B6 2.0TDi1 140 Rear Shock Recommendation?

[thedktor]

Hi all, as per title I need some rear shocks, any good deals out there, and how can I be sure what I buy is set right for my non-sports saloon suspension?

I see some Monroe shocks on eBay at a good price, or pair of Sachs for about £100 from euro car parts.

Or any other suggestions?

Thanks!

[Gazwould]

Bilstein B4 .

[DMitch16]

Hi all, as per title I need some rear shocks, any good deals out there, and how can I be sure what I buy is set right for my non-sports saloon suspension?

I see some Monroe shocks on eBay at a good price, or pair of Sachs for about £100 from euro car parts.

Or any other suggestions?

Thanks!

If you are prepared to wait a few days for delivery Auto Doc and Mister Auto usually have a large range of shocks at a range of very decent prices. Auto Doc is also known by a few other names for maximum coverage - best prices via their phone app.

[Stu Sheridan]

I've never had an issue with Monroe. Never splashed out as far as Bilstien [emoji23]

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[thedktor]

Thanks for the replies!

OK so some more "interneting" and Mister Auto might be getting my business shortly.... How do I know what is the correct shock though as I want the standard "soft" one not the sports or estate version, - there are two listed for my car "Standard suspension" and "All models". I assume "standard" ?

[DMitch16]

Thanks for the replies!

OK so some more "interneting" and Mister Auto might be getting my business shortly.... How do I know what is the correct shock though as I want the standard "soft" one not the sports or estate version, - there are two listed for my car "Standard suspension" and "All models". I assume "standard" ?

The Sport, R Line and Blue motion models usually need the 'For cars with Sports Suspension' version of the part. Those with the 'regular' suspension setup need the 'standard' version.

Front ride heights (axle centre to centre of wheel arch)
Sport and Blue motion 368mm
Standard and self levelling 383mm
Heavy duty 403mm

Rear ride heights
Sport 368mm
Blue motion 373mm
Standard 383mm
Self levelling 373mm
Heavy duty 393mm

Yours should be around 383mm all round if standard. Spring height differences will not however be the difference in the ride height as a loose rule of thumb because of compression coefficients for each type of spring (the B6 has 18 different OE spring versions). Shocks can be bought with varying dampening but springs are the support for the whole car on the running gear so contribute the most to the base comfort level with shocks controlling how the spring compresses and extends which affects the ride quality. Other factors such as suspension joints and bushes, tyre size and tyre brand choice all contribute to the ride so changing one part may not give you the instant result you may be seeking. Putting the right blend together or fitting a proven kit like the Eibach and Bilstein sets usually gives the best results.

[Crasher]

When it comes to replacing dampers on customers cars I take extra great care to get it right, most people would not care if it was off a different make of car as long as it fitted. The first step is to assertion the correct VAG part number and as there are around 10 possible vesrsions on a 2007 3C saloon (discounting those for sports, rough road or self levelling and 4M versions) it can get bewildering. I can’t check accurately without your VIN and from my iPad I can’t cross reference to OE supplier numbers. I would guesstimate that yours are 3C0 513 049 BR which cost £105.35 genuine or the genuine VW ECO version, JZW 513 025 N is £74.16 and I would use Sachs, Boge or Monroe but the latter can be more troublesome to get hold of. Sachs from Euro are more expensive on their web site than genuine VW ECO and only £7 less than a factory original genuine VW part! It always pays to check the genuine price of many items as often you are shocked and not only that, there is a two year labour inclusive warranty even if you fit them. Remember it is highly likely that you will need new bump stops and possibly the tubes (we stock Febi on these) and the top and bottom bolts MUST be replaced as they are one time only. The bottom bolt can be an absolute pain as it is 21mm hex and you cannot get a socket onto it and it is easy to cross thread it when re-fitting which is a disaster! To set this bolt to its correct torque using a conventional torque wrench (can’t remember the figure but 180Nm springs to mind) we have made a ring spanner/socket extension tool by welding a cheap 21mm ring spanner end to an old 1/2” drive socket. Then you need to measure the centre to centre distance and do a quick Google search to find a torque value converter to give you the correction figure.

[thedktor]

Thank you Mad Mitch and Crasher for your helpful replies.

I had already ordered the Monroe for standard suspension so will have to hope they are ok...

Any tips for getting the bottom bolt undone? I don't have a torch but could blast it with a heat gun.

[DMitch16]

Thank you Mad Mitch and Crasher for your helpful replies.

I had already ordered the Monroe for standard suspension so will have to hope they are ok...

Any tips for getting the bottom bolt undone? I don't have a torch but could blast it with a heat gun.

