01 1.8T few issues

[fivepointnine]

The biggest issue I have on a recent bought A3 1.8T is the engine idles poorly (sputters and hunts for idle, has not died on me though) when warm, idles perfectly and very smooth in high idle when cold. Seems to boost good, engine is very quiet, NO EML. I found the Y hose off the valve cover pretty much disintegrated (a 2" at least exposed hole) So I am hoping this fixes the idle problem.

Second problem is the temp gauge never moved off of 60 (well one time I started the car it showed just below 90 but dropped down right away) Im going to replace the temp sensor tomorrow, but Im afraid this one might be a stuck open thermostat.

Third problem which I am not sure of is that the rear washer does not work, you can hear it turning on when you move the stalk but no fluid comes out, front washers work perfect.

Fourth issue is the front speakers on the bose system are completely wasted, has anyone found a direct fit replacement?

Any help or suggestions on the above issues would be appreciated!

[fivepointnine]

Ordered the vacuum hose from the Audi dealer today, it will be in Wednesday morning as well as the coolant temp sensor. I tested tonight by running the car with the hose as is and it started to stumble on idle very badly after about 30 seconds of idling, then I took a plastic bag and tore it up in strips and wrapped around the hole as best as I could, then restarted, the car actually held and idle, still not totally smooth, but enough that it would be derivable. So I hope that hose fixes my idle issues, when I go to get the cambelt done I will probably have them smoke check the vacuum system to make sure there are no other leaks.

Still looking for more info or answers though!

[Crasher]

You may find the plastic hose from the Y hose and the T piece below that with the valve, the small hose out (the one with the arrow) and the plastic elbow pipe ALL need replacing as usually the whole lot drops to bits and will be part or all of your idle, there is only one way to find out. This is for an AUM code engine.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/AUMbreathers.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/AUMbreathers.jpg.html)

The temp problem will be the thermostat, no big deal.


The whole breather system has to be absolutely air tight (you can get away with a small air leak from the cam chain adjuster) and they only way to check this is with a pressure test or smoke system. Ignore the arrow pointing to the throttle body.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/Golf4AGUthrottlebody.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/Golf4AGUthrottlebody.jpg.html)

[fivepointnine]

You may find the plastic hose from the Y hose and the T piece below that with the valve, the small hose out (the one with the arrow) and the plastic elbow pipe ALL need replacing as usually the whole lot drops to bits and will be part or all of your idle, there is only one way to find out. This is for an AUM code engine.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/AUMbreathers.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/AUMbreathers.jpg.html)

The temp problem will be the thermostat, no big deal.


The whole breather system has to be absolutely air tight (you can get away with a small air leak from the cam chain adjuster) and they only way to check this is with a pressure test or smoke system. Ignore the arrow pointing to the throttle body.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/Golf4AGUthrottlebody.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/Golf4AGUthrottlebody.jpg.html)


You think I am on the right path looking at the breather system since I don't have a MIL? I did confirm it is a AUM engine code. I tried idling it again tonight without the plastic wrapped around the hose and it would barely run, of course that hose is pretty much completely torn in two now from me messing with it, so the engine is seeing a TON of un-metered air entering.

Also do you need to remove the manifold to get to that t-fitting and associated hoses?

And a final question, is there a trick to the Audi hose clamps?

[Crasher]

You need to remove the front solenoid tray and tilt it over out of the way after disconnecting the secondary air injection hose from the bolt in the centre of the tray. Then you can just get you hands down to the top of the oil filter houisng breather outlet and remove the old bits. You will probably find that the bottom of the 90 degree plastic pipe will snap off leaving a brass coloured metal ring and plastic plus the O ring in there which you will have to dig out without dropping all the bits into the breather. Just because you have no MIL does not mean you do not have any relevant fault codes. A friend of mine borrowed my pressure tester a few years ago to sort out his poor idling on an AUM engined Octavia L&K auto (stalling auto's are a pain) and he nearly lost the plot after a few days. He ended up replacing all the vacuum pipe system, breather system, injector and seat seals and the VVT unit and gasket.

This can get expensive, all the parts for the breather system alone come to over £170 and all the front hoses around £190 plus the throttle body will need cleaning and re-matching to the ECU. Even then you could have other faults, this is why a fault code read and leak test is so important.

