Crankfoam

[BiscuTMonkeY]

Basically overfilled the engine oil of my 1.8t 99 A4 by nearly 500ml drove on the highway for around 60km before the music was turned down and heard the noise, the car then proceeded to the nearest highway exit at around 100km/h upon reaching the exit the car slowly died and now will spin but not fire. I have already dumped oil and replaced spark plugs still same issue first kick sounds like it goes to fire but doesnt is this now the cat converter?

[Crasher]

Half a litre is bugger all, I have had them come in with four litres too much. I can't see how it would be the cat unless it was blocked solid. What was the noise you heard? When you say "spin" do you get the usually beat beat beat sensation of an engine that is just cranking or is it more constant and linear, like the plugs are out?

[BiscuTMonkeY]

Half a litre is bugger all, I have had them come in with four litres too much. I can't see how it would be the cat unless it was blocked solid. What was the noise you heard? When you say "spin" do you get the usually beat beat beat sensation of an engine that is just cranking or is it more constant and linear, like the plugs are out?

Its that inital sound when turning the key like starter motor spinning then its like its not firing to give it the kick to start it and continues trying to start but just spinning all belts are intact bearing? I dropped 2x 1.25 coke bottle and just under a litre of another in oil


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[BiscuTMonkeY]

New plugs i gapped myself but looking at cleaning up the old ones as they were doused in oil and using those again


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[Crasher]

Well that's 3.5 litres of oil so not 500mL. Check your cam timing. You may have to flush out the cylinders with some solvent.

[BiscuTMonkeY]

Well that's 3.5 litres of oil so not 500mL. Check your cam timing. You may have to flush out the cylinders with some solvent.

Its takes 3.6 i was told and after refilling that amount corresponds with the correct lvl on the dipstick after refilling. You mean down the spark plug holes is good enough or take more engine apart im getting vagcom just waiting on postage for codes


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[Crasher]

Yes, plugs out, coil packs disabled and solvent in the bores and crank it over until clean, take care what you use.

[BiscuTMonkeY]

Yes, plugs out, coil packs disabled and solvent in the bores and crank it over until clean, take care what you use.

Just simple as unplug coil packs and were talking other than ones connected to spark plugs


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[BiscuTMonkeY]

Yes, plugs out, coil packs disabled and solvent in the bores and crank it over until clean, take care what you use.

Is spray degreaser ok?


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[Crasher]

Personally I would use brake cleaner as it evaporates quickly. Yes, disconnected the coil packs from their power stops them generating a spark which could be interesting with volatile chemicals around :firedevil plus they do not like being triggered when they aren't installed, it can make them fail, which is annoying.

[BiscuTMonkeY]

Personally I would use brake cleaner as it evaporates quickly. Yes, disconnected the coil packs from their power stops them generating a spark which could be interesting with volatile chemicals around :firedevil plus they do not like being triggered when they aren't installed, it can make them fail, which is annoying.

Have done throttle body cleaner loosened alot of stale oil but replace sparks still no start


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[Crasher]

You need to check for a spark and this means each plug must be soundly earthed to prevent damage to the coil pack. Even then you can get a spark from a faulty coil pack in the open atmosphere but once under compression in the cylinder at 14Bar, the spark will not ionize and jump the gap. Are you sure fuel is being injected?

[BiscuTMonkeY]

You need to check for a spark and this means each plug must be soundly earthed to prevent damage to the coil pack. Even then you can get a spark from a faulty coil pack in the open atmosphere but once under compression in the cylinder at 14Bar, the spark will not ionize and jump the gap. Are you sure fuel is being injected?

Checking the injectors today


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[BiscuTMonkeY]

Codes
01262
00544
16487
16507
16515
16711
16716
00515
00670

I know what the codes are and judging by what ive seen i need to replace? The wastage bypass regulator valve or just check? And my camshaft position sensor is gone or i need a new distributor?


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[Crasher]

The can't all be permanent codes.

What is the cars engine type code?

[BiscuTMonkeY]

00670
16507
01262
After erasing codes
These come back continually


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[Crasher]

00670 - Throttle Position Sensor (G127)

This can be “Signal too Low”, “signal too high” or “Implausible signal”

You need to state which it is

16507 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Signal too High

01262 - Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)

This can be “Short to Ground”, “Short to plus” or “output open”

Again you need to say which it is

[BiscuTMonkeY]

It was to ground i have sorted that, codes erased start again comes back wastage bypass regulator valve pulled throttle body off oil all through it will clean up but this isnt going to cause the car not to start is it?