I have a DeWalt DCF899N so no bolt / nut is usually a problem. A 3 foot bar is my other weapon of choice. Dowse the nut and bolt with WD40 and leave to work for 20 minutes would help.

[Crasher]

There is no nut, it is an M14x1.5 thread directly into the hub carrier but it is at an off square angle both horizontally and vertically and not square to the damper lower bush sleeve, this is why it is easy to cross thread it upon re-assembly, if you get that far... The bolt passes through the hub so exposing around 5mm of thread the other side and over the space of ten ish years, this rusts. Then you come along and undoe this bolt, rotating the tail of a ten year old rusty high tensile 10.9 bolt all the way through a forged steel hubs thread, you can imagine what this softer thread then looks like.... The bolt itself is one time only and MUST not be re-used.... What also makes the bolt evil to remove is that a socket won’t work, you have to use a 21mm spanner.

[DMitch16]

My bad, the nut I was thinking of is on the wishbone.

Remember too that I had to get the 21mm spanner at the time as I didn't have one.

[thedktor]

Well, I can confirm that MONROE G1057 are perfect for my 140 SE model - the difference in ride from the knackered old shocks is quite pronounced, kind of firmer but less harsh and chattery.

Nearside shock had a small leak and had virtually no compression damping, and both shocks had no gas left so wouldn't extend back out on their own. Interestingly you would not easily have known they were faulty until removing as the usual "push down on the car and see what happens" suggested all was well as the rebound damping was still working, so no bounce.

The infamous 21mm headed bolts came off no problem - stuck my big ol' 32mm spanner on the end (see pic) and a confident shove soon shifted them.

Putting back on was not so easy! A small tip - with the shock off screw in the bolt and memorise the angle and the position of the head relative to the spring - as Crasher said it does go in "at an angle". Having done one, the next I compressed the shock and used the few seconds before it extended out to wriggle the bottom bolt into position. Perhaps better to strap it up compressed so you can move the shock around at your leisure to get the bolt lined up correctly.

35189

[thedktor]

An update on this as the Monroe shocks have become increasingly harsh over the last few months to the point where I am going to have to change them!

I’m thinking of going with BILSTEIN - B4 as they list two versions, one for standard suspension Bilstein 19-151069 and one for the sports. Makes sense.

“Bilstein B4 OE Replacement dampers are specifically engineered to be the best choice for maintaining the original ride quality of your vehicle, while meeting or exceeding OE standards. “


Doing a bit of internet trawling I get the impression that some aftermarket shocks add a bit of stiffness even when listed as “standard”, presumably to give the impression they are “better”. Well I just want a good ride that doesn’t crash over every bump! My son’s Golf from the same year rides noticeably smoother on the back while still feeling taut in the bends.

So, make sense?

[Crasher]

Could you private message me your reg number?

[Crasher]

The VW number for your rear dampers is 3C0 513 049 BQ which is a Bilstein B4 19-151069, Boge 30-D84-A, Monroe G1057, Sachs 311 346 or TRW JGT589, all are top quality.

[thedktor]

Thank you for clarifying that Crasher, much appreciated. I will ponder this for a short while and then order some new ones, yes....

[Crasher]

TRW do a neat twin pack under their number JGT589T and I have had good results with them, I have seen them ont tinterweb for £40.19 including VAT and carriage and that's a pair!

[Stu Sheridan]

Have they really deteriorated so much in just 4 months or is it that they're just too firm for your liking?

My estate has become more "clattery" over time. Nothing that I'd identify as a fault yet but at 136k, it's not the silent ride it once was.

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[DMitch16]

Have they really deteriorated so much in just 4 months or is it that they're just too firm for your liking?

My estate has become more "clattery" over time. Nothing that I'd identify as a fault yet but at 136k, it's not the silent ride it once was.

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Could be that other parts are wearing to the point that the ride is now harsher than 4 months ago? I put new Sachs on the front and rear of mine and they felt great for a good many months but I do notice the comfort I had at the beginning even with them being stiffer sports versions, has deteriorated slightly which I am certain is to do with other components getting near to the end of their life expectancy.

[JLawson90]

Crasher, if I PM you my reg number will you do the same part number list for me please?

[Stu Sheridan]

Could be that other parts are wearing to the point that the ride is now harsher than 4 months ago? I put new Sachs on the front and rear of mine and they felt great for a good many months but I do notice the comfort I had at the beginning even with them being stiffer sports versions, has deteriorated slightly which I am certain is to do with other components getting near to the end of their life expectancy.That's definitely the case for me. Ball joints, bushes etc are all 7 yrs / 136k old now.

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