[fivepointnine]

Yeah Im replacing the top destroyed hose and the thermostat in the next 2 days to get the car driveable again,then next week I am going to just order an entire silicone hose kit and intake manifold gasket (and those two valves), replace it all and be done with it. Then I have to start looking at doing the cambelt, tensioner and water pump again as its due from age, not mileage. Then finally replace the front control arms/ball joints, then the car should be 100% again. I hate it when people lapse on maintenance. (but I got the car for a good price and it drove very well until that hose split too much)

[Crasher]

I don't know of a silicon hose kit that will do all of this, the two rigid pipes on the breather will have to be bought genuine and the hoses on the outside won't be included. I had a bit of a struggle with these on a BAM 2 litre I did last year, the main intake hose did not want to fit.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/BAM%202L%20engine%20hanging_zpsnjig7gj3.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/BAM%202L%20engine%20hanging_zpsnjig7gj3.jpg.html)

[fivepointnine]

I was going to get these hoses, along with those rigid elbows/tees and the associated valves Breather Hoses for Audi, VW, SEAT, and Skoda 1.8T 150/180 HP Engines | Forge Motor Sport I High Quality Motor Sport Parts (http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/Breather_Hoses_for_Audi_VW_SEAT_and_Skoda_18T_1501 80_HP_Engines--product--149.html)

Think I had a bit of a split here! Im pretty sure that was allowing enough unmetered air into the engine to muck everything up! http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/fivepointnine/IMG_11632_zps85bdef4f.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/fivepointnine/media/IMG_11632_zps85bdef4f.jpg.html)

[Crasher]

That kit is nowhere near enough what you will need, not even 25% of it if even that! You can't deal with all the variations so simply, it ain't a Poxhall! Yes that split Y hose would cause havoc with a closed circuit breather system engine but the AUM/AUQ engine series is super sensitive to crankcase ventilation system air leaks, it MUST draw only the air allowed in by the system intake, anything more is instantly detected by the Air Mass Meter and Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor signal inputs into the ECU.

[fivepointnine]

So do you think I have an issue besides that destroyed breather hose or should I start with that? The part is supposed to be in tomorrow morning early at the Audi parts department. I tried to feel around as best I could all the hoses/connections under/around the manifold and the air intake tract and could not feel any obvious splits or deteriorated hoses (not saying there aren't any!) What are the obvious suspects besides the t fitting below the manifold? Also is the breather and crank vent systems interconnected or separate (or an interchangeable term)? Im coming from vehicles with a much simpler breather /crank breather system (T7 B204R Saab being the next most complicated I have dealt with, my BMW is absolutely simple in comparison to both!)

[Crasher]

If that hose is one of two faults on the engine you must replace it first to be able to find the next as that air leak will cause serious running issues, basically it needs fixing no matter what.
All the hoses on the engine and the VVT adjuster seal are all suspects on the AUM engine, they leak like sieves! The check valve in the T piece is VERY prone to failing and causing running issues.

The crank case breather system is as in the picture, that is all of it BUT not the only pipe that leaks, the others are vacuum pipes for the servo and engine systems control such as the wastegate and secondary air injection system inlet valve.

The AUM is an EUIV emissions engine and so is extremely fussy, the lambda sensors in the exhaust are used together with crank position change speed data to ensure the engine is running absolutely perfectly.

One thing that does bug me, with just that breather hose being split it will log a code such as “17544 (P1136) Bank 1, mixture adaption (add.) System too lean” which is supposed to illuminate the MIL, this is why I want you to get it fault code read. It is by no means unknown for the MIL to err, malfunction, when the car is being sold...... if you know what I mean? Does it come on with the ignition before the engine is started?

[fivepointnine]

so I finally got a MIL light today after getting petrol, it was lighting up before I started. I replaced the temp sensor and the split hose. The car idles good enough to drive now, but you can still feel a bit of a stumble and the engine catches itself every once in a while. Im going to have them look at the codes tomorrow when I have them do the thermostat. (car showed warmer today after sitting at the gas station, then cooled back down when I started moving again)

[fivepointnine]

think the breather valve coming off the "T" could be part of my issue? I think I have another split hose somewhere behind that "tray" as when I shine a torch under the intake manifold I can see oil film on a couple of the breather hoses under there. See what codes and recommendations the shop comes up with tomorrow.

[Crasher]

It is almost a certainty that the hose with the arrow in my initial diagram will be split, part number 06A 103 221 BK and £20.05. Originally this comes in a jacket with another hose and you have to cut the jacket open.

[fivepointnine]

well setback number 1, oil cooler is shot, oil in the coolant (I sorta noticed it, but did not think a lot about it) I am pretty certain its not the head gasket as I am not blowing coolant out the tailpipe and the car does not overheat at all (It barely warms up, hence the thermostat!) so that will be in on Monday and completed. Then I can finally get to the vacuum hose that you talked about. This car is becoming a bit of a shed, luckily I got it really cheap!

Also do I need to pull the intake manifold to replace that hose, or can i just drop that front plate down and reach it enough?

[Crasher]

You can reach it at the expense of some skin....

