BiTdi Electronic Turbo Actuator?

[M3 Compact]

2012 3.0 BiTdi 129K miles.

Glow plug light started flashing today and the car went into limp mode..

VCDS scan revealed various faluts relating to actuator/solenoid/short to power, but after clearing the codes a couple of times, these are consistent...




Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Control Module Part Number: 4G0 907 589 A HW: 4G0 907 589
Component and/or Version: 3.0BTD EDC17 H21 0004
Software Coding: 122A4012057601020800
Work Shop Code: WSC 02391 785 00200
ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM30BTD0114G0907589A 001005 (AU57)
ROD: EV_ECM30BTD0114G0907589A.rod
VCID: 326CC18A65B421D12F-8066
3 Faults Found:

5319 - Control Circuit for Controller for Turbocharger 1 (J724)
P3348 00 [036] - Electrical Malfunction
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 208979 km
Date: 2020.01.24
Time: 17:51:59

Engine speed: 1556.50 /min
Normed load value: 73.3 %
Vehicle speed: 10 km/h
Coolant temperature: 45 °C
Intake air temperature: 14 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.200 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Accelerator pedal travel: 24.08 %
Charge Pressure Actuator: activation: 96.20 %
Charge Pressure Actuator: acknowledgment: 55.70 %
Turbocharger boost control: offset closed: 0.00 %
Turbocharger boost control: offset open: 0.00 %
High press turbocharger actuator: actual uncond volt value: 2648.8 mV

9126 - Actuator Module for Turbocharger 1
P00AF 00 [032] - Stuck
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 208979 km
Date: 2020.01.24
Time: 17:14:59

Engine speed: 809.00 /min
Normed load value: 20.8 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 53 °C
Intake air temperature: 29 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 14.480 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Accelerator pedal travel: 0.00 %
Charge Pressure Actuator: activation: 5.00 %
Charge Pressure Actuator: acknowledgment: 100.63 %
Turbocharger boost control: offset closed: 0.00 %
Turbocharger boost control: offset open: 0.00 %
High press turbocharger actuator: actual uncond volt value: 4281.4 mV

9127 - Actuator Module for Turbocharger 1
P00AF 00 [167] - Stuck
MIL ON - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 208980 km
Date: 2020.01.24
Time: 18:21:11

Engine speed: 0.00 /min
Normed load value: 0.0 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 60 °C
Intake air temperature: 12 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 11.760 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Accelerator pedal travel: 0.00 %
Charge Pressure Actuator: activation: 100.00 %
Charge Pressure Actuator: acknowledgment: -4.82 %
Turbocharger boost control: offset closed: 0.00 %
Turbocharger boost control: offset open: 0.00 %
High press turbocharger actuator: actual uncond volt value: 254.0 mV




Google indicates the possibility of a failed Hella electronic actuator?

TIA.

[dean warren]

- Stuck
MIL ON - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
.

I had this one last year, audi wanted to replace the biturbo unit at 5k, tps said there is a repair kit @£380 which I believe was the actuator, unfortunately was on back order and took 5 weeks to arrive, was fitted under warranty and car has been fine since.


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[M3 Compact]

Thanks Dean.

Quick Google suggests that replacement actuators may be available, subject to correctly identifying exactly which one I might require.

Few checks with VCDS this morning.


When I ran the output test for 'Exhaust Turbocharger 1' nothing visible happened and I'm assuming that this actuator should have cycled its lever?....


https://i.postimg.cc/Gpkk44HR/2020-01-25-10-18-25.jpg






When I ran the output test for 'Wastegate Bypass Regulator Valve', it cycled the vacuum controlled lever in this short video, but I'm not sure how to check whether the range of travel is sufficient?....



https://youtu.be/IIWMsaLvZ9k



EML is now illuminated, as well as the flashing glow plug light.

[M3 Compact]

I forgot to add:

There is also some 'noise' as the engine slows down on the overrun when revved at standstill; it sounds like it's releasing air/boost and it's coming from under the air filter/intake area.
I heard the noise before I plugged the VCDS in and I assumed that the problem was just a leaking boost hose.

[M3 Compact]

Left it to reset properly today, cleared the fault codes with VCDS and started it up 'gently' =
No dash light warnings and the 'expelling air sounds' weren't evident while the engine felt normal.:approve:

But as soon as it tried/needed to boost at all (up my steep drive), the glow plug light started flashing again and the overrun noises returned.

Spent some time today with Google...

I'm a reasonably competent 'mechanic' with my motorsport toys and I'm reasonably competent with VCDS as a fault finding/preference enabling tool....

