A6 1.9 TDI losing coolant

[Rudidudi]

Hi guys,

I have noticed that the coolant on my Dad's recently purchased TDI is loosing coolant.

There is evidence of water under the expansion tank, and wetness on the small spout under the expansion tank.

When I undo the cap, the water rises back.

I have done some basic reading and there are horror stories that range from head gasket, to cracked block, etc.

I was kind of hoping that the cap could be a culprit, but does anyone know what I to do to check this properly?

The engine runs very well, it is a genuine 74k with full service history...

Any help appreciated.

[zollaf]

it would help to know the engine code of this engine as the range covers quite a few 1.9 tdis, all with their own problems.

[Rudidudi]

Thanks

The engine code is AJM

[ceilidhalfie]

How much coolant are you losing? There is a breather vent in the expansion cap. If there is too much coolant or a scenario where there is too much expansion, the coolant vents thru the cap until level/pressure is back to normal. On an ake engine (ie my Allroad), the exhauster pump underneath gets covered. In my situation, coolant gets vented if, when cold, the expansion is above MINIMUM level. This anomaly appeared just before I replaced the belts, waterpump and tstat. However, the anomaly is still there. I do not lose any coolant and if I do not fill above MINIMUM, no pink exhauster pump!
It is not just me - there is at least one other forum member with the same anomaly!

[Rudidudi]

It seems to be a fair amount. At one point it was well below the minimum line...

I'll try and leave it on the minimum line and report back.

There is lots of residue on the pipework underneath the expansion tank.

[adamss24]

Head gasket and cracked heads are comon on the pd115 engines...

[MiniMental]

I know I suspected my head gasket on my Passat. Coolant one day vanished and warning came on. Turned out 3 months later radiator burst and left me stranded. Ends had rotted off. Worth a quick check. Wasn't the most obvious thing to look at.

Good luck

Mini

[B5NUT]

Your Head Gasket is shot, had the same fault on my AJM engine. It's a cheap enough fix if you can do the job yourself.

[Rudidudi]

Thanks guys, appreciate the comments.

Is there any definitive test for the head gasket? I hear that the blue liquid hydrocarbon tests are inconclusive on a diesel...

Also, anyone able to point me to a head removal and reassembly guide - so I can see whats involved in the headgasket change? I'm fairly handy with spanners, just like to do lots of research before I even make a start... !

Any info appreciated guys, thanks...

[B5NUT]

If the hoses are rock hard after a run, then the only way they could build up that much pressure is from the engine compression stroke, it's very unlikely a cracked head. Also whatever you do don't get the head skimmed, just remove the head clean up both surfaces and stick in a new HG in. My AJM has now got 310K on the clock and running well, so if you only have 74K then it's worth getting it done.

[Rudidudi]

The hoses were not rock hard, but firm iirc, i'll need to check straight after driving. Its town driving so not much hard driving or revving possible. My dad said that motorway temps rose to 100 briefly at higher effort.

Any headgasket removal guides out there?

[ceilidhalfie]

The hoses were not rock hard, but firm iirc, i'll need to check straight after driving. Its town driving so not much hard driving or revving possible. My dad said that motorway temps rose to 100 briefly at higher effort.

Any headgasket removal guides out there?

PM me your car year, model, engine code, auto or manual and e-mail id and I will send you PDFs of the relevant sections of the maint manual.

[Rudidudi]

Thanks, ive pinged you the info :)

Is this set all i need for the cambelt removal and refitting?
BERGEN Professional Timing Locking Kit for VAG vehicles BER3168: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools (http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IICLO2K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3QVE9I6JT9UQ3&coliid=I10KPZV9KMU41A)

[Rudidudi]

Also, any ideas on how to check to see if the water pump has failed?

should i see water flowing into the expansion tank whilst the engine is running?

[ceilidhalfie]

Thanks, ive pinged you the info :)

Is this set all i need for the cambelt removal and refitting?
BERGEN Professional Timing Locking Kit for VAG vehicles BER3168: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools (http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IICLO2K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3QVE9I6JT9UQ3&coliid=I10KPZV9KMU41A)

Just to say I now have your details. Will email you the pdfs early afternoon today. Will include cambelt changes section which will include the tools required for your engine.
Re how to tell if water pump has failed, the engine would start to overheat. Expansion tank's purpose is as per its name - with engine running, the coolant EXPANDS into the expansion tank - - all is under pressure and cap should not be loosened. You will notice the level in the expansion tank is higher when engine is hot and running than when it engine is cold and off.

