Ea288 2.0tdi crlb dpf system non adblue

[N871BUD]

Hello, noticed today a bit of excesive dpf regens.
Done a trip one way on motorway 70 miles, half way i stopped to services and regen was on, i get close to destination 65miles or so from initial start and everything was ok regen not on at a trafic light; 3-5 miles later regen was on with usual side efects elevated idle on stand still and start stop disabled /not available. Waited for it to do its stuff and finish regen, start and stop will kick in once done. Anyway did not think much of it... not first time after a long drive it decides to regen just before wanting to stop keeping pinpointed 20-25 minutes to the car to finish regen.
2hours later i left ... 1 hour later 45 miles is doing regen again...

After regen idle differential presure is 9-10 mbar on high revs3000rpm is 55mbar each time, ash load is 75g out of 80g limit. No faults no lights or pending intermitent faults. Egr dif presure is 11mbar...

Not sure if this is a dpf issue reaching the end if life span or is something else causing it.

Currently clocking just above 206000 miles. Oil consumption is about 700ml/9000miles using 0w30 vag 507 longlife. Drivestyle is moderate and mostly motorway.

Anyone, any direction i should look into, is worth taking dpf of take it to a dpf wash boot, checking injectors turbo?! Not really know wher to start before it turns worse.

[Whippy53]

Only my opinion of course but at that mileage I would thing it's way past useful service life for the dpf. As I say, just my opinion and someone will be along in a tic to say I'm wrong. So, there's that.

[Crasher]

I agree, the DPF is effectively full of ash, DPF Clean Team can bring it back to life.

[N871BUD]

I was planning a dpf clean anyway end of summer only a bit woried could/might be something else as did not manifest this way till this weekend. I need to start some phone calls by the looks...

[N871BUD]

what would be the part number for the dpf assambly? 04L 131 602 px or mx? for tmbbh7np5h7516762

[Crasher]

Was 04L 131 669 KX now 04L 131 648 SX, just send the entire assembly to DPF Clean Team in Hinckley, they won't let you down

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52427735020_9b5a147e0b_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nSRR4S)

[N871BUD]

Right, just revisited the topic i was at a loss 2 days making phone calls left and right and everywhere i was getting mobile servise to clean on the car most saying or trying to sell me that ash can be removed with dpf on the car��.

Thanks for the guide in the right direction... will talk with them in the morning.

[Crasher]

Personally I think this is impossible on the car.

[N871BUD]

Was busy today getting sump off and the crankshaft seal replaced, and i had a look to remove the dpf unit to send it for cleaning; by the looks subrame/ crossmember needs to be dropped and driver side driveshaft? just looking for comfirmation on the matter trying to avoid taking stuff apart that i do not need to...

[Crasher]

We drop the subframe and offside driveshaft, on a lift it’s easy, on the floor… torture.

[N871BUD]

hi time for a update i gues. Fitted from factory i had on the car 04L 131 669 E. managed to get a identical unit as i could not aford the downtime and sent that one for cleaning which should arrive tommorow.... In the mean time i was looking through the process of taking the existing one off and replacing it and i have the T10486/1 for alighning the subframe but i am not sure if i need to source also Assembly aid - T10511- and Calibration tool - T10512?

so far i have on order the seals and clamps:

04L 253 725 B turbo to cat clamp 1pcs
04L 253 115 A turbo to cat seal 1pcs




1K0 253 725 dpf to downpipe clamp 1pcs
1K0 253 115 AE dpf to downpipe seal 1pcs




04L 131 455 A EGR cooler To DPF clamp 1pcs
04L 131 547 EGR Cooler to DPF seal 1pcs


1k0 253 141 S exhaust clamp 55x88 1pcs

and a bunch of bolts :

N10785401 4pcs
N91167101 2pcs
N91066101 2pcs
N91231201 4pcs

[N871BUD]

Anyone able to advice if the dpf can be aligned properly in place without Assembly aid - T10511 ? seems to be impossible to get it... is V03839037LA the same thing?

