Turbo not working no boost

[obews]

Hello all this is my first post.
I own a VW 02 T4 CARAVELLE TDi 102 bhp ACV engine.
So far I have replaced all the vacuum pipes,checked the wastegate actuator -ok - and renewed the N75 Boost control valve.
Bought Ross Tech Vag com recently and found 4 faults -

17964 Charge pressure control neg. deviation P1556-35-10 -- intermittent
17849
17564
17569 Manifold temp. sensor (G72) open or short to plus P1161-35-10 intermittent

Can anyone explain these faults or advise anything else to try - missing my turbo!
THANKS OLWYN

[Moose man]

Hello.

Possible MAP sensor.

[obews]

Hello and thanks for the reply,

I'm no mechanic but am willing to try anything to get the turbo back !
Havn't heard of a MAP sensor before so could you enlighten me please .
Thanks Olwyn.

[Moose man]

Hello.
After making a note of the codes did you clear the fault code memory and drive the vehicle again?? Some of the codes could be old ones and they might send you up the garden path with the diagnosis. Try that first and see what 'fresh' codes are stored. It's best not to just start replacing parts, that usually works out very expensive!!!!!!

[obews]

Thanks again for replying, I just tried to clear the faults but it won't let me .
Going to give Ross Tech a buzz to find out how to clear them and I'll get back in touch.
Olwyn.

[obews]

Have managed to clear the old codes today and took it a spin - plugged it back in and just 1 fault now -

17964 CHARGE PRESSURE NEG. DEVIATION P1556-35-00

Any ideas on where and what to try next please !

[Moose man]

Does your diagnostic equipment allow you to do actuater tests? If it does you can check the operation of the boost actuater system. While carrying out the test, with the vehicle stationery!!!, you can be visually inspecting the turbo waste gate rod to make sure its moving. Check and double check all the hoses to make sure you haven't missed one with a split, it only takes one small leak to drop the vacuum enough to cause a problem. It's a fail safe system so if there is not enough vacuum to operate the system properly the waste gate will stay in the no boost position, safe mode.
Come back with your findings.

[obews]

Hello,
I have checked the actuator with the missus revving the engine - no movement! but you can move the arm by hand.
I have been told that the wastegate opens with pressure and there's none at the pipe.
I'll check the pipes again and see if the software can do an actuator test. Thanks Olwyn.

[Moose man]

Hello.
There should be a vacuum at the pipe that leads to the waste gate/variable vain actuator. As soon as the engine is started the arm should move as the vacuum is applied. To control the boost pressure the vacuum is switched on and off very quickly by the boost pressure solonoid which in turn is controlled by the ECU. If the arm isn't moving at all when the engine is started it means the variable vain is in the no boost condition. You won't be able to generate enough load on the engine by revving it stationery to require the ECU to control turbo boost, so you wouldn't get the waste gate to work even if the system was working correctly. You need to find out why there is no vacuum at the pipe.
Don't give up!!!!

[obews]

Dear Moose man can't thank you enough for the interest !
As you can tell I don't know what I'm doing but will try. I will try to get a vacuum gauge today and try to see if the wastegate actuator moves on startup !
I now know why fault 17569 manifold temp. sensor was there before - started the van while the intercooler was out and that I assume would have logged the fault.
Speak again later thanks Olwyn.

[obews]

Well put my 1 hand on the wastegate arm and the other on the arm of the EGR valve - nothing at the wastegate but a slight movement at the EGR - took the top pipe off the N75 just to see and plenty of vacuum to keep my finger on - don't know which pipe the boost comes from though!
No vacuum gauge at shops in town so if needed will have to order one.
Olwyn.

[Moose man]

Hello.
It is marked on the end of the boost pressure solonoid which pipe goes to which side. It is VERY important not to get these pipes around the wrong way, very easy to do, as the system won't work.
Going back to the beginning, was any other work being carried out on the engine prior to the lack of turbo boost?? Or did you just notice lack of boost one day?? The lack of vacuum at the waste gate actuator seems to be the problem.

[obews]

Hello again, It's been like this ever since I bought it - I had a 96 2.4 caravelle before so didn't think much about the go until a wee while later.
I have had it in the garage and been fitting curtains and leisure battery etc. so I havn't driven it very much.
There is nothing that I have done under the bonnet !
I was told before that my wastegate actuator might not be working so I took it off and sent it to an engineering comp. and they told me this wastegate is pressure activated not vacuum,when I put it back on I connected the compressor to the wastegate pipe and it operated easily.
That's about all I know.
Olwyn.

