Capability
23-04-2010, 03:26 PM
How to change the timing belt on a Golf MK4 130 pd (engine code ASZ).
After a lot of umming and arrhing I decided to change the timing belt on my Golf MK4 130 pd (engine code ASZ).
I was told that it would be a pig of a job – and it was. It took me 2 days but I was probably over cautious and was in no hurry – that my excuse…
If anyone else is thinking of doing it then you might want to read about my experiences and observations.
1. Ensure that you remove the stabilizing ‘rod’ between the transmission and the body on the underside of the car – it runs back to front. During the belt change you’ll need to move the engine up and down and you’ll break this ‘rod’ if you don’t remove it.
2. Be warned that if you have A/C it’ll make the job harder as the pipes get in way big time especially when trying to undo the bolts to the inner engine mount.
3. The inner engine mount cannot be removed unless you remove the engine from the car or you remove the engine mount from the gear box end under the air filter which would allow you to move the engine laterally. Because of this engine mount you have to manipulate the old and new belt around the mount – a real knuckle rasper but it can be done with patients and care.
Whilst changing the timing belt and whilst in the general area it is well worth while changing the timing belt tensioner; the water pump; and the auxiliary drivebelt. You’ll also need to collect the coolant or replace with new. Make sure it is the genuine VW silicon based article (pink).
I bought a crankshaft locking tool (Laser tools 3241) which I was told was the right one – it wasn’t – at least it wasn’t right for my engine so don’t get that one for ASZ engines. I have yet to find the right one, so if know what the right one is please let me know for next time. It did fit and lock the crankshaft sprocket but not that well.
I used a Haynes Manual which was pretty good. When it says (on reassembly) make sure the camshaft locking pin (6mm drill bit) fits easily into the camshaft hub it means EASILY; nearly fitting is not good enough as your timing will be out (as I found out).
Oh yes, make sure you use a block of wood between the sump and your jack. You will be pumping the engine up and down like a yo-yo so make sure the wood fits well and won’t budge.
Hope this helps
After a lot of umming and arrhing I decided to change the timing belt on my Golf MK4 130 pd (engine code ASZ).
I was told that it would be a pig of a job – and it was. It took me 2 days but I was probably over cautious and was in no hurry – that my excuse…
If anyone else is thinking of doing it then you might want to read about my experiences and observations.
1. Ensure that you remove the stabilizing ‘rod’ between the transmission and the body on the underside of the car – it runs back to front. During the belt change you’ll need to move the engine up and down and you’ll break this ‘rod’ if you don’t remove it.
2. Be warned that if you have A/C it’ll make the job harder as the pipes get in way big time especially when trying to undo the bolts to the inner engine mount.
3. The inner engine mount cannot be removed unless you remove the engine from the car or you remove the engine mount from the gear box end under the air filter which would allow you to move the engine laterally. Because of this engine mount you have to manipulate the old and new belt around the mount – a real knuckle rasper but it can be done with patients and care.
Whilst changing the timing belt and whilst in the general area it is well worth while changing the timing belt tensioner; the water pump; and the auxiliary drivebelt. You’ll also need to collect the coolant or replace with new. Make sure it is the genuine VW silicon based article (pink).
I bought a crankshaft locking tool (Laser tools 3241) which I was told was the right one – it wasn’t – at least it wasn’t right for my engine so don’t get that one for ASZ engines. I have yet to find the right one, so if know what the right one is please let me know for next time. It did fit and lock the crankshaft sprocket but not that well.
I used a Haynes Manual which was pretty good. When it says (on reassembly) make sure the camshaft locking pin (6mm drill bit) fits easily into the camshaft hub it means EASILY; nearly fitting is not good enough as your timing will be out (as I found out).
Oh yes, make sure you use a block of wood between the sump and your jack. You will be pumping the engine up and down like a yo-yo so make sure the wood fits well and won’t budge.
Hope this helps