regards,

[Crasher]

If it is what I am thinking of then it is approx £12 from TPS, I don’t know if a main dealer would oblige even though I know they can. We have the tool and have done a number of these now and my tech who has done all of them isn’t convinced it is necessary. What we have decided on it saves around a day if you remove the front of the car rather than trying to get the DPF out by moving the engine over to the left.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52972418800_aeaae81896_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oGZuzw)

[N871BUD]

Hi yes if my engine would be fitted like that would make sense but as my one is skoda superb not audi a4 a6 engine position is transverse same as golf mk7 passat audi a3. i think the tool is to help to keep it suspended while aligned stress free.

The picture of what i am after below would help me as it seems i will have to do the swap of dpf on the floor and me on my back.
Interesting is even tho i already got from the same dealership :T10486/1, t40055, t10377, t10415, t10055, t10353 and the 3415 counterhold... they say they cannot sell me those two for some reason. what is actually TPS? and another question is fi i need to use some sort of hot paste for the threads of the sensors i am refiting? the workshop refers at some point of something like that but could not find it in parts catalog and obviously the parts counter does not know what i am on about...
39138

PS; by the way, you were right ... the dpf clean team in Hinckley are very good... to bad are not more places like that...

[N871BUD]

Hi yes if my engine would be fitted like that would make sense but as my one is skoda superb not audi a4 a6 engine position is transverse same as golf mk7 passat audi a3. i think the tool is to help to keep it suspended while aligned stress free.

The picture of what i am after below would help me as it seems i will have to do the swap of dpf on the floor and me on my back.
Interesting is even tho i already got from the same dealership :T10486/1, t40055, t10377, t10415, t10055, t10353 and the 3415 counterhold... they say they cannot sell me those two for some reason. what is actually TPS? and another question is fi i need to use some sort of hot paste for the threads of the sensors i am refiting? the workshop refers at some point of something like that but could not find it in parts catalog and obviously the parts counter does not know what i am on about...
39138

PS; by the way, you were right ... the dpf clean team in Hinckley are very good... to bad are not more places like that...

Apparently the t10511 is on back order a gold dust made tool at the end of the rainbow with a cost of 589£ or so plus vat and the t10512 about 29£...

Seems like i need to see if i can manage without or create something to help me hold the dpf assambly in place while i align it stress free...

[Crasher]

PS; by the way, you were right ... the dpf clean team in Hinckley are very good... to bad are not more places like that...

You often find bad people/bad product so easy to ignore or good people/bad product or bad people/good product that latter of which is the most frustrating but it is rare to find great people great product/service. The two that spring to mind for me are Midland Turbo (exceptional) and DPF Clean Team.

[Ben_T]

Hope I've clicked the correct Reply button - completely new to the forum apologies if not.

I've just completed this job myself on my MK3 Octavia vRS and thought I'd share my experiences...

First off, I don't have access to a lift so subframe removal and refitting wasn't possible. I completed most of the work from above with the vehicle on axle stands.

To do this, I:

1) Removed the air filter housing, battery and tray, EGR to turbo pipe, boost pipe, gear shift cables (well, moved to the side), radiator fan and drained the cooling system
2) I then removed the two bolts securing the EGR cooler to the block and the v-band clamp holding the EGR cooler to the DPF
3) Unbolted the metal coolant hose which runs along the right hand side of the engine, for better access
4) Supported the engine and gearbox on a support beam, removed the bolts from the engine and gearbox upper mounts (I left the lower pendulum mount intact, for better or worse...) then pulled the whole engine forwards (beware not to stress the fuel return line incorporating the pulsation damper). These mount bolts need to be aligned exactly on refitting or they can snap..
5) supported the cat/DPF assembly on the support beam then removed the 4 or 5 bolts holding the cat/DPF assembly onto the block, and the V-band clamp holding the cat to the turbo
6) I still didn't have room to manoeuvre the whole sherbang out in one piece so this is where it gets hairy and requires luck - mark the DPF in relation to the "backbone" that comes from the CAT. If you're lucky, you'll be able to access the v-clamp bolt that holds the DPF to the backbone. Yours might be the later type without a clamp in which case ignore all of this! Slacken the bolt and separate the system. Pull the CAT out first (it'll still be awkward) then remove the DPF after disconnecting it from the front downpipe
7) I then soaked the DPF in off-car DPF cleaner overnight, then hosed it through the following day. It took three hours of blasting it, soaking in hot acetic acid, shaking it to dislodge the ash plugs, blasting it again...
8) You'll know when it's clean! Might still be better to send to a cleaning company
9) Refitting will consume your soul as re-uniting the DPF and CAT backbone with the gasket in the right place is incredibly difficult, especially on the car! I persevered and got there in the end. Aligning the whole system is tricky and I suspect the backbone warped a little bit during disassembly as it took a lot of adjusting (and swearing) to get all the components to mate. But I got there in the end and touch wood, 3,000 miles later all seems OK.

