big_chubbles
08-01-2015, 04:31 PM
Hello lovely VAG fans,
Currently running a 2010, '10 A6 C6 Avant 2.0TDi Le Mans and need advice/confirmation on doing my brake pads.
The warning light has come on on the dash saying the pads are near death and a quick visual inspection confirms this. My old pads are Pagid with PR codes 1KD, 1LG according to the chassis sticker. (The uprated brakes from the base models) Now that I have the parts and a couple other tools to hand, I plan to have a go myself. Have done/seen done a few cars before but there are one or two questions that have cropped up.
Firstly to the front end, where I understand my like-for-like Pagid pads should have a directional arrow somewhere indicating the forward rotation of the disc through the calliper to prevent the knocking which I believe occurs if they are on the wrong side. I cant see any arrows anywhere. Anyone have any idea how I tell which side is which before I start taking things apart? Also, I take it the wear warning light will just go out again when the new pads don't complete the circuit to that sensor once installed?
Secondly the rear end, where the pads seem pretty easy. I would just like to see if anyone can confirm a couple details for me. Do I need a VAG COM cable to release the EPB so I can work on them? Or can I just chock the car and release the brake using the button on the centre console as if I were pulling away? Can anyone confirm whether the piston on the rear is threaded and needs to be turned back, instead of pushed back like the front one and every other one I've ever seen. I've heard this somewhere else on here with reference to an A4 which I believe uses the same set-up.
Third, can anyone advise on torque settings for the various bolts, i.e. Wheel Bolts, the hex nut pins that hold the calliper to the carrier, the carrier bolts (for future reference when the discs eventually need doing) and the retaining bolt for the rotors (again for the future). I'm really struggling to find data like that and am quite OCD about it since its a safety issue. Don't want a bolt shearing as I don't know my own strength sometimes so have bought a torque wrench for safety. Best I can find is 95-110 Nm for the wheel bolts, 90Nm for the hex pins, 190Nm for the carrier bolts, 5Nm for the rotor retaining screw but I don't know if this data is accurate even in the slightest.
Any advice from some kind sole would be most welcome and apologies if any vital data is missing. I'm good with cars and computers generally but this forum thing is new to me so here's hoping I can repay the favour somehow in future on here.:Blush:
Andy
Currently running a 2010, '10 A6 C6 Avant 2.0TDi Le Mans and need advice/confirmation on doing my brake pads.
The warning light has come on on the dash saying the pads are near death and a quick visual inspection confirms this. My old pads are Pagid with PR codes 1KD, 1LG according to the chassis sticker. (The uprated brakes from the base models) Now that I have the parts and a couple other tools to hand, I plan to have a go myself. Have done/seen done a few cars before but there are one or two questions that have cropped up.
Firstly to the front end, where I understand my like-for-like Pagid pads should have a directional arrow somewhere indicating the forward rotation of the disc through the calliper to prevent the knocking which I believe occurs if they are on the wrong side. I cant see any arrows anywhere. Anyone have any idea how I tell which side is which before I start taking things apart? Also, I take it the wear warning light will just go out again when the new pads don't complete the circuit to that sensor once installed?
Secondly the rear end, where the pads seem pretty easy. I would just like to see if anyone can confirm a couple details for me. Do I need a VAG COM cable to release the EPB so I can work on them? Or can I just chock the car and release the brake using the button on the centre console as if I were pulling away? Can anyone confirm whether the piston on the rear is threaded and needs to be turned back, instead of pushed back like the front one and every other one I've ever seen. I've heard this somewhere else on here with reference to an A4 which I believe uses the same set-up.
Third, can anyone advise on torque settings for the various bolts, i.e. Wheel Bolts, the hex nut pins that hold the calliper to the carrier, the carrier bolts (for future reference when the discs eventually need doing) and the retaining bolt for the rotors (again for the future). I'm really struggling to find data like that and am quite OCD about it since its a safety issue. Don't want a bolt shearing as I don't know my own strength sometimes so have bought a torque wrench for safety. Best I can find is 95-110 Nm for the wheel bolts, 90Nm for the hex pins, 190Nm for the carrier bolts, 5Nm for the rotor retaining screw but I don't know if this data is accurate even in the slightest.
Any advice from some kind sole would be most welcome and apologies if any vital data is missing. I'm good with cars and computers generally but this forum thing is new to me so here's hoping I can repay the favour somehow in future on here.:Blush:
Andy