I've no previous experience whatsoever with TDIs tho.:dunno::dunno::dunno:

Should my No1 turbocharger's electronic actuator controller move at all during a VCDS 'output test'?
Should it be easy(ish) to move manually with the ignition off?
Was the pneumatic wastegate controller's movement (in the video) sufficient?

If I buy a direct replacement electronic actuator, will it need to be 'paired' with the turbo?

If I buy a complete new replacement BiTdi unit, will it be plug and play?

If I buy a complete refurb replacement BiTdi unit, will it be plug and play?

TIA.:beerchug:

[dean warren]

I believe the actuator will have to be calibrated, a used bitdi unit I expected would go straight on, a refurbished turbo, i would think its pot luck. All depends if they have the equipment to calibrate the actuator.


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[M3 Compact]

Came across your post on Pistonheads Dean, how did yours turn out in the end (waited 5 weeks for repair kit)?
Was yours a Hella actuator?
From what I've read, the repair kit covers the mechanical aspects only and there are no visible signs of mechanical damage with mine.

We disconnected the arm on the actuator today and the arm moved very freely, indicating that the variable vanes aren't sticking, so my pal dived in and removed the electronic actuator, which is a Hella.
I've read that the Hella actuators don't need to be calibrated???

Google reports that the worm drive gears are prone to failing and I'd hoped that there would be some visible signs of failure, alas not......


https://i.postimg.cc/pd1MdRSP/2020-01-27-15-24-06.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/pTn4X88B/2020-01-27-15-24-15.jpg



https://i.postimg.cc/tJ3cFjBZ/2020-01-27-15-24-30.jpg







Not sure what to do next, so I've taken a punt on ordering a new Hella actuator and crossed my fingers.:Blush2:

[M3 Compact]

FIXED!:drive:

No £6K at the Audi dealer or DIY £3.5K+ for a new turbo unit.:scared:


£182 all-in, for an allegedly "100% new old stock actuator".


For reference:

The actuator that came off was visibly fine and it even wound itself back to its default/fail position after being manually forced to open.
There were no broken gears inside the actuator and the electric motor was working.
Presumably the actuator had developed an 'electronic' fault on its board.
The replacement Hella actuator was plug 'n' play (no calibration required) and the car drives perfectly again with no fault codes registering.






Should my No1 turbocharger's electronic actuator controller move at all during a VCDS 'output test'?



YES!.....



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZLbBlBg5Qc&feature=youtu.be




Should it be easy(ish) to move manually with the ignition off?


No.

My 'wastegate'/variable vane ring lever moved extremely freely without any resistance or dragging whatsoever when the actuator was disconnected; the actuators aren't meant to be moved manually.


Happy days.:approve:

[dean warren]

So you just fitted the part and no calibration required?


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[M3 Compact]

So you just fitted the part and no calibration required?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes Dean.

I researched it extensively on line and the reports stated that the Hella actuators don't need calibrating.

I was lucky and mine had a Hella, apparently there are 2 different types of actuator fitted to these cars and the non-Hella actuators allegedly need to be calibrated with the turbos removed. (No idea why.)

[hants diesels]

Hi, thanks for your listing as I seem to have the same issue, and has educated me. Just a couple of quick questions if possible.
1: How long did it take you to remove and was it straight forward.
2: I’ve looked everywhere but can only find the actuator at the main dealers or Tps but a lot more expensive. Can you say where you got yours.

[M3 Compact]

Hi, thanks for your listing as I seem to have the same issue, and has educated me. Just a couple of quick questions if possible.
1: How long did it take you to remove and was it straight forward.
2: I’ve looked everywhere but can only find the actuator at the main dealers or Tps but a lot more expensive. Can you say where you got yours.


Mine came from here....

Turbocharger Electronic Actuator G-098 Audi A6 A7 Q5 SQ5 3.0 TDI NEW Original | eBay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turbocharger-Electronic-Actuator-G-098-Audi-A6-A7-Q5-SQ5-3-0-TDI-NEW-Original/323977590151?hash=item4b6e91b587:g:Ob8AAOSwutpdyok 6)

Removal is a bit of a mission. Approx 2 hours.

My actuator had an electronic fault, apparently physical faults inside the actuator with the worm gear are more common.

How much is the actuator from the dealer?
I would happily have paid a bit extra for a guaranteed brand new one.

Good luck.

