CAN BUS - Battery Drain - HELP!!

[iwadee]

Hi all

I've been having a battery drain problem on my car for months now and it has got progressively worse. I first noticed it in Feb, replaced the battery (it was on warranty), but if the car was left for a couple of days I'd need to jump it.
I only found this out when Covid started as I drove to work every day (20 min motorway journey). Working from home for a couple of days was when I spotted it.
I'm at a point now where I'm having to disconnect the battery after every journey. I'm also aware that constantly disconnecting it will no doubt cause more problems. If it's had it's motorway run, or driven for a while, even after 2-3 hours it'll go flat again. To the point where the electrics work, but not enough to start the car.

I've been to a couple of mechanics who frankly don't have the time to look at it properly. The error that has been coming up is the following : 00470 - Combination comfort Databus in Single Wire: Open Circuit
The first auto electrician I took it to said he spotted a drain and replaced the CAN BUS module, but within a day or two it was back to square one. The other garage spotted something similar and replaced another part (can't recall exactly what it was), but when I lock/unlock the car it makes a beeping sound, which never happened before. I know that you can change those settings when connected to VCDS/Carista etc.

I've also been told that it's a pain to find, as it takes a long time, testing different aspects/fuses etc. Obviously the time they spend on it adds to the bill and I don't want to keep throwing money at it.
Don't know if this is related, but my passenger and rear passenger window does not work from the driver console, but works from it's respective console. This happened in this time period, wasn't a problem before.

HELP!!!

[Crasher]

What is the cars year, is the radio the original and which part number CAN BUS did your chap fit?

[iwadee]

Hi Crasher

It's a 2005 (05 plate), original radio, and i don't know the part no. of the CAN BUS. However, I do recall installing a mp3/sd card player which connects to the back of the radio, but that was easily 2 years ago. Is the CAN BUS easy to get to, I could have a look after work/weekend?

[Crasher]

On the Golf 5 no, a right knuckle busting hand scratcher under the dash above the steering. We had a 2007 Jetta 5 in the other week, he had fitted additional parts to the OE head unit and the CAN BUS would not shut down so I fitted a new genuine unit and the problem stopped. CAN BUS units made before mid 2008 suffer this problem, you need the number off it which will come up with a code read.

[iwadee]

I have seen a couple of videos on where it is. Might give it a try later. What no. do you need off it exactly?
I don't have a reader either, borrowed it for a day.

[Crasher]

The VAG code prefixed with a three digit alphanumeric code such as 1K0, then 907 530 as the second and third group of numerals followed by one or two letters AND possibly a "colour" code such as Z00 so for example 1K0 907 530 or 7N0 907 530 BH Z00 which are actually the first to the current numbers with dozens of versions in between.

[iwadee]

After much wiggling and neck breaking, I think I've found it!

3C0 937 049 E - I've attached a pic, you can just about make the digits.

37329

[VAG-Abound]

I seem to have something steadily draining the battery. If I leave a multimeter plugged in place of the fuse for the convenience control circuit it takes a few hundred mA even after car is locked for an hour or so. Could be a door module, sunroof, etc so a bit fiddly to track down. Car is infrequently used, hence the slow drain means no start when it is needed.

My temporary solution is to put a CTEC battery charger / conditioner on it when not being driven. That's working very well in terms of me not having to think of a reason to go for a longish drive every few days to keep battery happy.

[VAG-Abound]

Getting an auto electrician to track down the drain can indeed be expensive and leave you without the car for a good while. If you're happy with basic electrics I can guide you through how I pinned down roughly where my drain was...

Using a cheap-ish multi meter (£10 at Screwfix) I firstly put it in the circuit between positive battery post and the cable that normally clamps there measuring high-current (10A) amps. If the draw is higher than the MM fuse limit it's going to pop it. Don't try to start car with this in place as it'll fry something. Closed up bonnet and car (otherwise something may stay awake), and checked it was indeed drawing a current an hour or so later.

I then got the engine bay fuse numbers for the circuits that feed other likely places, and tracked it down to one of those by putting MM in place of each fuse in turn. In my case the circuit feeding part of the under-dash ones was the culprit. Discovering which under-dash locations show 0V when the engine bay fuse is pulled tells you which ones to test for parasitic drain. So engine fuse back in and then pull each of the relevant under dash fuses in turn, seeing if drain at battery goes away.

