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maccgolf
03-05-2010, 02:29 PM
Hi,
my rear bearing is definately going. Had a look......does anybody know the torque setting for the splined (Torx?) bolt....and do i need any special tools to remove the bearing hub??

Thanks, and safe driving!

bartleaj
06-05-2010, 08:52 AM
You will need a M18 Spline Bit (not Torx) and the torque is 180Nm plus 180 degrees.

maccgolf
21-05-2010, 08:56 PM
Hi,
thankyou for the information. VAG want £220 to replace the bearing. :aargh4: So far spent £7.99 for the M18 bit and £73 for a new bearing. :Blush:

phil miller
21-05-2010, 11:17 PM
do you get a new bolt with the bearing? if not id replace it as 99% of bolts that need to be angled up are stretch bolts, hope this helps mate

maccgolf
22-05-2010, 07:47 AM
Thanks Phil,

The bearing came as a small kit, with a new bolt and cap. Just had to give my chasis number, as there are 2 sizes of bearing listed, either 30mm or 32mm.

Maccgolf.

phil miller
22-05-2010, 08:57 PM
Thanks Phil,

The bearing came as a small kit, with a new bolt and cap. Just had to give my chasis number, as there are 2 sizes of bearing listed, either 30mm or 32mm.

Maccgolf.

ideal mate, hope its not to bad to change

maccgolf
25-05-2010, 09:51 AM
Well had a go yesterday. Stopped when i couldn't get the calliper mount off. You will need an M14 spline for this. Went and bought one. I couldn't budge the thing though, doing the job on my drive, you really need to put the vehicle up in the air to get the purchase. So going to have to get a local garage to replace it for me. :( I'm going to have the same problems when it comes to replacing the discs.

maccgolf.

mbev51
26-05-2010, 09:23 AM
hi
just recently changed all discs and pads on my golf, cannot remember any problems dismantling only with winding back calipers and bleeding. Wheel bearings are often difficult for a diy person to get out/in. Best compromise is to take the hub unit off and take to a garage with a press, they won't change too much.

maccgolf
26-05-2010, 09:38 AM
Hi,
The bearing comes already pressed into the hub, onto which you mount the disc. The calliper mounting bracket needs to come off in order to remove the disc off the hub. I've done the same job on my old Mk4 no problem, i can't get the M14 spline bolt to move at all, it will need to go on a lift to get under the car.
Cheers.

maccgolf
20-08-2010, 05:05 PM
Just to update,

bought a M14 spline bit from ebay for the calliper mount, but it was too long. Cut it to length. You really need to get under the car to get the leverage on the M14's. Took just less than 1 hour to complete.

Maccgolf.

killersanyi
16-12-2012, 10:06 PM
Somebody could post some instructions with pictures about how to change a rear wheel bearing of Golf 5? Thx

maccgolf
17-12-2012, 10:25 AM
Somebody could post some instructions with pictures about how to change a rear wheel bearing of Golf 5? Thx

Can't do pictures, sorry. You definately need the 2 spline bits, M18 and M14 to do the job. You will realy need to get UNDER the car to get the leverage on the bolts too. Apart from that it is simple.

Wheel off..... remove the caliper from the caliper mounting bracket..... remove the caliper mounting bracket with the M14 spline..... then remove the bearing hub with the M18. Replace the hub and do it all in reverse observing the torque setting above on the new bearing bolt.

Good luck... took me about 1 hour but i borrowed a pit to get under the car.

P.S. If your discs/pads are getting low i'd do them at the same time.

killersanyi
17-12-2012, 12:37 PM
Can't do pictures, sorry. You definately need the 2 spline bits, M18 and M14 to do the job. You will realy need to get UNDER the car to get the leverage on the bolts too. Apart from that it is simple.

Wheel off..... remove the caliper from the caliper mounting bracket..... remove the caliper mounting bracket with the M14 spline..... then remove the bearing hub with the M18. Replace the hub and do it all in reverse observing the torque setting above on the new bearing bolt.

Good luck... took me about 1 hour but i borrowed a pit to get under the car.

