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Hi all,
I'm helping someone with a few repairs on their VW Polo 2005 TDI 3-door.
One of the problems is the windows are not working. I've tested the switch and there is a permanent live feed on the blue/grey wire, but when I press the buttons and test each one of the other three wires, there is no power going through them with the car running/ignition on.
Does this indicate the switch is faulty or should I start looking at the window motor instead?
This system is computer controlled using the “Central Connivence System”, standard voltage and continuity tests are useless, the only way to proceed is using a diagnostic system such as VCDS.
I have the scan. Just checking through it again and all I can see under Address 9 is
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2 Faults Found:
00896 - Trunk Lock Unit (F256)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01598 - Drive Battery Voltage
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The battery died and apparently the windows stopped working around the same time, but how reliable that statement is I don't know.
I've since replaced the battery but the window problem is still there :)
You need to check the switch inputs from the door switches using measuring blocks.
I have no idea how to do that :)
Do you which module and the blocks numbers?
In the meantime I'll see what Google yields.
I tried to get some feedback from the controller today, but no response
Attachment 38023
There's a couple of resources suggesting a relay and capacitor failure could be the cause, so I'll do the repair and report back.
Pleased to say this is now resolved.
I purchased the relay and capacitor from RS:
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-latching-relays/6995737/
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/alumi...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
To remove the exiting components I bought a solder vacuum:
https://uk.farnell.com/duratool/d01849/desoldering-iron-sucker-40w-uk/dp/2251950
Farnell do sell the relay and capacitor, but they have a 20A version (not 30A like RS).
I don't know if that will make any difference but I had the luxury of being able to split the order on my work accounts.
It's worth mentioning I stripped the motor to clean the contacts and lube the drive.
Like others have reported, the fix didn't work instantly after reassembly; so I locked and unlocked the car with the key, then again with the remote and went back to it an hour later.
I will likely service the passenger side motor too because the drivers side runs great in comparison.
This illustrates the difference between DIY and doing it for a customer, the amount of hours you spent would equal more than a new controller and without warranty or even guarantee of success; nice to see it fixed.