View Full Version : EGR valve 2.0tdi
hi guys, my 2006 passat 2.0 tdi 140 is pulling up a DTC for the EGR valve (insufficient flow) so i reckon its time to get it out and get cleaning. my question is has anyone done it on the 2.0 tdi engine, just looking for advice on the removal or is it much of a job? any help appriciated. cheers
martin1810
19-01-2010, 01:51 PM
Before you do anything. Check the vacuum pipes carefully. Also try sucking on the egr actuator pipe. If you have strong lungs you should be able to suck and move the flap inside. When you stop you should hear it spring back.
Before you do anything. Check the vacuum pipes carefully. Also try sucking on the egr actuator pipe. If you have strong lungs you should be able to suck and move the flap inside. When you stop you should hear it spring back.
oh there's no problem with the flap opening and closing, it has not got that bad yet. i just stumbled across the dtc when i was fiddling around with the diagnostics . its gotten to the point where its showing a dtc but not enough to cause an engine management light so i assume there's just enough crap in there to be a problem. i'll get it out and give her a clean, the car has covered 65,000 miles without it ever been done so i reckon its time to get it sorted
Tariq Malik
14-03-2010, 11:00 PM
Hi Nig
I am having engine management light and the diagnostics are saying intake motor flap problem. Do you reckon cleaning egr valve will solve the problem? or would I need a new valve?
How did you clean your egr valve, the third screw (big one) underneath is difficult to open, any suggestion?
Thanx
martin1810
15-03-2010, 12:29 PM
Does yor engine shudder when you turn off. The flap motor valve fault is often the antishudder flap stuck. Usually means you need to replace the whole EGR assembly.
Tariq Malik
15-03-2010, 11:10 PM
Does yor engine shudder when you turn off. The flap motor valve fault is often the antishudder flap stuck. Usually means you need to replace the whole EGR assembly.
Hi Martin
No, the engine doesn't shudder at all. Drive wise car is absolutely fine and smooth.
Its only when I try to push it hard all of a sudden e.g., on a roundabout or at traffic lights signal the car goes into safety mode i.e., it responds to accelator at first but then after a knock it looses its power and then I can't bring the rpm above 2500. In that situation I have to pull over, switch off the engine, wait for 5 minutes and start again and the car is fine :confused:
Any suggestions!:1zhelp:
martin1810
16-03-2010, 06:24 PM
I would get a vag-com code read done and then post the actual codes on here. It is going into limp mode and probably needs a new egr assembly, but I would want to see the codes first.
Tariq Malik
16-03-2010, 09:34 PM
Hi Martin
Thanx for your message, there are total 9 codes:mad:
19557 - P3101 - 009
Intake Flap Motor - V157
Open circuit/short circuit to ground
Intermitent
19558 - P3102 - 006
Intake Flap Motor - V157
No signal
Intermitent
17075 - P0691 - 007
Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit
Low
Intermitent
17055, 56, 57 & 58 - P0671, 72, 73 & 74
Cylinder 1, 2, 3 & 4 Glow Plug Circuit
Intermitent
17678 - P1270 - 006
Unit injector solenoid valve - cylinder 4-N243
Value above upper control limit
Intermitent
and the last one
16618 - P0234 006
Turbo/Super Charger Overboost Condition
Intermitent
-----
I am more concerned about intake flap motor, unit injector and turbo/super charger faults.
For glow plugs I will either have the glow plugs or fuel injectors loom replaced which hopefully fix that fault.
Could you please help / guide me how to fix those issues. Going to a mechanic would be my last option as financially I am struggling at the moment!
Regards
Malik
martin1810
17-03-2010, 10:18 AM
It is likely that the only one that is a problem is the turbo charger "overboost". You should get the faults cleared, drive the car until it drops into limp, read the codes again....BUT don't switch it off between clearing codes and rereading codes. The intake flap and fan code are probably the same fault. You may have a faulty injector but I would ignore that for now and concentrate on the turbo fault, which I think is your main problem. There is a very good chance it is caused by sticking turbo vanes. One way to try to clear this is to go for a long high speed run, assuming it will stay on boost and not drop into limp mode.
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