[Moose man]

Hello.
Right then, lets start again!! We need to establish whether you have a variable vain turbo or a waste gate turbo. The boost pressure is controlled in different ways and they are operated differently, one by pressure and one by vacuum.
Trace the pipe that goes from the turbo actuator to the boost solonoid. Then, trace the pipe that comes from the other side of the solonoid and tell me where it goes. If it goes to the inlet manifold it has a waste gate, if it goes to the vacuum pump, or is linked into it, it is a variable vain.

[obews]

Hello again , pipes,pipes and more pipes !
From my N75 I have 3 pipes - top pipe is tee'd into a pipe that goes into large dia. vacuum pipe the other pipe goes to the bottom connection of the intake manifold changeover valve, next pipe goes to a circular disc with metal nipple on the side of the EGR valve , pipe at the rear goes to a small plastic filter.
The other connection on the intake manifold flap changeover valve goes to a plastic nipple with connecting rod on the top of the EGR.
Next is the N18 exhaust gas recirculation valve - top pipe goes to a metal nipple at the air outlet to intercooler hose on the turbo, next 1 down goes to the wastegate and finally the last pipe goes to a plastic nipple a bout 3 inches away from the turbo pipe on the air intake hose .
I hope you can make sense of it and I hope my description is correct !
Thanks Olwyn.

[Moose man]

Hello.
The more I read your last post the more I think the system is piped incorrectly. The EGR valve control solonoid shouldn't have any pipes going to the waste gate. Check the pipes very carefully. As mentioned previously, the solonoids are marked VAC and OUT. The only pipe that both solonoids should share is the vacuum feed one. Can you get a diagram of the pipe lay out? I could go through it on a post but it would be very long!! If not, I might be able to. Is this a PD engine??

[obews]

Hi again, I have managed to find another 52 plate 2.5 TDi with the intercooler and have checked the pipes - my pipes are on the same way as his and it's running ok.
I have no idea what to try now ! PD engine ??? It's a 2.5 102 bhp ACV engine if that helps
If there was a broken wire at 1 of the solenoids would that show up as a fault ? - Which pipe does the boost come from ?
Olwyn.

[DubDick]

Hi obews

I was reading the history on this post and shooting - Nooo!
It is a pressure based system. The turbo is held on with the wastegate spring, this pulls the wastegate closed. As the flow increases the back pressure will try to push the wastegate open but a tiny amount of vacuum from the turbo inlet it allowed into the actuator to help keep it closed. When the system needs to reduce boost pressure it's allows the pressure from the inlet manifold to feed back to the actuator which pushes the wategate open and bleeds off pressure, reducing boost.

If you disconnect the actuator pipe then your turbo will be largly unregulated and you should get almost full boost. I don't think this is dangerous as the wastegate spring will float at a certain point but at low revs you will get high boost so it's not good to leave it like this. Also the engine management will trip into limp mode but at least you'll know your turbo is good.
What good be the probelm is the turbo wastegate washer - this blocks the wastegate hole when closed but can become broken.

I'll attach some pictures to help.

Simplied turbo drawing
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f107/Dickpix/N75.jpg

As used on the T4

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f107/Dickpix/Turbo1.jpg

Wastegate, this is the washer or plug inside the turbo that could be broken on yours.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f107/Dickpix/c9ab_12.jpg

Not saying that this is the problem and if so I think it's new turbo time but it is something else to think about.
Cheers
Rich.

[Moose man]

Thats cleared a few things up!! A picture says a thousand words. Its one reason I was asking was it variable vain or waste gate type turbo. I have also seen the waste gate flap/washer missing once, but it was on a 1.8T petrol. Let us know how you get on.

[DubDick]

Yeh, when I was first looking into this engine I was also assuming it was a vacuum actuated system - was very suprised to find it was pressure activated but then I guess that's very fail safe. If there's no pressure to drive the wastegate then there's no boost to limit - simplisity.

Obews - another thing that will help is a boost gauge. I had running issues and thought it was boost related. I installed a boost gauge and it quickly showed me there was no problem there. Mine turned out to be low reading MAF sensor and the timimg was out.

[obews]

Hi guys, well took the pipe off the wastewgate and went for a run - no difference ! just as dead and I mean dead , There was a lot more go on my old 2.4 caravelle it just seems to be wanting to hold back if you put the throttle about half way, and I'm sure there's a clicking noise like a relay woking coming from the fusebox area that wasn't there before !
Olwyn.

