Audi Coupe '93 - Where can I get some tarty bits and get the gauges checked?

[wildman]

Hi all,

I'm new to all this Audi Coupe stuff but have just bought a nice white 1993 2.3E 10V example. I'm really pleased with it but have a few questions.

Firstly, where is the best place to get lots of nice/subtle tarty bits, such as clear indicators for the front skirts and smoked side indicators for example. I could also do with a nice steering wheel as the 4 spoke one my car has is a bit thin and bus-like.

Also, as the gauges seem to be irratic at the best of times, where can someone recommend I go for a electrics check up (e.g. currently the rev counter and water temp gauge don't work! The fuel gauge seems to have a life of its own too!)

Cheers,

Adam

[zollaf]

hello and welcome. firstly your guages. take your dash out and touch up the dry joints. youll need to strip the dash down to do it and allow and hour or so. clear indicators and the like come up on ebay. ive just got some nice clear led repeaters fpr my coupe from a german seller. you can get other stuff like grilles as well. german companies tend to cover the 80 coupe better than any here. if you look on the net there are a lot of nicely modded examples around.

[wildman]

Hi there,

Thanks for the reply. I'll have a look around on eBay for the indicator parts etc.

I do have another newbie question though. How do I "touch up the dry joints?" Is it something I need a soldering iron for? Am I better taking it to a vehicle electrician or is it something that looks pretty logical when the dash is removed?

Cheers,

Adam

[zollaf]

basically, on the dash panel cicuit board, there are several soldered joints that can crack with age,and prevent things from working. the main issue is the coltage reg for the temp guage. dry joints are easy to spot as you can often see a ring around the joint. to resolder you place tip of iron onto the joint and flow a little new solder onto the joint,whilst also melting the old solder.

[andrewaudi]

Hi there,

Thanks for the reply. I'll have a look around on eBay for the indicator parts etc.

I do have another newbie question though. How do I "touch up the dry joints?" Is it something I need a soldering iron for? Am I better taking it to a vehicle electrician or is it something that looks pretty logical when the dash is removed?

Cheers,

Adam

What I did with my temp gauge was just pop it out, spray a little wd40 on the terminals and stick it back together, worked a treat after that. Before it was either reading nothing, or something at random, really annoying...

[wildman]

Hey,

Thanks for the input guys. Has anybody posted a guide as to how to do this replacement, complete with pictures? Also, is it easier/safer to just get a new PCB from eBay or something?

A couple of centre console bulbs have also blown (e.g. heater stuff) or are on the blink. Is it best to order these from Audi or are they available from Halfords? or is it eBay again?! =)

Sorry for probably really newbie questions!

Adam

[zollaf]

pull the three knobs off. they will come with a good yank. this reveals two screws. undo these and theres your bulbs. easily available standard type. take one in with you to match it to. the dash is very easy to do. i will try to post some pics.

[wildman]

Bulbs done - thanks for the advice on that one! =)

Another question is, how do I get to the bulbs that light up the driver's side electric windows and mirrors controls - a couple of the bulbs have blown!

It looks like I need a long and thin screwdriver and go in from underneath the door's grab handle. If so is it a phillips or flat head?

BTW, I have a voltage regulator on order from VAG Parts which should hopefully sort some of my gauge problems.

I still love the fact that a a 1993 car still gets so many looks; some bloke nearly walked into a lamp post earlier looking at it and mine's not even half as good condition as some of the ones I've seen on this site! Result!

[andrewaudi]

I still love the fact that a a 1993 car still gets so many looks; some bloke nearly walked into a lamp post earlier looking at it and mine's not even half as good condition as some of the ones I've seen on this site! Result!

My favourite quote in my 94 'bag of s**t' car was with the roof down, pulling into a petrol station, hearing someone in the background say "look at you with your f**in big flashy car". The car was worth less than 2 grand! The cabrio's really have a nice timeless look. The coupe's aren't too bad either, as long as they are kept tidy, seen far too many bangers on the road that look terrible.

Stick up some photos!

[wildman]

I agree - it's a great slab of 90's metal that somehow worked!

I've seen a few average ones driving around too but I'd like to think mine's not too bad. Just improving a couple of minor points and I then hope to post some before and after pictures. =)

[zollaf]

best car ever made. galvanised so wont rust, and classic timeless looks.
the bulbs for the mirror switch? remove the door internal handle, using a long 4mm allen key. there are 3 little holes to go through in the handle. they are there,trust me. remove the one at the back and loosen the other two and the handle pulls off. the bulbs are soldered onto the pcb and you have to open the switch to gain access. you will need two 12v grain of wheat bulbs, as used in models,scalextrix etc, available from maplins etc.
at this stage you van also get to the electric window bulbs, but as mine both work.....

[wildman]

I've just found the whole unit for £4 + P&P so, provided the bulbs all work, will go for that. I don't trust my soldering skills with bulbs that small! =o

My 3 spoke steering wheel arrived today which looks really nice and I also fitted some S2 clear indicators for the bumper yesterday!

Saturday sees the voltage regulator fitment and then me trying to work out why the water temperature warning light seems to flash up, but only when I'm turning left and accelerating slightly! :confused: I've checked the rad reservoir and it seems to be full enough. The pipes from that to the rad also seem to have water in them (well, they're not easily squeezable anyway). The engine also never smells hot and the oil temp is always normal or below. Hmmm!

Will keep you posted. I'd just like to say thank you again though for the excellent knowledge on this site and the willingness to help! Cheers! :beerchug:

[wildman]

D'oh! :Blush2:

The rad reservoir was below minimum so that'll explain the water temperature light coming on; that problem's now sorted!

I fitted a new voltage regulator but unfortunately the temperature gauge still doesn't work and neither does the rev counter. I'm having the dash out again at the weekend so will check the solder joints. Does anybody have some picture instructions (or just written will do) to get to the PCB? I've got the dials stripped back to what I think is the final stage before the PCB access but I was losing the light (I had to use the car in the morning) and couldn't see an easy access point anyway.