16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) P0322 - 000 - No Signal - 2005 Touran 2.0TDI BKD

SOLVED!!!!!

I did more reading on the internet and found an excellent site that describes the '17036 - Sensor Reference Voltage B P0652 - 000 - Too Low' fault code as I was really wanting to get to the bottom of it. P0652 – Sensor reference voltage B -circuit low – OBD2 Trouble Codes

I studied that info and set about testing all of the wiring to all of the sensors. Everything tested out good. I then managed to find a guy who could get me a 'plug and play' ECU to try, but before going that direction, I bought a replacement MAP sensor. At £15 there was not much lose there. Anyway, it arrived today, so I popped out the old sensor and did some multimeter testing of both the new and old. LKong story short, the old one had way different resistance values between pin 3 and 4 (basically a complete short) than the new one. 'Good' I thought, and fitted this, connected all the other sensors up, turned the ignition on, noted that the flashing glow plug light had gone, then I attempted to start the car. She fired up almost instantly and settled in to a lovely idle at 820rpm. I checked for fault codes and after clearing the old ones was left with just one '18062 - Please check DTC Memory of Instrument Cluster P1654 - 000'. I started and stopped the car a few times and all was again good.

RESULT! Just a shame that VCDS could not have pointed me towards a fault with the MAP sensor, and also amazing how a failed shorted sensor can cause the ECU to give a specific fault for the G28!! Anyway, hopefully this thread will prove invaluable to others.

There are only one two small things to fix now, first is the '18062 - Please check DTC Memory of Instrument Cluster P1654 - 000' fault code. Next is the fact that both coolant fans run at full speed from 10 seconds after the ignition is turned on and for the whole duration that the engine is running. I think that may be due to the 2 following codes that appear from the HVAC: 01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285) 013 - Check DTC Memory AND 00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65) 009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent. Disconnecting the G65 does not stop the fans from running though. Finally the central locking is not working, none of the doors, just the bootlid will lock.

Good to hear and useful info for others.
Bit of a dumb question, why would it need a camshaft speed sensor as well as a crank sensor? Surely any 4 stroke engine will show the cam at 50% of the crank? Unless the cam belt had broken then it's all dead. Or am I missing something???

Well done. Never give up and never give in. [emoji6]

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by FLAPPERJACK76

Well done. Never give up and never give in. [emoji6]

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

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Thanks for the help!

Your welcome.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by skyegtb

SOLVED!!!!!

I did more reading on the internet and found an excellent site that describes the '17036 - Sensor Reference Voltage B P0652 - 000 - Too Low' fault code as I was really wanting to get to the bottom of it. P0652 – Sensor reference voltage B -circuit low – OBD2 Trouble Codes

I studied that info and set about testing all of the wiring to all of the sensors. Everything tested out good. I then managed to find a guy who could get me a 'plug and play' ECU to try, but before going that direction, I bought a replacement MAP sensor. At £15 there was not much lose there. Anyway, it arrived today, so I popped out the old sensor and did some multimeter testing of both the new and old. LKong story short, the old one had way different resistance values between pin 3 and 4 (basically a complete short) than the new one. 'Good' I thought, and fitted this, connected all the other sensors up, turned the ignition on, noted that the flashing glow plug light had gone, then I attempted to start the car. She fired up almost instantly and settled in to a lovely idle at 820rpm. I checked for fault codes and after clearing the old ones was left with just one '18062 - Please check DTC Memory of Instrument Cluster P1654 - 000'. I started and stopped the car a few times and all was again good.

RESULT! Just a shame that VCDS could not have pointed me towards a fault with the MAP sensor, and also amazing how a failed shorted sensor can cause the ECU to give a specific fault for the G28!! Anyway, hopefully this thread will prove invaluable to others.

There are only one two small things to fix now, first is the '18062 - Please check DTC Memory of Instrument Cluster P1654 - 000' fault code. Next is the fact that both coolant fans run at full speed from 10 seconds after the ignition is turned on and for the whole duration that the engine is running. I think that may be due to the 2 following codes that appear from the HVAC: 01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285) 013 - Check DTC Memory AND 00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65) 009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent. Disconnecting the G65 does not stop the fans from running though. Finally the central locking is not working, none of the doors, just the bootlid will lock.

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Just to finish this thread off, I managed to get rid of the remaining error codes as listed at the bottom of my post above simply by re-fitting the bumper and re-connecting the external temp sensor. For some reason, with this sensor disconnected is caused the fault code with the AC, the instrument cluster and also caused both fans to run at full speed! Reconnected now all is perfect.

Hi
My car is wv golf 5 2.0l BKD 2004
I have the same problem and error16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) P0322 - 000 - No Signal - with g sensor 28.
I replaced g28 I checked the wiring up to the ecu and everything is good bat is same error.
all the wiring has been checked and measured three times and everything was fine, but the error is still present.
the car starts very hard and stops at random
I want to change the ecu or MAP sensor ?!

Hello, firstly you should log the readings from the MAP. If they read high at idle (not under boost) then you have the same problem as my MAP sensor had and it should be replaced. The MAP is a cheap part and should be the first thing to replace without question even if you do not test the old one first.

Hello
what values ​​do I have to idle?
if I remove the MAP plug, it should stop causing problems?
Thanks for all.

Hi there. From memory, the value from the MAP sensor should show you a number from 1000 up to approx 2500. It should be around 1000 at idle and as you drive and get in to boost it should raise up to around 2300 at max boost pressure. If this value is static or maxed out at 2500+ then you can almost guarantee the MAP sensor is bad. Removing the plug to the MAP might make a difference but best to remove the MAP and test the resistances between pins.