[DubDick]

It could simply mean that the turbo overboosted and the ECU instantly went into limp mode.

I think you need to connected everything back up and get the running boost pressure verified. If your absolutly sure that your are getting low boost the it may be time to disconnect the exhaust section from the turbo so you can inspect the wastegate.
That's a big job on a 2.5 as it's right down the back of the engine. Maybe easier to reach from underneath but the exhaust clamp below it is an absolute sod from what I here - I wouldn't attempt it myself.

[Moose man]

Will your VAG com check boost pressure,live data, while driving the vehicle??

[obews]

I don't really know much about the Vag com it took me forever just to get it running but I will have a look.
Another question is wouldn't Vag com tell me if there is a turbo fault or that it is in limp mode?
I'll go an plug it in and get back with the results .

Olwyn.

[obews]

Plugged Vag com in with engine running and says no faults found !
Won't let me do any running tests says I'm not registered - maybe It's just my computer skills or lack of them !
Olwyn.

[DubDick]

If your using the free version of Vag Com then it is very restricted. If running with the actuator pipe disconnected didn't bring up an error (which it should have done if it went limp mode) then I suspect the wastgate is the problem.

Moose nan - the problem with using vag-com to read boost pressure is it can only tell you what your MAP is sensing and that might be the probelm - best to use an independant gauge or sensor. Even something tempory rigged will be fine. Your looking to see 0.6 bar. The more accurate a guage the better but you could always rig up something onto a digital pressure gauge. Finding a suitable place to take a pressure reading is the hard part. Mine has a remote MAP sensor (pipe going to he ECU) so I Tee'd into that. I run a standard 1.5bar turbo gauge but anything will do really.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f107/Dickpix/Dash.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f107/Dickpix/Splice1.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f107/Dickpix/splice3.jpg

[obews]

If the wastegate isn't working would the turbo not work even at 2-3000 rpm or would the engine just go into limp mode immediately ?
There is absolutely no boost from the turbo at all even at lower revs !
I will need to purchase a boost pressure gauge and take it from there.
Olwyn.

[DubDick]

Obews - the thing that concerns me is that poeple often assume that there is no boost or turbo not working just because the power is down. It's quite possible that your not getting enough fuel. Mine can produce full boost at even modest throttle positions, but the power is low until I apply more throttle.

If the wastegate is broken or the washer is missing you'll get only slight boost and lots of missing power. A gauge will cost a few £ and will show you for sure if you really have a probelm with the turbo or not.

Remember 3,000rpm maybe be putting enough past the turbo to generate some action, even is the wastegate is faulty - but the engine istaking so much intake air that it won't be enough to maintain any pressure in the inlet so will appear like the turbo isn't helping.

Have you changed yoy MAF sensor?
If the MAF goes faulty the engine goes completely gutless and the turbo seems to die away.

[obews]

Had the MAF checked at the VW garage recently (tried another one on it) and said it made no difference. I will check all the pipes and hoses again just to make sure - and will try and get a boost gauge. I will then attempt to get to the wastegate .
Cheers Olwyn.
Well been under the bonnet for a while and took off the hoses from the MAF to the turbo inlet and found the plastic pipe that connects to the inlet very slack - wouldn't have thought that it would be airtight .The rubber sealing ring looks very flat to me !!! Could this have anything to do with my turbo problems ?
Got my finger in to the turbo blades and they are spinning nicely,also can't see any vacuum pipe going to the ECU !

[DubDick]

Had the MAF checked at the VW garage recently (tried another one on it) and said it made no difference.

Oh dear, it is looking like a turbo issue then. It could be a fuelling problem but the likelihood is that it's the turbo now.



Well been under the bonnet for a while and took off the hoses from the MAF to the turbo inlet and found the plastic pipe that connects to the inlet very slack - wouldn't have thought that it would be airtight .The rubber sealing ring looks very flat to me !!! Could this have anything to do with my turbo problems ?

I wouldn't have thought so but It's had to tell without seeing it. The ting about vacuum line is they tend to self seal so don't need to be pipe clamped. Just two smooth flat surfaces will be enough as the slight vac from the turbo inlet will pull them tight.
The inlet pipe to the turbo doesn't even have a clamp on it on mine and most other turbos I've seen.


also can't see any vacuum pipe going to the ECU !

Yours is the newer design then. It's got a 4 wire sensor on the intercooler which is manifold temperature and pressure. Mine has only a two wire sensor which only does temperature and there is a ref pipe running to my ECU which is where the pressure sensor is.

