Help please.

[dav150n]

Hi there.
I have recently had my timing belt and water pump replaced and am now experiencing the coolant temperature too high message on the dash!
Symptoms are temperature gauge goes up to the max when I dip clutch and let car idle it goes back down. Has anyone experienced anything similar before.
Car is 2018 2.0 TDI.

[Crasher]

Could be an air lock, they are evil systems to bleed requiring a special computer guided process and a vacuum filling system. Where did the pump come from, the make, part number and the cars VIN?

[dav150n]

Hi Crasher. Thanks for the reply. The kit is from Dayco I believe, unsure of part number. VIN WAUZZZ8V1J1049573.

[Crasher]

That would be VW belt kit 04L 198 119 K and Dayco kit KTB884 with VW pump 04L 121 011 N which is a Dayco conundrum, firstly you need to know that exact Dayco kit number,

[dav150n]

Not sure if I can find that out. (KTBWP8841 perhaps).
What is this computer process you mention? I have a friend with vcds and the garage have told me they filled the coolant with a vacuum.
Could this sort it out you think??

[Crasher]

VCDS is supposed to be able to do this but it doesn’t work like the ODIS system does by revving the engine and alternately cycling the electric pumps and moving the mechanical pump displacement ring into the fully open position. We get a lot of local garages bring them to us just for the bleeding.

[dav150n]

Ah right. I don’t suppose your anywhere near the north east are you? Or do you know what the procedure is with vcds? Is it this https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=99i5ag_eiCo

[Crasher]

Nottingham. Yes that is the VCDS version but doesn’t work as well as theVW ODIS way but is usually effective enough with a vacuum bleeder. Until the EA288 we had never even bought a vacuum system as we never needed one but now we use it all the time as it speeds the job up on all engines.

[dav150n]

Just a tad too far to travel then 🫣. How many times would you carry out the tests? I assume I should leave the top off the expansion tank? Are there any specific values or other tests I should/could perform to rule out something else that could be causing it? Apologies for all the questions. Just want the car to be back to how it was ☹️

[Crasher]

Without the vac system I had to do it three times on one car using a pressure pump on the expansion tank and ODIS until it suddenly went gulp and took an additional 2 litres of G12 Evo; only use G12 Evo ready mix or diluted with distilled water as the heater matrix won’t work this winter. Then we experimented with a budget vacuum system and the VCDS method, we have never even tried without since on the CUNA engine or any other and not experienced any problems. After major coolant system surgery on any car we always used to tell the customer the system may burp overnight but feedback is suggesting this is no longer a concern.

[dav150n]

Thanks for the info. I’ll try the above over the course of next week. Hopefully that solves the issue. If not, I can see it being a trip to the dealers for a coolant drain and fill, best get saving.

[mickeybo]

get your timing re-checked

[dav150n]

get your timing re-checked
Could that cause the issue? The warning only occurs when car is under load on a motorway, round the doors it doesn’t move from the 90 degree mark.

[dav150n]

Hi Crasher. Just going through the steps now and noticed the temp sensor on radiator output is reading 2222.0c. Could that be my issue??

[Crasher]

It probaly hasn't got one so that is the default value. If it is at 2222.0c, I suggest calling the fire brigade :firedevil

[dav150n]

Ha ha. I had a feeling that was the case. Just clutching at straws.

[dav150n]

Thought i had posted what the issue was. Turns out it was the water pump. Had that changed to a genuine Audi pump and the issue went. Guess the aftermarket one wasn’t compatible to the car.

[Crasher]

That was my initial suspicion. We are just doing the same engine in an A6 and genuine pump/belt kit only.