A3 2.0L TDI Maintenance Thread

[futtret]

Apologies if similar thread already exists - I'll delete it if so (if possible)

I have a 2015 plate A3 2.0L TDI 184PS front wheel drive, 26500 miles - I typically do 7000 miles per year - so will be ~42000 miles in 2 years time.
Currently thinking to trade-in (offered £12500) or keep, depending on expected maintenance costs for next two or three years.
Can anyone help with typical £££ issues expected to arise with this model, other than routine MOT & servicing (oil/brake fluid/coolant)?

So far I've got:

Replace all brake discs & pads very soon (£600) - Brake discs now making scraping noise due to rust - still plenty thickness left on discs, maybe ~5mm on front pads
Brake caliper replacement likely?
Shock Absorber replacement likely?
Timing belt change not yet done & not required until 133,000 odd miles (albeit UK dealers like to tell us every 5 years....)
Spark plugs not applicable
Fuel filter not req'd til 57000 miles
DPF not required til 133000 miles
Read problems on other forums regarding heater only giving out cold air due to problems with heater matrix
Anything else gratefully received


Should I get DPF cleaned?? As it does regularly go into limp mode, need to stop and restart her & take for a run - aware that low mileage doesn't help that.

Can anyone confirm that Haldex Coupling Oil change is only applicable to the four-wheel drive version? The Audi manual isn't clear on that.

Cheers
Hope it helps others to forward plan

[vag_tech]

That timing belt is probably due at 5 years. Be careful.

[futtret]

That timing belt is probably due at 5 years. Be careful.

Why would that be? Genuine question. No mention of 5 year intervals from Audi themselves.
Any thoughts on my other points?

Cheers

[vag_tech]

Why would that be? Genuine question. No mention of 5 year intervals from Audi themselves.
Any thoughts on my other points?

Cheers

If you PM reg - I'll double check interval against manufactures schedule. VAG generally always quote a mileage/time allowance.

[vag_tech]

Manufacturer-specified interval confirmed:
Timing belt - Renew - Every 140000 miles or 60 months. Your vehicle has engine code: CUNA.

[VAG-Abound]

Irrespective of the debate on aging of belt due to time and heat rather than mileage I take the view that if there's a fair chance you'll need it sometime in the next few years of ownership do it now. No point delaying it a year and only getting (say) one year of worry free driving from it when you could change it now and get two years.

I wouldn't expect calipers to need doing until a decade or longer old. One on our 2003 Touran is now sticking a bit. Discs may well be OK for another few years at the mileage you do. Pads perhaps will need a change. Shocks and springs will depend somewhat on roads, but fair chance they will last quite a bit longer.

As you hint at re the heater matrix, an unexpected, vehicle specific fault is more likely to sway the economics of keep / swap than any regular maintenance item. But newer cars can have those after a few years as well.

[Sibmets]

Only 4motion (4 wheel drive) models have haldex, so If Yours is FWD - it's not applicable to You.

Audi A4 B9 3.0 TDi quattro 200 kw

[Crasher]

The heater matrix used in the MQB platform (A3 8V, Golf 7 etc) is a joke, thankfully it is not a dash out job to replace.

[futtret]

2015 2.0L TDI 26500 miles
Failed MOT due to cracked rear coil spring, asked to see it, was cracked right at bottom connection to axle/chassis. £83 fully fitted.

Now planning a DIY oil & filter change.
The filter is an awkward location - accessed from underneath, upside down behind the radiator fan
Need to unclip 2 or 3 cable clips to get an extended socket (32mm socket) on it

Can anyone confirm whether the oil filter should be drained & removed BEFORE or AFTER removing the plug from the main sump and whether there is a reason for said sequence?

My proposal is:

- Open the oil cap on top of engine (to prevent a vaccum when draining oil out the bottom)
- Remove the plug from the filter housing, to drain the oil sitting in the filter
- Remove the filter housing & filter
- Replace & fully reinstall the filter & its housing, c/w new lubricated seal on housing & on plug
- Remove plug from main sump & drain oil
- Install new plug in main sump

Thoughts & comments welcome
Cheers

[futtret]

Irrespective of the debate on aging of belt due to time and heat rather than mileage.....
Has anyone here actually seen a 5 year old VAG timing belt and had any cause for concern on its inspection?
Just as an observation, I note that for a 2.0tdi Ford Focus, it's due for replacement at 100k miles or 10 years.
Ford must have a better supplier of reinforced rubber :D or are trying to use that as a 'selling point', i.e. less maintenance costs.



