Tailgate Won't Close (Passat Estate)

[me1onhead]

Hi guys, I went to work this morning. retrieved some items from the luggage area and subsequently was unable to close the boot. Thankfully my car is secure at my place of work so no immediate security issue. However, I have spent my whole lunch break trying to correct the problem. I notice that the remote has no effect to the central locking pump located inside the tailgate panels - in fact no noise or movement from the locking mechanism at all. I'm guessing that the solenoid has jammed the mech in the open position. :mad:
Has anyone else had similar problems?
Can someone please tell me where the tailgate solenoid is located?
Any quick fix before I go to bed this evening would be most appreciated.
Thanks all.

(I don't know how I'd managed without this site!!)

[snapdragon]

Does the rear washer work? I have heard that a pipe can pop off (especially in cold weather) and empty fluid into the lock electronics underneath. What happens when you turn the key in the tailgate hole to the right of the numberplate lights?

[martin1810]

Try closing the lock against a screwdriver so that you can see what is happening. If it won't grip the screwdriver you may have to take off the trim to have a look.

[me1onhead]

I've had the panel off already. The receiver latch wont lock in (click shut) against the striker - its just springs back open. I have now disconnected the cable at the solenoid so that the tailgate can be closed tight and operated with the door key.
I have also ran a circuit tester across the pins on the connector plug that powers the solenoid. The bulb does not light up when I press the boot opening button on the remote control.
All the other doors operate fine.
No water (or even damp) underneath carpets in footwells.
I've sprayed some water displacer on the control unit plugs and pins.
Now running out of ideas :aargh4:

I can't believe I'm the only person who has had this problem.

[veedub76]

Sounds like a new boot micro switch is needed. Had the self same problem on a MK4 TDI 110 golf and the pipe came off the back washer soaked the switch and knackered the boot lock. Only solution was to get a new one or a second hand one from a scrapper. I opted for the new one. Then did a proper job of keeping the hose on the washer bottle etc with jubilee clips.

[me1onhead]

Yeah, my hose came off the washer jet too.....
Hmm.....Cheers!

[Joto]

I've had the panel off already. The receiver latch wont lock in (click shut) against the striker - its just springs back open.


I'm guessing that the solenoid has jammed the mech in the open position. :mad:


I had this prob some time back turned out to be the solenoid. Its not expensive to replace (£15-20 maybe).

[me1onhead]

Just to let anyone else who experiences the same problem know what the outcome was: After much head-scratching and teeth-sucking it eventually turned out to be the solenoid/door lock motor. It cost me 23 quid (with VAT) to replace.
A word of warning though - Do not re-attach the braided wire connecting cable prior to re-fitting the solenoid, because no matter how you try, the damned motor WILL NOT go back into the door space with it attached. You just have to struggle to connect it AFTER it bolted back into place. :o

[Joto]

told you so;)

[me1onhead]

Indeed you did Joto....
Thanks to you and other for coming to my rescue. This forum is so bloody handy. :approve:

[Joto]

Thanks to you and other for coming to my rescue. This forum is so bloody handy.


I whole-heartedly agree. I've learned more about my car here on this forum and saved a fortune by the advice given here.

[Tarmina]

Just had the same problem. Getting the tailgate trim off is a test of nerves isn't it! :DI have ordered a new solenoid .
When the new one is fitted and working I will open the old one and see if it would have been repairable

[AtomFreak]

Hi, I seem to have a similar issue, only when I press the lock release switch under the hatch lid the solonoid seems to be going constantly, did yours do the same or was it just dead.

[Tarmina]

Mine was just dead most of the time It usually refused to unlock or even flash the indicators but eventually stuck in the unlock position rendering the car unusable, Replacing the solenoid unit (it's actually a motor inside not a true solenoid) was 100% cure. Works like a dream now

[AtomFreak]

Mine was just dead most of the time It usually refused to unlock or even flash the indicators but eventually stuck in the unlock position rendering the car unusable, Replacing the solenoid unit (it's actually a motor inside not a true solenoid) was 100% cure. Works like a dream now

Thanks Tarmina, I will give that a go as its not too expensive, cheers again.

[justinpayne]

32355Hello guys! It seems I have the same problem! To be 100% sure it is this electric motor, could you verify that this electric motor should automatically extend straight away? (after every retraction). Because mine does not, but it extends when I give it 12V with the opposite voltage (switch around minus and plus). So therefor I am wondering if the lock is not giving the correct signal to some electrical device that should answer by sending this el-motor the opposite voltage to extend..

I hope that this device should automatically extend, because then I have found the fault, and only need to replace this el-motor..! Very grateful for any feedback

[justinpayne]

I see now it should automatically extend straight after it has retracted. It has an internal spring which should make this happen. Problem was that mine will every 1 out of 10 times not automatically extend without giving it a knock.. Have opened it up without finding the reason for this, so have ordered a new one..