Sorry for the long post. This whole job took me two weeks of evenings and weekends going at a leisurely pace and with mild amounts of incompetence. But restoring the functionality of the DPF for £20 is quite a feeling. It was crammed with oil ash and regenerating every 10 miles before I started the work, now it normally goes 200 - 250 miles. If only I could fix the oil consumption...

It's a pig of a job this way, but it's possible. Hope this helps.

[Crasher]

Filthy work isn’t it.

[N871BUD]

Quick guess what i am doing this bank holiday weekend... probably a lot of cursing tea and coffee combined with a sore back doing the dpf on the superb... i hope i manage on axle stands compared with what you needed to go through, if that fails you have some good points in your post even if not by the vw book. Anyway i will obviously skip the cleaning part as i have my clean dpf ready to go on the car but the clamp you are on about is a no go in my case as my ones are both welded.

Question ahead of the change process is how i get it to reset with vcds? Do i tell the car it has a new dpf ? Or reset values? I could not find a definitive answer for this.

Any tips and tricks after is on the car everything is back on and coolant filled?

[Crasher]

Welded! Who would do that?

[N871BUD]

Unless i understood wrong from his post he refers to the connection between cat and actual dpf. my dpf is welded as one unit, some can be separeted like your picture here:


39169

some can be split in 2-3 pices yellow marked clamp is what i am on about. my one does not have that, would of made i think taking it off the car cleaning etc much easier.
39171

[Crasher]

What is the VIN?

[Ben_T]

What a bummer. It's excruciatingly difficult re-assembling on the car anyway, so as long as you can get the complete unit in/out you'll be fine. The section from the DPF that connects to the front downpipe really gets in the way. It's a good idea to loosen and remove ALL of the sensors on the system before you unbolt the system from the block as they also get in the way and snag on things during removal. Once the system's free, even off the car, getting enough torque on them to crack them off's very difficult (impossible for me). Hopefully you'll have more space to work with on your Superb than I had on the Octavia...

And I don't think you need to reset anything after DPF replacement - I reset the oil ash level on mine because I had VCDS and I could, but it's not like the old PSA systems that would flash up a warning light when the mileage limit was reached. In any case, I think the oil ash mass is calculated from VW's oil usage estimate rather than an actual measurement. Mine's showing 0.1 grams of ash after 3,000 miles, but the car's used 1.5 litres of oil in that time so should really have 10 grams or so in it...

You might notice it regenerating almost straight away after replacement - the ECU calculates the soot mass in the DPF based on the measured back pressure. It also estimates the soot mass based on mileage since last regen. It regenerates whenever either one of these exceeds 20 grams on my car. So it might already be "planning" one and might ignore the new lack of back pressure!

Best of luck!

[N871BUD]

I think you have more of one problem than cleaning the dpf 1.5 liters in 3000miles is very close to the teritory of excesive oil consumtion and pretty abnormal for this engine. You should look into were that oil is going maybe ? leaking externaly? maybe turbo leaking a bit of oil? as if it gets burned or torbo is letting by oil exhaust side you will end up cleaning the dpf way sooner than you think.