This will disable some likely culprits like lock circuits, so you can't test them effectively. I got a pair of 4mm banana plugs, a couple of metres each of blue and brown of 2.5mm flexible wire stripped from an old appliance lead and a pair of mid-sized crimp on blade terminals to make up leads that could slot in place of under-dash fuse, so was then able to test the remaining few for drain while the circuit is still functioning.

[iwadee]

Thanks for that. It's gone in one last time to the garage, I've told him that I don't want to be throwing any more money at it.
Besides this issue, the car runs relatively fine. It does have 175 on the clock and I'm aware that I may not have that long left.
I've re-read your last post a few times, but electrics isn't my strength I'm afraid...!

Will let you guys know if he finds anything.

[iwadee]

No change, garage spent a couple of hours and couldn't find anything, looked in the commonly offending places.
I've seen/read elsewhere about an isolation switch - anyone know or have experience with this?

[iwadee]

Update - He couldn't find anything, checked in the normal offending spots, spent a couple of hours on it. We decided not to spend any more time on it as it will just keep costing more money.

Does anyone have any experience on isolating switches, that has also been mentioned to me? Fitting it inside the vehicle, saves opening the bonnet every time.

Thanks

[VAG-Abound]

It's hard to fit them effectively in the cabin as its a very chunky cable, and ideally more chunky the further longer you make it. Also hard to fit safely as by definition it carries a high current to start engine so can't be fused to a level which is safe if there should happen to be a short circuit. Even in engine ones need careful fitting to avoid fire risk.

Do you really not want to get a multimeter and track it down yourself? I'll perhaps do some pics to help guide you.

[Crasher]

I am surprised he could not track it down, using a multimeter with a 10amp current range it is very simple for someone with rudimentary knowledge of car electrics to establish the overall current drain and then begin the simple but tedious job of isolating the particar circuit. Fuse current testers (remember there are two main sizes) are very useful, the https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637203095/automotive-current-tester-20a---standard-blade-fuse even shows them using it on the Golf 5 type PQ35 under bonnet fuse box.

[iwadee]

I can buy a multi-meter and give it shot, and yes pics would be helpful.

@ Crasher - both mechanics said they'd narrowed it down to the CAN BUS area, that's all I know. I'm guessing that they did the MM test, pulling out the fuses, but I can only take their word for it!

Thanks for all of your help :)

[Crasher]

If they pulled a fuse and recorded a drop they should have told you which fuse.

[iwadee]

That makes sense. Will get one today and see how I get on. Need to watch a few guides on how to do it properly.

[VAG-Abound]

Post a few more details like engine code, model / reg year and a picture of the in-engine fuse layout if you can. That'll help guide you on which slots to look at.

In-engine box will probably look like one of these, just say which if a photo is too hard to load:

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=37339&d=1598181624

[iwadee]

Will do thanks. It's a 2005 plate, 2.0 TDI. I'll get the rest of the details when I get home, as it's sat on the drive disconnected.
If my battery is dead and I need to jump it again, a) do i go for a 20 min spin to charge it up again, or can I leave it running for the same amount of time?
b) how long after I switch the engine off do I start doing the MM test?

[VAG-Abound]

If the battery has drained a couple of times it may already be in poor health, and a quick spin to get some chrage to then (probably) drain it again while finding tbe problem circuit will not help things. I'd again suggest getting a CTEC charger / conditioner to get it as good as it can be, tell you if it is past usable, and in the case where whatever the problem is doesn't make sense to repair straightt away can keep the battery happy between uses.

In the meantime, a good long single-start drive with no headlamps on way well get enough charge in battery to get started on tracking things down, depending on size of leak current.

I close car up and lool at current a half hour later. Others flick the bonnet and door latches so car think it is closed up and goes to sleep.

[iwadee]

Got the MM yesterday but didn't get a chance to test.

Do I charge the battery properly with the GTEC charger (still need to order) and then carry out what you've advised, if it already may be in poor health? The battery is less than 6 months old, but I suppose it's hard to tell how much damage has been done. Whenever I've reconnected the battery, it has enough for the windows/radio etc, but just never enough to start the car, so not totally dead.

If you could suggest a simple vid to watch on how to do it, (I've watched a couple), but don't want to over-complicate methods on how to carry out the fuse testing?