[hants diesels]

Yes took a while to remove, cut my hands up on exhaust heat shield and one of the bolts was two threads away from coming out but the oil feed pipe was in the way and didn’t have the right tools at home so another 30 extra mins later it’s out, again a hella unit same as yours but the worm gear looked ok. So yes ordered one from dealer outlet at £255+vat and due Wednesday, let’s hope it’s going to be ok

[M3 Compact]

Yes took a while to remove, cut my hands up on exhaust heat shield and one of the bolts was two threads away from coming out but the oil feed pipe was in the way and didn’t have the right tools at home so another 30 extra mins later it’s out, again a hella unit same as yours but the worm gear looked ok. So yes ordered one from dealer outlet at £255+vat and due Wednesday, let’s hope it’s going to be ok


I think the Hella aspect may be a red herring that I'd read about and repeated, due to some people's confusion.

Obviously the BiTdi has two separate turbos, the one on the top has a 'traditional' actuator and the lower one has the electronic actuator; I suspect that they all have the same Hella electronic actuator on the lower turbo and the info' regarding the two entirely different types of actuator has become misinterpreted somewhere along the line.

My guess is that it's only the upper turbo's traditional actuator that needs to be calibrated and that the electronic ones are all 'self-calibrating'.

Hope it works for you.
Mine ran perfectly from the word go and the light went out immediately.

Currently managing 3 weeks to the gallon too.:D

[M3 Compact]

Fixed?

[RanjT]

Hi thanks for your post, was very informative and has helped me diagnose my 2013 A6 C7 3.0 V6 BiTDI with the same actuator fault. Symptoms started off intermittent turbo lag or hesitation around 2300-3000rpm with no fault codes or warning lights, it would just hold back when giving it some beans. Driving yesterday a bit spirited, car goes into limp mode, coil light flashing, no engine management light. I've got Carista OBD2 dongle so cleared the code on route and it came straight back and it was in limp mode all the way home.

I hooked up VCDS and found engine fault code 9126 - Actuator Module for Turbocharger 1 P00AF00 - Stuck
I tried the output test and the actuator rod moved, but its movement was not smooth when moving, it jerked. With the engine off, when I put my finger on the actuator coupling and I can move it with next to no force. This Turbo Actuator is also referred to as a J724 module.


https://youtu.be/BY9MJIYiIOU


https://youtu.be/jK522xXjlhs

I was looking at getting a new J724 actuator after reading your post so I read the Audi workshop manual online for removal instructions to get an idea on what I need to remove (www.cardiagn.com (http://www.cardiagn.com)).

After reading workshop manual it says that the J724 module for the bitdi needs to be calibrated using a special tool VAS 6395/7 bracket and calibration handheld computer VAS 6395. Apparently you've got to fit the bracket and cycle the rod so it touches the bracket and record the voltage, cycle it off the bracket and record the voltage. Do this 3 times and then get a average voltage, add 0.020V - 0.030V to the calculated average and this is what you need to set the new J724 actuator unit to before you fully tighten it into position.

You can increase the voltage by moving the unit up in the retainer (not fully tightened when setting/calibrating), or decrease it by moving down, but the voltage of the new unit when cycled with VAS6395 must not differ from the average value for the old actuator unit by more than +/- 0.020V otherwise can lead to problems with noise and/or driveability.

I'm bit confused because you have said your car is fixed and driving perfect and you didn't need to set (calibrate) it?

Did you get lucky with refitting the unit in the right location?

[M3 Compact]

That's great info' RanjT.

You've obviously uncovered more info' than I managed to.
Once mine was fitted and running properly, I just accepted that it was fixed.

Yours looks more like physically damaged gears; my gears were fine and it was an electrical fault on the unit's board.




I was looking at getting a new J724 actuator after reading your post so I read the Audi workshop manual online for removal instructions to get an idea on what I need to remove (www.cardiagn.com (http://www.cardiagn.com/)).

After reading workshop manual it says that the J724 module for the bitdi needs to be calibrated using a special tool VAS 6395/7 bracket and calibration handheld computer VAS 6395. Apparently you've got to fit the bracket and cycle the rod so it touches the bracket and record the voltage, cycle it off the bracket and record the voltage. Do this 3 times and then get a average voltage, add 0.020V - 0.030V to the calculated average and this is what you need to set the new J724 actuator unit to before you fully tighten it into position.

You can increase the voltage by moving the unit up in the retainer (not fully tightened when setting/calibrating), or decrease it by moving down, but the voltage of the new unit when cycled with VAS6395 must not differ from the average value for the old actuator unit by more than +/- 0.020V otherwise can lead to problems with noise and/or driveability.

I'm bit confused because you have said your car is fixed and driving perfect and you didn't need to set (calibrate) it?

Did you get lucky with refitting the unit in the right location?


I must have just dropped lucky (enough) with the positioning, as the car is running perfectly and returning the same MPG on my regular journeys.
I'd still be interested in calibrating it properly tho, how are you planning to get yours calibrated?

