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View Full Version : vw touran 1.6 FSI Problem please help



Ronniee77
06-02-2017, 10:29 PM
Hello guys,

I am a new member and I hope one of you guys could help me out.

Vehicle details: vw touran 1.6 FSI (http://www.amazon.co.uk/-/dp/B0030893R0) / 2003 / 6 gear manual / petrol

The problem I am currently having is a starting and hesitation issue.

In the early morning the car starts without any problem but once it is warm it's a nightmare. I always have to press the gas pedal (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=gas+pedal) to keep the car on once I turned the key to ignite the car. When I drive and stop on red traffic lights I put the car in neutral and then it starts to shake and feels like that is going off at some point which it doesn't.
I also realised is drinks quite a lot of petrol and is very annoying. The yellow engine light is on too even though you deleted it.

However, a friend of mine he checked he car with a fault code finder and it said crankshaft sensor. I have bought the crankshaft sensor but I could not change so far because I do not know where the sensor is located. I only know the camshaft sensor (http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=camshaft%20sensor) which is right on the top of the engine.

Is someone able to tell me a bit more about the issue I am having ? Did someone have the same or similar issue and got it sorted out ?
Could someone tell me if I am able to change the sensor on my Owen or will it be impossible to reach the sensor to change ?

it would be helpful if someone could tell me where the sensor is loctaced.

i am looking forward to get an answer and a little help.

kind regards,

ronny

Crasher
06-02-2017, 11:29 PM
We could do with a little more detail about the fault code than just crank sensor, there are quite a few variations on the code. The sensor is located around the back of the engine pointing through the block at a magnetic disc which is part of the rear crankshaft oil seal and is extremely difficult to change without removing the inlet manifold BUT removing the inlet manifold on a 1.6 FSI is a nasty can of worms that can turn and bite you. With the car on a lift it is just about possible to get to the sensor but take great care not to round out the head of the bolt or that will mean gearbox out. I would show you a picture but as usual Photobucket is broken and will not let me.

Ronniee77
07-02-2017, 06:39 PM
We could do with a little more detail about the fault code than just crank sensor, there are quite a few variations on the code. The sensor is located around the back of the engine pointing through the block at a magnetic disc which is part of the rear crankshaft oil seal and is extremely difficult to change without removing the inlet manifold BUT removing the inlet manifold on a 1.6 FSI is a nasty can of worms that can turn and bite you. With the car on a lift it is just about possible to get to the sensor but take great care not to round out the head of the bolt or that will mean gearbox out. I would show you a picture but as usual Photobucket is broken and will not let me.


hello crashed,

thank you very much for your reply.

I appreciate what you are saying, however I cannot provide any other fault code as it was diy tested with cheap £150 fault finder.
Did you have ever had this issue heard before ? Could you tell me what it could be ? Is there any chance to narrow it down in terms of faults like sensor, or pumps, blocked pipes etc ... ?

I have read that quite a few people had the same or very similar issue.

it would great to get a little help.

kind regards

ron

FLAPPERJACK76
07-02-2017, 10:16 PM
The way to check it really is to scope the crank sensor with an oscilloscope. It's a 3 pin sensor and terminal 2 will be sensor output voltage ..and well like Crasher said it's a real pain in the A to get to. I have done a few of these on 1.6 fsi engines so in my opinion an educated guess would be the crank sensor is duff. and the fastest reliable way of replacing them I find is to remove the inlet manifold ( like he said). Or you can do it underneath standing up with a mirror and if I remember correctly it's a 4 or 5 mm allen key socket and absolutely miserable to fit it . The bolt is at the back at an angle. Left of the block looking to the front of the car near the gearbox just above the sump pan.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Crasher
08-02-2017, 02:06 PM
Knowing the engine and reading your symptoms the first job I would be doing (other than a proper code read) is getting the locking tools out and checking the valve timing.

FLAPPERJACK76
08-02-2017, 04:08 PM
Good point. The tolerance on these engines are ridiculously small. Iirc 0.01mm

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Crasher
08-02-2017, 06:02 PM
I know what a sod these are for jumping a tooth if the engine is rotated anti-clock or no good or obvious reason. Why they didn't fit a stepped ratchet to the tensioner like on the EA888 engine God only knows, stupid stupid bad decision. A tiny piece of spring steel and a couple of machined grooves would stop this.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/P1010006_zpse2c8e64d.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/P1010006_zpse2c8e64d.jpg.html)

FLAPPERJACK76
08-02-2017, 06:08 PM
Oh yeah. I remember now. It says in the instructions under no circumstances turn the engine anti clockwise. Another engine Volkswagen "dropped the ball"on.

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Crasher
08-02-2017, 06:32 PM
On the EA888 it has the one way catch, why would it need to go backwards? It's just still penny pinching

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/P1020097_zpsykypqmuw.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/P1020097_zpsykypqmuw.jpg.html)