Discs may well be OK for another few years at the mileage you do.
Advisory from MoT
They will need replaced within a year
I think the lack of mileage is part of the problem - it allows the corrosion take hold, rather than getting ground off by regular braking.

[futtret]

2015 S-line 31500 miles:

Went to start car, pressed clutch, clutch landed on the floor.
Little bit of research on youtube seems to suggest the master cylinder plastic shaft (aka laughing arm) likely broken after similar mileage, although the you tube vids are for an 8P engine rather than 8V engine, I think??
VW Scirocco Clutch Pedal Stuck To Floor - Master or Slave Cylinder Diagnosis How To DIY Golf A3 Leon - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDcw5Kh5ceE) and Audi A3 no clutch... Fault finding and repair. READ DESCRIPTION! - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvgvwtFpVEI)

Struggling to get my silver heatshield fabric out of the way when looking under bonnet, but from what I can see so far, my A3 S-line looks a bit different to those videos - is that cos its an 8V engine and videos maybe 8P engines?

Any other thoughts as to likely faults , i.e master or slave cylinders?

[Crasher]

For pre 26-05-14 production, the master cylinder is troublesome, the part has been revised but there are a few mountings parts required which are genuine only

https://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/blob:https://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/afdc13bd-4267-4d09-822e-c26eade0de91

[futtret]

Slave cylinder cracked.
£950 repair bill, not dealership, 7hrs labour.
Enough to put me off VAG now tbh - pretty disappointing at 30k miles.

New clutch kit £265
Gearbox oil £35
New 'bearing' £45 (necessary?)

Flywheel OK acc to garage.
Should i expect further problems with clutch imminent?

[Crasher]

The slave cylinder is the bearing, typically you would get an LUK four piece kit (inc DMF) for circa £1k, not fitting a new DMF is something we would simply refuse to do.

[futtret]

The heater matrix used in the MQB platform (A3 8V, Golf 7 etc) is a joke, thankfully it is not a dash out job to replace.

Well, here we are...
2015 A3 2.0 tdi, 8VA, CUNA engine, 184bhp, 43000miles

My internal heating has generally stopped working (hot air not working, cold air fine), it gives out a slight luke warmth if blower on lowest level. Doesn't appear to using much if any coolant. Engine temperature sitting at 90degrees as normal.

Crasher, when you said the matrix was a joke, is it the matrix design that can't cope with the silica clogging it up, or is the problem being the silica sachet in my coolant reservoir, or is it residual sand in the system from manufacture.....
Maybe you meant that the location of the matrix was a joke?

Anyway, what to do?
New matrix & flush the cooling system prior to reinstating?
Also due a timing belt change, not been done from new. Get that done same time?

I'm a bit confused by all the internet chat about the silica bag bursting & clogging up matrix, but on many occasions the matrix seems to be clogged even though the silica bag is in tact. So is it just too much concentration of silica dissolving into the coolant that is the issue? Then clogging the matrix. Or is it sand in the system.

This training vid suggests the silica sachet is a failsafe against folk just topping up with water rather than with proper coolant (towards end of video).
Audi Engine1.6 / 2.0 TDI EU5 Service Training Information - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wauedXMKbc)

[Crasher]

I love the CUNA engine, change one letter to know how I really feel! The Silica bag is part of the problem in that it losses its effectiveness in boosting the silicate of the coolant which falls out of suspension and blocks the matrix, the bag does not split, internet myth. We reverse blast the system clean with the pressure was and then blow the water out with compressed air, then change the matix and refill with G12Evo; we use G12Evo concentrate and mix is 40/60 with distilled water, NOT tap water. The CUNA is evil for air locks, we use a vacuum filling bleed system and run the engine with the ODIS bleed procedure which is not on VCDS although there is a half hearted version where you can run the electric pumps individually but the ODIS procedure runs them together, revs the engine up and down and open the water pump delivery ring and with the vacuum bleeder on but it still sometimes takes two goes.