[RanjT]

Hi m3compact, glad to hear yours is still running well. Either you got lucky or the manual is wrong.

I removed the coupling and cycled the actuator with VCDS this afternoon and there is definitely
Physical damage inside. It stopped moving after trying to move, i’ll upload the video to youtube later.

I took out one of the 3 actuator mounting bolts and the hole does not look elongated on the retainer, so bit confused by the workshop manual because that suggests you have to move the unit up or down to change the voltage reading and get it within 0.020v of the old unit.

Ive built everything back up and have started to call around Audi indi’s to find who has the tool with no luck so far.

I suspect most garages just replace the entire turbo, so thinking about it, i might be better to try a turbo rebuild specialist as they would have the tools to test and rebuild these.

Im thinking about taking a chance and changing it myself OR taking it down to a indi or turbo specialist for them to change. Which route i take depends on if i can find an indi with the special tools.

If no one has the special tool (£800) im thinking of marking the bolt positions on the retainer plate and then using vcds to record the voltage of the original unit in upper/middle and lower position and then i have something to compare to when i install the new unit.

Because you’ve removed and exchanged yours, i don’t know if its possible you can set yours now following the manual procedure as you’ve got nothing to compare the new actuator voltage values too.

I imagine if driveability and noise is not affected then yours is ok, as these are the symptoms to not being set correctly.



That's great info' RanjT.

You've obviously uncovered more info' than I managed to.
Once mine was fitted and running properly, I just accepted that it was fixed.

Yours looks more like physically damaged gears; my gears were fine and it was an electrical fault on the unit's board.




I must have just dropped lucky (enough) with the positioning, as the car is running perfectly and returning the same MPG on my regular journeys.
I'd still be interested in calibrating it properly tho, how are you planning to get yours calibrated?

[RanjT]

Update: I took one of the actuator mounting screws out and the holes were round not slotted.

I removed the one and will be replacing with a new unit. i’m not anticipating having to do any setting of voltage on the new one.

I opened up my old actuator and the worm gear and teeth on the 1/4 moon cog have worn which is the reason for the jerky motion when activating it using VCDS.


Hi m3compact, glad to hear yours is still running well. Either you got lucky or the manual is wrong.

I removed the coupling and cycled the actuator with VCDS this afternoon and there is definitely
Physical damage inside. It stopped moving after trying to move, i’ll upload the video to youtube later.

I took out one of the 3 actuator mounting bolts and the hole does not look elongated on the retainer, so bit confused by the workshop manual because that suggests you have to move the unit up or down to change the voltage reading and get it within 0.020v of the old unit.

Ive built everything back up and have started to call around Audi indi’s to find who has the tool with no luck so far.

I suspect most garages just replace the entire turbo, so thinking about it, i might be better to try a turbo rebuild specialist as they would have the tools to test and rebuild these.

Im thinking about taking a chance and changing it myself OR taking it down to a indi or turbo specialist for them to change. Which route i take depends on if i can find an indi with the special tools.

If no one has the special tool (£800) im thinking of marking the bolt positions on the retainer plate and then using vcds to record the voltage of the original unit in upper/middle and lower position and then i have something to compare to when i install the new unit.

Because you’ve removed and exchanged yours, i don’t know if its possible you can set yours now following the manual procedure as you’ve got nothing to compare the new actuator voltage values too.

I imagine if driveability and noise is not affected then yours is ok, as these are the symptoms to not being set correctly.

[M3 Compact]

Good luck RanjT.

Hope it works as well as mine did; I wasn’t there when it was started for the first time, but the glow plug light went out if its own accord and it drove perfectly from the get go.

My only regret is that I didn’t ask the main dealer about a replacement, as I’m suspicious that mine was just a cleaned up used one.

[RanjT]

Update car fixed!!!

Part arrived in the post today. I brought a replacement actuator from the same Seller on ebay (nerings) as M3 Compact

My actuator had G-83 Printed on the casting, G-098 superseeds it, there are plenty of these bring sold on the net.

Fitted the actuator exactly as i removed it, still noticed no adjustment in the bolt holes as the workshops manual suggests. I didnt use any special tools. Hardest part of the rebuild was getting the bulkhead heatshield back on, otherwise straight forward remove and replace. I cleared fault codes using vcds and cycled the actuator Before i started the car, just to check that the actuator was moving freely and smoothly. There was not jerking motion in the full travel. Filled up with some V power diesel and gave it a good run.

Drives perfect, power delivery is much smoother . I’ve not had my car long and it feels more powerful than before, especially around the middle of the rev range.