Thanks

[VAG-Abound]

I haven't had chance to do pics yet, but to get started...

Firstly, all at your own risk, etc. If it all looks too daunting or confusing just stop. No point starting a fire or causing other damage.

Whenever working near the battery keep double checking that you don't have loose wires or tools that can bridge positive to negative, or to random bits of car. That'll short the battery and be a fire risk.

Key thing to remember is the car shuts down when it thinks your done for the day, so closing doors and bonnet plus locking need to be done to get a realistic view of what parked drain there is.

The MM will have a 20V range. See what the battery is charged at by placing the MM probes directly across the battery. It should be over 13V with a really healthy battery after it has had a good run to charge up. Something like 12.5V may sound close, but is already poor (but should be enough for the current tests). The more you abuse it the less chance of it managing to recover. The charger / conditioner will help - but it may be beyond practical use unless you take to using the charger as life support after each trip out. If you only use the car infrequently that may be fine. Or it may have survived the abuse and once you get back to regular use with no drain it'll be OK.

Step 1 is to set the MM to 10A range with leads in the right place. This is usually a different, unfused connection on the MM, so be careful when it is selected as it will tend to pop car fuses if placed in the wrong path. Connect it between car battery negative post and the disconnected -ve lead. Lead end should be quite easy as you can pinch probe between slot in clamp, or the nut that closes it. Battery end will need a bit of wire wrapped around MM probe tip and then around the battery post, or similar. You can also do this at positive end if easier, but be double sure you aren't creating any shorts with flapping wires. If you happen to have a hi-fi stereo / speakers with 4mm "banana" plus you could make up alternative leads with loose wire ends that will fit MM and be easier to attach to car.

Bring leads carefully through gap around bonnet, close bonnet and put MM on it. Then close car up as if parking. You should see current reading moving around a bit as things do a final check and go to sleep. 20 mins later it should be stable, and hopefully just a few hundred mA, like 0.500 Amps. That is the leak current, and once we know it is in the path being measured can try pulling fuses to get it lower. If it is low enough you can switch to using the MM "low current" ranges which are fused and somewhat safer to use. Identify the fuse layout type and we can pick a few key candidates to try.

[Crasher]

Just to emphasise your point, when you change from amps to volts checking, remember to move the test lead to the correct port or you will blow the MM internal fuse.

[iwadee]

Cheers for that, I think I can get my head wrapped around that. I'll carry on watching some tutorials just to be sure.
Engine is a BKD one.
Below is a pic of the under bonnet fuse box, I don't know what, if any are missing...!

3734237342

[VAG-Abound]

Great.

To save too much typing of fuse layouts and possibly confusing each other, once you can see the residual current measuring with the MM in the battery circuit try the following. After each one lock car up and see if MM reading is noticeably lower after 20 mins. If it is then put connection / fuse back and check original "bad" current returns, and then remove it and measure again to check for consistency. If it has no effect put the connection / fuse back and move to next step.

- One of 100A and 80A fuses you'll see if you look at the vertical front of the engine fuse holder feeds lots of bits of cabin equipment (via the other fuse board in the cabin). It should be number 5 or number 6 counting from the left - and these are the two to left and right of the big red wire. Detach the cable at 5 and 6 one at a time and bend clear of where they bolted on (or stick a wooden / plastic clothes peg on them to separate). Put them both back and move on if no change.

- Remove 4 to 6 fuses from the top of the fuse tray. Close and measure. If no change replace all and move to next group to remove. If there is a change replace 2 of them, then 2 more, etc until "bad" reading returns - then remove one of the last pair in turn to see which has the effect. Once you think you know which one it is put everything else back in and make a couple of in / out measurements to check for consistency.

By the end of that you'll hopefully know which engine fuse is involved, and then we can look at what it is feeding.

[iwadee]

Thanks again. Will try it at the weekend most likely when I get some time to myself. Weather has been dreadful today :-O

[iwadee]

OK, so I managed to get a reading for the voltage via the MM, nice and simple. Put the lead in the V-ohms-mA port, flick the dial to 20V and it tells me its 12.5ish and then 14 when car is started.