The best place to T into on yours will be the pipe that it fitted to the banjo bolt on the compressor output side of the turbo. On the second drawing it's called pipe A.

It might be worth skipping the boost gauge now and going straight to turbo investigation. I'm not sure where to go for this but if some company had an engineering endoscope then it'd be possible to investigate the wastegate by only removing the down pipe. Other than that I think you'd have to remove the turbo in order to check it. Maybe that isn't such a bad thing either as if the wastegate is damaged the turbo would have to come off anyway.

Sorry not to be more positive but if you've checked all the sensors and fault codes then it has to be mechanical failure. What I don't understand is why the ECU hasn't yet flagged up a low boost error, it should have if the wastegate isn't operating properly. Personally, I'd feel much more comfortable forking out for turbo investigation work if vag-com had actually reported a fresh boost related error code. Without that your still going to need to verify if the boost pressure is there or not - boost gauge.

[Moose man]

Hello.
As I mentioned early on, lets not forget the TMAP sensor. I've seen these fail and not log a fault code. It can result in no/very low boost pressure.
I realise the VAG com would read off the TMAP sensor for the live data, it was just a starting point and little quicker/easier than rigging up a boost guage. Although this would give a good live reading.
Can you be sure the VW dealership did substitute the MAF and road test it?? If your friends got a similar vehicle it would be worth trying that one on yours.

[obews]

Very strange you should suggest the MAF - I was thinking the same ,I,ll try the swap and going to get a boost gauge as soon as - if they don't work then It'll have to be turbo problem !!
Cheers Olwyn.

[DubDick]

Most likely the lack of power would be the MAF. If VW claim they've checked it then they probably have.

The TMAP could also cause issues but then that's two differen't sensors in one.
Disconnection the wastegate actuator is effectively removing the MAP's influence and it didn't result in better running so I'd say it isn't a MAP faulty.

The temperature part of this sensor doesn't make a dramatic difference to power and should also show up as an error if faulty. The sensor has to be within an acceptable range plus the ECU has other sensors to check this value against. The MAF has a temperature sensor in it and also there is one behind the front bumper.

It's a good plan to swap sensors with your mates thought - do all of them as it's far cheaper to test that way than to give it to a garage.

If when you get a gauge on it the turbo is down then it is most likely the wastegate, it could still be a fueling problem though but at that point you have to start looking somewhere so off with the turbo.

[Moose man]

Hello.
All I can say is, with regards to the MAF, from my experience it wouldn't be the first time I've been told 'yea we've checked all that...' which has resulted in sending me right down the garden path. Only to find the faulty component is one that they had allegedly checked. And yes that has been from the dealer network!!!!

[obews]

Well guys I have changed the MAF today and the intercooler with the other sensor and absolutely no change - dead!!! Checked all the hoses and they are on the right places !!!
Came home and plugged Vag com in and says no fault codes!!!
I have found out that I can read live data from the engine and went to MAF readings :-
775/MIN AIR MASS CALCULATED-270.0 mg/str
420.0 mg/str AIR MASS ACTUAL, 94.4% EGR VALVE DUTY CYCLE
At 3000/MIN AIR MASS CALC. - 400, AIR MASS ACTUAL - 450, and 4.8% EGR VALVE DUTY CYCLE.
I have not a clue what any of this means or what other readings may be helpful but will try if needed but as said it's probably turbo off time !!!
Thanks Olwyn.

[Moose man]

Hello.
Just a small point,don't shout,you have been driving the vehicle to generate the fault code?? It is very unlikely to log it just revving the engine, it needs to be under load. It is worth going for a 10 mile road test, these things don't always log straight away. No offence!!!!

[obews]

No shouting just not explaining very well - changed the MAF and intercooler and did go for a run, just experimenting with Vag com in the garage at home - not sure incase I change settings etc. - maybe you can't !!!
Not trying to find fault codes - just thought it might be relevent to say.
Cheers Olwyn.

[obews]

Hi again, I'm in the middle of taking the turbo off - waiting for the allen key sockets to arrive!
This is probably another silly question but I've heard about blocked Cat's causing problems! Don't suppose it could cause any of my turbo problems and if it was blocked how would you know ??
Cheers Olwyn.

[DubDick]

Could you just give some background on the vag-com - what version are you using?
Was it a cheap ebay cable and free software or the full registered deal?