[Doctle Odd]

My son had a bora with an AJM, twice the expansion tank started leaking at the seam. New from VW about €30 so £20 or so in the UK

[Rudidudi]

Had a quick look at the car today

The leak is definitely from the small outlet on the bottom of the expansion tank. There doesnt appear to be any cracks or leaks from elsewhere.

A few additional observations...

- temperature takes a long time to rise, after 3-4 miles in london traffic the gauge barely passed the 60 mark
- the heater was apparently working yesterday, but when i checked today it only had cold air pumping out, checked again later and was warm
- VCDS shows water temp as 59.4 degrees after 15 mins idling - doesnt seem to be increasing
- Dash gauge just over 60 degree mark
- Electric fan was operating - should this be on?

I removed the thinner hose at the front of the expansion tank and there was no water flowing from it. Should this have water flowing from it?
I lowered this pipe into a plastic drink bottle and steaming hot water drained out.

[Doctle Odd]

There's a series of tests you need to carry out to see if you can isolate the problem. Depends on your spannering skills whether you can do them yourself. Remove and replace the thermostat is the first job, this will also allow you to check the water pump impeller. You'd also need to to a sniff test on the expansion bottle, I'd replace it too it's cheap. Is there any water contamination in the oil (mayonnaise like stuff) After that it's Henry VIII and off with her head

[ceilidhalfie]

Rudi - eMail sent!

[Rudidudi]

Thanks! I've got quite a bit to read!

So, looking at the below, a few things I double checked.

- The leak is definitely from the small outlet on the bottom of the expansion tank. There doesnt appear to be any cracks or leaks from elsewhere. No leaking but no cracks I can see

- temperature takes a long time to rise, after 3-4 miles in london traffic the gauge barely passed the 60 mark. Idling for 20 minutes gauge didnt move

- the heater was apparently working yesterday, but when i checked today it only had cold air pumping out, checked again later and was warm. Heater pushed out warm air

- Electric fan was operating. Electric fan on from cold. The fan being on permanently seems odd, especially with mild weather

- No water flowing from small pipe to expansion tank. Confirmed


Any ideas on what is right and wrong above appreciated :)

[mrnice]

Temp gauge should see dead on 90deg c (on dash guage) but these engines take an age to warm up (mine takes at least 10 mins). Personally I'd replace the thermostat with a genuine one and replace the coolant reservior, replace water pump (and of course timing belt and associated bits). Electric fan cutting in early is indeed odd. Maybe check/replace temp sensor (bottom of rad)?

[ceilidhalfie]

Thanks! I've got quite a bit to read!

So, looking at the below, a few things I double checked.

- The leak is definitely from the small outlet on the bottom of the expansion tank. There doesnt appear to be any cracks or leaks from elsewhere. No leaking but no cracks I can see

- temperature takes a long time to rise, after 3-4 miles in london traffic the gauge barely passed the 60 mark. Idling for 20 minutes gauge didnt move

- the heater was apparently working yesterday, but when i checked today it only had cold air pumping out, checked again later and was warm. Heater pushed out warm air

- Electric fan was operating. Electric fan on from cold. The fan being on permanently seems odd, especially with mild weather

- No water flowing from small pipe to expansion tank. Confirmed


Any ideas on what is right and wrong above appreciated :)

Re electric fan, these fans have two speeds - low and high and if it is like my 2002 Allroad, the fan is always on low - until in hot weather, when in traffic or idling a while, the electric fan will go full boost as the viscous fan cannot keep the temp at 90 degrees. With aircon on and in hot weather, the coolant temp will quickly rise above 90 degrees if the electric fan does not come on full boost. You may wonder how I know this - the brushes on my electric fan wore out and fan ceased to operate - I only noticed when sitting in a carpark in France (temp 34 degrees) with aircon on and noticed the temp gauge rising!
Re long time getting up to 90 degrees. I have the same problem (could be my tstat is not fully closing). I change the coolant temp sender (its ontop of my AKE engine) frequently and that seems to work for a while.

[MiniMental]

In addition to the above, on my Passat, the electric fan runs when climate control is in "AUTO" mode. If I press "ECON", the electric fan stops instantly. No matter what the ambient temp is.

