2001 A3 3 Door Drivers door wont close!!!!!

[cossie3k]

Having real problems getting my drivers door to close atm!

clicks onto the first catch but to get it to properly close it basically needs rugby tackled!

any suggestions?

its done a lot of miles so assume door has been well used!

The catch looks worn but would think id be better changing catch and mechanism?

HELP NEEDED!

[micheal balbrig]

Yeah it is probably a faulty catch mechanism.

May be worth trying to see if you get the two catches operating with door open by moving latch with screwdriver,if you know what I mean.
This is just in case it is only receiver that needs adjustment.

[cossie3k]

Seems to work with a screwdriver but its stiff. Tried oil, wd40 etc.

Where is the best place to get replacement parts? Also if i replace rhe reciever do i need to take interior trim out?

[JMR1]

Hi Cossie,
The lock pin ( the bit that is on the car body piller ) Should be able to adjust that with either a spanner ( will have a hex head on it ) or with a Torx head on the pin itself. Slacken this off a bit, and keeping it at the same level, move it outwards a bit towards the door until it will allow the mechanism to engage on the second catch. After this, you may find that the door, while fully locking, will be a bit "Loose" against the door frame rubber . Keep adjusting the striker pin until it feels just right. Bend down low so that you can see the lock mechanism just before the door closes, and make sure that the lock itself is meeting the pin at the right height...again, adjust the striker pin to the proper height, and that should solve your door problem. What happens, especiall in a older car, is that the hinges wear, and the door drops ( you can check this by opening the door fully, and trying to lift it up and down, if the hinges are worn, the the door drops, and the door lock hits the pin, ( pushing further in, as I think is what happened in your case ) and this will make it harder to close, because the door is travelling in against the door rubber, and that why a rugby tackle is needed,

[cossie3k]

The rubber bit is missing on the door pin? (pass one is there) and the door has dropped, I tried adjusting it but couldn't get anywhere with it. if I take the window and door card off the door opens and closes fine, soon as the window goes back in it gets sticky but still works, add the door card and its a nightmare.

[micheal balbrig]

Sounds like the cable is being pulled with card on,see if it is incorrectly fitted.

[cossie3k]

Tried cable disconnected made no odds, even with door card off it still doesnt work its just a little easier. When the window is off it has a 50/50close rate.

[micheal balbrig]

If the two catches operate with screwdriver it is unlikely a replacement unit will sort problem.
You say door did drop,will it close by lifting door at same time as closing it.
Audi will probably supply by courier/ if required, they supplied a window regulator from NI to Dublin.
It still seems like door alignment problem,especially since it works fine with door card and window removed,
so the door is not going in far enough to trip second catch. The door or receiver needs adjustment to allow it to do so.

[cossie3k]

Ive tried lifting the door and adjusting the recoever to its limits and still jist does the same :(

[JMR1]

You need to move the striker plate on the door piller outwards. ( you can remove it all together, and try pushing the door in wards, and see if there is any resistance to it ? ) For sure, if removing the trim ( door card) and moving the window glass affects the lock, some where along the line, the cables are getting snagged in them. if you have the trim card off, then open the door and check what is happening with the lock, using the screwdriver to activate the lock.

[cossie3k]

Have adjusted it as far out as it goes and it makes no real difference it still goes on one click. The door is effortless to get on first click. Just can get the second click. I was looking at pass side and notice theres a piece of rubber on the striker plate which is missing from drivers side? Could this be the problem?

[JMR1]

The rubber on the striker pin ( or receiver as they are also known ) are there to "soften" the contact between the lock ( "U" shaped piece ) and the receiver, plus they help stop any rattles on a worn lock. Can you check again, with the door opened wide, that the "U" shaped bit is freely moving from "Open" to "Safety Lock" and "Fully Locked". You should be able to move this even with your fingers when the door is wide open, Try it, and we will see., OK?

[JMR1]

Oh, I almost forgot.....press the door handle, as if opening the door, and the "U" part should move freely between the 3 positions. (1) Open, (2) Safety and (3) Fully Locked. Try it and see..

[cossie3k]

Goes from open to safety effortlessly but then to lock is sticky /stiff but does click. Will try with handle up tho!

[cossie3k]

Works effortlessly. So assuming its not that.. so what does that leave?

[micheal balbrig]

Compare working side

[JMR1]

If it goes from open to safety and then is "Sticky" moving from safety to full lock, the problem is in the lock internals, and best thing to do would be to remove it and when its out and in your hand, you will see some leavers and springs. Try moving the "U" again, and you will see exactly what is wrong. My guess is that the "Axle" that one of the levers moves on or the lever itself is worn. Unless you can free up the sticky lever, best thing would be to replace the lock with a fully functioning one, and make sure that it is well lubricated with grease and moving freely before you install it. Hope that gets you out of trouble. :o

[cossie3k]

Any suggestions on where to get one and also the part for the door pillar? Rather replace it all!