[futtret]

I love the CUNA engine, change one letter to know how I really feel! The Silica bag is part of the problem in that it losses its effectiveness in boosting the silicate of the coolant which falls out of suspension and blocks the matrix, the bag does not split, internet myth. We reverse blast the system clean with the pressure was and then blow the water out with compressed air, then change the matix and refill with G12Evo; we use G12Evo concentrate and mix is 40/60 with distilled water, NOT tap water. The CUNA is evil for air locks, we use a vacuum filling bleed system and run the engine with the ODIS bleed procedure which is not on VCDS although there is a half hearted version where you can run the electric pumps individually but the ODIS procedure runs them together, revs the engine up and down and open the water pump delivery ring and with the vacuum bleeder on but it still sometimes takes two goes.
Thanks for the info.
Do you usually replace the matrix with the same model (Valeo) or do you fit an improved version?
Presumably using the G12Evo coolant kind of removes the source problem being the crappy G13 coolant?

[futtret]

added a couple more queries:

Thanks for the info.
Do you usually replace the matrix with the same model (Valeo) or do you fit an improved version?
Presumably using the G12Evo coolant kind of removes the source problem being the crappy G13 coolant?
Upthread you mentioned 'not a dash out job' to replace the matrix....but am I right in saying the whole centre console + glovebox needs to be removed (there is a vid on you tube showing this...).
How many hours is fair to replace the matrix?

Regarding timing belt & water pump; would you recommend genuine VAG parts or Gates kit?
Not a scrimper, just like value for money...
Would you keep this car or time to get rid.....2015 A3 8V CUNA, 43000 miles

[Crasher]

There are two systems fitted, Valeo or Denso and we fit the relevant aftermarket units from Nissens which seem to be good value. Cam belts and water pumps we only fit genuine for the, in theory, 2 year warranty. So far so good with G12Evo. Yes the matrix is accessed under the dash, fiddly back aching job but at least not dash out.

[futtret]

So that's the heating matrix replaced, the timing belt & water pump, and G12 Evo coolant used. Oh and some other exhaust system sensor 2 or something, because seemingly there was another fault code on the diagnostics (even though the sensor on cylinder 3 glow plug was replaced a few weeks back).

Collected car, Engine Management System dash light (coily symbol) came on. Sigh. Went out in it later on, no EMS warning light, but when switched off the ignition gushing water sound coming from being the dash. The gushing water seems to occur when I switch the ignition on and off, ie without starting the engine. Noticed that coolant level was down at minimum level.

Air lock in new coolant?
Noticed Crasher warned of this upthread.
Would that be enough to bring the EMS dash light on?

How to rectify?

[futtret]

so, still got glow plug & engine management lights on.

A3 8V 2.0 tdi, CUNA engine, 2015.

Last fault code was P054500 (edited from P154500) so exhaust gas temperature sensor bank 1 was replaced.
But it's still giving the same fault code.

It's not in, and very seldom goes into limp mode.

After a cold start, the car has been doing hiccups (misfiring??) for about a year now, they disappear fairly quickly when warmed up, but I've seen it happen at 80mph going up a hill on motorway in 6th gear, 15 mins after cold start.
I think those misfires are a tad worse no.

Fuel injection or fuel filter fault, or DPF, or catalytic converter damage?

The DPF fault light has never been on in 8 yrs, only the glow plug + EML lights.

On top of that I'm, getting a solid beep tone when put it into reverse, normal beep resumes thereafter - problem with ECU or reverse sensor?

And when I take key out of ignition, can hear engine water flowing noise, since coolant was replaced - air lock?

[Crasher]

What was the part number of the sensor you replaced and was it the one under the turbo into the exhaust manifold? What is the VIN?

[futtret]

VIN is WAUZZZ8V7FA152200

The (reputable) garage replaced the sensor part so I'm none the wiser on part number used.
Should I seek that info?
Are you thinking perhaps they've replaced the incorrect sensor?
Or they've replaced the correct sensor with incorrect part number perhaps?

FWIW he said it was a ball-ache to remove, took 3hrs he said, charged me 1hr as goodwill

[Crasher]

I just thought I would double check the fault code, what are you using?

17953 (P1545) - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
From memory, this is a petrol engine only fault code.

[futtret]

Crap, my bad, the code is P054500
(was away from home and trying to memorise the numbers), will edit my previous post

[Crasher]

001349 (P0545) - B1 S1: Sensor 1 for Exhaust Temp Bank 1 (G235) Short to Ground

This is part number 04L 906 088 HT and has a black plug, you need to find out the make and part number of what was fitted and if it was the evil to get at one tucked away before and under the turbo in the manifold collector.

https://web.tecalliance.net/tecdocsw/en/parts/30/0%2520986%2520259%2520020/detail?query=04L%20906%20088%20HT&numberType=1&oe=04L%20906%20088%20HT&groups=3938#@brc/search:Search%2520by%2520any%2520number%252004L%25 20906%2520088%2520HT;query:04L%2520906%2520088%252 0HT;groups:3938/detail:0%2520986%2520259%2520020;brandId:30;articl eNo:0%252520986%252520259%252520020;query:04L%2520 906%2520088%2520HT;numberType:1;oe:04L%2520906%252 0088%2520HT;groups:3938

https://digital-assets.tecalliance.services/images/3200/433774f9b6a67731d8c10b13ec236c9376beb96f.jpg?ver=3 .89.0.8405a6689b

[mickeybo]

Eng code is missing can you post up

[futtret]

CUNA, cheers

[futtret]

the evil to get at one tucked away before and under the turbo in the manifold collector. I presume it is actually the evil one that needs to be replaced?
I can see from other threads, various folks seem to get the location of this sensor mixed up, so thanks for the comment.

it is back in the garage now, I have passed on your advice about making sure it's the correct part number and correct location. It was a genuine audi part that was fitted, he didn't have the part number to hand, I shall report back later.

[futtret]

one thing i'm a bit confused by here....
how come, when the sensor was changed, and garage test drove it, left it overnight & test drove it again, why did the faults:
(a) clear at all, and
(b) not re-appear before I was driving it to 3 miles up the road....

Is this a software problem, how common is it to need a software update?

[Crasher]

It happens, there is no logical explanation.

[futtret]

001349 (P0545) - B1 S1: Sensor 1 for Exhaust Temp Bank 1 (G235) Short to Ground

This is part number 04L 906 088 HT and has a black plug, you need to find out the make and part number of what was fitted and if it was the evil to get at one tucked away before and under the turbo in the manifold collector.

https://web.tecalliance.net/tecdocsw/en/parts/30/0%2520986%2520259%2520020/detail?query=04L%20906%20088%20HT&numberType=1&oe=04L%20906%20088%20HT&groups=3938#@brc/search:Search%2520by%2520any%2520number%252004L%25 20906%2520088%2520HT;query:04L%2520906%2520088%252 0HT;groups:3938/detail:0%2520986%2520259%2520020;brandId:30;articl eNo:0%252520986%252520259%252520020;query:04L%2520 906%2520088%2520HT;numberType:1;oe:04L%2520906%252 0088%2520HT;groups:3938

https://digital-assets.tecalliance.services/images/3200/433774f9b6a67731d8c10b13ec236c9376beb96f.jpg?ver=3 .89.0.8405a6689b

Crasher - can confirm that your part no. matches the one stated on my invoice and he also showed me it on his computer screen. It was supplied by Audi themselves as he only uses genuine parts. It was the evil one to get at that they replaced.

Garage has fessed up that they can't do anything to resolve the ongoing fault code and suggest I look for auto electrician to test wiring. What would you suggest as next course of action?

[futtret]

Crasher - can confirm that your part no. matches the one stated on my invoice and he also showed me it on his computer screen. It was supplied by Audi themselves as he only uses genuine parts. It was the evil one to get at that they replaced.

Garage has fessed up that they can't do anything to resolve the ongoing fault code and suggest I look for auto electrician to test wiring. What would you suggest as next course of action?

Problems solved by disconnecting the existing wire (which is wrapped up within other wires) between the ECU and the sensor and running a new wire alongside.