Sticky clutch pedal a3 2011

[Disco_jo]

Hello all,


I'm back again, you fix 1 thing, other things pop up....

So yesterday evening I took my car out (2011 Audi a3 sportback 2.0tdi 16V 140CR (CFFB) 6 speed manual) Started going through the gears and felt the clutch pedal was bizarre, lower than usual, about halfway.

So I stuck my toes under and lifted it a bit and it poped back into place. Didnt happen again yesterday, nor the 15 odd miles I have done today. I have seen on the forum/forums that I should bleed the system, if its not that, could be the slave/master cylinder, worst case senario the DMF. My questions are the following:

-Does anybody know of common clutch problems on my model?
-Im guessing I would have to bleed all of the brakes/flush the whole system as the brakes run off the same fluid?
-Any tips on flushing the clutch? I should be ok with the brakes.
-Do I need to drop the gearbox to change the slave cylinder on my model *fingers crossed*

Thank you for taking the time to read, looking forward to your feedback.

EDIT: Looking through the receipts, Brakes and clutch were flushed august last year (15k miles ago) at an audi dealer

[Disco_jo]

36897A pic of my slave cylinder, looks external to me *hopes up*

[Crasher]

No the CFFB slave is concentric inside the bell housing and was revised on cars built after 30-05-2011 and again on 01-07-2016 to part number 0A5 141 671 S.

[Disco_jo]

Thank you for your reply.

Not so good news then. Mine is from 14/09/2011. Do you think that it is likely that is the problem? Or more chance to be something else? Could I keep driving as it hasn't happened since or should I really start looking into it?


EDIT: Looking at that part number on the store, it says for CFFB car UP TO 05/2011, yet mine is newer, would it really be that?

[Crasher]

Private Message me your VIN.

[Disco_jo]

Sure thing, I think i got the pm through

[Crasher]

It was built 01.09.2011 It is a 2012 model. The current genuine number is 0A5 141 671 S and makes it a Sachs 3182 600 241 or LUK 510 0176 10.

[Disco_jo]

Thank you for taking the time to look into that. Your best guess, do you think that could be the problem? Or more likely to be something else?

[Disco_jo]

Also alot of people talk about a receiver/sender ? im guessing that is the master cylinder behind the pedal and the pic I sent earlier on this post? Could that be the problem?

[Crasher]

It is normally the slave cylinder.

[Roverfan]

Is the master cylinder dry on the outside? They can develop cracks. Get your hand to it and check for oil. I replaced one a few weeks ago on my 12 golf

[Disco_jo]

Thank you very much for your feedback guys, the master cylinder is dry as a bone and havent lost any liquid at all

[Disco_jo]

Hi guys,

Bad news, clutch is playing up again... Pedal sticking half way when the car has been sitting for a bit, works of once pumped a few times, feels completly soft pressing it the first half and the biting point is pretty low before pumping.

I wouldnt say it is hard to get it into reverse, but it is definatly not as smoothas before


Does this confirm the slave cylinder?

[Crasher]

Classic concentric realise bearing failure.

[Disco_jo]

Thank you for the reply, Im asking alot here but would you by any chance be able to give me the reference number on the sachs full clutch kit using the VIN I pm'd you the other day? Or would you need more info?

Edit: Also with the VIN would you be able to find out which gearbox code I have? As I have come across a few workshop manuals for the gearbox (O2Q,OAJ,etc...)

[Crasher]

Vehicle Identification No.
WAUZZZ8P9CA******


Model
audi a3 sportback
2,0 tdi
A3


Date of production
01.09.2011


Model year
2012


Sales type
8PABRC


Engine Code
CFFB


Transmission Code
NFU



The NFU is a type 02Q. Sachs only seem to offer the odd Xtend self adjusting kit for that, you would have to go LUK for conventional and they do offer a four piece kit, the 600 0299 00


https://digital-assets.tecalliance.services/images/800/f45e78d4dc0888b6183daddf2f0ae25fbd53985b.jpg

[Disco_jo]

You sir are a star, you are so helpfull. I am so thankfull for all the advice and help you have given. You think I can drive as is for the moment until I can get round to it in a week or so? Or better not? I shall report back when everything is back in place and another problem comes out of the blue haha

[Crasher]

You are unlikely to do any damage but could end up stuck somewhere.

