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Keithuk
05-02-2010, 02:05 PM
Ok guys.

I know its early and I shouldn't need it on a new car but I'm an old scout and I like to be prepared.

Now at work we use Crypton ProScan (http://www.crypton-uk.com/diagnostics.asp) diagnostic equipment. Under the normal system checks Volkswagen isn't listed for anything. It has an EOBD / OBD II option and VW's are listed in there.

Now I've search eBay and there are many types available as well as full scanners. I have a Vista laptop and most of the software only works on 95 to XP. There are plenty of OBD USB cables showing different types and numbers, some come with the software DVD. I'm assuming its going to be 409.1. Some only show Golfs up to 2004.

This morning I bought ElsaWin 7.0 along with ETKA 7 of eBay. I downloaded 3.6 a while ago but it obviously doesn't cover newer models. I've also downloaded ProScan (http://www.myscantool.com/) and PCMSCAN (http://www.palmerperformance.com/products/pcmscan/index.php).

Now I need the USB to OBD socket test lead. eBay show quite a few again but can anyone recommend a particular USB lead with good software. Some leads come with software but I'm not sure which is the best.

Any suggestions will be greatfully accepted. ;)

Edit: Typo.

dieselduncmk6
05-02-2010, 07:09 PM
Hi Keith,

Sorry I can;t advise (and this might be a hi-jack) but am I correct in thinking ELSA or ETKA are the diagramatical breakdown of the cars into section that show part numbers and descriptions etc (as the dealers bring up)?

I would like to know some part numbers for my car ,and compare GT to GTD, so if this is the source I'll' go looking on the bay for this.

Cheerio,
Dunc.

Keithuk
06-02-2010, 03:23 PM
am I correct in thinking ELSA or ETKA are the diagramatical breakdown of the cars into section that show part numbers and descriptions etc (as the dealers bring up)?

Yes Dunc the ElsaWin and ETKA are parts manuals on DVD's for Audi, Seat, Skoda and VW models.

What I'm looking for now is info on the OBD II system. ;)

shark_90
06-02-2010, 04:46 PM
You need a CAN lead, your best bet is a Ross-Tech HEX+CAN lead for around £250.

Keithuk
06-02-2010, 05:38 PM
You need a CAN lead, your best bet is a Ross-Tech HEX+CAN lead for around £250.
What just for a lead? You can get full plugin scanners for less that that. ;)

http://www.scantool.net/

http://www.google.co.uk/products?hl=en&q=obd2+scan+tool&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=JJltS9SiJJT40wTN1fndBA&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CCkQrQQwAg

Issac Hunt
06-02-2010, 08:51 PM
What just for a lead? You can get full plugin scanners for less that that. ;)



They cost less because they'll do less. You asked for advice and you got it. VCDS is THE best bit of diagnostic gear for VAG group cars IMO.

£250 is the cable cost, the software you get for free from their website.

Keithuk
07-02-2010, 12:00 AM
Ok thanks for the advice Issac. ;)

Keithuk
07-02-2010, 11:56 PM
What do you recon of these OBD2's that can remap the ECU for you?

OBD 1 OBD 2 CAR DIAGNOSTIC SOFTWARE DVD OBD 1 & 2 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OBD-1-OBD-2-CAR-DIAGNOSTIC-SOFTWARE-DVD-OBD-1-2_W0QQitemZ280450512574QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Diagn ostic_Tools_Equipment?hash=item414c2736be)

OBD 1 OBD2 Car Diagnostic ECU Chip Tuning Software (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OBD-1-I-OBD2-II-CAR-DIAGNOSTIC-ECU-CHIP-TUNING-SOFTWARE_W0QQitemZ170442497812QQcmdZViewItemQQptZU K_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment?hash=item27af2a1f14) ;)

Typ 5K
24-02-2010, 03:46 PM
Apologies if this is a silly question, but where is the OBD socket on the Golf VI?

Keithuk
25-02-2010, 12:08 AM
Apologies if this is a silly question, but where is the OBD socket on the Golf VI?
Drivers side follow the dash facia right down and its on the far right side just under the dash a purple 16 pin socket.
__________________________________________________ _____________________________________________

It was half term at work last week so I had a bit of time to check things out. I plugged our Crypton ProScan in to see what readings it would show. The menu shows 9 items.

1) Live Diagnostic Data
2) Freeze Frame Data
3) Diagnotics Trouble Codes
4) Clear Diagnostic Info
5) O2 Sensor Monitoring
6) Non-Cont. Monitoring Systems
7) Cont. Monitoring Systems
8) Ctrl On-Board System
9) Vehicle Information

Now not all option show anything as it cover all EOBD II petrol and diesel. But I had it on Live Diagnostic Data and it showed most readings.

MIL Status - Off
#of Emmisions-Related DTC - 0
Calc. Load Valve - 27.1%
Engine Coolant Temp. - 53 Deg C (I hadn't had it running long
MAP - 96 kpa
Engine RPM Hi Res - 780rpm
Vehicle Speed Lo Res - 0 Km/h
IAT - 14 deg C
MAF Air Flow Rate - 6.33 gr/s
Absolute TP1 - 78.8%
O2 Sensor Location - 00000001
OBD State Encoded - EOBD
Km Traveled with MIL On - 0 Km
Fuel Pressure (Gauge) - 26330 Kpa
Equival Ratio Lamba B151 - 0.210
O2 Sensor Voltage B131 - 0.000 v

Now the 9) Vehicle Information showed

E8: WVWZZZ1KZAW267666 VIN Number
E8: 09L906022LC
E8: B8739546

I'm not sure what these second two number are or mean.

I saw the fuel pressure so I put a few revs on and it went up. I revved it up some more and it would only rev to 2500 and that was full throttle. I thought s**t its upset something on my system. I disconnected everything and started it up again and it would still only rev to 2500. I drove it out the workshop and down the car park and it reved to 4000 easy.

Another day I had it in and gave it an oil spray underneath, I will waxoil under the wings when it dries up a bit more. You have to remove the plastic floor panels on both sides so you can get oil behind. There is an insulated aluminium shield cover all parts of the exhaust system front to back with grip clips so those weren’t easy to remove without braking them so that part was left. I coated all the exhaust mounting thread with my own special compound, thats the parts I can get too. No its not Copper slip its Graphite mixed with engine oil to make it a paste.

My father used to work in foundries and that what they used on threaded components when they get hot and cold. My father used to have a VW Camper 1968 and he was always putting new exhaust systems on it. So he decided to get a stainless steel one so it would virtually last the van out.

After my father died I needed another motor so I ran the Camper for a few years and I need to change the exhaust again because they aren't all stainless some parts are ordinary mild steel. The flange nuts on the cylinder head were all rust they had been on there that long. I had to hammer smaller sockets on so it had some grip. Guess what they all came of quite easily, so you won't beat a Graphite paste mixture on exhaust threads.

Anyway sorry to bore you guys and sorry to extend Typ 5K's question. ;)