My issue is that I have no 10A setting, only 5A (see attached pic). I connected the -ve MM lead to the -ve battery post and the +ve MM lead to the disconnected -ve lead.
I flicked the dial to 5, but it just says zero. Are my settings on the MM wrong?
37358

[VAG-Abound]

If you open the car door then you ought to get a fairly distinctive non-zero reading on the 5A scale. The interior roof light (just one lamp, not all of them) should be around 2A or less. If it can't light up with the MM in place but can with battert connected normally then there is something wrong with MM 5A setting. Do leads fit in snug and deep on front?

[iwadee]

I didn't open the door or test anything for that matter.
Yes the leads fit snug, I suppose if there was something wrong (with the leads or the socket) then it wouldn't have been able to read the voltage?
A guy at work has a MM that I can borrow, but I'm next in on Wed.
Anything else I can test and with it not having a 10A setting, should that 5A be enough for the testing?

[iwadee]

Hi guys

So I finally got round to doing the fuse tests with a MM with a 10A setting. The reading on the MM when connected up was fluctuating between 0.74-0.79.
F25 and F26 (40A fuses) (from under the bonnet) seemed to be the culprits, but only when taken out together. Individually, it didn't move on the MM, but together it went down to 0.02. So I don't know if the both are linked somehow?
There was also a small fluctuation with a 5A fuse from F2, but nowhere near the drop with F25 and F26 removed.

Thanks

[VAG-Abound]

They feed a lot of things via other fuses. See if fuses 40, 41, 46, 48, and 49 in the cabin have any effect.

[iwadee]

I checked all the fuses inside as well and no drops. I can check them again?

[VAG-Abound]

I checked all the fuses inside as well and no drops. I can check them again?


Let's try and avoid that then.

For completeness in case it helps spot something, what is the engine code (usually on a sticker on passenger side door frame, like AZV) and is it 2- or 4-door?

Seems strange you have to pull them both to eliminate drain as they feed pretty different things. The common thing is that they run to the supply control unit under the dash, and from there to supply various equipment either directly or via smaller fuses. If that unit has had water in it or damaged cables both paths could be leaking due to a common cause.

As a sanity check when fuse 25 is in place you should get 12V on the supply side of each of the fuses listed above: 40, etc. Set MM to 20V, ensure leads are plugged in to match, put -ve probe onto somewhere earthed (bare screw head under seat or "liner" of cigarette socket) and +ve probe to fuse holder (you'll probably find slot 48 is empty but has a piece of metal on one side - use that). Do you see 12V? Then pull fuse 25 and see if the 12V goes away. If so the we're looking at the correct wiring diagrams :).

Pulling all those fuses listed above is then the same as pulling fuse 25. If it doesn't also make current drop to zero I think you have a problem in that supply control unit area. Are you aware of water ever getting in around the steering wheel side?

[iwadee]

Hi VAG-Abound (and others!)

Apologies for the delayed response. It's a BKD engine and it's a 4 door (2005, 2.0TDI).

I've not had any water damage that I know of or coming in near the steering wheel. Over the weekend, I did remove an audio type device that I'd fitted a few years ago, it allowed me to play USB, MicroSD etc. Never had a problem with it, but thought I'd remove it anyway if I'll be getting rid of the car soon. I'll post a picture of the cable that came out of the console once I'd finished.

The only work I've had done done on the driver side in recent years is the window needed replacing as it just stopped dead one day and would go up. Once the window was replaced, it was never quite the same or as smooth going up/down as before and weirdly the door also dropped a few mm, enough to spot. Took it back to the mechanic several times, but he couldn't fix it.

I'm digressing, I will try what you suggested with the fuses listed and see what happens. After that I'm ready to throw in the towel :-(

[TdiBlacky140]

Hi VAG-Abound (and others!)

Apologies for the delayed response. It's a BKD engine and it's a 4 door (2005, 2.0TDI).

I've not had any water damage that I know of or coming in near the steering wheel. Over the weekend, I did remove an audio type device that I'd fitted a few years ago, it allowed me to play USB, MicroSD etc. Never had a problem with it, but thought I'd remove it anyway if I'll be getting rid of the car soon. I'll post a picture of the cable that came out of the console once I'd finished.

The only work I've had done done on the driver side in recent years is the window needed replacing as it just stopped dead one day and would go up. Once the window was replaced, it was never quite the same or as smooth going up/down as before and weirdly the door also dropped a few mm, enough to spot. Took it back to the mechanic several times, but he couldn't fix it.

