Crankshaft sensor

[lawser]

Just spent 2 hours waiting on the AA :zx11:.....2.6E Coupe started hesitating, came to a standstill & wouldn't start, turned over no problem though but no spark....Bloke from the AA reckoned crankshaft sensor pooped itself :(
Anyone know where to find on the 2.6 auto, he wasn't sure & i can't find any reference anywhere ?

[kenney]

What is the engine code?

[lawser]

Engine number begins ABC

[scotty33]

Hi

There is a crankshaft position sensor and an engine speed sensor mounted alongside the flywheel on manual cars (left hand side of the block, I think one is actually on the gearbox?). These work alongside the camshaft position sensor. All three must be healthy for the car to start, but I believe when the engine is started it can continue to run if one of them fails.

Same system as this:

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/20vtime.html

See Camshaft sensor G40, and Engine speed sensor G28:

http://www.12v.org/engine/index.php?section=cl&view=rear

It might help if you retrieve fault codes:

http://www.12v.org/maintenance/dtc.php?mil=no

[Jonnovision]

Hi mate - I have a 2.0E 8v so very different beasts (used to have a 2.6 though :( ), anyhow mine (the 2.0E 8v) had an intermittant start issue - it was the Hall sender on the distributor (on mine there is a electronic plug on the dizzy) - I gave this a wiggle one day and it started (having previously cranked, but nothing etc) - recently had the rocker gasket done, so the mechanic took the plug off, cleaned it and sprayed with "stuff" for a better contact - hasnt played up again recently. Worth a check, if its similar setup on the 2.6E Distributor.

As Scotty rightly points out - these sensors all contribute either actively or passively - so its a series of analysis to work out whats playing up.

Good luck - let us know how you get on with it :beerchug:

[lawser]

Thanks for the replies folks, as for the engine continuing to run...Well if it is the crankshaft sensor, i'm not so sure because the car was running fine and then ground to a halt.
It does mention in the ref that scott33 posted that " if the reference sensor fails while the engine is running, the system will use the #1 cylinder signal that was originally used when the engine was first started to allow the engine to keep running" if that's the crankshaft sensor it's talking about...I'm confused :confused:
Anyone else want to shed some light ?

[scotty33]

as far as I know, the V6 shares the same crankshaft position (reference) sensors and Engine speed sensors (counts passing flywheel teeth) as the 5 cyl 20v cars. The V6 has a 'proper' camshaft position sensor in place of the 20v hall sender in the distributor.
A 20v will continue to run if the hall sender fails after the engine has started, it will also continue to run if the crankshaft position sensor fails. I'm not so sure about the speed sensor. I na any event, all 3 sensors must be healthy and timed correctly for the car to fire in the first place. Maybe the V6 is the same as the 20v in this respect?
The 4 cyl cars only have the hall sender in the distributor, so if this fails the engine dies.

Best advice is to read the fault codes, whatever is stopping it running should be logged.
The code reader is easier to make and use if a 1.2watt dash bulb is used instead of led and resistor, no need to get the led polarity right...
Or get hold of a Vag com user an a 2 x 2 adaptor lead which is needed for our 'older' cars?

[lawser]

Am i missing something, is there anything i have to remove to find the crank sensor, is it easier looking from topside or underneath ? :1zhelp:

[lawser]

Ok think i've found it :D.....though looks like a bitch of a job to replace :zx11:
Think i'm going to have to let the experts at it :aargh4:

[scotty33]

Did the recovery guy run a fault code check? If not his diagnosis is just a guess.
As it says in the link, the crank ref sensor should not kill a running engine. It may not be the cause of this fault?

[lawser]

Thanks for the advice, looks as though it may be the fuel pump after all that !
Now...... how much is a fuel pump ?

[scotty33]

Hi,

Not sure on price, GSF Eurocarparts etc should sell them. You may find the replacement pump is not the same size as the original, if so an appropriate adapter may be needed. It is fitted in the top of the tank, so the boot liner needs to come out along with the metal 'tank protector'

I would check the relay first, if the relay fails, the fuel pump won't run. Fuel pumps often get noisy before they fail, even then, they run for ages making the noise before they eventually fail.
Could also be the ignition switch failing maybe?

Both cheaper fixes and possibly more likely?

[lawser]

Now that you mention it, the pump has been pretty vocal for a while !
Blonde moment :aargh4:, it's at the garage now anyway, they've diagnosed the pump & are quite happy to let me source it but they'll get a quote from Audi/VW for comparison,
:beerchug:

[lawser]

Right new fuel pump in & back on the road, but now i seem to have noisy tappets...Could this just be dirty oil ?
Before the fuel pump change she purred like a cat :confused: