone.
CrasherQuote:
Originally Posted by Crasher
I have the same GOLF Mk4 AUM engine with the two fault codes showing (17545 and 17705).
The symptoms are not too bad. Engine falters a little when cold and maybe lacking a bit of power generally.
(Averages 34-38mph if driven carefully).
Would it be OK to clean the Throttle body with an ultrsonic cleaner to start with?
Thanks for any help.
AndySil
17545 is the fuelling being too rich which can be the tank vent valve, Air mass Meter (most likely culprit) and a failed lambda sensor and 17705 is a throttle body pressure drop which MAY be due to a dirty throttle body but there are many other causes such as air leaks. I have been going through hell with a 2003 Anniversary for the last three weeks, it was in such a mess it is hard to describe but one classic was someone had fitted an aftermarket direct replacement diverter valve but decided to do away with the vacuum operating solenoid system and plumb it straight into the manifold so when it was needed to be opened with a vacuum, it was being forced shut with pressure-nice one! So far we have rebuilt the entire vacuum/boost management control system with three new genuine pipe sets, fitted a new Air Mass Meter, rebuilt the completely wrecked turbo (ingestion damage and oil starvation bearing/seal failure), second hand exhaust manifold to replace the cracked one (all three bolts were lose and the gasket half missing), taken out the Golf 5 FSI spark plugs, reinstated the MAP sensor back into the intercooler and replaced the one tie wrapped and glued into the boost hose, replaced all the crank case ventilation system hoses and pipes, fitted a new N75 valve, ordered a new air cleaner to replace the cone filter which killed the already new genuine AMM and left the SAI system sucking in dirty air, replaced all the missing hoses for the secondary air injection system, cleaned the ditched throttle body, replaced the missing cam cover vacuum reservoir and bracket, removed the sump to replace it (stripped drain thread) and found it full of debris and that the pick up pipe had the tea strainer rammed through plus a few other small jobs such as welding up the exhaust centre bracket and re-attaching the heat shield and we still have to deal with the butchered lambda wiring and broken rear axle mounts. I would love to know who has been working on it.
Thanks for your message Crasher.
I’ve just been checking out the service history and found the following:-
April 2005 Carried out throttle body clean and re-adapt. Tested OK . £68.15
December 2006: Carried out diagnostics, checked all wiring connections, found throttle body faulty, replaced and road tested all OK. £431.62
November 2008: Exchange Hot Film Air Mass Sensor, replace breather hose, specialist and diagnostic labour, fault code read. £199.78
Taking all this into account, any thoughts on what the problem is most likely to be now?
Thanks again,
Check the recirculation valve. First of all make sure it is an original, not an after-market shiny one and make sure when you suck on the diaphragm connection that no air is drawn through.
Thanks for that, I've looked up recirculation valve and the only reference I can find is for deisel engines.
Could you offer the part number please.
My Golf has the AUM engine.
The recirculation (or dump valve as it is erroneously known) is fitted into the large bore rubber turbo intake pipe just after the air mass meter and has a hose coming off to the boost pipe and a small hose to the metal vacuum pipe lines. This is not exactly the correct picture as it is for an ARX engine but is should give you the idea.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d.../ARXengine.jpg
Thanks for the diagram. Not sure if I located the right component from it but the part number I found in that location is 06A129101A VW AUDI 010301. It's not shiny though(black plastic).
Apart from the two fault codes(17545 and 17705) car running pretty much OK this morning with no hesitation when cold. Idle speed is about 720rpm.
I think steve might mean the boost diverter valve 06a 145 710n
http://www.neuspeed.com/06a145710n-diverter-valve.html
The diaphrams go on these and cause weird issues, make sure you get a genuine one as its been uprated a few times and now has a stronger diphram.
the 06a129101a looks like a space ship and conncts to the breather pipes, these rubber hoses split and go soft especially under the inlet manifold.
Thanks for your link to the diverter valve.Much appreciated.
It's a bit confusing with the part being known as dump/diverter/ recirculation valve etc. I can't find an illustration of it on ETKA.
The part I have has an inlet and an outlet (part number 06A129101A VW AUDI 010301)and looks original.
The one you mentioned above (06a 145 710n) has an extra small outlet on the top. Is this the same part and if so, where does the extra outlet get connected to?
Meanwhile my car has been tested by a local respected service centre (not VW dealers specifically) and found the same two fault codes as myself but not able to find anything wrong with the car!!
06A 129 101 A is now 06A 129 101 D and is not the diverter valve, it is the crankcase breather ventilation pressure relief valve.
OK, I found the recirculation diverter valve and the part number is(06A 145 710N) the same one that spud43 quoted. Thanks for that. It is black plastic and not a shiny after market one.
Not sure what do do now, particularly as the mechanic found no fault either. Perhaps it's best to just live with the engine management warning light coming on occasionally, and see if a more obvious symptom develops.
Thanks for your valued opinions.
Being as your throttle body has been on there six years soon it could do with a clean and re-adapt.