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[Crasher]

What is the code number?

[BiscuTMonkeY]

What is the code number?

01262


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[BiscuTMonkeY]

01262


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[BiscuTMonkeY]

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[BiscuTMonkeY]

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[Crasher]

What is your engine type code, AEB, AJL, ANB, APU or ARK?

Why have you taken the Inlet Air Temp sender G42 out and posted a picture of it?

Assuming the code 01262 is the "open to ground" version and you have no codes for Air Mass Meter, EVAP, and lambda heater then you need to check the continuity of the N75 command wire back to the ECU.

[BiscuTMonkeY]

What is your engine type code, AEB, AJL, ANB, APU or ARK?

Why have you taken the Inlet Air Temp sender G42 out and posted a picture of it?

Assuming the code 01262 is the "open to ground" version and you have no codes for Air Mass Meter, EVAP, and lambda heater then you need to check the continuity of the N75 command wire back to the ECU.

Oil had flowed all the way through my throttle body was wondering if cleaning that could help the problem? The original codes that showed up were
01262
00544-max charge air exc
17978?
16487-maf circuit high input
16507- throt pos sen A cir hv input
16515- 02 sen cir LV bank 1 sen 1
16711- knock sen #1 cir low input
16716 - knock sen #2 low input bank 2
00515- camsh pos sen(hall effect sen) shrt B+ (g40)
00670 - thrt pos sen G127
After clearing codes
01262
Keeps returning when scanning engine


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[BiscuTMonkeY]

Oil had flowed all the way through my throttle body was wondering if cleaning that could help the problem? The original codes that showed up were
01262
00544-max charge air exc
17978?
16487-maf circuit high input
16507- throt pos sen A cir hv input
16515- 02 sen cir LV bank 1 sen 1
16711- knock sen #1 cir low input
16716 - knock sen #2 low input bank 2
00515- camsh pos sen(hall effect sen) shrt B+ (g40)
00670 - thrt pos sen G127
After clearing codes
01262
Keeps returning when scanning engine


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Didnt write properly for obvious reasons


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[BiscuTMonkeY]

What is your engine type code, AEB, AJL, ANB, APU or ARK?

Why have you taken the Inlet Air Temp sender G42 out and posted a picture of it?

Assuming the code 01262 is the "open to ground" version and you have no codes for Air Mass Meter, EVAP, and lambda heater then you need to check the continuity of the N75 command wire back to the ECU.

Also seen exactally this on youtube today


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[Crasher]

I need your engines type code, AEB, AJL, ANB, APU or ARK, not the fault codes.

[BiscuTMonkeY]

I need your engines type code, AEB, AJL, ANB, APU or ARK, not the fault codes.

Check pm


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[Crasher]

It has an AJL engine (132Kw), DWR box, a DAJ final drive, it is a type 8D2 0G5 and was built 15.07.1999 and is a 2000 model year.
You need to check the continuity of the yellow/white wire from pin 2 on the N75 plug back to pin 64 on the ECU plug.
With the fuel pump running, pin 1 on the N75 (red/green) should have battery voltage.

[BiscuTMonkeY]

It has an AJL engine (132Kw), DWR box, a DAJ final drive, it is a type 8D2 0G5 and was built 15.07.1999 and is a 2000 model year.
You need to check the continuity of the yellow/white wire from pin 2 on the N75 plug back to pin 64 on the ECU plug.
With the fuel pump running, pin 1 on the N75 (red/green) should have battery voltage.

May have diagnosed the pcv had split at the T and plastic line connecting had massive split


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[Crasher]

I would not have expected that to cause a non starting problem and if it had been running with that for any length of time it would have stored idle and mixture control errors amongst others.

[FrenchAudi]

This seems to be moving further and further from the first post, regarding the engine oil being overfilled, which could have caused a variety of problems.

The OP does not seem to have followed any of the suggestions, e.g. instead of cleaning out the cylinders, he seems to have cleaned out the throttle body.

Does "I dropped 2x 1.25 coke bottle and just under a litre of another in oil" mean that this was the amount of oil removed to return to the correct level, or the total amount of oil removed to empty the sump?

