Oil removal through dipstick pipe.

[AutoTDI]

Has anyone ever tried this using a proprietary syringe extractor?

Its many years since I crawled under cars to remove oil via the drain plug and I don't feel like starting again. My A4 has always been dealer maintained, but I can't say I've been very impressed so far. They've often made a mess of replacing the undertray and I once discovered this halfway along the M40. I would rather not disturb this tray now its securely (I think) attached.

So what I would like to know is, how effective these syringes are at removing all the oil and sludge. Presumably, with the engine warmed up, most of the sludge would be in suspension?

[Col]

I've been doing this for years but use one of these things;

A Pela 6000 oil extractor.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v602/colin__/P2030061.jpg

On PD TDI with the oil filter accessed from above it is simplicity itself. Interestingly on the TDI you can actually remove more oil from the engine than you could by pulling the sump plug out. The reason being is that you can get the extractor pipe down into the oil cooler and remove probably about 1/4 of oil that would otherwise just sit there. (as pic below)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v602/colin__/P2030060.jpg

[AutoTDI]

Hi BigCol

Thanks for the info & pics. I will definitely give this a try as it seems to avoid a lot of hassle. I have also seen the Pela recommended on other forums and the price seems very reasonable. An added bonus is that the Pela has a volume scale on the container so you can see how much oil has been extracted. I can also think of some other uses for the Pela; eg when my son-in-law overfills his engine and lawn mower!

I note that this item is popular in ship's chandlers. I can see how useful this would be for removing oil from a marine engine.

[andysuth]

Hi BigCol

Thanks for the info & pics. I will definitely give this a try as it seems to avoid a lot of hassle. I have also seen the Pela recommended on other forums and the price seems very reasonable. An added bonus is that the Pela has a volume scale on the container so you can see how much oil has been extracted. I can also think of some other uses for the Pela; eg when my son-in-law overfills his engine and lawn mower!

I note that this item is popular in ship's chandlers. I can see how useful this would be for removing oil from a marine engine.


I used one of these for my last oil change, and I'm not convinced it got all the oil.

I think if you use one you may need to change at more regular intervals.

I'm about to change again, probably I'll do a dual change (put it on ramps, pump out as much as possible, and then do a standard sump change) just to see how much is left in when you use the sump pump.

Maybe I'll engine flush too.

The main issue with A4's isn't the engine guard, it's getting it onto ramps, I've used the same ramps for 5 different makes and models of car, but the Audi A4 has too little clearance.

If I only get a very small amount <300ml with the post pump sump drain then I think I'll just use this style of pump more often.

-Andy.

[Col]

I used one of these for my last oil change, and I'm not convinced it got all the oil.

I think if you use one you may need to change at more regular intervals.

I'm about to change again, probably I'll do a dual change (put it on ramps, pump out as much as possible, and then do a standard sump change) just to see how much is left in when you use the sump pump.

Maybe I'll engine flush too.

The main issue with A4's isn't the engine guard, it's getting it onto ramps, I've used the same ramps for 5 different makes and models of car, but the Audi A4 has too little clearance.

If I only get a very small amount <300ml with the post pump sump drain then I think I'll just use this style of pump more often.

-Andy.

I would be very very interested to find out how much more you get out using the method you describe.

Whatever it is, I would doubt if the amount equalled what you can get out of the oil cooler. But as above, I'm very interested in the results.

Also, I'm not quite so worried as I change the oil and filter every 5000 miles and do, if I keep the car long enough drain through the sump every four changes, every 20k. So far my Passat has had the oil out through sump twice, once when I first got it and once (which corresponded with a change) when I fitted the sump plug oil temp sensor.

As for flushing, not a good idea in my opinion as the hydraulic tappets seem to be quite sensitive to this. Saying that, when I first got the car, I literally poured a gallon of cheap oil through the engine in an attempt to wash it out. It was probably was complete waste of money though.

Keep us posted with your findings.

[aerotec]

Big Col,

I have ordered a PELA after reading your "How to" but being a noob here I didn't figure out that my car is a B5 and still has the metal oil filter and not the paper cartridge found on the B6. Will I still be able to get at the Oil Cooler oil with the PELA or am I best to drain via the sump plug instead?

Also I have bought some Engine Oil Flush but you say not to use it? Would I be ok to use it this once as it has gone 2k over since the service light came on so I really want to get a good oil change!

Thx :Blush:

[Col]

If it is a non PD tdi then suck the oil out via the dipstick then wrap a carrier bag round the filter and remove with no mess.

Still saves you having to get the undersheild of to get at the sump plug.

[aerotec]

Very true!

But not taking out the sump plug won't mean a load of old oil gets left in the engine?

And if I am honest I am not sure what engine I have. The EuroCarParts chap said I had an 81kw engine?

I thought mine was the PD engine? I have a 2000 V Reg (Facelift) 1.9tdi. I thought it was 110bhp but websites I have been to only list 90 or 115bhp?

Sadly I had my service book pack stolen out of my car a few years ago. Would there be any info on the replacement V5?



If it is a non PD tdi then suck the oil out via the dipstick then wrap a carrier bag round the filter and remove with no mess.