Next steps as a precautionary I’m going to use some turbo cleaner, just to make sure those turbo vanes are clean. During my research on the net I read that actuator failure could also be attributed to sticking vanes due to build up on carbon on short journeys. I don’t do big miles and with Covid restrictions in place havent really been going anywhere far.

Thanks once again to everyone on this thread for helping me fix my problem, hopefully my post will help someone else too.

[M3 Compact]

Nice one Ranj.
Great additional info too. :cool:

Hope this thread helps others in the future, because my A6 is still running like a Swiss watch.:approve:

Still burning Boxsters off, returning 40+ MPG on motorways and towing my 2 tonne car trailer effortlessly when req'd too.

[dfox75615]

Mine came from here....

Turbocharger Electronic Actuator G-098 Audi A6 A7 Q5 SQ5 3.0 TDI NEW Original | eBay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turbocharger-Electronic-Actuator-G-098-Audi-A6-A7-Q5-SQ5-3-0-TDI-NEW-Original/323977590151?hash=item4b6e91b587:g:Ob8AAOSwutpdyok 6)

Removal is a bit of a mission. Approx 2 hours.

My actuator had an electronic fault, apparently physical faults inside the actuator with the worm gear are more common.

How much is the actuator from the dealer?
I would happily have paid a bit extra for a guaranteed brand new one.

Good luck.

just out of curiosity did the g number on the side of the unit the same as the one that was on ur own

[dfox75615]

Update car fixed!!!

Part arrived in the post today. I brought a replacement actuator from the same Seller on ebay (nerings) as M3 Compact

My actuator had G-83 Printed on the casting, G-098 superseeds it, there are plenty of these bring sold on the net.

Fitted the actuator exactly as i removed it, still noticed no adjustment in the bolt holes as the workshops manual suggests. I didnt use any special tools. Hardest part of the rebuild was getting the bulkhead heatshield back on, otherwise straight forward remove and replace. I cleared fault codes using vcds and cycled the actuator Before i started the car, just to check that the actuator was moving freely and smoothly. There was not jerking motion in the full travel. Filled up with some V power diesel and gave it a good run.

Drives perfect, power delivery is much smoother . I’ve not had my car long and it feels more powerful than before, especially around the middle of the rev range.

Next steps as a precautionary I’m going to use some turbo cleaner, just to make sure those turbo vanes are clean. During my research on the net I read that actuator failure could also be attributed to sticking vanes due to build up on carbon on short journeys. I don’t do big miles and with Covid restrictions in place havent really been going anywhere far.

Thanks once again to everyone on this thread for helping me fix my problem, hopefully my post will help someone else too.

Do you have any advice im about to buy one for my car and replace it

ie how to get it off the easyest way and when u said the bulkhead heatsheld does that have to come off

[RanjT]

just out of curiosity did the g number on the side of the unit the same as the one that was on ur own

Yes you have to match the G number on the side of the unit. I think the diff G numbers relate to no of teeth on the worm gear or half moon cog

[RanjT]

You can buy from TPS for around £252 plus vat or source a recon unit from ebay. Wouldnt consider 2nd hand as the internals are prone to wearing away.

Easiest way to get it off is follow the workshop manual for removal of the scuttle panel, bulkhead divider plate between engine and where wiper motor is.

Once thats removed its 3 bolts to remove the actuator and the circlip on the vanes rod. Remove the electrical plug and replacement is the opposite of removal.

You have to remove the bulkhead divider and heatshield to get the unit out and get the harness connector off, this is minimum u must remove to get the unit out.

[klisenko]

2012 3.0 BiTdi 129K miles.

Glow plug light started flashing today and the car went into limp mode..

VCDS scan revealed various faluts relating to actuator/solenoid/short to power, but after clearing the codes a couple of times, these are consistent...




Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Control Module Part Number: 4G0 907 589 A HW: 4G0 907 589
Component and/or Version: 3.0BTD EDC17 H21 0004
Software Coding: 122A4012057601020800
Work Shop Code: WSC 02391 785 00200
ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM30BTD0114G0907589A 001005 (AU57)
ROD: EV_ECM30BTD0114G0907589A.rod
VCID: 326CC18A65B421D12F-8066
3 Faults Found:

5319 - Control Circuit for Controller for Turbocharger 1 (J724)
P3348 00 [036] - Electrical Malfunction
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 208979 km
Date: 2020.01.24
Time: 17:51:59