From the reading you gave I have no idea what it is telling you. One thing for sure is that the engine will not develop enough exhaust prssure to drive the turbo unless it's under load and on throttle. Free revving is barely enough to spin up the turbo.
It's a shame you have started the turbo removal as an actual run capturing live data may have diagnosed whether it is the turbo or something else - still if you've started the job then it is one sure way to rule out the turbo.

While your in there you may want to removed the inlet manifold and EGR pipe as they get very blocked up with oily soot.
I've also blocked the EGR on mine to stop it getting worse. Later on I plan to remove the inlet manifold to clean it out also but for now I'm using thevan :-)

[obews]

Hi, the Vag com is from Ebay and is from Ross Tech but they have been very helpful on getting me going with it, if I sent them an Email it was answered that day - even Sunday!!!
The reason I havn't been a run with Vag com plugged in is that the battery in my laptop only holds a charge for about 5 mins - must be knackered ! New one badly needed.
As to the EGR valve I've already taken it off cleaned it out and blanked the pipe off - don't know if I can be bothered to take the inlet off as well - big job and I've heard that they will self clean after the pipe blanking.
Cheers Olwyn.

[DubDick]

Hmm, I'd have thought that the turbo may be easier to remove once the inlet if off. Or is it the inlet is easier when the turbo has been removed. Yeh may that's it - either way they are both pretty much in each others way when it come to working on them. If you just checking the wastegate though you only need to take the exhaust side of the turbo - which is what I suspect your doing.

AS for the manifold self cleaning - I wouldn't think so. I know the concept is that the oil rich air will slowly break down the deposit but one guy on another forum had done about 40k since blocking the EGR and his manifold was still full of gunk. It's up to you after all, I'm not sure how much difference you'll feel after cleaning it out anyway. It's just something I plan to do sometime in the future, when I'm bored and fancy getting really frustrated in the engine bay of my T4 :-)

[obews]

Yes I do fancy cleaning all that gunk out so I'll give it another thought ! Anyway just got my allen key sockets 10 mins ago and took the exhaust off the turbo but sadly the wastegate is all there and working fine - not sure what to do now !! Is it worth taking the turbo off completely as there's not much to go wrong in there or is there, and seeing it's not the wastegate where the H__L do I look at now ? Any ideas ??
Cheers Olwyn.

[DubDick]

I'll have to think on this one now.
If the wsategate is working fine then it is either (this is just a mind dump),

Turbo exhaust turbine blades gone - unlikely
Turbo compressor blades gone - unlikely
Turbo bearings gone - if it spins freely and isn't leaking oil then that's unlikely
Split boost pipes - they are so short on this engine a split should be easy to spot
Lack of fuel - most likely now.

If your not getting enough fuel then it could be a bad pump, your unlikely to block all your injectors by the same amount, at the same time so I would probably discount the injectors.

The pump could be faulty (mechanically or electronically) and not dispensing enough fuel. If there are no errors then it thinks it is doing it right therefore I'd think the internal pump sensors are suspect.

That's really about all I can think of, that is if all the sensors are reading correctly. I think that error codes maybe stored inside the pump. \you have to be a Bosch specialist to have the equipment to read these - VW just remove the pumps and ship them on for investigation. That might be you next step.
Please seek advice though and don't charge ahead on my say so.

Rich.

[DubDick]

Just thought of one more thing it could be.

Throttle posistion sensor - this should have been checked by VW but might not have been. Using vag com make sure your reading 0 to 100% smoothly.

[obews]

I know for a fact that the VW garage here did no more than try the MAF ???
I havn't taken any more apart yet - don't really think there's any point unless I do the intake manifold. Would the throttle pos .sensor not show as a fault , where do I find it and could I try a swap with my mates van ??
Cheers Olwyn.

[obews]

Hopefully this could be the answer to the problem :-
Went to have another look at the turbo just for the hell of it - put my finger on the shaft of the compressor end and gave it a good spin - only to find that it had stopped and had to put my finger further in to the blades to turn it , it was stiff and it would spin for a bit and then stick again !
I am now hoping that this would be the problem as it surely should spin freely the whole time ?? Olwyn.

[DubDick]

Sounds like your getting warmer. It should spin freely, if the bearings have gone then you'll want to find out why. Is the oil feed blocked?

Still it is strange that if the turbo wasn't boosting, no error was stored?
I don't fully understand what constitutes an error especially as their as several classes of error - permanent/self resetting, three times then store.

Maybe your mate will let you try his turbo on yours before you set off looking for a replacement or refurb.:D

[obews]

Going to take it off completely and when you look down the back of the oil supply pipe there is an oil stain - don't know how bad till I get down there.

