View Full Version : Serpentine belt change
Neil_Sc
18-03-2008, 05:33 PM
My serpentine belt is in a bit of a state and I'm going to have to change it in the next few weeks.
Has anybody had the front bumper and lock carrier in service position on these cars? (2001 B6 1.9 TDi (130) - engine code AWX)
Anything to watch out for?
I'm going to do the air conditioning belt at the same time.
I've got some M8 threaded rod on the way to hold the lock carrier.
stu22uk
18-03-2008, 08:42 PM
Hi Neil,
Ive just done the water pump on mine - same engine as yours - It was a pain but shifting the lock carrier made things much easier. The best advice I can give you is to go and buy a haynes manual, they tell you how to do it in concise stages, try and get the workshop manual though.
You will need torx screw drivers, torx bits that will fit on to a ratchet (buy the 3/8" drive, rail of assorted sizes from halfords) and a 10mm deep socket and extension bar for removal of the front bumper.
I found that the service position didnt give enough room, so like it said in the haynes manual I screwed two lengths (300mm each) of M8 screwed rod into the provided threaded holes under each headlight (after the bumper was removed). Removed a coolant hose from the underside and that allowed me to side the lock carrier much further back with its weight suspended on the screwed rod.
The serpantine belt comes off really easily - you just compress the tensioner with a 19mm spanner and the belt is free to come off nearly all the pulleys. To get it off completely you have to remove the air con belt as its in front.
I had to remove the viscous coupling and fan in order to get at the timing belt - but im not sure if you will have to, hope not - its a pain. You need allen keys that will go on a ratchet and a method of jamming the viscous coupling so it resists you when trying to slacken.
I mentioned earlier that I undone a coolant hose, if you dont want to drain the cooling system you wont be able to slide the lock carrier much further back than the service position.
If you are happy to - its no big deal - then there is a bung in the underside of the radiatior. Bear in mind you need to get the coolant from audi (G12 or something) because not all of it will come out and if you mix it with any other type the audi crap turns to a gel - apparently.
As I said, the Haynes manual is a must
Good luck...... :beerchug:
Neil_Sc
18-03-2008, 09:20 PM
Thanks for the reply.
I have the Haynes manual and all the tools mentioned and the M8 threaded rod on order.
How far does the service position allow you to move the lock carrier out by?
I have 2 x 300 mm M8 threaded rod on my order, I can see why you'd need much better access for the water pump, but hoping to get away with it for the belt change if I can.
stu22uk
18-03-2008, 09:32 PM
If you look at the top mounting fixings (torx screws) for the lock carrier you will notice two each side, in line with one behind the other.
The service position is when the rear hole from the lock carrier lines up with the front hole in he car body (putting a screw back in to hold it). In essence the extra space you get is the pitch between the two bolts - something like 1,1/2"
Neil_Sc
18-03-2008, 09:44 PM
Stu, perfect thanks. I think you have just saved me alot of ******* about.
I'll change the water while I am at it and so give me alot more access.
Surely it is better than filling the swear jar! :biglaugh:
stu22uk
18-03-2008, 09:59 PM
Ha Ha - keep it handy though, theres always the unforseen! ;)
Let me know how you go....
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