Lister Engine Restoration

[Doctle Odd]

I bought a little Lister engine a couple of weeks ago. It was sitting outside for a long time in a dismantled state as the owner couldn't get it to start. The engine is SR1Z so anti-clcokwise rotation which is why he couldn't get it to start. So far I have cleaned the gunk and water out of the sump and cooked the fuel tank in washing soda. I'm waiting on a small end and head gasket to arrive then I will continue this little thread on restoring it to working condition. It's 1965.
Anyone that knows stuff about these little engines or has restored them please let me know. I have previously done this with a Lister LD1 but I have no idea if I did it the approved way. I tend to avoid the petrol engines because I hate electrics even magnetos make me have a mild panic attack. I also have a Lister Petter AD1 but it just needs cleaning and painted. The SR1 is going to become a backup generator

[Col]

Are they 2 stroke diesels ?

[Doctle Odd]

Are they 2 stroke diesels ?

No mate they're 4 stroke.

[Col]

I used to like the sound of small 2 stroke engines fitted to various bits of construction machinary, pumps, mixers etc.

The put put put put put noise.

[Doctle Odd]

The old Lister CS diesel from the early 30's is my favourite. Years ago you could hear them in the countryside at night turning at 650 rpm generating power for a TV and a few lights. They still make a copy in India known as Listeroids but you can pick up a nice 6-1 for a few hundred in the UK

[Doctle Odd]

Little update, The shells are worn down to bronze so the crank has to come out for checking and maybe grinding. I'll get the barrel honed too. I'll take some photos this evening as she comes apart if anyone's interested. Those Lister engines were over-engineered, the shaft can easily take 3 grindings and 2 re-bores are pretty common . Mine is untouched and at 50 years old it will last many years. These engines will run on anything, used cooking oil, strained used engine oil etc. Of course I could just buy a Chinese diesel engine for about £500.00 but it would be long gone in my lifetime.

[Doctle Odd]

Does no harm to have a 2nd opinion...

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[Doctle Odd]

Using electrolysis to clean rust off the fuel tank, an old brake disc is the sacrificial piece. Don't mind the colour of the wire the negative cable goes to the part being cleaned., this method of rust removal costs nothing (99c for the soda crystals) The bottom of the tank had loads of tin-worm I cleaned it fixed the larger holes with EP200 and the smaller holes with StopLeak, it's great stuff. I haven't got the right Brunswick green paint so I'll paint it McHale green for now.

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[Doctle Odd]

Removing rust from inside the tank needs a special tool consisting of a 6" bolt, a take away coffee lid and an inch of rubber hose for insulation.

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The tank is filled with warm water and a spoon of washing soda. I use an old 6 amp battery charger I bought at an auto jumble some years ago. It says Made in England on the back. Anyone know this brand, Babcock?

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Here's the special tool in action, takes about 48 hours to leave the tank rust free, It will then be filled with coca cola until it's ready for use

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[Doctle Odd]

Next job remove the flywheel. On this engine it's on a tapered keyed shaft and held on by a 2 1/4" nut.

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There's a special tool can be used to pull the flywheel off the shaft. You can use the flywheel shaft extension that nearly all these engines have. Loosen the flywheel nut 4 turns and put on the extension, tighten each nut 1/4 of a turn at a time until the flywheel pops off the taper. The flywheel is very heavy, about the same weight as Zollaf's wallet.

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Carefully remove the flywheel, the cooling fan is cast aluminium and costs a fortune if broken

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Looks like the oil seal is gone too.

[Doctle Odd]

Nest job is to remove the crankshaft, start with the gear end covers

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Then remove the governor linkage

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The crankshaft pinion is shrunk and keyed in place. Easy to fit just heat in boiling water for 10 minutes. Of course I have no gas to heat it for removal so I kick the casing and it sounds "wrong". A quick look and there's cracks on the inside and the outside seems to have been repaired with what looks like pollyfilla. Grrr

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To be continued....

[Doctle Odd]

Casing damage

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After liquid metal, this won't be noticeable after painting.

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[Doctle Odd]

Shaft eventually removed and will be sent for checking and grinding if necessary on monday

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Winston has made himself head of tool and small part security

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Later some R&R...

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[kite]

Keep up the good work doc.

[JMR1]

Strained used engine oil....... very interesting !!!! :D

[Doctle Odd]

Shaft has been left in for grinding, the guy that does the grinding and polishing is on holidays so I have a fortnight to check for cracks and clean the engine. Oil strainer has been removed and put in paraffin for cleaning.

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[IJD]

Good little project. I've got a Petter AB1 myself.