[DubDick]

The plot thickens!

Good luck.

[Moose man]

Hello.
I thought originally a DTC was stored for 'boost, negative deveation'. Be careful when you check the turbo the way you are doing it. If the shaft is tipped or missaligned in the slightest when you are turning it it will lock up. If there is any doubt, send the turbo away for inspection before spending your money. The block exhaust is a good call.

[obews]

Well got the turbo off - not a nice job ! There is oil stains and damp all down the back where the inlet pipe is - don't know if it's that relevent ?
The shaft is definately sticking but don't see anything obvious - sending it away to get a professional check.
While I was in there I decided to remove the inlet manifold and clean it to, what a pig of a job to clean - never want to do that again !!!
Let you know the results. Cheers Olwyn.

[Moose man]

A certain amount of oil residue around the turbo pipe work is perfectly acceptable, especially on higher mileage vehicles. When it starts dripping out and covering the underside of the vehicle is when it's time to get worried!!!

[obews]

Just heard back from the engineers about my turbo and all looks well but have asked them to put new bearings and seals in seeing it is out and the van has done 190k.
What they did find and am hoping that this has been my problem is that the wastegate opens at 2psi - far too soon ! Meaning that the turbo boost has been lost - out the wastegate if I understand it correctly.
Surely I will be back to full power once I get it back home and back on !!!
Olwyn.

[DubDick]

That would do it. The engine/turbo relies on a spring which is sometimes called a boost spring. This holds the wastegate closed. Once you've got enough pressure behind the waste gate (in the turbo) & the ECU applies more to the actuator it can overcome this spring and open the waste gate.
Also at a certain point up the rev range the back pressure is so much that the wastegate gets pushed open regardless of any control signals. This is another good safety feature but a pain if your trying to tune your engine and get more boost.

So it sounds like you'll be sorted shortly & have a clean manifold so you'll be flying along :-)

[Moose man]

Sorted??

[obews]

Hello again,- just got word this afternoon that they have completed the refurbishment and are sending it up tomorrow.That means I might get it here by Friday and hopefuly if I have time put it all back together at the weekend.
As soon as I get it back together I'll let you know how it's running - cured, I hope !!!
Olwyn.

[obews]

Well the turbo arrived on Tuesday afternoon so I finished getting it all back together on Wednesday night. New wastegate and all very clean - like new !
As the van was on the stands already and I have been told that the cat. on the exhaust isn't really doing any good and can become blocked - I bought a new one from ebay and took the insides out so it's a straight through pipe that looks like the cat is still there (for mot - just in case!).Any way when I was taking the old cat off and trying to seperate the front pipe and central silencer the b----y pipe broke from the silencer, so I have now had to order a new central and rear exhaust and hopefully will be here by next weekend (£65 + £18 postage from Germany - very reasonable I thought )
Anyway that's as far as I've got - not even had it started yet but will keep you posted as to the outcome. Olwyn.

[nwk]

hi there not sure if its to late for this info but there, a company that sells a de-cat pipe cost me £57 inc pp. also does middle and back box section for £78 inc pp. the de-cat pipe has a straight thru silencer in place of the cat.fitted it friday past m.o.t sat.:approve:

[nicmas2000]

any luck ????????

[obews]

Hi, sorry I havn't been back in touch but my new exhaust still hasn't arrived ! Going to give them till Thursday - that'll be 2 weeks since I bought it - it's the only drawback living up here - you sometimes have to wait a bit longer for goods although it's never this long.
Be in touch asap.
Olwyn.

[obews]

Well at last got the exhaust and fitted it.Took it a run tonight and couldn't believe the difference - up the hill doing 60 in 4th and easily reached the ton !!!
This must surely be the end to this post and the cure to my problem !
I would like to thank all of the people who took the time to reply and give me advice on what to try.
As to the cure, it must have been the set up of the wastegate - and maybe the Cat being blocked.
Anyway thanks to you all !!!
Cheers Olwyn.

[Moose man]

Result. Good news, got there in the end :)

[t4acv]

Hi all, im another newbie and this post caught my attention as i have the exact same problem.
If anyone can help it would be greatfully received.
thanks

[Moose man]

Hello.

Have a good read through this thread, there are lots of things to test/check before the turbo is condemned. Checking for fault codes is a good starting point.

[t4acv]

I seem to have sorted my problem aswell, i got my head round the back of the engine and could see/feel that the wastegate arm was slack so i adjusted it up a fair bit and it all seems fine now.
thanks for your posts guys.:o