2.5 tdi 2005 a4 injector pump issue?

[tregz544]

hi all
not sure if mine is a b6 or b7 to be honest hope this is the right place to post.
ive recently brought this car as a non starter.


the pump was sent to ecutesting by the previous owner who worked their magic on the ecu and apparently repaired the fault they found.


however there still seems to be an issue as the car will still not start.


after researching on the internet I managed to find the settings in vcds to show the voltage at the pump but the first field was 0 and the second field was 11.5v (battery is now on charge)


I assume this means the pump has no power??


thing is when I removed the electrical connector I found that 2 of the pins had a live feed???


I believe the pump still needs to be coded to the immobilizer but im guessing this will not happen with no power......


im confused? is it possible that the pump is still faulty?


any help appreciated on this head scratcher!!

[tregz544]

After looking closely in vcds it is apparent that in the engine module, the vin and immo Id is displayed as xxxxxxxx . Also there is no login confirmation from the ecu either. Is it likely that the ecu is the problem here?


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[kite]

You need to speak to adamss24 ( Chris) he know these engines.
Look on here for his posts, you should find his phone number on there.

[tregz544]

Can't pm at the moment, would someone be able to pm him for me?


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[kite]

Can't pm at the moment, would someone be able to pm him for me?


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I've sent you a PM..

[tregz544]

Thanks for that...kite.
Update......the ecu was sent away to be tested and apparently it's not repairable.
I'm edging towards swapping it for a used ecu as the new one is over £400.
I'm quite good with computers so I'm guessing it shouldn't be too bad.
I have the skc. I just need a process for swapping everything over? Is vag commander suitable?


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[kite]

I have no idea what you need to change over the ECU. Where did you send it for testing ?
Diesel Bob seems to have a good rep with VP44's.

[abyrne153]

The ecu for the vp44 is calibrated using specialised equipment and matched to each pump. Once an immobiliser is matched to an edc you need both the pin code and key from the donor car to recode it to another. This is usually not practical. The only real option is to send the pump off to be reconditioned which will include fitting a brand new edc that will come open for a new pin code that can be extracted from your cars engine ecu using a super vag k+can tool and matched to your car following the instructions on the Ross tech website and a full version of vagcom. The pumps are so precise that often a repaired original edc will cause running issues, smoky starts, rough running etc. There is no real option but to bite the bullet and get your pump reconditioned by a specialist.

[tregz544]

Finally managed to get this car started. The problem was that someone had attempted a bodged repair before I brought the car and had the wrong pump on the car?? Anyway I managed to sort the correct pump and it's all fitted and starts.
I have attempted to set the pump timing with vcds and have it set very close to the blue line in the middle but it's still running like a tractor...and loads of white smoke from the exhaust...
The tensioner on the belt is a little tight so I'm going to readjust asap....would that cause such bad smoking and running?


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[abyrne153]

Check and see if any fault codes are being thrown up. Did you check the static timing with the proper locking tools? If all is ok then check your egr valve which could be stuck open. These engines run better with the pump timing a bit advanced so try and get it towards the upper line. Go as advanced as possible so long as the pump isn;t generating fault codes.

[tregz544]

Ok will do ta. I'm busy over the weekend I'll get on to this on Monday. When I checked the static timing I had the crankshaft locked and the pin in the pump. I've since adjusted from there using the Tdi timing checker while running. Is that the right procedure or have I missed something?
I'll update on Monday


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[abyrne153]

You've half checked it. You have checked the pump static timing but not the cams. It would be advisable to check this also as it is critical to the running of the v6. I would make sure it is correct especially if you have discovered poor workmanship during your efforts to fix the pump. Make sure the locking plates locate correctly in the cam slots as well just to be sure. The pump timing is adjusted by slackening the 3 hex bolts and moving the outer pulley on the cam clockwise to advance and anti to retard. Tiny movements at a time. Engine must be hot and check timing in basic mode on vagcom.

[tregz544]

This is why these forums are great. Checked cams and neither locking plate will fit in the slots. I'm guessing now the procedure would be the same now as if I was changing the belt. Just wondering if it's a front off job or can be done as Is. Also I don't have a retaining pin for the tensioner,.. Can something similar be used or does it need to be one specific for the job?
You guys rock by the way. [emoji106]


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[abyrne153]

You will definitely need the front in the service position at least but much easier with the front out altogether. Any similar sized pin should do the job for the tensioner.

[tregz544]

Have opted to remove the front completely for ease of access. The top rad hose is stuck solid, and I'm not sure how to remove the clips for the hydraulic cooler lines that connect the rubber to the metal lines?


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[tregz544]

Ok so this happened today http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/15/6abdb1ff044ecdd51991c118fb5b250a.jpg


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[ametlib]

Just fell over this thread.
I wonder if the cams can be enough off to make it run like a tractor without the valves hitting the pistons first ? My guess is no. Maybe a better start would have been to check the timing in Basic settings 4, retarded phase. That goes for anyone that suspect
the pump timing is out on a 2,5 tdi. The graph is not reliable- read the timing in basic settings

[tregz544]

This is only my 2 pence worth as I'm in no way experienced but It kinda makes sense that the pump timing and cam timing is so crucial on these engines if you think about it. 2 heads and one injection pump,..if one of the cams is out by a nats hair it's understandable that it can make a huge difference. In my case it looked as though both cams were slightly out to each other one slightly advanced and the other retarded. I don't have much time so it will be a few days before I see if all the work has been worth it, but I'll keep you informed. Trying to find a suitable way to pretension the timing belt at the minute as my torque wrench is only one way. I can't do reverse torque??


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[ametlib]

Hi, the pretention is only ment to stretch a new belt into place and is not critical when you reuse the old belt. Also- you should not keep the pretention when you torque the cam sprocket nuts, you give it a snug ( 15 nm I think) then wait for a few seconds when
the main tentioner finds it's place, then torque the nuts ( use counterhold ! )
Its normal that one cam will be slightly advanced and the other slightly retarded as the belt ages and stretch a bit, sorry to say but I dont give it much of a chance that this will fix your car....
Post back when you,ve put the stuff together if the fault is still present

[tregz544]

Didn't have much time today but decided to do a little bit and proceeded to put the brake vacuum pump back on the end of the camshaft. And... Had a bit of a blonde moment. Really should not try to do these jobs when pushed for time!! When I removed the pump I started undoing the wrong screws. I actually started undoing the two halves of the pump. Anyway, as I like to make sure everything is properly torqued I decided to remove the bolts apply some thread lock and retorque them. However instead of doing one at a time, something possessed me to undo all 4 and some bits rattled down the back of the engine. I'm not sure what bits I have and what I'm missing. This is what I've found, but I believe there's likely to be another "blade" that I can't find. As I didn't actually see these bits I just need to know if this is what I'm looking for? My spanners will be for sale on eBay soon 😄

[tregz544]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/03/0ad9765b96615d88f4fd053314db2477.jpg

[ametlib]

:biglaugh: I see you are digging deep into the problem ! Actually the first time I've seen what lives inside these pumps, but when looking at it, woudnt it look better with " end pieces " on both sides of the " blade" ( sorry, my English is stretced a bit beyond it's limits ;) )

[tregz544]

Yes I managed to find another end piece which was the bit that was missing. The little piece was hiding behind some insulation!! in the engine bay. Anyways hopefully it should work now!! Lol

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[tregz544]

Am going for start a new topic as the car has started but there is probably more problems yet ...

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