1.9td indirect t4 that couldn't pull the skin off a sausage

ok i apologise if this problem has been discussed already i've spent several hours searching previous threads to no avail
Its a 2000 transporter 1.9 td indirect injection and in the last 18 months ive changed loads of parts and would be happy with it if the mpg wasn't as low as 25 and if you didn't ahave to press the throttle 3 seconds before pulling off just so that it would reach 2500 - 3000 rpm and not stall. Its so bad its actually dangereous at junctions:mad:
i've changed both front wheel bearings, timing belt and water pump inner and outer ball joints, new clutch and recondition rear calipers. i've also run several cans of injector cleaner through and there's no real smoke when accelerating.
so heres the symptoms from cold it takes about 5 seconds or more of turning over if i'm lucky but once its warm it starts perfectly ( yes the heater plugs might need replacing but i'm not going to do that until its running propperly) the most disturbing problem is the complete lack of power below 3000 rpm but once the turbo spools up you do actually feel a little power so that rules the turbo out and lack of black smoke when accelerating makes me think the injectors are ok i dont know about the injector pump timing though. its an ABL engine with 50kw about 67 bhp and no intercooler yet, i want to fix the main problem first, also its very slow to accelerate even when in nuetral.
tomorrow i'm going to bypass the fuel tank and filter and run it directly from a bottle to rule out a blockage in the fuel line and after that i'm going to split the exhaust when i find my home made tool for opening and putting back those lovely spring c clips holding the exhaust together but when thats done i'm left with it being a fuel injection problem injectors pump or timing. :confused:
Any other suggestions are more then welcome as i really dont know how to test if the injector pump is pumping hard enough or if the injectors are breaking at the correct pressure
Also does anyone know if its posssible to fit an lda from a car engine to increase fueling when under boost when i fit the intercooler?? and if so what engines are suitable i know where there is a damaged 1.6td golf injector pump that might do..

Any help would be great, sorry about being so long winded the more facts the less wrong answers

:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
:biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh: :biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh:
Its back to its old sluggish self all 60/70 bhp
after holding the wastegate in the open position with a vice grips and getting my bottom end power back at the cost of the top end I then knew that the problem had something to do with the turbo and not fueling so decided to check the turbo which had no play and was able to spin freely then i decided to blank off the egr (second most anoying invention only to traffic lights) only to discover the problem when i removed the egr valve i saw a small trace of oil on the gasket under it going onto the boost side of the turbo. All it needed was instant gasket and the problem was gone and no egr to foul up my inlet manifold after cleaning it.
now i want more power so has anyone every fitted an lda to the top of the injector pump or does the whole pump need to be changed and to to with that i'm going to fit an intercooler any suggestions on donor ones that fit nicely and where.
any idea on where to find out about water/meth injection ? i hear it helps clean out carbon deposits (can't clean the head propperly without removing it) as well as cooling intake air.

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any idea on where to find out about water/meth injection ? i hear it helps clean out carbon deposits (can't clean the head propperly without removing it) as well as cooling intake air.

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Your not getting water injection and intercooler water cooling mixed up are you?

Water / meth injection is where water or water meth mixture is injected into the engine. Very difficult and normally found on high performance motors. Would take for ever to get set up correctly. You need injectors, holes drilled into your engine, pressure pumps, plumbing and some form of meter control. Alternatively you can inject direct to the intake, but the same problems arise. Def not a project for a 1.9 diesel van - Even if you doubled the power, (And you won't) its still slow :Blush:

However, if you really want to try, heres DIY instructions.
http://users.frii.com/maphill/wi.html. Good luck.

Intercooler water injection as its sometimes called, is not really injection, but where the intercooler is sprayed with water to help cool it down. Pretty simple, where a warm cooler is simply sprayed all over with cold water, to drop the temperature of the air passing through. Obviously limited use, unless you want to carry a 50 gallon drum of water around with you. Subarus and other performance motors often have it fitted, but its very short lived of course. Once the tanks empty, no more cooling!

I know the problems with the 1.9, but I think spending serious money on trying to significantly improve this engine is wasted. As with most tuning, in most vehicles, the easiest, quickest, cheapest way is to get a bigger engine.
Go 170 :biglaugh:

HI Mixmatch,

As I've mentioned elsewhere on the forum - fit an INTERCOOLER. Simple as that. I was nearly dying from embarrassment at my underpowered 2000 transporter 1.9 TD. What a difference the intercooler made!

Cost: £560 supplied and fitted by ALLARD (the famous rallying family) of Gloucester.

Cheers - Bob:beerchug:

are these van really this flat/sluggish/under power? i need a van ans its a toss up between a t4 turbo or a 2.5na transit?

anyone here used them for towing i,l be needed to tow a car and trailer at times so it going to be hard work if it can only just pull its self:confused:

Ok i know its been a while but a lots been fixed on this van since my last post and it definatly runs better now it was only doing 22 mpg on long journeys not sure as of yet but it appears to be doing about 30 mpg now will post actual mpg when i figure it out.
it turned out that i was still loosing boost pressure so off came the inlet manifold (and the exhaust manifold, bolt for egr pipe sheared and had to be drilled out) and when re-assembled with plenty of sealer and left for 24hrs to set i was getting much more power just a little less then a company van i had a 1.9tdi transit 2004.
then i fixed the starter a new one was costing the motor factors 140 euro ex vat so i decided to strip mine and replace the offending bearing at a cost of 4.86 euro inc vat
then it was the heater plugs yes even the hard to get at ones a tip for anyone else is buy the extra long ratchet spanner from halfords 8mm one end 12mm the other its hard but possible.
then it was back to the power issue having discovered from a 1.6 td golf owner that the injector pump has a 2 stage spring fuel restrictor with the first spring cutting in at about 2700rpm and the second at 3500rpm (revs might be a little different can't remember for sure) we researched it and discovered instructions on other forums for a governor mod for a 1.6 td golf/rabbit which involves replacing the weaker spring with washers so that fuel is only restricted at 3500 rpm a much needed improvement for hill climbs and towing as in both cases you need to be at 3500 - 3700 rpm (not a fan of red lining engines) to change up a gear .
thats it for now but at the moment its more drivable but if anyone has any info on positioning an intercooler or what size works best please let me know as i just noticed the bonnet is set up to funnel air to a top mounted IC but i hear they aren't as good.
cheers for now :biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh:

forgot to mention that my egr magically deosn't work now thanks to a metal plate that blocks the exhaust gasses

:D