Alternator Clutch Pulley

[alphamike583]

Hey,
I've self diagnosed from this forum that my alternator clutch pulley needs replacing. Basically on full lock there is a very high pitched squeaking and it sounds like it is coming from the alternator. The belt also jumps around a bit as does the tensioner pulley.
I think from reading the forum's that this is the only way to diagnose it for definite without removing the alternator from the car.

So to replace it, it seems that the alternator is held on by two bolts and removing them seems quite easy, but I've read of people removing the front bumper to get to it which doesn't seem necessary. Obviously you need a spline tool to remove the clutch pulley. I would also replace the belt as it's looking quite worn.

I'm trying to find out if anybody has a how to guide or knows of any one anywhere on the net, or whether anybody can tell me of their experience of doing it

[Camb-Tech]

Done this on my A6 1.9tdi which is what i'm guessing you have.

I put the bumper into the service position to do it though.

If you think you can remove the belt ok without removing the bumper then give it a try.

Just be aware that the pulley is a sod to get off and having it still bolted to the engine will help you.

I take it you have the special tool for the pulley nut?

Be aware that it has to be undone clockwise. Believe me, i found out the hard way. I sheard the shaft off the alternator trying to undo mine. Had to buy a new alternator, on a sunday afternoon as well.

Putting the front of the car into the service position is not too bad at all, you don't have to disconnect any pipes at all, there designed with enough movment in them to give you a good 6";).

[jsnmac]

Just make sure you replace the pully with a genuine part as i replaced mine with a cheaper one and still had problems with vibrations in the car until i had to replace it again with a genuine one.

[alphamike583]

Right, finally got roud to doing this. It took me two days purely because I couldn't undo the pulley! It was a nightmare. I had to put the car back because I needed to use it.
So what I did was to put the bumper into the service position. That was very easy and there are lots of sites describing how to do this. This then gave enough space to get at the pulley. I brought the sealey tool for removing the clutch pulley, but it snapped in the alternator! So I removed the alternator. To do this though you have to remove the fan using a allen bolt whilst holding the fan in place. You can get special tools to hold it but all I used was an alley key resting against the alternator. I was then able to remove both altenator bolts and take it off.
With the alternator off I took it to a VW garage (as it was just down the road from me) and the nice chap in there used just the spline tool on a air gun and it whizzed straight off. He then put the replacement pulley on. I bung him a note for his help. So my advice here is to save your money, don't buy the tool, just pop into a VAG workshop and they'll do it. Make sure though that you go straight into the workshop and speak to a mechanic opposed to the service desk!

So new pully on, car back together and it is so much better. Squeaking has gone although you can hear it faintly if you keep full lock on.

I brought the pulley from GSF for £50 and it's fine

[Braveheart1981]

I managed to do mine without removing the bumper or the fan but did remove most of the skin from my knuckles. lol

I suspect the noise you hear when you hold it at full lock is actually the power steering pump rather than the alternator pulley. Nothing to worry about just don't make a habit of holding the full lock on for any length of time.

[Props Forward]

I need to get this done too. Does anyone know if there are any remifications if it is not done? Does the pulley eventuslly seize?

[SAiLO]

I need to get this done too. Does anyone know if there are any remifications if it is not done? Does the pulley eventuslly seize?
+1

[Crasher]

The pulley is already seized. What will happen is that the belt tensioner will fail and fall to bits and the belt can then be drawn into the cam belt area where it gets wrapped up in the belt and the cam belt fails causing lots of damage.

[Doctle Odd]

You don't have to put the lock carrier in the service position. Just take the tension off the belt with a long 15mm spanner or adjustable wrench, here is my home made version, 17943 and slip the belt off the pulley.
Loosen the 2 bolts holding the alternator, there is a cutout on the cooling fan that allows the bolt next the engine to be withdrawn into the slot in the cooling fan enough to remove the alternator. Note the alternator lifts out when the inner bolt is in the fan slot you dont need to completely remove the bolt
.17944



When its off an airgun is handy to spin off the holding on the pulley bolt otherwise a T50 bit will hold the shaft while you remove the bolt. By the way to hold the fan pulley use an old torx here are some photos. the torx wont bend it fits securely


17946



1794717948

it took me a lot longer to figure out how to upload photos than to do the job, hope this helps someone

[Huntsman2]

