Seat Ibiza PD130 BLT Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement

[foobar88]

Hi all,


I've recently had some issues with my Ibiza starting. At first it was the odd few extra seconds cranking, or it would fire on the second attempt. It then packed it and cranked no start. Code read it (not vagcom) and it gave "Engine speed sensor - No signal".


Checked the wiring, checked for continuity between the CPS (crankshaft position sensor) plug and ECU and ensured the sensor itself wasn't open circuit. Checked the plugs and terminals, cleaned them up and put it back together.


It then started, I cleared the codes and went on my way. It worked for a day or two then returned to a crank no start state. Rechecked the wiring, cranked with camshaft position sensor unplugged which made no difference.


Ordered up a crank sensor and oil filter housing gasket from TPS and got it today. Bit of a pig, oil pressure switch off, 4 filter housing bolts off (snapped my ball-end hex in one, lovely). As I was on my driveway I left the coolant lines connected and the turbo oil feed pipe. Some more swearing later I got the pesky 12 point bolt out holding the CPS in and tried to budge it.


It wasn't having any of it. Penetrating spray, brute force and everything else under the sun. With a long pry bar I gently rocked the sensor to free it slightly, went underneath and gave it a good old tug and out it came. Inspected the old sensor and this is where I realized.


Attention Required! | Cloudflare (https://prnt.sc/k4ek73) (here you can see where it snapped on the sensor)


Attention Required! | Cloudflare (https://prnt.sc/k4elnl) (here you can see the snapped piece inside the block)


Part of the old sensor had remained in the block, breaking at the face of the sensor. Due to the horrible access and the nature of it I'm unsure of how to proceed.


The only thing I can think of is to completely remove the oil filter housing, possibly the front end too and melt it out?

[Crasher]

The only solution is gearbox out and clutch off with sump off so you can replace the crank oil seal holder which itself is plastic. To fit the new seal you MUST use a special seal alignment tool with the crank locked at the front with the front pulley off or the car will not start.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/BKDG28location.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/BKDG28location.jpg.html)

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/ToolT10134.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/ToolT10134.jpg.html)

[foobar88]

The only solution is gearbox out and clutch off with sump off so you can replace the crank oil seal holder which itself is plastic. To fit the new seal you MUST use a special seal alignment tool with the crank locked at the front with the front pulley off or the car will not start.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/BKDG28location.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/BKDG28location.jpg.html)

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/ToolT10134.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/ToolT10134.jpg.html)

Thanks for the quick response.

I was thinking of using an extractor (like you would with rounded fasteners) to remove it, or softening it with a torch and removing it, or by cutting it and removing it.

Why does the crank oil seal holder need to be replaced now?

Thanks!

[Crasher]

The bolt is in a brass insert which is bonded inside the plastic seal holder, if you heat it up it will melt. To get an extraction at the bolt you will need the seal off the engine so then it has to be replaced. When fitting a new seal it is critical that the crank running surface and the new seal are completely clean, dry and oil free as they are made from Teflon which must not be oiled.

[foobar88]

The bolt is in a brass insert which is bonded inside the plastic seal holder, if you heat it up it will melt. To get an extraction at the bolt you will need the seal off the engine so then it has to be replaced. When fitting a new seal it is critical that the crank running surface and the new seal are completely clean, dry and oil free as they are made from Teflon which must not be oiled.

Cheers, managed to get it out by stripping everything around it for better access then cutting a small slit with a knife to release the tension then corkscrewed it out with a variety of picks etc (those small snapon picks keep surprising me with their strength).

Put it all back together and it works like a charm.

Thanks again.