Did not have a issue with the sensors to take them off the replacement and also today from the one in the car... but wheater was not really with me today and do to the rain i wasted most of the day till afternoon as rain was on and of.

din manage to get the subframe off and away from the car while car on ramps with rear wheels and front on axle stands, it needs as minimum of 400mm clearance under front bumper and front jacking pointsand wheels off otherwise will be very hard to move away from unde the car the subframe and be able to leave stearing rack and still be able to move. once subframe with suspension wishbones and driveshaft driver side seems to be ok to acces the assambly and remove whatever else needs removing... tho i stumbled on getting off the bolt in the midle off just above the the downpipe lighting was becoming a problem so i will see in the morning to get that out and take it completly of the car and starting putting everything back together...

[N871BUD]

What is the VIN?


are you after my vin or octavia' s vin?

[Crasher]

The Octavia, I think…:alcoholic

[N871BUD]

I am glad that is over... cleaned dpf on, everything back together but with bit of hadaches as to align back on the car the subframe/crossmember while on axle stands is not really straightforward as it may seem. Cooling system bled and soot adaptation done with vcds but i cannot do the ash adaptation or have any option to tell the ecu the dpf was changed...differential pressure on dpf is 6-7 mbar on idle and 28 at 2500rpm as before was about 12 on idle and over 80mbar even after regen.

Am i missing something in regards to reset the ash values with vcds or i need another tool?

[Ben_T]

Many congratulations on getting it all done, and so quickly too! On my VCDS at least, resetting the soot content also reset the ash content at the same time - perhaps check yours and see if this is the case for you too? I don't think there's any need to reset the ash content anyway, except for your own satisfaction.

And yes, oil consumption's at 1 liter per 1,800 miles now (rising to 1 litre per 1,000 miles if I put Castrol Edge in!!). That's at 150k miles on a CUPA TDI 184. It's definitely burning it (exhaust fumes stink of oil on acceleration) and the turbo/inlet are as dry as a bone. Seems to be a problem with the oil scraper rings clogging on this engine; the oil drainage holes are tiny and seem to get clogged with soot. I'm going to try putting some ring cleaner jollop through the glow plug bores and set up a new thread on it if it works...

[Roverfan]

You had the same fun I did. Cleaned dpf on last Tuesday after noticing excessive regens every 100 or so city miles with 98g+ of ash and more pressingly P0403 not going away. Not changed any of the settings yet..want to to see if it delays regens or not..so far it's over 200 miles since last regen. So it looks like it doesn't rely on calculations as much as the pressure sensor live data, at least whilst all is well. Measured soot was showing minus figures but it's at around 2.8g now.

[N871BUD]

I done on the car adaptations for differential presssure sensors for particulate filter and for low pressure egr (my whole low pressure egr and cooler got replaced few months back); exhaust flap, egr and adaptation for soot

For some reason i cannot do: IDE 07903 adaptation for ash mass. I go into the menu and i get error security acces required, once i put in 17575 which was accepted tho vcds was hinting to get 12345 into security but that is not accepted, i still get the error.

Did not manage to look more into it last night as laptop was drained, but i will tonight.

[N871BUD]

Many congratulations on getting it all done, and so quickly too! On my VCDS at least, resetting the soot content also reset the ash content at the same time - perhaps check yours and see if this is the case for you too? I don't think there's any need to reset the ash content anyway, except for your own satisfaction.

And yes, oil consumption's at 1 liter per 1,800 miles now (rising to 1 litre per 1,000 miles if I put Castrol Edge in!!). That's at 150k miles on a CUPA TDI 184. It's definitely burning it (exhaust fumes stink of oil on acceleration) and the turbo/inlet are as dry as a bone. Seems to be a problem with the oil scraper rings clogging on this engine; the oil drainage holes are tiny and seem to get clogged with soot. I'm going to try putting some ring cleaner jollop through the glow plug bores and set up a new thread on it if it works...