I'm digressing, I will try what you suggested with the fuses listed and see what happens. After that I'm ready to throw in the towel :-(

This was interesting, have you given up or are you still trying to tackle it?

[iwadee]

I've more or less given up :-(
Just need to remove the full tank of fuel I filled up before the car really started dying....to make matters worse, I fired the car up over the weekend and left it running for a while, to then be greeted with a pool of coolant on the floor....*argh* that's never happened before.

Once the fuel is out, I'll be selling it for spares, or a project or worse case the scrap :aargh4:

[VAG-Abound]

I was saying above that those two engine fuses feed different parts of the car via the shared control box. Did you look in there to see if there were signs of corrosion, dead mouse, etc? Did we try pulling each relay to see what was happening on its switching and supply side?

[Crasher]

I never give up, they have to drag me away kicking a screaming from the car clutching lap top and multimeter... I am fighting nightmare CAN BUS issues on a 2015 Altea at the moment. This computer aided diagnosis is all well and good but if the modelus won't talk or give nonsensical codes they it's a sketch. I mean, look at this report; half the devices VCDS says are OK don't even communicate and ODIS would have none of it.


VCDS
Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 7 x86
VCDS Version: Release 20.4.2 Data version: 20200730 DS317.0
www.Ross-Tech.com
Dealer/Shop Name: C&R Enterprises
Workshop Code: 210 01523 000002
Self-Diagnosis Log
Friday,21,August,2020,09:39:13:16454
VIN: VSSZZZ5PZFR****** License Plate:
Mileage: 44630km-27731mi Repair Order: Full scan

Chassis Type: 5P-SE35 (7N0)

Scan: 01 03 08 09 10 15 16 17 19 25 2E 37 42 44 46 52 56 61 62 72

VIN: VSSZZZ5PZFR011914 Mileage: 44630km-27731miles

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: Malfunction 0010
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: Malfunction 0010
15-Airbags -- Status: Malfunction 0010
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: Malfunction 0010
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
2E-Media Player 3 -- Status: Malfunction 0010
37-Navigation -- Status: Malfunction 0010
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
61-Battery Regul. -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine (J623-CAYC) Labels:. 03L-906-023-CAY.clb
Part No SW: 03L 997 558 F HW: 03L 906 023 KL
Component: R4 1.6l TDI H43 9982
Revision: --H43--- Serial number:
Coding: 00114036032501080000
Shop #: WSC 00049 770 00126
ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM16TDI02103L997558F 003003
ROD: GV_ECM16TDI021PQ36.rod
VCID: 40CC49CFDBC3858653-8014
7 Faults Found:
6056 - No Communications with HVAC Control Module (J301)
U0164 00 [047] - -
Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 11
Mileage: 44613 km
Date: 2020.08.20
Time: 00:00:46
Engine speed: 0.00 /min
Normed load value: 0.0 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 19 °C
Intake air temperature: 20 °C
Ambient air pressure: 990 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 14.231 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Driver request torque-TQI_DRIV_SUB: 0.00 Nm
Control Module temperature-TECU: 27 °C
6082 - Steering Column Control Module
U0212 00 [047] - No Communications
Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 11
Mileage: 44613 km
Date: 2020.08.20
Time: 00:00:46
Engine speed: 0.00 /min
Normed load value: 0.0 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 19 °C
Intake air temperature: 20 °C
Ambient air pressure: 990 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.327 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
7318 - Body Control Module (Central Electric)
U0140 00 [047] - No Communications
Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 44613 km
Date: 2020.08.20
Time: 00:01:43
Engine speed: 799.50 /min
Normed load value: 28.6 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 20 °C
Intake air temperature: 19 °C
Ambient air pressure: 990 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.214 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Driver request torque-TQI_DRIV_SUB: 0.00 Nm
Control Module temperature-TECU: 28 °C
7319 - Body Control Module (Central Electric)
U0140 00 [047] - No Communications
Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 44613 km
Date: 2020.08.20
Time: 00:01:40
Engine speed: 822.75 /min
Normed load value: 30.2 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 19 °C
Intake air temperature: 19 °C
Ambient air pressure: 990 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 11.972 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Driver request torque-TQI_DRIV_SUB: 0.00 Nm
Control Module temperature-TECU: 27 °C
7455 - Door Control Module - Driver's Door
U0199 00 [047] - No Communications
Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 44613 km
Date: 2020.08.20
Time: 00:00:46
Engine speed: 0.00 /min
Normed load value: 0.0 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 19 °C
Intake air temperature: 20 °C
Ambient air pressure: 990 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 14.231 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Driver request torque-TQI_DRIV_SUB: 0.00 Nm
Control Module temperature-TECU: 27 °C
11831 - Function Restricted due to Missing Message(s)
U1111 00 [047] - -
Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 44613 km
Date: 2020.08.20
Time: 00:00:46
Engine speed: 0.00 /min
Normed load value: 0.0 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 19 °C
Intake air temperature: 20 °C
Ambient air pressure: 990 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 14.231 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
10457 - Control Circuit for Starter Relay 2
P3049 00 [038] - Open Circuit
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 44632 km
Date: 2020.08.21
Time: 01:05:50
Engine speed: 780.75 /min
Normed load value: 29.4 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 83 °C
Intake air temperature: 35 °C
Ambient air pressure: 980 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.440 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Engine speed: 781 /min
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Battery voltage: 13.4 V
Status of starter activation-FRF_ST_RL: 1
Sensor for engine block temperature: raw value
Coolant temperature
Number of resets of main unit-CTR_RST_MC: 0
Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels:. 1K0-907-379-60EC1F.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 BS HW: 1K0 907 379 BS
Component: ESP MK60EC1 H46 0166
Revision: 00H46001
Coding: 233F4012092300FBC41402E5901D0091A1000021
Shop #: WSC 00049 770 00126
VCID: 044485DF875B59A637-8050
3 Faults Found:
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 53
Mileage: 44613 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2020.08.20
Time: 13:24:13
Freeze Frame:
Count: 7
Count: 15
Count: 4608
Count: 128
Count: 27136
Count: 0
Count: 0
Count: 0
01325 - Control Module for Tire Pressure Monitoring (J502)
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 54
Mileage: 44613 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2020.08.19
Time: 20:52:04
N Freeze Frame:
Count: 2
Count: 14
Count: 4608
Count: 16390
Count: 41728
Count: 0
Count: 0
Count: 0