Mini

[Rudidudi]

In addition to the above, on my Passat, the electric fan runs when climate control is in "AUTO" mode. If I press "ECON", the electric fan stops instantly. No matter what the ambient temp is.

Mini

Thanks! Thats one less thing to investigate, switched to 'econ' and the fan stopped!

Could anyone tell me where the temp sensors are located please?

[mrnice]

Sensor for fan on rad bottom hose (you have to poke your head under bumper, possibly with under tray off to see it), coolant temp sensor (for ecu and temp guage) back of head on left (looking from front of car) under air inlet elbow. Bit of a fiddle to get to it.

[Rudidudi]

I have taken a look and can see a couple of candidates (see pics 1 and 2 below)...

If the dash gauge is not moving, and so far VCDS is reading 59 degrees (will check again as soon as tablet is charged), which sensor should I look at replacing first?

I will of course change the thermostat first and check the water pump impeller...


1. Back of engine by the bulkhead, viewed from driver side

http://s18.postimg.org/y2qoyjk5l/IMG_20151212_133840.jpg

2. Front of the engine bay, down at the bottom of the radiator, passenger side.

http://s18.postimg.org/uhutfbfm1/IMG_20151212_133855.jpg

3. Mess the dried coolant has made!

http://s18.postimg.org/o7zjsbg7d/IMG_20151212_133903.jpg

[mrnice]

Bingo!

If replacing them get a few of the plastic clips that secure them as the old ones tend to snap when removing, then ping out of sight

[ceilidhalfie]

The G62 Coolant Temp Sender is the green one in your first pic. I have sent you pdf on how to check G62 via VCDS and with multi-meter. To remove, simply unplug the electrical connector and, with small screwdriver, gently lever out the plastic clip - be ready to catch it as it will ping off down the engine somewhere - you are wondering how I know this! Also, if replacing, where the G62 is situated on my Allroad, it is dificult to get the fingers of both hands on the clip to insert. I found if you wear the clip like a ring on one of your middle fingers, you can use this finger to lign up the clip and then with your other hand, push the clip into place as you remove the "ring". Sounds daft, but it make this job a doddle!
Like Mrnice, I have a few spare in the glove compartment!
Re the electric fan, as MiniMental says, on ECON, electric fan will stop - I forgot about that as I never have ECON on.

[Rudidudi]

The econ button seems to have made all the difference.

I took the car out today for a spin and it reached temperature

The graph is from VCDS values for coolant temp in degrees (from measuring block 12)

It did take approximately 30 minutes to get to 90 degrees.

It peaked at 94 degrees so i made my way home, on residential streets, the last 3 or 4 minutes were idling.

The bottom hose was cold, should this be so?

http://s18.postimg.org/cezwilo09/A6_Temp.jpg

[Doctle Odd]

I have had a 1.9 TDi engine in something or other VAG for the last 15 years. 5 miles on average the engine is up to 90 and pretty much stays there. I'd change the CTS as it may be giving a false reading

[Rudidudi]

I may well do it.

The thing is that I also felt wetness under the expansion tank, its obviously still losing coolant :(

The top hose was quite firm. I wouldn't say rock hard, but it wasn't soft.

What do you guys think my next moves are?

CTS, expansion tank and cap, thermostat...?

How reliable are sniff tests on a diesel to confirm whether it is definitely HG?

[Doctle Odd]

I'd replace the tank and check the ends of the hoses and the clamps. It's a simple DIY job

[MiniMental]

If it reached temp faster with that fan off. In ECON, Change thermostat. Shouldn't be putting any water through radiator until it's warmed up. I had an A4 with this issue years ago. Had to slide cardboard in front of radiator to get it to warm up in winter.

If it warms up with fan off then that means Fan is cooling before thermostat should be fully open.

Mini

[Rudidudi]

I found if you wear the clip like a ring on one of your middle fingers, you can use this finger to lign up the clip and then with your other hand, push the clip into place as you remove the "ring". Sounds daft, but it make this job a doddle!

Looks like the sensor works? If the gauge and VCDS temps read as shown on the graph - could it have been that the weather was so cold it didnt let it creep up? I'll keep an eye with VCDS and see it it was weather or intermittent sensor...


I'd replace the tank and check the ends of the hoses and the clamps. It's a simple DIY job

I did see coolant drips on the underside of the expansion tank. I'll definitely change the tank and cap and check the water pump impeller when I change the thermostat.