[fivepointnine]

So I picked the car up today, oil cooler and thermostat fixed the coolant mixing with oil and it now runs at the correct temp. ALso had the oil changed. They did not read the codes or anything but the car is now idling good and running good, so I don't know if there was a breather hose un-attached by the oil cooler or what. Drove it about 20 miles home along with the test driving they did at the repair shop and no MIL as of now. Ill keep an eye on it, but I am still planning on replacing the suspect breather hoses. Now to replace the rearview mirror as its discoloured and figure out the stereo issues, then on to replacing the front lower control arms (cracked bushes were an advisory on the last MOT)

[fivepointnine]

You may find the plastic hose from the Y hose and the T piece below that with the valve, the small hose out (the one with the arrow) and the plastic elbow pipe ALL need replacing as usually the whole lot drops to bits and will be part or all of your idle, there is only one way to find out. This is for an AUM code engine.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/AUMbreathers.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/AUMbreathers.jpg.html)

The temp problem will be the thermostat, no big deal.


The whole breather system has to be absolutely air tight (you can get away with a small air leak from the cam chain adjuster) and they only way to check this is with a pressure test or smoke system. Ignore the arrow pointing to the throttle body.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/Golf4AGUthrottlebody.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/Golf4AGUthrottlebody.jpg.html)

On my car the hose with the arrow does not look like that (and the silicone replacement hose does not match up) The hose that goes from the PCV is much shorter and plugs into the rear of the suction jet, any idea what the alternate part number is? Everywhere I look references the same diagram and hose.

[Crasher]

On all Golf, A3, Octavia, Leon etc with the AUM engine 2001>2011, the hose from the T piece valve to the inlet manifold is now 06A 103 221 BK. There is no alternative.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/06A201032022120BK20breather20hose_zpsg5oexp4m.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/06A201032022120BK20breather20hose_zpsg5oexp4m.jpg. html)

[fivepointnine]

the included picture here is what my breather system is like. I need the hose that goes from the PCV to the suction jet pump. I have that other hose and just dont see how it could possibly fit.

[Crasher]

The short hose from the valve is 06A 133 783 H @ £7.64. ETKA shows the 2002 hose in the breather section 103-085 for a 2001 model but much later on in section 133-029 it shows the 2001 hose 06A 133 783 H along with an annotation next to the VIN which indicates an inexact change point, in other words they do not know when it chnaged and the diagram in illustration 103-085 is wrong for a 2001 model!

[fivepointnine]

The short hose from the valve is 06A 133 783 H @ £7.64. ETKA shows the 2002 hose in the breather section 103-085 for a 2001 model but much later on in section 133-029 it shows the 2001 hose 06A 133 783 H along with an annotation next to the VIN which indicates an inexact change point, in other words they do not know when it chnaged and the diagram in illustration 103-085 is wrong for a 2001 model!

Thanks for the part number, that suction jet setup is shared with a bunch of other engine codes, I was able to order some silicone replacements, maybe this next weekend I can finally get all those hoses replaced!

[Crasher]

On the BAM I built (picture in post #7) the owner supplied me some orange silicon hoses, they are impossible to keep clean! I have ordered some for a Mk2 16v I am building, in black!

[fivepointnine]

oh joy haha, I have blue silicone to replace the "T" and the piece that goes up to the upper "Y" hose, and just ordered blue silicone to do the suction jet. I did the N249 bypass yesterday and the silicone hose I used was dirty just from installation! Also have a 710N diverter valve on the way, as the valve I have now (original 710) whistles instead of whooses.

[fivepointnine]

Well I think I finally have the engine running right! I updated the DV to the 710N, replaced all the PCV hoses, the hose from the "T" to the suction jet, and the hose from the suction jet to the manifold. The elbow coming off the block broke as I was trying to remove it from the "T" and the breather pipe going up to the upper "Y" pipe broke as soon as I touched it (I think it was broke to begin with) The "T" piece going to the PCV was pretty much clogged with nasty oily sludge. Next project will be dropping the sump to clean the oil pickup, figuring out the issue with my radio and doing a cambelt/waterpump change (time not mileage)

Thanks for all the help Crasher!

[fivepointnine]

27390
And here is a pic of all my hard work cleaning it up the past few weekends (including an entire day sanding/polishing the headlamps) and adding the 18" Omanyt wheels.

[Crasher]

Actually the 710 N has now changed to 710 P.

[fivepointnine]

Actually the 710 N has now changed to 710 P.

aaahhhhhhhhh haha, well I know what I will need to get in the future now!

[Crasher]

Yes, me too............. APR R1 Diverter Valve (http://www.goapr.co.uk/products/r1.html) I fitted mine six years ago (bought it from the States when APR UK was in turmoil) and it is perfect, there is NOTHING better.

[Glyn65]

fix the splitt y hose check all vac hoses from dv and all around no leaks chech dv take off push in piston from underneath place thumb over top and it should not realese ie keep pressure if this fails replace plus check vsc lines while your there some become brittle over time change its cheapto do five pound for one meter with clips be carfull if its one time audi clips take your time i just used a pair of plyers check brake servo for leaks these pipes become briitle you will hear it sucking therm ineeds changing its not as bad as it sounds mine was the same if thermo is not working eng temp never resches max let me no cheers