[Disco_jo]

That doesnt sound very fun, i'll try and figure something out and store the car for now

[Disco_jo]

Hi guys ! Im back again ! You were right Crasher, slave is buggered, the rest looks alright to be honest, but as I have the box out im going to pick up a kit. Looking at the kit you linked me it doesnt say for a CFFB engine, nor do any of the oem numbers match up. Is that normal ? You think its deffo for my car? Thanks in advance

[Disco_jo]

369223692336921

[Disco_jo]

Here are the present numbers :

flywheel: ZSB 03L 105 266 BQ
clutch disc: LUK hulu4 022 141 031 S
pressure plate: 03L 141 025 T

[Crasher]

A bit complex to do on my iPad, at work I would be using two PC’s to cross check all the numbers. According to Tec Doc that should be the correct LUK kit for your car. To have a mixture of Sachs and LUK from the factory is nothing unusual, som part numbers are interchangeable and others aren’t... a complex subject so go with whichever Sachs or LUK kit your suppler says as it is their job to get it right although against REG number or even VIN look up, none genuine parts suppliers do make a LOT of time costly mistakes (Using so called K type numbers) so when I order something I decide what comes in as I make less mistakes than they do by putting the applications through ETKA FI Suggestion and then finding the aftermarket manufacturers cross reference number using Tec Doc, this way I keep **** up’s to a minimum.

[Disco_jo]

Hi there, I think I will go with the one you sent and cross fingers, when I put the numbers from the parts that came off, No parts come up with those numbers. So fingers crossed, and would you mind confirming that (G 052 171) is the gearbox oil spec I need please?

EDIT : I can find a kit with the same Flywheel number, but none of the other part numbers match up with the other parts I have, or other kits, driving me nuts. I don't know how you do it mate and at the same time be patient and take the time to explain to people like me ;). Worst case sénario it will get sent back.

[Crasher]

In my life of being an independent VAG specialist garage, parts supply is THE most irritating, stressful and frustrating part of my job. I have ALL the tools (official and not so) to find out what how and where so I can give a supplier their own part number and still they **** it up a good 20% of the time. I must say that Euro Car Parts seem to have improved markedly in the last few months... possibly being less busy has allowed them more time to take care. One point that can shock you is how slow parts supply inside the UK can be. A number of times I have ordered odd ball things from the USA at the same time as a normal part from the UK, both for the same car, and the part from the USA arrives first.

[Disco_jo]

In France the shipping takes a while too, most of the time 1 - 2 weeks. From all the car parts I have ordered (touch wood) I have only received 1 wrong part. Hopefully it will stay that way. The clutch kit and oil is on its way. I will keep this post updated when all back together and hopefully driving.

Thank you again for all the time you have spent helping me out. I really appreciate it.

[Disco_jo]

And Im back ! Shipping took a while, had to run around a bit but finally got the parts last night, fitted everthing this afternoon. Only hiccup was the gear selection was funky, so had to put the lever in home position etc. Once again Crasher you were spot on on the parts, I can't thank you enough for all your help. Car drives like a dream, clutch and gears are better than before !

Thank you again, and have a good weekend all. Jo

[Clutch]

So, it appears that I have pretty much the exact same symptoms as thread starter, with what I believe is the same vehicle.

Clutch has in general been very soft. Problems started with clutch dropping lower to the point where it even got stuck at the floor. Problem is especially bad once the car has warmed up.

Have tried bleeding, both by pushing oil through slave cylinder and by applying 2 bars of pressure at reservoir (bleeding at slave valve).
Have tried "bleeding" clutch release bearing/slave cylinder by inserting small tube VWVortex.com - How to bleed your 02M clutch slave cylinder, the effective way. (https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4376420)

Nothing seems to have improved the situation. Upon checking with workshop, I was told it was likely the master cylinder and that it's a known point of failure on these vehicles (had recently fixed another one with similar problem). My master cylinder appears to be somewhat dry on the outside upon inspection (without complete disassembly).

Could it still be the master cylinder, or is it almost 100 % certain it's the slave cylinder / clutch release bearing?

Appreciate any input.

[Crasher]

What is your car?

[Clutch]

What is your car?
Audi A3 2012, CFFB engine 140 hp 2.0 TDI, 6-speed transmission so it has the clutch release bearing inside gear box.

[Crasher]

I have just converted my car to that system from the external type so I made sure I fitted the latest revised LUK unit as they do have a reputation for failure.