Engine speed: 1556.50 /min
Normed load value: 73.3 %
Vehicle speed: 10 km/h
Coolant temperature: 45 °C
Intake air temperature: 14 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.200 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Accelerator pedal travel: 24.08 %
Charge Pressure Actuator: activation: 96.20 %
Charge Pressure Actuator: acknowledgment: 55.70 %
Turbocharger boost control: offset closed: 0.00 %
Turbocharger boost control: offset open: 0.00 %
High press turbocharger actuator: actual uncond volt value: 2648.8 mV

9126 - Actuator Module for Turbocharger 1
P00AF 00 [032] - Stuck
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 208979 km
Date: 2020.01.24
Time: 17:14:59

Engine speed: 809.00 /min
Normed load value: 20.8 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 53 °C
Intake air temperature: 29 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 14.480 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Accelerator pedal travel: 0.00 %
Charge Pressure Actuator: activation: 5.00 %
Charge Pressure Actuator: acknowledgment: 100.63 %
Turbocharger boost control: offset closed: 0.00 %
Turbocharger boost control: offset open: 0.00 %
High press turbocharger actuator: actual uncond volt value: 4281.4 mV

9127 - Actuator Module for Turbocharger 1
P00AF 00 [167] - Stuck
MIL ON - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 208980 km
Date: 2020.01.24
Time: 18:21:11

Engine speed: 0.00 /min
Normed load value: 0.0 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 60 °C
Intake air temperature: 12 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 11.760 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Accelerator pedal travel: 0.00 %
Charge Pressure Actuator: activation: 100.00 %
Charge Pressure Actuator: acknowledgment: -4.82 %
Turbocharger boost control: offset closed: 0.00 %
Turbocharger boost control: offset open: 0.00 %
High press turbocharger actuator: actual uncond volt value: 254.0 mV




Google indicates the possibility of a failed Hella electronic actuator?

TIA.If you change actuator need calibration

Sent from my SM-J415F using Tapatalk

[Nico05]

Hi to all, yesterday I experienced the same problem on my A7 bitdi 2014 208000km , glow plug lights and car in limb mode. Because I was on business trip I discovered that you need to turn engine off then ON put car in manual shift on right and drive car above 2900 rpm, then you can drive car as fast you want. Your car will go in safe mode only in city...
Hope that this will help someone, it did to me 👍

[barond]

Hello,


I had same problem, one week ago I change my actuator G-83 to new one G098. Car ride right without any issue.
After one week I discovered this, when I ride with light foot on pedal, if I have around 1000-1500rpm with really soft acceleration car pull at or falter. if I accelerate more, then car works without any issue, fast and good.


Do you have some idea what can do this? it looks like missing fuel, or pressure in turbo?

Thank you.

[Nico05]

Hello,


I had same problem, one week ago I change my actuator G-83 to new one G098. Car ride right without any issue.
After one week I discovered this, when I ride with light foot on pedal, if I have around 1000-1500rpm with really soft acceleration car pull at or falter. if I accelerate more, then car works without any issue, fast and good.


Do you have some idea what can do this? it looks like missing fuel, or pressure in turbo?

Thank you.

The same problem is in my car, the car between this rpm-s is reacting very slow, my car was 15 days at mechanic and they try to position the new Actuator but didn't help, they turn off EGR but this didn't help.
Now we will try to install original actuator from working vehicle and then we will see if situation will become better.
My opinion is that substitute actuator can't be like original, it's to slow or/and can't be adjusted correctly to Audi software.

If this fix problem then I will buy new original bi-turbo for my car.

Regards!

[barond]

Hi,

So you mean new actuator G098 is not same or right for our car? or have to be adjust - remove Turbo and adjust actuator with turbo? Please give me information when you will find something.

Thank you.

[Nico05]

Hi,

So you mean new actuator G098 is not same or right for our car? or have to be adjust - remove Turbo and adjust actuator with turbo? Please give me information when you will find something.

Thank you.

Today we ordered new original actuator and we will install it, then I can give you feedback what is car behavior 👍

[barond]

Ok, thank you. I am also provided my original actuator to servis for repairing and then i want replace back original one. I think new one without right setup (G98) not work right for my car where was G83

[Leo31]

I have the same error turbochsrger actuator 1 stock, I ordered a new original from Germany, 400 € now wait to receive it to see how it is, do I have to calibrate it to be ok or is it plug & play?

[Nico05]

I have the same error turbochsrger actuator 1 stock, I ordered a new original from Germany, 400 € now wait to receive it to see how it is, do I have to calibrate it to be ok or is it plug & play?

As far I know, you need to calibration of actuator.

