Hints & Tips to improve Performance - Audi A6 2.4 Auto 1998 Model

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Originally Posted by evil_skint

Lonky... Yeah Thanks. Tracking is next on my list, this wknd I Hope. When u say " access to laptop ".. do you mean I can buy a lead and software for £15 and diagnose stuff myself ??

Niall, MAF !! Yeah thats the fella. I did read its best to buy a new part rather than try n clean up the existing one. Found one on the Bay for 31 quid... might give it a shot !

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Don't buy one off e-bay. They were probably made using old stock materials from China or something. Buy a genuine one or one from a reputable place such as eurocarparts or GSF. The e-bay ones are known to fix, well nothing.

Before you say, I'm definitely not an anti-e-bayer, I'm at 269 and counting...

Paul

you can buy a lead from e-bay for under £20, and down load the freeware version of VAG-COM from the ross-tech web site - check out item 150240165468 for instance.

You can buy either a serial or USB version dependant on what your laptop has in the way of outputs

Yours will run with the KKL lead, and version 409.1

If you get on with the shareware and want to get more adventurous, then you will need to upgrade to full version which is about $99 or £50

Shareware will read codes and cancel them

As for the tracking Niall76 is right about not bothering with kwickfit, though I paid £26 last time for a laser track. Worth every penny

Lonky, thanks for that info, much appreciated ! I may purchase that lead at approx 8 quid inc postage and give it a shot.

£120 for tracking !!!!! Deffinatly ******** eh !

Thanks both, the weekend = more oily hands I reckon :)

Paul B... yeah ur right mate, i`ll buy a cochure one when I get chance.

Never buy the chinese MAF's on e-bay. They can cause you to think something else is wrong, and end up changing half the sensors before you see sense and buy the pucker part.

I think genuine Audi is not that much to be honest, and it has a warrenty

changes the MAf on my 1.8t for origonal part, cost me £56 and already getting at least 10 mpg more, origonally tried to clean it but ended up breaking it instead!

im in lancaster with registered vagcom if that helps!

I read a couple of posts regarding changing the MAF, and some say that simply changing it is not all you have to do. Changing the maf can have effect on the emisions, anyone know if this is true.

I did call a local supplier this weekend ( My Mate has a trade account with them ) and I can pick up a MAF for £40. Intend to do it next week.

I had similar idle problems and stalling problems with my 2.4v6 (which is plenty fast in the right hands lol i got a 9:53 on the ring with 2 passengers).. have you disconnected the battery recently? I had the same problems after installing a new battery.. the way to solve it is to do a throttle body calibration.. i believe all you have to do is put the keys in the ignition, turn to the position before start (with all dash lights on) and leave it for a minute or two.. then start as normal and see if ur idle is still rough

Rory, thanks for that info. I havent changed my battery recently. With regards the calibration, I will give that a go. Changing the throttle body was also something I read about regarding the idle issues, I didnt however know that it could be re-calibrated in this way.

EDIT : Just for info, I started having a browse for more TBA information and came across this :

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/...Alignment_(TBA)

Anybody else have specific guidlines on best TBA procedure ?

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Originally Posted by lonky

Always keep the box in drive, never put it into N when moving, or you can damage it.

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I've got a new shape Audi A6 2.4, and I regularly pop it into Neutral when heading downhill, or approaching Red Lights / Traffic etc to save on fuel. (The rev counter jumps straight down to about 750rpms).

Does the above rule apply to the new shape as well. and if so, what damage does it do, and how so?