You don't have to put the lock carrier in the service position. Just take the tension off the belt with a long 15mm spanner or adjustable wrench, here is my home made version, 17943 and slip the belt off the pulley.
Loosen the 2 bolts holding the alternator, there is a cutout on the cooling fan that allows the bolt next the engine to be withdrawn into the slot in the cooling fan enough to remove the alternator. Note the alternator lifts out when the inner bolt is in the fan slot you dont need to completely remove the bolt
.17944



When its off an airgun is handy to spin off the holding on the pulley bolt otherwise a T50 bit will hold the shaft while you remove the bolt. By the way to hold the fan pulley use an old torx here are some photos. the torx wont bend it fits securely


17946



1794717948

it took me a lot longer to figure out how to upload photos than to do the job, hope this helps someone

Hi, Nice work.
I now know how to get the alternator off :)

Will the process you describe work on a Golf MK5.

I can manage locking the tensioner ok.

I thought I needed a hollow tool that attached to the splines of the clutch and a socket to undo a recessed nut - that I cannot see while the alternator is on the car - and a puller to remove the clutch pulley.

[Doctle Odd]

Golf engine is transverse so easier to get the alternator off. You need a special tool like this Alternator Clutch Free Wheel Pulley Removal Tool 33 Spline VW Audi Ford Peugeot | eBay (http://www.ebay.ie/itm/ALTERNATOR-CLUTCH-FREE-WHEEL-PULLEY-REMOVAL-TOOL-33-SPLINE-VW-AUDI-FORD-PEUGEOT-/170986724556?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27cf9a5ccc)

[Huntsman2]

Has anyone any experience of buying parts from a none VW dealer?
I've seen a clutch pulley at half the VW dealer price. The supplier says the part is OEM.
I would post the link but that may break forum rules.

I would appreciate your advice.

[Huntsman2]

Golf engine is transverse so easier to get the alternator off. You need a special tool like this Alternator Clutch Free Wheel Pulley Removal Tool 33 Spline VW Audi Ford Peugeot | eBay (http://www.ebay.ie/itm/ALTERNATOR-CLUTCH-FREE-WHEEL-PULLEY-REMOVAL-TOOL-33-SPLINE-VW-AUDI-FORD-PEUGEOT-/170986724556?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27cf9a5ccc)
Nice price thanks.

Could I get away with a T bar with a 6 face socket and hitting the T bar and with lump hammer - have done that in the past to mimic a air-gun - ?

Am I correct in thinking that spline bolt should undone Clockwise - not the normal anti clockwise to remove a bolt?

Just realized that I'm not sure how to lock the alternator when I want to torque up the new pulley unless it is like the example above.

[Doctle Odd]

You need a T50 torx to hold the centre then turn the tool

[nevo]

It all depends on whether you hold the pulley and turn the shaft or visa versa,to understand which way to turn, imagine a nut and bolt with the nut facing you,if you hold the nut steady you turn the bolt clockwise to undo,if you hold the bolt steady you turn the nut anti clockwise to undo.

[Huntsman2]

It all depends on whether you hold the pulley and turn the shaft or visa versa,to understand which way to turn, imagine a nut and bolt with the nut facing you,if you hold the nut steady you turn the bolt clockwise to undo,if you hold the bolt steady you turn the nut anti clockwise to undo.
So it is the confusion as to which is the nut, not that the alternator has some opposite thread to counteract direction that the belt travels. I asked the question because many post talk about accidentally tightening the assembly when they try to remove the pulley.

[Doctle Odd]

No confusion really, hold the central spindle with a torx and use the tool on the pulley nut and turn the nut anti-clockwise. It's very tight and if you're unsure your local friendly indie would spin it off and put the new one on with his gun.

[nevo]

If you use a rattle gun you will have to hold the nut (the large one) stick the splined one through the centre of the nut and turn clockwise,(with the alternator mounted in a vice with the pulley facing you)as I've said it depends which one you hold and which one you turn.ps make sure you torque it up correctly,and not with the gun.

[Huntsman2]

ps make sure you torque it up correctly,and not with the gun.
What is the correct torque?
I cannot find a reference to the correct torque in the Haynes manual.

[nevo]

Good question,80 nm seems to ring a bell,but I'm not sure,anyway it should tell you in the box when you get the pulley,see if anyone else can come up with it.If you're stuck you can tighten without using a torque wrench,just use your common sense,the reason I said don't use the gun is it can screw up the internals.

[Doctle Odd]

It's not overly tight remember the cam pulley has a lot more riding on it and IIRC it's 40 nm. You do get the "feel" for it

[Crasher]

Nah, nowt wrong with a good quick rattle of the 1/2 inch...