[Nico05]

Ok, thank you. I am also provided my original actuator to servis for repairing and then i want replace back original one. I think new one without right setup (G98) not work right for my car where was G83

Now they replace the G98 actuator and car behavior is completely different, now it's how should be 👍.
Funny thing after I drive aprox 1500km car went to safe mode again, 2 injectors burned up!!! The mechanic replaced 3 injectors and back flow pipes from injectors and after 100km again 1 injector burned and after that they replaced rest 3 injectors!?!?.
Don't know if mechanic made some mistakes during programming but it's little bit odd that injectors burned exactly in the same time like actuator...

Now I have felling that consumption droped for 0,5 l/100km.

[barond]

Ok, and what was your original actuator 83 or 98?
I replaced old 83 to whole new 98 without any setup - it work better but not work properrly. I sent my original 83 for repairing (mechanical parts) now instaled back to the car - it is much better but still not perfect.


I asked some mechanich for help, so we will remove both turbos and adjust actuator with turbos out of car.


Did you some calibration or just change actuator? Did you calibrate actuator with turbos?


Thank you for information.

[dean warren]

Now they replace the G98 actuator and car behavior is completely different, now it's how should be [emoji106].
Funny thing after I drive aprox 1500km car went to safe mode again, 2 injectors burned up!!! The mechanic replaced 3 injectors and back flow pipes from injectors and after 100km again 1 injector burned and after that they replaced rest 3 injectors!?!?.
Don't know if mechanic made some mistakes during programming but it's little bit odd that injectors burned exactly in the same time like actuator...

Now I have felling that consumption droped for 0,5 l/100km.

My BiTDi had the actuator fail just b4 covid i had 2 injection seals fail a few weeks back on inspection I swapped them all and cleaned the ports, seems some one had already been messing.


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[Nico05]

My BiTDi had the actuator fail just b4 covid i had 2 injection seals fail a few weeks back on inspection I swapped them all and cleaned the ports, seems some one had already been messing.


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Thnx for info, my car is now around 208000km, for this car is from my opinion nothing and 6 injectors isn't small malfunction, that much from Audi. In 100000 km ; spoliler extraction failed, wheel bearing, direction handle broke down, actuator of turbo, injectors...

[dean warren]

Mine is 209000km…


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[Nicu82]

Hello
I have the same problem. Audi a6 bitdi actuator stuck. I order g83 and when i try to mount i found my actuator was g90. Look the same. Did anyone know if is any problem if i install this one? Thank you

[Pabloguan]

I forgot to add:

There is also some 'noise' as the engine slows down on the overrun when revved at standstill; it sounds like it's releasing air/boost and it's coming from under the air filter/intake area.
I heard the noise before I plugged the VCDS in and I assumed that the problem was just a leaking boost hose.

finally what caused that sound? I have no faults and it drives fine but I have that annoying noise

[Riki90]

Hi guys bumping this thread, I somewhat have the same problem, The engine management light have not showed up in about 2500km now, my car, An SQ5 Biturbo 2014, driven 218.000 by now, Car works great, but have had 4x times the car has had the engine management light show, goes in limp mode, and had to turn off the car and on, worked fine after that. Now 2500km later has not happend again, i still managed to find one original part G 83 from an A6 driven 120.000km from Germany, was told this one was fully functional before it was taken of. Should arrive in a few days to me. Will deliver it to my local garage, and will be fitted, Hopefully this should be fine. I dont have alot of knowledge when it comes to these type of stuffi have no clue if calibration will be needed. tips would be appreciated, thanks.

[nordic_b]

I think before replacing the actuator someone could've checked if turbo geometry is actually not stuck. If it is, further investigation needs to be carried out why it got stuck - like, is it a wear, excess carbon build up, coolant contamination, etc. Functioning geometry even on high mileage cars moves freely throughout the whole range without any resistance.

[Riki90]

I have checked on VCDS got Turboactuator 1 - stuck

I dont mind replacing it as i got the part for a good price, Also been told that this is the main problem from a guy that i know, his friend, that lives pretty far away from where i live, told us that it is common and that he replaces these a couple of times every month or so at his garage.. Was also told that its very common on the biturbo models thats reached 200k kms or more…

[Elektroman]

So i spent a weekend by this topic because my regulator was damaged too. And i belieee i figure it out, so here it is for you:

Official audi procedure is:
To put special bracket end stop to the regulator, connect dedicated VAS machine and note actuator volatage when end stop is reach. Then replace the regulator, change bolts, and position it in the way so the volatage on the VAS display is exactly the same with tolerance 0.02V.

I studied the procedure and one think was cleare since begining if i remove old actuator nobody (maybe only Garett) will be able to setup new actuator as there will be no voltage end stop records. So i recomend to give this job somebody who owns the VAS device and who know the procedure...

