P261A – Coolant Pump 2 issue (pump failure), need advice.

[jkeeeng]

Hey guys!

I am driving Audi A4 B8 2.0 TDI 170 with CAHA engine.
Have a following problem with auxiliary coolant pump.

4875 - Coolant Pump 2
P261A 00 [175] - Open Circuit
MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 224221 km
Date: 2016.05.06
Time: 07:40:02

From freeze frame I can say it happened in the morning me driving to work, but check engine sign appeared only in the afternoon same day, when I started warmed engine. I tried to clear the fault code, but with no success. After few tries check engine sign disappeared, but the fault code is still there.

Pump makes no sound. Found pump pinout on one of the forums. Pin 1 and Pin2 (motor) and pin 3 signal to ECU. Checked pump resistance, it seems no connection at all. So I assume the pump is dead. I decided to order coolant pump today, and unfortunately no one keeps it in stock and it will arrive only on Tuesday afternoon. At Audi dealer they quoted me 145£ inc. VAT, so not so bad. Pump part number is: 03L 965 561 (maybe someone will find it useful).

I will try to replace it myself, as from other people experience it seems not difficult.

Got the following few questions to you guys:

1. What is worst case scenario in case of continuing driving car for the next following days with faulty non-working auxiliary pump? Basically two days to work and back is about 100 miles in total. As I already mentioned it will be only on Tuesday, but this is my only car and only one option to get to work. As I am understanding pump just helps to recirculate coolant for EGR and inside heater? Correct if I am wrong?

2. Are any commonly made mistakes during pump replacement that I need to know and avoid, of course If anyone had a previous experience with additional coolant pump.

[RdN]

Hi,
I have the same problem. I spoke to mechanics and it's not a problem to drive without working pump.
Have you replaced it? Do you have any instruction? Can you give me some tips how to do it and what should I pay attention to. I would like to do it quickly but more important to avoid the mistakes.
I wonder about the air that can get to the system during the replacement.

Thanks
Pawel

[jkeeeng]

Hi Pawel,

Yes, I have sorted the problem out. It was faulty pump. I have measured contacts with multimeter first for conductivity and resistance.

Pinout of pump is following:

S - Signal
+ - Positive
- - Negative

I have measured resistance between all of them. And found that there is no signal between Signal and positive or negative.

After that, I have measured voltage between negative (ground) and positive (with turn on ignition) should be about 12volts or more, and measured the voltage between voltage between negative and Signal pin on the connector, you should get some voltage about 3-5 volts (don't remember)
now).

Changing the pump I have used Hose Clamps from both sides. I have applied them before removing hoses. They seems done the job. Or any kind stoppers will do the job. I also bought a spare 1L can of G13 (as they not selling G12 any more, G13 is a next gen coolant that you can mix with G12 already in the coolant tank as Audi technician told me) from Audi dealer centre to top up, as you still will lose a bit of coolant.

Also, to make sure that there is no much air will be in the system, I just bought a small syringe from local pharmacy and after connecting the bottom hose (input arrow on the pump) that goes from the coolant tank and engine. I tried to fill the pump full of coolant and connected second output hose to the pump. Don't worry about air in the system after pump to much, it will get out after few miles. Only make sure your pump full of coolant, as if it will be air possibly (not sure) it can make a problems. But mine working now without any problems.

In addition, to this without key in the ignition! And connect your pump connector only when you are sure you connected all hoses back. As pump turns on as soon you turn ignition, or even when you unlock car.

Regards,
Jev

Link to clamps I have used:

3pc Flexible Hands Free Hose Pliers Pipe Clamp Plier Set Brake Radiator | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3pc-Flexible-Hands-Free-Hose-Pliers-Pipe-Clamp-Plier-Set-Brake-Radiator-/221525296511?hash=item3393efc57f:g:HPgAAOSwv0tU5Gp 6)

Pump cost me around 145£ incl. VAT at Audi Dealer centre. Took two days to get it.
Coolant cost me around 10£ incl. VAT they had it on the shelf, no need in ordering in advance.

30741307423074330744

[samiam]

I'm about to do this job on a Skoda yeti TDI. Where is the pump located?


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[Boy]

Presumably there will be more chance of a helpful and knowledgeable response in the Yeti section?

[FLAPPERJACK76]

I'm about to do this job on a Skoda yeti TDI. Where is the pump located?


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It's at the front of the engine underneath. Easy peasy.

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