P.S. If your discs/pads are getting low i'd do them at the same time.

The caliper sustains the pads on the disc, isn't it? And for this one i will need the M14 spline? My affraid is that how i will substract the bearing after i removed the bolt? It comes out easily or i will need to use a hammer? And to fix the new part i will need a press? I heard from somewhere that instead M18 i need M16, is it true? Thank you in advance!

maccgolf
17-12-2012, 12:54 PM
The caliper sustains the pads on the disc, isn't it? And for this one i will need the M14 spline? My affraid is that how i will substract the bearing after i removed the bolt? It comes out easily or i will need to use a hammer? And to fix the new part i will need a press? I heard from somewhere that instead M18 i need M16, is it true? Thank you in advance!

Yes, the caliper holds the pads. The caliper comes off with normal spanners. The caliper mounting bracket needs the M14. The bearing hub is one unit and comes off easily, no hammer! No press... the bearing is already in the hub.

audia4qts
17-12-2012, 06:33 PM
I did the rear bearing on my brother inlaws mk5 and if i remember you dont need to remove the calipper mount you can just about get the disc out without removing it.

rabb5it
05-12-2013, 12:43 PM
Just to help anyone looking for information on this job I have just replaced my Golf Mk5 1.9Tdi rear hubs and I did not need to remove the caliper mount as detailed above and specified in the Haynes manual. So you may be able to omit that step with the M14 spline bit.

rabb5it
17-12-2013, 03:27 PM
I've just replaced the rear wheel hubs without removing the caliper mounts.

Seth Helstrip
08-01-2014, 05:35 PM
I've got a dodgy rear wheel bearing and was thinking about doing this myself (having been quoted £180 by a garage to do it).

Only problem is that I have no access to a pit.

Having not yet taken the wheel off, and looked at it in detail - can someone please advise me whether, if not removing the caliper mount (why make work for yourself!?) - I'd be ok doing this, with the car simply up on a jack?

Also, I've seen huge variation in the bearing kit costs on eBay, from £25 up to £90. Does anyone have an opinion about whether they're much the same as each other?

zollaf
08-01-2014, 05:38 PM
jack ? no axle stands. never work on a car supported on only a jack. if it falls then the car always comes out of it better than you.

Seth Helstrip
08-01-2014, 05:50 PM
Ok, thanks for the tip - so on axle stands, would I be able to do this job, if not removing the caliper mounts?

zollaf
08-01-2014, 06:44 PM
if you can get the disc off without removing the caliper then you can, if not, caliper carrier has to come off. its a complete hub with bearing you change so its just undo the centre nut and swop the hub over. regards price, do you want to do the job again next year ? if so, get the cheapest one. if you want to do it and forget about it, get a proper one. febi, skf, a recognised quality brand. do both sides because if one is gone the other will soon follow.

rabb5it
09-01-2014, 12:11 PM
Seth. Use jack and axle stands/blocks. It may pay to do both sides while you are at it, as the hub/bearing also contains ABS reluctor ring, I did the job to replace a reluctor ring but the side I thought was ok had a rough bearing. Requires M18 spline bit, I bought a 3/4 drive one as I luckily have a 3/4 drive bar -it was needed. 1/2 inch liable to snap as torque 180Nm + 180 degrees. Got a Franklin M18 for 9.15 from Toolbuddy ebay shop. Bearings can be on a 30 or 32mm shaft, I was unable to identify which one on my car from reg/vin, so had to remove it first. Mine was 30mm which strangely, is slightly more expensive than 32mm, bought from ebay shop A TO Z MOTOR SPARES DEWSBURY LTD for 31.90 each - great service, includes bolt, next day tracked delivery. Probably made in the East but looks and works ok. Motor factors charge about 80, dealer 150 or 300 fitted so even if it lasted just 2/3 years, it's worthwhile, as it includes a new reluctor ring which often necessitate a hub renewal for that alone and the job is not difficult. Very carefully remove ABS sensors while they can be tapped out, clean hole, grease/waxoil - worth doing to facilitate a possible future removal. Hope this helps you, just ask anything else.