00457 - Central Electronics Control Module / BCM (J519)
008 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 13
Mileage: 44613 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2020.08.19
Time: 20:52:07
Freeze Frame:
Count: 0
Count: 14
Count: 4608
Count: 8262
Count: 41728
Count: 0
Count: 0
Count: 0
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC
Cannot be reached
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect.
Cannot be reached
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 10: Park/Steer Assist (J446) Labels:. 3C8-919-475.clb
Part No SW: 5P0 919 475 C HW: 8P0 919 475 N
Component: PARKHILFE 8K H08 0008
Revision: -------- Serial number: 12531433900130
Coding: 100002
Shop #: WSC 00049 770 00126
VCID: 3B363E23BA25E65E06-806E
4 Faults Found:
01543 - Parking Aid Warning Chime (H15)
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101001
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 55
Mileage: 0 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
Temperature: 17.0°C
01625 - Front Parking Aid Warning Chime (H22)
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101001
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 55
Mileage: 0 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
Temperature: 17.0°C
00446 - Function Limitation due to Under-Voltage
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 53
Mileage: 44613 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2020.08.20
Time: 13:23:58
Freeze Frame:
Temperature: 21.0°C
00466 - Control Module for Steering Column Electronics (J527)
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 13
Mileage: 44613 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2020.08.19
Time: 20:52:04
Freeze Frame:
Temperature: 20.0°C
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 1K0-909-605.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 909 605 T HW: 1K0 909 605 T
Component: 0Z AIRBAG VW8 020 2300
Revision: 05020000 Serial number: 0038PD308DVI
Coding: 0012378
Shop #: WSC 00049 770 00126
VCID: 3D32303B6431E86E38-8068
Subsystem 1 - Serial number: 6332MSME4A6A1722D
Subsystem 2 - Serial number: 6342MSME4A6A1449K
Subsystem 3 - Serial number: 6351HSME304E47458
Subsystem 4 - Serial number: 6361HSME304E42454
1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel
Cannot be reached
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments (J285) Labels:* 1K0-920-xxx-17.lbl-SRI1
Part No SW: 5P0 920 950 B HW: 5P0 920 950 B
Component: KOMBI H02 0905
Serial number: 00000000000000
Coding: 410B01
Shop #: WSC 00049 770 00106
ASAM Dataset: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09 A04727
ROD: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09_SK46.rod
VCID: 302C190F6B631506A3-8064
4 Faults Found:
12664832 - Function Restricted due to Missing Message(s)
U1111 00 [009] - -
[Steuergerät für BCM / Bordnetz / el. ZE: keine
Kommunikation]
Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 13
Mileage: 44613 km
Date: 2020.08.19
Time: 20:54:06
12718592 - Function Restricted due to Missing Message(s)
U1111 00 [009] - -
[Steuergerät für Lenksäulenelektronik: keine Kommunikation]
Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 23
Reset counter: 16
Mileage: 44613 km
Date: 2020.08.19
Time: 20:54:06
13631488 - Function Restricted due to Missing Message(s)
U1111 00 [009] - -
[Steuergerät für Komfortsysteme: keine Kommunikation]
Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 22
Reset counter: 16
Mileage: 44613 km
Date: 2020.08.19
Time: 20:54:06
