Audi A3 Stealth Sub install

[Macsub]

Just thought I'd post some info on the custom MDF sub enclosures I've been working on. I've been building these for a number of years for the old shape A3 and have just completed the 8P chassis version. The transformation to the sound from the stock system is incredible with this upgrade. Full clean punchy bass and clearer sound from the cabin speakers as well as they are no longer handling any low frequencies, and no loss of trunk space. The enclosure is custom built from 18mm MDF to replace the stock tupperware sub and houses the phenomenal JL Audio 6.5" sub. This is then powered by an Alpine V12 300wrms amp hidden behind the rear speaker panel. The amp is fed from the stock wiring via a custom made adapter (so no wiring has to be chopped). Let me know if you want more info.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/dizzythedog/AMSS8Linsitu.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/dizzythedog/AMSS8Linsitu.jpg

Further info, customer reviews and the installation manual can be found here:
http://www.dizzythedog.com/index.php?f=data_audi_a3_stealth_sub&a=0

[krisstewart10]

Could you please tell me what Autoleads cable I require for an Audi S3 2000 with non Bose Concert setup? Currently my rear speakers and sub are not working although it has the original stereo installed. I think it did have an aftermarket HU before I purchased. Any ideas why it is not working at the moment?

Do you install the stealth sub and amp? I'm in Glasgow and would be interested.

Kris

[Macsub]

You don't need an adapter, just the Euro HU removal keys. Pull the HU and check the multicoloured (or black) 20 pin mini ISO connector is plugged into the top socket on the HU. If it is then also check the remote on hasn't been butchered, the little switch symbol circled in this diagram:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/dizzythedog/symphonyII_pincopy.jpg

Bear in mind the connector might have been butchered, or just not plugged in at all. If all looks well then also check the red sub plug in the rear left cubbyhole in the boot, ensure this is plugged into the tupperware sub. While your there check you have a tupperware sub as I have seen cases when they've been removed completely. It should look like this (the one on the right):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/dizzythedog/OEMSubs.jpg

The amp inside the tupperware sub "powers" both the sub and the rear speakers so if it's missing or not plugged in then you'll lose the rears as well as the sub. If all looks well at this end then you need to get a multimeter or 12v testing screwdriver and check the sub is getting both the perm live and the remote on trigger from the HU. The pinouts on that connector are:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/dizzythedog/A3subloompinouts.jpg
Let me know what you find.
Cheers, Andy

[krisstewart10]

Thanks for your help. I actually have an Alpine HU to put in, what cable would be the correct one the 401 or 404?

I'll let you know what I find when I take the HU out. Regards Kris

[Macsub]

401 is the speaker input option (not recommended)
404 is the RCA input option, which takes a clean signal from the Alpine's rear pre-outs and then feeds it to the Audi amp. You'll find the rears and sub are very overpowered by the Alpine's internal amp powering the fronts, so you'll have to fade to rear quite a bit to balance the sound as the Audi rear amp s only 2 x 20w peak. Far better to rewire the rears directly to the HU and install a proper sub.