If it reached temp faster with that fan off. In ECON, Change thermostat. Shouldn't be putting any water through radiator until it's warmed up. I had an A4 with this issue years ago. Had to slide cardboard in front of radiator to get it to warm up in winter.

If it warms up with fan off then that means Fan is cooling before thermostat should be fully open.

Thanks for the continued help guys, appreciated.

Im not sure if it would have heated up with econ off as I havent driven it before today. Perhaps it would do the same with econ off, I'll need to test drive.

Given the graph above, do you think that the bottom hose should have had any heat?

[mrnice]

Think the bottom hose should be well warmed up after that run, As others have said I'd change stat and cts. I'll be watching this thread with interest though as my car takes 15mins to get to 90deg (from vcds log) which is maybe a little long too, it's on econ too as Elec fan and Ac compressor are removed right now.

[ceilidhalfie]

Like Mrnince, my 2002 Allroad takes a while to reach 90 degrees - and sometime sits between 80 and 90 degrees, unless I do a motorway run. This sounds like a Tstat bproblem - sticking open or not fully closing. The strange thing is though, replacing the CTS always brings the temp up to (but mot any quicker!) 90 degrees. When it starts to vary on a drive - may go down to between 70 and 80 degrees, its time to replace the CTS AGAIN! Unfortunately, as,its a bu**er to replace, the Tstat will not be changed until the next cambelt change in another 40k miles.
RUDI - before you change the expansion tank, if you have checked hoses into it and the tank itself for leeks And you are still getting drips underneath the tank with level sitting below min (when cold), I would suggest you first replace the cap - they do fail and I had mine replaced about 4 years ago (however, in my case, the cap failure was causing the coolant to overheat!)

[MiniMental]

On the note of engine heat, a lot of people forget that this time of year, when you've got your heat turned up, that also cools your engine. Don't forget if your sat in traffic or not making it work, engine temperatures will drop simply due to you heating the cabin. They will certainly take longer to heat up if heater is running. Just food for thought.

Mini

[Rudidudi]

Thanks guys

I took the car out this morning and ran some more logs.

The drops are when the car was stopped.

What was interesting is that the gauge on the dash did not go above 90 degrees, whilst the temperature registered by VCDS was up to 106 degrees at one stage. I was driving in 2nd gear with bursts of spirited driving to get the car to increase in temperature.

I will try again on a motorway road and post the details / logs.

The bottom relief pipe of the expansion tank was wet.

The bottom hose near the radiator was still cold.

http://s24.postimg.org/5lwlrnmz9/A6_Temp2.jpg

[ceilidhalfie]

Rudi, from other posts in this forum, it would appear that the temp gauge is not very accurate - in normal conditions, it moves to 90 degrees and stays there - until there is a problem, but I would have thought 106 degrees was getting near if not a problem though from your graph it quickly goes back under 100 degrees.

[Rudidudi]

Hi, at 106 degrees I parked up and the temperature fell. I was enthusiastic but not driving it really hard. I'm not sure what would have happened if i had continued, I suspect it would have continued to rise... I shall try and see.

At what VCDS reported temperature should I stop in order to avoid damage, etc?

[ceilidhalfie]

I would say do not let temp get to red zone of gauge (appreciate gauge needle may not get there but do not let VCSS reading get there!) From memory, red zone starts at 120 degrees ???

[Peter D]

Go and take it to a garage for a sniff test and coolant pressure test. Regards Peter

[niall campbell]

All looks well with the temp, my car takes around 6 to 9 miles to get to 90 degrees.

The car has 2 temperature gauges, one at the thermostat and the other at the radiator.

Replace the expansion tank or at least lift it out of the housing it sits in

The clips holding the pipes on, maybe are slack after years of tension.

Slacken off the clips and move along pipes, and inspect the ends of the pipes for slits. This also happens after years of use.

I would if your on a budget, replace the clips with jubilee clips and tighten them right up.

The expansion tank can also leak at the sensor for it being empty, the sensor tends to freeze then in the winter, making it look like theres no fluid in the expansion tank.

[Peter D]

"The car has 2 temperature gauges, one at the thermostat and the other at the radiator." This is not the case. The car has a dual element temperature sensor as the back of the head and a Thermo switch in the bottom hose to the rad. This control the fan speed. Regards Peter

[mrnice]

The thermo switch one is unlikely to be relevant here tho Peter as the electric aux fan shouldn't be needed to cool the engine except in blistering ambient temps.

