Golf mk5 boot release fuse?

Hi everyone,

The boot on my 2004 Golf MK5 won't open from the outside (works fine using the emergency release lever inside).

it looks like an electrical issue - the release latch isn't firing when the badge/handle is lifted - i've taken the reat trim away from the inside of the boot lid and the handle and latch both seem ok.

Does anyone know which fuse is used for the boot release mechanism and which panel it would be on?

BTW - the rear wiper and heated rear screen both still work fine.

thanks!

Mike

I don't know what fuse supplies the actuator off the top of my head, but since you've already got the trim off, I'd check for 12Volts on the red wire at the actuator first. If there is 12V there then the fuse is OK.

Regards - Jim.

The rear lid release motor is not fused as such, it is powered by the central convenience system which is itself fused so I would suggest a fault code read of the convenience system and if there are no appropriate codes, check the operation of the rear lid switch in Measuring Blocks and the release motor using Output Tests.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crasher

The rear lid release motor is not fused as such, it is powered by the central convenience system which is itself fused.

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In that case, we can assume that since all the other convenience functions are working correctly, the fuse is OK. I'd still check that your getting the 12V supply to the actuator since it wont work without it. And you've already got the tailgate trim off anyway. You don't need any fancy VW diagnostic equipment to test the actuator. Simply get a length of wire, connect one end to the vehicle body and touch the other end to the brown wire at the actuator. If it moves, it's OK. If not, I think you've just found your problem.

Jim.

The release motor is a permanent earth (brown wire to pin 3 of the four pin connector) and a switched live (red/blue wire at pin 4)

Thanks for the info, Crasher. I must admit to never having tested this circuit on a MK5 Golf. I know, you would never have known if I hadn't said.

So Mike wants to connect one end of his wire to a positive supply then and touch the other end to the red wire at the actuator. If it moves it's good, if not it's faulty. It's the same circuit, just the polarity is reversed.
He can pick up a positive supply at the rear wiper motor. What pin will that be on? I suspect that will be an ignition supply too, so he will need the ign. on to carry out the actuator test.

Jim.

thanks for all this info guys.. i'll check for 12V at the latch this evening and let you know... i've already picked up another latch from a breakers so if the wiring is ok, i can try that too..

so just to clarify - i need to take a 12V positive feed to the red/blue wire at pin4 on the latch actuator - right?

cheers,

Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cmi23

so just to clarify - i need to take a 12V positive feed to the red/blue wire at pin4 on the latch actuator - right?

cheers,

Mike

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Hi Mike.

Yeah, that's right. If the actuator doesn't move then that's your problem. The actuators go faulty quite regularly, although I've never done one on a Mk5 Golf. You should find a 12V supply at the rear wiper motor. I think it's an ignition supply (black/purple wire?) so you will need the ignition on.

Let us know how you get on. If it turns out not to be the actuator maybe we can advise how to check the wiring between the actuator and the convenience ECU. The wires often break in the rubber gaiter between the tailgate and the vehicle body, so that could be your next check if the actuator is OK.

Regards - Jim.

hi guys - i've not yet had a chance to test the actuator on the car but have tried the one i picked-up from a breakers yard and that works..

should have a chance to look at the car this weekend so i'll let you know how i get on..

Thanks again for the advice..

i tested the release actuator as explained by Flash2 and Crasher - it worked! so the problem was elsewhere. Pulled of the rubber covering between the taligate and body (left side when looking from the rear) and one of the wires had been pulled fully apart... a little soldered repair and now everything is working again!

A couple of the other wires were showing signs of wear too - so i've wrapped them all in some insulating tape - hopefully should do the trick..

lucky that only one had broken - most of the wires in there are white.

Thanks for all your help!

Mike