It's beginning to sound to me as if the turbo oil seal has failed and excessive oil is going into the intake system.

[BiscuTMonkeY]

This seems to be moving further and further from the first post, regarding the engine oil being overfilled, which could have caused a variety of problems.

The OP does not seem to have followed any of the suggestions, e.g. instead of cleaning out the cylinders, he seems to have cleaned out the throttle body.

Does "I dropped 2x 1.25 coke bottle and just under a litre of another in oil" mean that this was the amount of oil removed to return to the correct level, or the total amount of oil removed to empty the sump?

It's beginning to sound to me as if the turbo oil seal has failed and excessive oil is going into the intake system.

I had dropped all oil from the sump filling the coke bottles as where else would i drain all the oil simple maths is just under or over the 4L mark?
Spark plugs were removed and cleaner was thrown into the cylinders and cleaned alot of oil out
Then oil was drained (from the sump again)
Refilled correct level
Then as im following lines and watching youtube self help vids and speaking to a mech i removed throttle body and oil was everywhere yes pouring into the dump pipes seen they were coated in oil where i know it shouldnt but my pcv valve was split and the casing which apart from the oil in the going through the throttle i cant understand why. The problem only occured after putting oil in the car driving the highway hearing the awful tick sound then the car stalled itself just after exiting the highway.

Have explained every step as ive done it and everything i have done leading up to the event, have you been following the topic from the start?


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[BiscuTMonkeY]

I would not have expected that to cause a non starting problem and if it had been running with that for any length of time it would have stored idle and mixture control errors amongst others.

Below with oil in the intake are we talking leading out of the throttle body cause also makes sense relays and fuses are fine have not tested voltage yet will need multi


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[BiscuTMonkeY]

I would not have expected that to cause a non starting problem and if it had been running with that for any length of time it would have stored idle and mixture control errors amongst others.

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[FrenchAudi]

I had dropped all oil from the sump filling the coke bottles as where else would i drain all the oil simple maths is just under or over the 4L mark?
Spark plugs were removed and cleaner was thrown into the cylinders and cleaned alot of oil out
Then oil was drained (from the sump again)
Refilled correct level
Then as im following lines and watching youtube self help vids and speaking to a mech i removed throttle body and oil was everywhere yes pouring into the dump pipes seen they were coated in oil where i know it shouldnt but my pcv valve was split and the casing which apart from the oil in the going through the throttle i cant understand why. The problem only occured after putting oil in the car driving the highway hearing the awful tick sound then the car stalled itself just after exiting the highway.

Have explained every step as ive done it and everything i have done leading up to the event, have you been following the topic from the start?

Yes, I have read and followed your topic from the beginning. Have you looked back over it?

Your title is "Crankfoam" but you said nothing about this.
I found your descriptions, and terminology such as "dropped", "dumped", "thrown", etc. confusing.
You didn't reply to Crasher's question as to the noise you heard on the road.
You don't seem to have checked your cam timing as he suggested.
After he suggested cleaning out the cylinders you replied "Have done throttle body cleaner loosened alot of stale oil but replace sparks still no start", which seemed to me as if you just cleaned the throttle body.
After Crasher wrote "You need to check for a spark and this means each plug must be soundly earthed to prevent damage to the coil pack. Even then you can get a spark from a faulty coil pack in the open atmosphere but once under compression in the cylinder at 14Bar, the spark will not ionize and jump the gap. Are you sure fuel is being injected?" You replied "Checking the injectors today" - nothing about sparks.
In your last post you quoted Crasher but you did not say anything, and I could not understand your post before that.

Maybe the confusion is due to you talking to so many different people and also using textspeak on your iphone. I lived some time in Australia and thought I understood the language, but it seems to have changed since then.

I won't bother you with any further comments.

[BiscuTMonkeY]

Yes, I have read and followed your topic from the beginning. Have you looked back over it?

Your title is "Crankfoam" but i said i overfilled oil and had it go into crankcasing and whip the oil?

I won't bother you with any further comments.

And all youve done is point out my faults, not tried to help in anyway or had even anygood advice on my faults thanks for not leaving anymore comments i dont like being put down.

Sparks are brand new but issue i need multi to check wiring on bank 1,2.




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[BiscuTMonkeY]

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