I only used castrol on my one once in 211 k miles was using 1L 1500 miles...changed it 3 weeks later... i would use either the quantum 5w30 504.00/507.00( is also done by bp like castrol should) or what vag has as genuine: GS55545M4EUR it replaced the 5w30 about 3 years ago but funny enough i could not get it at dealerships.

Genuine VW SEAT Audi Skoda 0W30 Longlife III Fully Synthetic Engine Oil 5 Lit... | eBay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294472823549?hash=item448ff2b2fd:g:o9oAAOSwk2hhbUC M&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4I0ksasA3ywis0qRWyi6M3wIz570A 8cgmRnxm%2BJqeyYGEH6JTkwp0W0PB1%2BR4gbzAT6YsWS8hs8 Emff0lfesyliGHkaZHLwdy9cyvCpaXUYIlkAtsgNvfk9T7CkXA IfmZ9DVdQFAgxCeQ5O7nTUPMASho3qy5KpxfIzSFWCbuVhyf%2 BPuzdOznmsvjEsWQade06Iyaa%2BKY9GhWZToKc%2Be5j5jxTJ H4c9lpsmiwn2KNY%2FC46i%2FoM2hf9t7JA3%2FgxaTK1Ynfng H7bP1VrJwbdB826Fiv5e7NV4Ka8cwbrE2LwE3%7Ctkp%3ABk9S R4anyYbIYg)

Another cause for oil consumption could be valve stem oil seals exhaust side, or at least i would look at those before pointing at piston rings; tho do to the work involved ...

[Ben_T]

Thanks! I may well give those a go. Thanks for the suggestion of the valve stem seals too. I suppose the turbo/DPF back pressures help to reduce leaks like this, but if they're very worn this could be the problem. I have no inclination whatsoever to work on this engine ever again though (at the moment)... hideous. Does VCDS give you a hint for the login code for the adaption? I think mine might have done. Unless it's the standard 12233 used on older cars?

[N871BUD]

Thanks! I may well give those a go. Thanks for the suggestion of the valve stem seals too. I suppose the turbo/DPF back pressures help to reduce leaks like this, but if they're very worn this could be the problem. I have no inclination whatsoever to work on this engine ever again though (at the moment)... hideous. Does VCDS give you a hint for the login code for the adaption? I think mine might have done. Unless it's the standard 12233 used on older cars?

Hi what vcds sugest in the hint baloon is 12345 which is not accepted, however 17575 works is accepted and was ok for me to do the other adaptations, but once i try to do the ash adaptation i get a error do to security code. This is the procedure i used:

2.0L CR TDI - Ross-Tech Wiki (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/2.0L_CR_TDI#Adaptation_of_Carbon_Mass_.28after_DPF _Replacement.29)

[Crasher]

It is S12345 and the upper case S is important.

[Ben_T]

I didn't see Crasher's post so I thought I'd re-trace my steps - S12345 works on my Ocativa. Hope the same's for a Superb :)

[N871BUD]

Cheers for that, i am pretty sure i did check that before but seems indeed being a S instead of s an i ve must of not used upper case.

Ash adaptation complete down to 1.00g.

Will update later on with how long it takes from now on in miles to regen.

[N871BUD]

Hi, time to update i gues 930 miles driven since changed with the clean one and about 700 since i managed to reset the ash... it got kind of hard to catch it doing a regen ... as it seems it happened only 3 times so far... ash content is displayed after almost 2 weeks 1.2grams and 700 miles.


Having a bit of headache to get the wheel aligment done after i dropped the subframe tho so if anyone atempts this make sure you have a place willing to slacken the subframe bolts to get the aligment right on the front. in the end i have a slightly more negative camber - 1˚ 14' and slightly of caster 6˚ 21' on front lefthand side.

[Crasher]

Or use subframe pegs

[Ben_T]

That's sounding good! If you don't mind me asking, do you know how much oil you've used in that mileage?