13635840 - Supply voltage
U1011 00 [008] - Voltage too Low
[Supply voltage too low]
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 9
Reset counter: 55
Mileage: 44613 km
Date: 2020.08.19
Time: 23:09:57
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels:. 7N0-907-530-V2.clb
Part No SW: 7N0 907 530 AQ HW: 7N0 907 530 AL
Component: J533 Gateway H58 1653
Revision: H58 Serial number: 081214F1002090
Coding: 352203
Shop #: WSC 00049 770 00126
VCID: 7F4E0A33EEBD3A7E6A-802A
2 Faults Found:
01336 - Company Data Bus for Comfort System
014 - Defective
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101110
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 44613 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2020.08.20
Time: 14:34:13
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 6
Reset counter: 55
Mileage: 44613 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2020.08.20
Time: 14:45:42
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 25: Immobilizer (J334) Labels:| 5K0-920-xxx-25.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 953 234 HW: 5K0 953 234
Component: IMMO H02 0905
Serial number:
Coding: 000000
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
ASAM Dataset: EV_Immo_UDS_VDD_RM09 A03710
ROD: EV_Immo_UDS_VDD_RM09_VW31.rod
VCID: 6A98CB678D3FAFD6AD-803E
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 2E: Media Player 3
Cannot be reached
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 37: Navigation (J794) Labels:| 1K0-035-27x-37.clb
Part No SW: 5P0 035 192 H HW: 5P0 035 192 H
Component: RNS315-EU H85 0501
Serial number: SEZAZ2P0608483
Coding: 040004010404000000000002
Shop #: WSC 00049 770 00106
ASAM Dataset: EV_RNS315EUV2UDS 001705
ROD: EV_RNS315EUV2UDS.rod
VCID: 312A1C0B60691C0EAC-8064
Data medium:
Subsystem 1 - Part No: 3AA 919 866
Component: EUR_W_V7 0066
2 Faults Found:
1048578 - Supply voltage
U1011 00 [008] - Voltage too Low
[supply voltage lower limit exceeded]
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 9
Reset counter: 55
Mileage: 44613 km
Date: 2020.08.19
Time: 23:10:28
1048580 - Function Restricted due to Insufficient Voltage
U1400 00 [008] - -
[restriction due to under voltage]
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 8
Reset counter: 55
Mileage: 44613 km
Date: 2020.08.19
Time: 16:42:38
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 42: Door Elect, Driver
Cannot be reached
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 1K0-909-14x-GEN3.clb
Part No: 1K0 909 144 R
Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl. 65 3501
Revision: 00H22000
Shop #: WSC 00049 770 00126
VCID: 393A242B7019D44E14-806C
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.
Cannot be reached
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 52: Door Elect, Pass.
Cannot be reached
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 61: Battery Regul. (J840) Labels:. 1K0-907-534.clb
Part No SW: 7N0 907 534 HW: 7N0 907 530 AL
Component: Batt.regelung H58 1653
Serial number: 081214F1002090
Coding: 030F185A
Shop #: WSC 00049 770 00126
VCID: 71AADC0BA8E95C0EEC-8024
Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 1K0 915 181 H HW: 1K0 915 181 A
Component: J367-BDM H07 0180
Serial number: 41344825511491186872
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 62: Door, Rear Left
Cannot be reached
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 72: Door, Rear Right
Cannot be reached
End----------(Elapsed Time: 00:50, VBatt start/end: 14.0V/14.0V)---------


