Audi A3 (53 plate) 2.0 TDi Emission problem

[csducks]

Please help

Car: Audi A3 2.0 TDi. Problem i have is the ESP light came on, it was on but only for a short while, then the ECM ie the emission light came on, and stayed on, and now if i drive over say 50 mph it cuts my power, unable to drive at normal speed, or acceleration. now ive just got it back from garage, as someone drove into back of me, could it be related, or is this a new problem? How do i rectify it?

Optional Information:
2003 Audi A3 2.0 TDi

Already Tried:
I have not tried anything yet, im no mechanic but once i know how to rectify it ill do it. I simply dont know where to start, apart from taking it back to garage who fixed it previously from the crash. I have noticed they seem tohave put too much oil in the engine, could this be the problem??? Also i dont really want to pay someone hundreds of pounds and get taken for a ride, and especially ripped off if its something pretty easy which i can fix myself with new parts.

thankyou for your time

a more in depth description of the problem.

The light is not flashing, its constant.
in regards to driving there is no power, it feels like a 750cc engine in there, accelaration is very slow, took me amost 20 seconds to get upto 38 mph earlier today, had no choice had to drive back home. and thats the same in every gear, very slow accelerating, lack of power, and top speed around 55mph - 65 mph. although i havnt exactly been out to test to get a exact technical explanation, just what i have taken from a 30 mile journey earlier today. theres is no smoke coming out of exaust, well no more than what i can see normally, and there is no problem with control, or any sound out of anything ordinary coming from engine, oh not sure if its important, the first 3-5 mile of the journey, although the light was on constantly the drive was fine it excellarated normally up until i got to about 70mph in 5th then it lost power, and thats when i noticed a difference, and its been like that since, about a hour ago.

thanks

kind regards

[kite]

Sound like its going into limp mode.
Does the power return when switched off then on again.
A fault code read with vagcom would help find the problem.
Look in the vagcom section for a member in your area.

[Crasher]

What is your engine code (BKD?) and model/year number, wauzzz8(L or P)z(3 or 4)xxxxxx ?

[csducks]

Update

Its been around 4 hours since i parked, I have just taken it for a drive, of about 1 mile and although the light is on it seems fine.

Although i imagine if i drive over alonger period the same would happen.

Its been mentioned that it may be limp mode.

Can any one comment on this???

[csducks]

oh sorry i feel right daft now, its in the window right..


its

WAUZZZ8P64A113595

Audi A3 2.0 TDi 2 door

[Crasher]

It is a 2004 model registered on the 5/01/2004 and has the BKD engine. A fault code read will probably show a manifold flap and cooling fan error. If you put the A/C on to low, I don’t think the cooling fans will come on. If that is the case, check fuse S8 which is behind the relay 458. If it is blown, you will need a new manifold flap unit. Ignore the green arrow, this is for somthing else.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/1Kfuseboxpic.jpg

[csducks]

the red 10 amp fuse..

ive had a look and it doesnt look like its blown(although apart from it appearing black at one side) i wouldnt know what to look for.

Also when i take it out, while the ignition is on there is a very low constant mid-high pitched buzzing, really got to listen to hear it though, and when i took that fuse out it stopped?????

not sure how to do the low power on A/C thing

[Crasher]

OK, my theory is wrong I think but you have made a boo boo now which I should have warned you about. NEVER take a fuse out with the ignition on, now you WILL have a manifold flap and cooling fan error code and you will have no way of knowing if it is genuine. You now need to have the codes cleared and drive the car again, wait for the fault to re-occur and have the codes read again.

[csducks]

well thanks allot, my fault i should have known bnetter, but yeah would have been good to know that information before.

so now i have no choice but to take to garage.

[csducks]

Apologies, i know you were just trying to help, and it is appreciated, it seems my lack of knowledge isnt helping matters.

So now what choices do i have,
Is it possible to download the program to my laptop and run the test myself, or is it only in a garage where it can be checked?

From experience, if it is the correct problem, and once it gets re set is still shows the same problem as youve explained, how much am i looking at paying to get this fixed, and or would it be an easy thing for me to change myself with the new part?

[Crasher]

You can download a very basic version of VAG-COM to use with a cable bought from various sources for around £20 and then register the software with Ross Tech for $99 which makes it much more useable.

[csducks]

thank you, ive downloaded 805 release from there website.
so thats sorted. But been looking at cables and see some of them dont work with A3's, any advice on where i can get one which is definitely compatable.

website, or shop i dont mind whichever?

thanks again

[Crasher]

To run VCDS (which is what you have downloaded) you MUST have a legal and registered Ross Tech approved cable, these are available from companies such as Ilexa and cost £220 + VAT for the Hex CAN USB which will work on anything post 94.

http://www.ilexa.co.uk/acatalog/vagcom.html (http://www.ilexa.co.uk/acatalog/vagcom.html)

If you want to use a cheap fleaBay cable you can only run VAG-COM 409 and even the only after registering it will you be able to make much use of it.

[csducks]

thanks allot, thats a great help, been looking at the websitwe and nearly bought the wrong one earlier..

its certainy a learning curv.

[RickT]

I have noticed they seem tohave put too much oil in the engine, could this be the problem???


Whats the level like now?

Rick