Now being absolutely correct, with the alternator firmly but gently clamped to prevent damage or injury, one would use ones recently calibrated Snap On 1/2" drive torque wrench with the 8 mm hex or TORX T50 key through the middle of the 3400 spline tool whilst counter-holding the pulley using said adapter and a suitable ring spanner and turning the alternator shaft anticlockwise to tighten to a torque of 80 of Mr Newton’s meters.

That is if I was being pedantic and condescending, which isn't like me at all....;)

[Doctle Odd]

I bet you could get it to within 3 nm without a torque wrench!

[Crasher]

I have a Snap On torque thingy that goes down to some ridiculous figure that I could reach by blowing on it, God knows what you would use it for but it came in a nice red box.

Is AEA a wheeze?

[Doctle Odd]

I have a humble Teng wrenchie :notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy :notworthy

[nevo]

Interesting crasher,the last one I fitted it definitely said do not fit with gun,perhaps its protecting their rearend,its not everyone who's got snap on gear.

[Crasher]

I find that sometimes they will not come off without a rattle but to be fair I don't re-fit them with it.

[Huntsman2]

Nah, nowt wrong with a good quick rattle of the 1/2 inch...

Now being absolutely correct, with the alternator firmly but gently clamped to prevent damage or injury, one would use ones recently calibrated Snap On 1/2" drive torque wrench with the 8 mm hex or TORX T50 key through the middle of the 3400 spline tool whilst counter-holding the pulley using said adapter and a suitable ring spanner and turning the alternator shaft anticlockwise to tighten to a torque of 80 of Mr Newton’s meters.

That is if I was being pedantic and condescending, which isn't like me at all....;)
Now I have the correct pulley (I ordered the 5 grove one in error) with 6 groves, the box contains an instruction sheet that says 85Nm.
This pulley says it is made in China as does the box.
The pulley as well as saying China it has INA marked in the front black ring.

I just need a fine day to fit it, now I have all the information I need thanks to you guys.

[Huntsman2]

I have now fitted the new alternator pulley and on a short test run, the chirping noise has gone.

The belt tensioner still shakes about. Not sure, if it is exactly the same amount of shake as before though.

Removing the pulley was a real struggle with the alternator on the car. The amount of force needed to move 85Nm was more than I expected. Because the splined removal nut means you must use an open or ring spanner I was not strong enough to move a spanner less than a foot long. In the end, I just had room to use a 2-foot pipe wrench (I hate to use such gorilla tools) ; however the wrench and a T bar with a 2 foot steel pipe on it, produced a load crack and a moment of panic thinking something had shattered. The old pulley was free!

The new clutch pulley (that had slight friction in free wheel) was toque wrenched up from 50Nm gradually towards the stated torque of 85Nm. Unfortunately the 10mm T50 splined socket shattered moving from 60Nm to 70Nm leaving the splined end stuck in. I must have put some side load on the socket :(

Cannot remember if the belt travels to tighten the pulley?

I think I should be ok with 65Nm?

Therefore, I consider the job done, but I do not have that satisfied feeling that I have done a good job. If the pulley is ever faulty again, I will have to buy an exchange alternator and pulley :(


Note:- nothing needs to be remove as access is ok.
The fuel filter (cylinder with all the fuel pipes coming out of the top) can be just moved up and away whilst still attached.
The alternator belt can easily be rethreaded.
The belt tensioner can be parked using an open-ended spanner from engine bay.

[Doctle Odd]

Take the remains of the broken tool back to where you got it. Obviously crap as it broke with such a low load on it, job done but just recheck the torque for peace of mind

[Huntsman2]

job done but just recheck the torque for peace of mind
I would if I could; the darn thing is lodged in :(

[Doctle Odd]

Try a pick and a magnet you might have to "adjust" it's position with a hammer

[nevo]

Its probably well stuck in there,if you cant get it out short of changing the alt.I would risk it as it is its over 60Nm and the direction of rotation encourages tightening but its your call.try turning lock to lock and if its quiet you've sorted the the darn thing.

[Huntsman2]

I'm starting to hope I missed the torque wrench click and it broke at a higher torque.

[rhencullen1989]

Hi, just to add I also broke the spline tool off in my alternator whilst changing the pulley, I tapped it the opposite way from tightening with a hammer and a centre punch on the broken piece and then used a magnet to pull it out....although if you left it in there I doubt it will go anywhere as there is a plastic cap on the end.