[Peter D]

I was not suggesting the thermo switch has anything to do with the problem. I was correcting the incorrect statement by Niall Campbell that would confuse the OP. Regards Peter

[mrnice]

Fair enough, hope op gets back with any findings, interesting issue

[Rudidudi]

I will definitely keep everyone updated.

My next step is to change the thermostat and the expansion tank and cap.

Retest and report back ;)

[Rudidudi]

Bit of an update

I removed the thermostat and tested it alongside a new one i had purchased. Both worked fine. Slightly disappointed as I wanted it to be the cause of the problem...

I ordered a Febi CTS from amazon and the next day received a delivery of a 'new order' cd. I didnt even realise they were still around. Needless to say it was returned and a replacement ordered.

I fitted the CTS, quite easy tbh, i had read that it was a challenge, but I didnt find it so.

the bolts on the thermostat casing were a bit of a faff, and I dropped a bolt when trying to reassemble :mad: an hour and a half later after having removed the alternator I sound the rascal bolt. Reassembly and access was much easier without the alternator in the way.

Next for the expansion cap. I set up a test rig to pressurise the cap and tank. Very interestingly the cap 'blew off' (as in released pressure) at about 20 psi, but it failed to hold pressure. I continued to hear feint hissing from the over flow outlet until about 5 psi, it might have been continuing but the hiss was very feint and I couldnt wait.

I replaced the cap with an new OEM cap and the blow off was at about 22 psi and once it blew off the overflow was silent. No hissing, indicating that it was holding pressure.

I have just put everything back together and hope that it is the cap. I'll take a long drive this evening with VCDS hooked up and post the results.

Im obviously hoping that this was the cause of the coolant loss and the engine running hotter, we shall see.

[niall campbell]

yes I hope it is fixed, your doing it the right way, process of elimination and going for the cheapest options 1st

[Rudidudi]

No joy

Took it out on the A road and temperatures rose 100 on dash and just shy of 130 on vcds

New thing, heater was pumping out cold air when the temps were up. The heater eventually pumped out hot. I also saw that I hadnt connected what looked like a vacuum hose on the water circuit. What is that for?

Eventually, and it took ages, the air and temperature on the dash and vcds dropped to 80 degrees. It also stayed at 80 degrees for ages on tickover. I'm confused!

Expansion tank has lost water, im going to set up a catch tank with a pipe from the expansion tank outlet, so i can see if it is loss or air lock. I did see some wetness in the engine bay, so assuming it is letting water out still :mad:

I felt the water pump impeller when I had the thermostat out and it wasn't free spinning. I couldn't tell if it was plastic. It didn't feel like it, but can't be sure.

Top and bottom hoses were hard...

Starts and runs fine.

The bottom hose is still cold. Not chuffed.

Ideas on a postcard...

What could cause the heater to run cold? How do I check if its an airlock or the water pump?

[niall campbell]

To bleed heater matrix, switch off Air Con , put heater to Max Temp and Max fan speed.

Let it idle for 10 minutes.

Temp on dash should be 90

[Rudidudi]

Was editing my post at the same time.

- New OEM expansion cap fitted, thermostat tested and opens ok

-Took on the A road, temps rose to nearly 130 degrees (130 VCDS, 100 dash gauge)

-Heater was pumping out freezing cold air, then eventually hot

-Bottom rad hose was still cold. if this is cold then i assume the fan wont kick in either...

-After slowing and letting the car idle, the temps on VCDS and dash dropped to and stayed at 80 (not 90)

-Checked impeller when thermostat was out, didnt free spin.

-Apparent coolant loss still (will check with catch tank tomorrow)

-Top and bottom hose were quite hard

help welcomed folks :(

[Peter D]

Remove the scuttle panel and remove the top heater matrix pipe enough to expose the bleed hole in the metal pipe. Be careful as hot water will come out. This will bleed the matrix, this is why you had cold air. Go and have a stiff test done as I have previously suggested. Regards Peter

[Rudidudi]

Remove the scuttle panel and remove the top heater matrix pipe enough to expose the bleed hole in the metal pipe. Be careful as hot water will come out. This will bleed the matrix, this is why you had cold air. Go and have a stiff test done as I have previously suggested. Regards Peter

thanks, i will do the test. I was looking to buy the kit as i do tinker with cars and dont mind having the kit in the garage for the future. The expension tank opening / neck is really wide in diameter, assuming there should be a seal between the hg tester rubber and the expansion tank? If so, how is this test done?

one thing that i dont seem to have confirmed yet though, is there meant to be flow into the expansion tank, or and sign of flow such as bubbles? There is no water movement in the expansion tank.