Still saves you having to get the undersheild of to get at the sump plug.

[the_wave_rider]

I used an engine flush on my car always do and no probs here

I like the idea of the pump as it would get rid of most of the oil before taking the sump plug out but most of the sediment will sit at the bottom of the sump (This is true of any hydraulic system as any sediment that is not removed by the filter will go back to the reservoir were it congeals and turblent flow is not achieved in the reservior)

Just an interesting fact for you oil filters are made from 125+micron paper and do nothing for really filtering your oil they are a nut and bolt catcher. When you think a standard hydraulic system will have anything from 3micron to 25micron our little oil filters do nothing really! I multipass tested a car filter years ago offered 80grams of calibrated particle dust with sizes ranging from 3micron up to 150micron at a flow rate of 5 l/m and after an hour it held 2 grams of the dust and the was 2.2% effcient at 128micron and above.

I,m not a geek just used to work for a R&D hydraulic company :-)

[aerotec]

Makes sense.

To truly cleanse the oil would need a much larger unit than the oil filter offers. I guess its purpose is to remove particulates that would be deemed outside the tolerances of what the engine can handle.



I used an engine flush on my car always do and no probs here

I like the idea of the pump as it would get rid of most of the oil before taking the sump plug out but most of the sediment will sit at the bottom of the sump (This is true of any hydraulic system as any sediment that is not removed by the filter will go back to the reservoir were it congeals and turblent flow is not achieved in the reservior)

Just an interesting fact for you oil filters are made from 125+micron paper and do nothing for really filtering your oil they are a nut and bolt catcher. When you think a standard hydraulic system will have anything from 3micron to 25micron our little oil filters do nothing really! I multipass tested a car filter years ago offered 80grams of calibrated particle dust with sizes ranging from 3micron up to 150micron at a flow rate of 5 l/m and after an hour it held 2 grams of the dust and the was 2.2% effcient at 128micron and above.

I,m not a geek just used to work for a R&D hydraulic company :-)

[bora(ing) nick]

And if I am honest I am not sure what engine I have. The EuroCarParts chap said I had an 81kw engine?

I thought mine was the PD engine? I have a 2000 V Reg (Facelift) 1.9tdi. I thought it was 110bhp but websites I have been to only list 90 or 115bhp?



If it is an 81KW, then you have the 110BHP, and it's non-PD.

The conversion for KW to BHP is 1.35 (odds) so 81 x 1.35 = 109.35 BHP (psi)

You can check the KW rating on the sticker under the carpet in the boot ;)

Hope that helps

Nick

[aerotec]

Thanks Mate! I was wondering where the engine data sticker was!

So being non-PD it just means I don't have to worry about making sure I have "PD" oil?


If it is an 81KW, then you have the 110BHP, and it's non-PD.

The conversion for KW to BHP is 1.35 (odds) so 81 x 1.35 = 109.35 BHP (psi)

You can check the KW rating on the sticker under the carpet in the boot ;)

Hope that helps

Nick

[bora(ing) nick]

Thats right, but you still need to get oil that conforms with the requirements of VW....

If you need any advice on oil, speak to OILMAN (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=24704). he's a supporting company of the forum and i'm sure would be happy to help with any questions you may have. (you get a discount too IIRC ;) )

PS, i think your engine code is AFN.

[aerotec]

Yup I was browsing his site the other day and will use him in future. I have VW507.00 spec oil. Cost me a bleedin fortune but just got the best I could!

Rich

[the_wave_rider]

Yup I was browsing his site the other day and will use him in future. I have VW507.00 spec oil. Cost me a bleedin fortune but just got the best I could!

Rich

I,ve never understood the point of getting the manufacturers oil for a stupid price,a diesel oil for a diesel engine is just that it will be set within the parameters for basic diesel engines. A 10w-40w is the viscosity of the oil at given temps thats as basic as it gets then you get your addictives like in magnatec oil.

I always use semi-synthetic unless its a turbo petrol which generally run at higher temps (They do when I drive it lol) then I use synthetic

Just make sure the oil is for a turbo diesel engine and throw it in

[aerotec]

That wasn't from a dealer :zx11:

I went to Euro Car parts to get all my bits and the chap was helpful enough but there were 4 oils to choose and I wasn't quite sure so just went for the best which is fully synthetic Valvoline. I will prob do 5k changes in future so will get some oil from Opie for around the £20 mark in future.

[bora(ing) nick]

I,ve never understood the point of getting the manufacturers oil for a stupid price,a diesel oil for a diesel engine is just that it will be set within the parameters for basic diesel engines. A 10w-40w is the viscosity of the oil at given temps thats as basic as it gets then you get your addictives like in magnatec oil.

I always use semi-synthetic unless its a turbo petrol which generally run at higher temps (They do when I drive it lol) then I use synthetic

Just make sure the oil is for a turbo diesel engine and throw it in

Thats not really the best advice you've ever given..... (I Hope)

VW diesels are very tempermental about what oil is used within them. You will get the best performance, engine life, and protection from the oils reccomended by VW.

Please read here (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=1482) to enlighten yourself with all there is to know about Oil.

Nick