Anyway i removed the old actuator because as mentioned from other members there is almost no free space in bolt holes so there is it seem there no way to position the new actuator incorrectly. Which you will see later is not true :)

So i order new actuator from Audi, cost about 500EUR. First difference i found as other mentioned old marking was G83 and new is G98.
I assembly everything together and voala.... Car was jerking around 1.100 rpms :) exactly as other mentioned.

Long story short i start to investigate where can be the problem and i found that with the new actuator as a part of repair kit you will get new bolts. If you go on the begining of my text where the audi procedure is mentioned there is point "change bolts for new' and it seems to be important point because new bolts are tapered close to the bolt head so you can move the actuator up and down little bit even the holes are circular.....

So i put new bolts, loose them and move whole actuator up, tight the screws going to test drive and car sems to runs fine since then. No jerking.

So hope it will help others. I recomend to change it properly with VAS device and end stop gauge.

[a.daniel]

Hello, everyone! Recently, my 2013 Audi A6 3.0 Bi-tdi has been experiencing an issue with the EML ( fix) and the coil light flashing on the dashboard. The error code is P2564 00 (167), indicating a problem with the “Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit - Signal too Low.” Sometimes, both lights appear simultaneously, but I can only reset the EML is with VCDS. However, if I attempt to drive with the coil light flashing, the car goes into limp mode.

When the coil light is flashing, the only way to cancel it is by turning the engine off and on again. Have any of you encountered this issue, and do you happen to know the location of this sensor?

However, approximately once or twice a week, these two error it reappear. Besides this issue, the car performs exceptionally well with 260,000 kilometers on it.

Thanks a lot in advance,
Dan

[Gabryel87]

Hello everyone! Recently, my 2015 audi a7 3.0 bitdi has been experiencing an issue sometimes when turn off and turn on the engine or accelerate the vehicle in bord appear intermittently spiral and the vehicle being slowly and it doesn't allow me to accelerate anymore
over 3000. If someone have any information about that I deeply appreciate it! Down i will upload the code that i found it.

IMG_1925.jpeg and 1 other file | Files.fm. (https://files.fm/u/ceqhr9hq84)

[BenJones1]

Dear All,

I hnow have the same problem with turbo actuator on my 2014 SQ5 3.0 diesel biturbo.

Please can someone letr me know if it is possible to change this without the removal of the heatshield?

Many thanks,

Ben

[BenJones1]

Hi RanjT,

Thank you for your pointers on how to remove the Audi actuator.

I read somewhere that someone said you had to remove the heatshield too. Is that correct? I'm hoping to remove from my 3.0 tdi SQ5 without having to do this. Do you know if any calibration or activation is required of new actuator? I've just bought a new Hella one on Ebay for £173. Says its 'not activated' so I'm hoping I can activate with VCDS. Maybe you know?


Cheers,

Ben




You can buy from TPS for around £252 plus vat or source a recon unit from ebay. Wouldnt consider 2nd hand as the internals are prone to wearing away.

Easiest way to get it off is follow the workshop manual for removal of the scuttle panel, bulkhead divider plate between engine and where wiper motor is.

Once thats removed its 3 bolts to remove the actuator and the circlip on the vanes rod. Remove the electrical plug and replacement is the opposite of removal.

You have to remove the bulkhead divider and heatshield to get the unit out and get the harness connector off, this is minimum u must remove to get the unit out.

[dean warren]

Dear All,

I hnow have the same problem with turbo actuator on my 2014 SQ5 3.0 diesel biturbo.

Please can someone letr me know if it is possible to change this without the removal of the heatshield?

Many thanks,

Ben

Hard to say as these are all A6 A7 and yours is an SQ5 which is closer to an A4 platform. The bulkhead on a Q5 comes out but is a pain in my opinion.


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[BenJones1]

Hi guys! I now have 'Turbocharge 1 actuator stuck open fault'. I've taken the actuator apart and it looks fine. Circuit board very clean and worm gear and gears look very good so I'm doubting the actuator.

Ive taken the circlip off at the actuator and the rod moves really freely with no friction, almost like its not connected to anthing at the turbo end, is this normal please?

thanks,

Ben

[RCbitdi]

Hello!
Has anyone encountered the actuator problem on an Audi, when the ECU did not record errors?

I have an A6 230 kW, there is a problem with the boost, dips during acceleration. This is especially noticeable on the highway. I have been to two VAG workshops, no one can find the problem.
I replaced MAF, MAP, Egr solenoid, N75, N529

The problem looks like this
When kickdown it is not felt
- YouTube (https://youtube.com/shorts/QmImVnenYUM?si=A1HkSYSjOeBve2yC)