So far, new AGM battery, power relays, central electrics system and CAN BUS-no different... I can't even get into the central electrics to code it!

[iwadee]

That's madness!! Way beyond my level of jiggery pokery. Your car is 5yrs old and 28k on the clock and mine is 15 with 175K on the clock!
I just don't have the time to keep messing around with it, is the honest truth and need a car for work (out of town), not working from home in this Covid madness.

Normally I'll do whatever I can, but it's time vs money too.
@ VAG-Abound - Shared control box (blonde moment....I don't know where that is?!) and I've pulled the relays from under the bonnet and fuses from next to the steering wheel to check for current drops, but that's it. Not done anything else.

You're more than happy to take it off my hands :-)

[Crasher]

Not my car, a customers. Eventually I took note of the event he related to me when it went wrong, that he saw smoke come out of the passengers front door lock. When I stripped it down I found this

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50411118067_f1b077e97e_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jNEa74)

From what I could see the harness had been trapped between the window guide and the door shell and the conduit guide which is supposed to prevent this was not clipped into the door shell... I think this is a manufacturers game defect from new. That this can happen by human error is understandable, people screw up, but quality control not picking it up is much less acceptable. What is wholly unacceptable is that this fault can completely shut the cars electrics down leaving only the engine running with hazards, headlights and radio the only things working. The CAN BUS and body control module were damaged by battery voltage going up the CAN wiring and his bill around £1100.

I called Seat customers services to see if they were interested in seeing pictures and they did not want to know or be able to tell me who would be so I am compiling a ministry defect report.

[VAG-Abound]

Sorry, I've lost track of where we were.

There's a relay box under the dash. If you can see that and take a picture of the relays in it then it might jog my memory on what was next.

[Crasher]

Sorry, me going off piste and ranting :rant:

[iwadee]

Not a problem mate. I'm just at a point now where I'm going to get rid of the car, it's been sat for about a month, I've jumped it a couple of times, but I physically don't have the time to mess around with it, I've been back to work full time for 5 weeks and get home just before dark. Checked the voltage drops for each fuse a while back and found that F25+F26 (from under the hood) when both removed brought it back down to zero.

[iwadee]

Wowsers! I wish I had that kind of time and money to spend but £1100 is alot! I think some of the guys that I've been to would be fed up trying to resolve it too.

The only thing I can think of is that the driver window was replaced a couple of years ago. It's never been as smooth as the other windows going up and down but still works. Unfortunately I don't have the tools to take the door apart myself, and check if there's anything there. I believe you do the front skin/panel on the Mk5's.
Nor can I recollect anything in particular that may have triggered this event. It only came to light at the beginning of lock-down (in Feb) when I was working from home 3 days a week and in the office 2 days. That's when it first died and needed a jump, and subsequently the same would happen each week unless I took it for a drive :-(

[Crasher]

I have a forum members 2012 Passat CC in which has an intermittent battery drain so high that it will drain a brand new fully charged Yuasa 9096 battery to nothing in less than two hours... so much of a drain that when it happens it blows the 10amp fuse in my multimeter!

[VAG-Abound]

That's 120W-~400W of heat going somewhere! An infra-red camera should spot it easily! Or turn the lights out and look for a dull, red glow!!!

[Crasher]

I am surprised I haven't seem smoke! I have ordered an clamp meter curent shunt for tomorrow so I can pull fuses and hair at the same time.

[VAG-Abound]

At that rate of draw putting the volt measurement across the metal peek-points on the fuse should give a meaningful reading: Fuse Voltage Drop Charts (https://powerprobe.squarespace.com/fuse-voltage-drop-charts).

[Crasher]

A clamp meter will be easier, I have got **** loads other work to do and I would like to know the actual draw rather than trying to do it by Ohm's Law.

[jonathanfenton]

Ive had 3 emails about this post from tapatalk now so thought i'd have a flick through it. You say rear windows aren't working from drivers door switches and your can bus is in single wire mode.... Sounds like the drivers door loom is shorting out to me. Sorry if you've covered/checked this but my A3 8PA (BKD Engine) has had 2 driver door looms now as the wires keep going brittle and snapping and i kept getting same code. Have you pulled the rubber covers back and checked for snapped wires?