Would hg failure stop the bottom hose from getting warm, etc. kinda feels like it could be a circulation issue... Shouldnt the bottom hose be at least warm when the cts is showing 130 degrees?

[mrnice]

Can't answer the rest but if my own non-overheating 1.9 is anything to go by, yes, bottom hose should be warm, or at that temp, hot

[Rudidudi]

Can't answer the rest but if my own non-overheating 1.9 is anything to go by, yes, bottom hose should be warm, or at that temp, hot

I'm wondering if the heat and lack of temperature on the bottom hose is the thing that i can investigate...? I didnt feel any free spinning on the water pump, but perhaps it is jammed? I'll remove the thermostat again and get someone to turn the engine over by hand to see if i can feel the impeller turning. Then i need to check the hoses.

I'll get the sniff test done too.

Thanks for all the comments so far guys, all much appreciated... keep any ideas coming... I will get to the bottom of this! :)

[zollaf]

remove the small water pipe from the top of the expansion bottle and you should have a good flow of water from it when the engine runs. if there is water then the pump is working.

[Rudidudi]

remove the small water pipe from the top of the expansion bottle and you should have a good flow of water from it when the engine runs. if there is water then the pump is working.

With the engine running, should there be a flow at the top small pipe into the expansion tank from cold or only when the engine is hot?

[zollaf]

hot or cold, doesn't matter. the little pipe is in the top hose, so no flow through little pipe mean no water pump pumping, simples.

[Rudidudi]

hot or cold, doesn't matter. the little pipe is in the top hose, so no flow through little pipe mean no water pump pumping, simples.

Thanks, so this is not normal (engine started from cold)?
Btw the engine sounds fine in real life, the video has made it sound odd


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3P1ZKgxqRUg

[zollaf]

no, not normal, thats indicative of a failed water pump..

[Doctle Odd]

+1

[zollaf]

funnily enough , even with a totally failed pump water will still circulate simply due to the fact that hear rises. the really old cars didn't have a pump, they just relied on convection. but it wont run properly, will get too hot, localised boiling etc,, heater working a little bit, overprssurising, loss of water...

[Doctle Odd]

You could remove the thermostat and do the finger test but I think that's just delaying the inevitable belt removal (which is much easier that you'd think)

[Rob69]

+2

+1

You say you couldnt turn the impeller when the stat was removed but it might only come loose with a bit heat on it, and it's difficult to really give it a good twist with just your fingertips in the stat housing, reading this thread and looking at the mileage, are you not due a belt and pump change anyway? Chances are the pump wasnt changed last time round and that is still the original pump. I've had few full dealer SH pd engines and the pump was not included in the first belt change.

[Doctle Odd]

I just put in a finger to check if the impeller has broken up, it's not that easy to turn from there as the timing belt tension is holding it

[Rudidudi]

Thanks for all the replies guys, appreciated.


+2

You say you couldnt turn the impeller when the stat was removed but it might only come loose with a bit heat on it, and it's difficult to really give it a good twist with just your fingertips in the stat housing, reading this thread and looking at the mileage, are you not due a belt and pump change anyway? Chances are the pump wasnt changed last time round and that is still the original pump. I've had few full dealer SH pd engines and the pump was not included in the first belt change.

It had a cambelt and water pump change approx 8000 miles ago in October 2014.


funnily enough , even with a totally failed pump water will still circulate simply due to the fact that hear rises. the really old cars didn't have a pump, they just relied on convection. but it wont run properly, will get too hot, localised boiling etc,, heater working a little bit, overprssurising, loss of water...

I'm kinda hoping that this is the case...

Will keep you updated...

[Doctle Odd]

As the OP said the water pump isn't always changed, sometimes they bill you for coolant, if they didn't add it to the bill they may not have changed the pump or they could have used an el cheapo pump

[mrnice]

I've had a water pump fail (leak) after 9k before so they're not infalable. It was a febi one too. Just saying...