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caldirun
30-11-2009, 08:15 PM
I have had a slight rumble from fns bearing for about a year and lately it has changed into a constant background noise. I decided to change the bearing and did a few searches and posts, the general consensus was its a bug*** (expensive tools, take the hub carrier to a garage, soak the joints with penetrant for a few days!).
I have now changed the wheel bearing and it was a straight-forward job with no hassle.
Remove the wheel centre boss and put an allen key into the stretch bolt socket, support the key on a jack or axle stand then get long (at least 3ft) tube and slacken the bolt.
Jack up and remove the wheel, caliper, disk shield, wheel sensor (spray inside seal then use an adjustable spanner and rock it gently to crack the joint then ease out while rocking slightly), then remove the stretch bolt.
Take off the engine and gearbox under-covers and the driveshaft cover then remove the 6 torx screws on the inner driveshaft flange. The driveshaft can now be removed by lifting above the inner flange and pulling the spline from the hub (see photo 491)
To remove the hub I used a knife-edged bearing remover (needed later to remove the outboard inner race) and the wheel bolts to jack it out (see photo 493)
The next stage is to remove the bearing outer race from the hub carrier, this was done using a rose bush installing and removing kit I bought off Ebay (about £25, needed for a job on a Vectra I have) and a bit of tube to clear the bearing outer race (measure your new bearing, the tube i.d. needs to be slightly bigger than the bearing o.d. and slightly wider than the bearing).
The knife-edged bearing remover was used to remove the inner race using the wheel bolts again (see photo 497) the wheel bolts need a chamfer on the first thread to stop them burring up.
Clean the hub carrier and use the kit plus 2 steel disks slightly smaller than the bearing o.d. to draw the new bearing in (see photo 500). Use the kit to draw the hub back into the bearing (see photo 501) making sure you are pulling on the inner of the bearing (so you don't pop the inboard inner race out).
Put all parts back on, tighten stretch bolt as best you can then with wheel fitted and on the ground torque it up (Haynes gives M14 bolt stage 1, 85 Ibft, stage 2, 180 degrees. M16 bolt stage 1, 140 Ibft, stage 2, 180 degrees
This method worked for my Passat, 2002 1.9tdi 100bhp AVB with 5 ratio box and it will work for the drivers side (may need to unwind the steering rack trackrod adjuster to remove the driveshaft as its tighter this side, just leave the locknut at the set position and tracking will stay the same when you refit).
Although I used a kit I had already bought, an M12 or M16 X 300mm length of all-thread and suitable disks would do the same job, the knife-edged puller is a must, hire, borrow or buy it.
When fitting bearings take great care to fit them square, they will pull-in easily then, if they pitch over you will have problems.http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g14/caldirun/th_P1000491.jpghttp://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g14/caldirun/th_P1000493.jpghttp://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g14/caldirun/th_P1000497.jpghttp://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g14/caldirun/th_P1000500.jpghttp://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g14/caldirun/th_P1000501.jpg

creedxup
04-12-2009, 02:03 PM
Thanks for the write up, it's nice to know the driveshaft can be removed without disconnecting the hub.

saintsman
04-12-2009, 08:08 PM
Did it cure the rumbling? Iv'e had a rumbling noise for well over a year and 17,000 miles, had the nr side wheel bearing changed..........no difference!
:confused:

caldirun
06-12-2009, 10:10 AM
Did it cure the rumbling? Iv'e had a rumbling noise for well over a year and 17,000 miles, had the nr side wheel bearing changed..........no difference!
:confused:
No