No joy with the piston ring cleaning for me - I tried spraying injector decarboniser through the glowplug holes, leaving to soak for many hours with the occasional hand-turn of the crank to help it work its way down. I could only do two cylinders (one glowplug snapped and couldn't be removed, another was also seized), but the oil consumption's the same. I was hoping it might halve at the very least!

[N871BUD]

That's sounding good! If you don't mind me asking, do you know how much oil you've used in that mileage?

No joy with the piston ring cleaning for me - I tried spraying injector decarboniser through the glowplug holes, leaving to soak for many hours with the occasional hand-turn of the crank to help it work its way down. I could only do two cylinders (one glowplug snapped and couldn't be removed, another was also seized), but the oil consumption's the same. I was hoping it might halve at the very least!


Not sure what exactly your asking but...

Since last service i topped up 600ml and now i am 3/4 between maximum and minimum on dipstick.
I have left 3500 miles till next oil change now.
My service interval is set to 9400 miles and i ussually do the oil change at about 8000 miles (i get annoyed of the message i get when it gets close to the oil change).
I replaced the dpf after the oil service at about 2500 miles if i am not wrong as i had 207k miles when i done the crankshaft seal and dropped the oil sump.

Before crankshaft seal and dpf replacement i was using about 700 ml for top up between oil changes every 8000 miles or so. but that was to keep it somewhere between 1/4 to 3/4 full on dipstick;
I think is more acurate to say that if i do a oil change and oil is in maximum on dipstick, i will top up at about 4500 miles after the change with 600ml to get it to 3/4 and at the next oil change would be close to 1/4 or just about and would need toping up but i do not care at that point as i am doing a oil change.
To be fair as i am doing the oil change i did not check to see how much i would actually need to get it up to the mark at that point.
I noticed while i had dpf off to put the clean one on that i have a slight play in turbo shaft, small but there... so i might lose a tiny fraction of oil through there maybe?
I also still have a oil leak, very small on the rocker cover around left back corner, around the bolt but that is minimal as i get some oil i suck it up with a corner of tissue every 2 weeks (not worth for me to pull injectors off and replace rocker cover gasket just yet as it very small).

Since dpf change i do not know what difference it makes in oil consumption but so far i would say it does not. The only thing that seems it affected oil ussage was the crankshaft seal sipping oil doing a mess in my undertray.

As far as i know on the tsi was a thing with oil consumption because of piston rings and the actual design of the pistons. So i pretty much doubt that is your problem.
Sorry to hear about your glow plugs did not had a issue with getting my one off at 125-128k miles with engine hot no problem tho i was worried as one is with pressure sensor.

[Roverfan]

What mileage are you getting between regens now? I cleaned my dpf about the same time but didn't make any changes onto the ECU yet. So far I got regens at 304 city miles, one that I missed the mileage of and then at 470 mainly motorway miles.

[N871BUD]

Anything between 300 and 500 miles ... one thing i noticed tho is regens do not seem to take 30 or so minutes anymore but rather 20 minuteshttps://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/images/blackpost/misc/pixel.gif (https://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=1147956) or just under. From getting 2 regens in a 50 miles trip and turning into a pain every time i wanted to stop as i did not want to stop the regens now i am hunting it to catch it regen...

About changes in the ecu.. as soon as i replaced my one with the clean one the diferential presures where all over the place and in some instances negative at idle...(hence those adaptations) resseting ash i am pretty sure is just a counter like a service interval for replacing/cleaning the dpf... the diferential pressures act on the regens as when and how long by the looks of it as someone said it here before.

ps my mpg went back up to 60-65mpg since the dpf was replaced as is not doing a regen that often before in the last months i was doing the best 52mpg.

[foru2justnv]

Hi all. Same issues, im getting intermittent p0402 code now. Regen every 70 miles city. Strange thing is i have vag dpf app and mine always goes up steady but then jumps 11-12g soot to a regen. So i can be 70 odd miles at 11g soot and then on a regen a mile later saying 24g of soot?
Anyone got any ideas on prices to get egr and dpf cleaned if they do removal and install?

[Crasher]

16786 (P0402) - EGR System - Excessive Flow

What is the VIN?